A/C blows warm air

If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged

This guide can help us fix it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.

Ac not working just blows heat, at temp set to hot or cold. vents blow hot air.

I can hear the compressor cycling, it cycles to much every minute or so it clicks. It was replaced by the dealer.

I tested Eatc through temp display, cant find code definition for 02.

How do I check for a vacuum leak to make sure this is not the trouble?


i have a new eatc module, I am afraid of the work invovled replacing unit. Removing dash bolts dropping down steering wheel, Lifting back dash to snap in new module. Sounds easy

I just want to make sure that the Eatc is the problem before tearing apart the dashboard.

TRacy

To check for a vacuum leak, it's usually easier to start at the actuator itself if you can get to it. If you can, unplug the vac. line from it. With the vehicle running, move the switch back and forth from hot to cold and see if there's any vacuum at the line you just unplugged. Keep in mind that it will be a very small amount of vacuum so it's not going to suck your finger to it real hard like a brake booster line. If there is vacuum there, then the actuator is most likely bad. The diaphram inside them can go bad and not move the arm when vac. is applied. If there's NOT any vac. move to the control head in the dash. You can remove it without tearing a lot of the dash apart. Unplug the vacuum connector at the back of it. Again, with the engine running, see if there is ANY vacuum on one of the lines. If not, go under the hood. Look for a black vacuum line going through the firewall into the passenger compartment. It will come from the engine or maybe even the line going to the brake booster. There will be a small black "check valve" inline. Check that line where it originates and see if there's vacuum there.

Will the vac or Eatc repair - fix the AC so it will work?
properly, the heat rolls out of those vents with no sign of AC output.

with a broken EATC: Can you have the AC and Heat on at the same time in the car, in a 94 lincoln, so if Vac or EATC is replaced/repaired. the AC should work.

The ac was repaired at the dealer one year ago, they did it twice for me. A Leak pressure test, new ac unit etc. and it was very cold when they got done with it. Now it is very hot....

Tracy

You can have the AC on and, at the same time, have the temp. set to HOT. So, YES, you can have them both on at the same time. In your first post, you mentioned that the AC was cycling too much. If it's cycling pretty fast, that usually means that the system is low on freon. The low pressure switch is turning it off when it gets to a low pressure condition. OR... The HIGH side could be 'pegging' out and the same thing could happen. If the orfice is stopped up, when the compressor engages, the high side will increase pressure quickly and the HIGH pressure switch will cut it off. You'll need to connect a set of AC guages to varify.
I just read up on this system. The temp. is controlled by an electric motor. There are 3 vacuum actuators but NONE of them control the temperature. They control the floor/panel, fresh air/recirc, and panel/defrost. The blend door(temp.) is controlled by an electric actuator.
The code 02 you mentioned is for EATC connector and blend door actuator. I think we're on to something here. It's telling you that there is a problem with the actuator and that's why you can only get heat out of the vents. Go directly to the actuator. I'm pretty confident that you'll solve your problem by replacing it. First make sure it's plugged in.
You can test it if you like. Find the wires going to the actuator. (purple and Brown/light green) Apply battery voltage to one wire at a time. The actuator should move in one direction. Change wires and the actuator should move in the opposite direction. If it doesn't, replace it. If it does, repost and let me know and I'll walk you through further diagnosing.

tO test eatc WHERE ARE THE WIRES UNDER THE HOOD HARNESS, OR JUST UNDER THE DASH ?

cAN i APPLY POWER INTO THE HARNESS WIRES IN PARALELL?

Find the wires going to the actuator. (purple and Brown/light green) Apply battery voltage to one wire at a time.

The actuator should move in one direction. Change wires and the actuator should move in the opposite direction

Air Conditioning problem
1994 Lincoln Town Car V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic
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Has auto temp control

Turn A/C on, open the hood, is the compressor cluych engaged? If not you may be low on R-134a. If the A/C compressor is working, Run the self diagnostic test on it by turning the key to on, then press off and floor at the same time, then within 2 secs, press auto, If there is a problem a trouble code will appear on the display...To exit self test, press the BLUE, cooler button this also retains error codes, To erase code and exit, press defrost, choose one of these before you power down the system... Test with engine at 120 degrees or more, and cabine between 40-90 degrees.Post any codes recorded here and I let you know what's defective...

They will be under the dash. Maybe behind the glove box, or on the bottom of the evap case on the passenger side. It may be easier to pull the control head out and find the wires there. Don't disconnect anything. Just find the wire, pierce the insulation and apply voltage and see if the actuator moves. I use a "POWER PROBE" but if you don't have one, you'll have to make a jumper connected to battery voltage. Be careful not to arc the wire to ground. In fact, if you have to build a jumper, it would be best to include an 'inline' fuse in it just in case you touch it to ground. We don't want a melt down...

On my 1992 Lincoln Town Car (Limited), my A/C just stopped working. My question is, is there a A/C fuse that could have gone bad? I have converted it over to the new freon system, still does not work. It was suggested that I try the dye to see if there are any leaks, I did and no leaks. I am lost with any other ideas, HELP PLEASE....

Thank you so much, Dana

Did you convert, before you had problems....And it worked fine?

Do your A/C gauges show you are at or near correct pressure?

Does the inner center portion of your compressor turn, when A/C is turned on?

Have you looked in owners manual or in the Fuse Box tops for A/C related fuses?

The WHOLE PICTURE, sometimes helps, on this end.

The Medic

I have trouble getting into air conditioning mode. It wants to stay in heater mode no mater what the temperature is. This is the situation:
!. The vertical lever (Hi, Lo, Auto) works fine.
2. The top Horizontal lever (Thermostat- Temperature gauge) works fine.
3. The bottom horizontal lever ( Air, Heat, Vent, etc.)does NOT work fine. It wants to stay in heat mode. You can "play" with the lever and sometimes get the air conditioner on. If you leave the lever alone, it will stay in air conditioning mode, but if you turn it off or move it to vent or heat it takes a lot of messing with to get it back into air conditioning mode. When you are playing with the lever, and even if you don't touch it, you can hear a noise like a "flapper door" is trying to stay open or closed. I'm guessing something like a pencil has gotten into the system and is messing up the lever controls. The thing is I don't even know where to start to locate and remove the obstruction if that is the problem.

What are your suggestions on the situation?

Thanks,
Butch

Hi Suspect fault in vacuum select valve see diagram

if it does not direct vacuum to correct servo then mode selection is not possible. Do you hear like a hissing sound sometimes from control unit? Need to remove and inspect unit can be replaced no need to replace entire controler. Let me know Thanks for donate

Is there anyway to clear up the diagram of the heating and air unit? I can't even read the captions.
Thank you,
Butch

I have 91 Town Car 4.6L V8 with 146,500 mileage. My blower is working fine but not blowing any cold air out. I believe I need freon but I dont know where I need to hook up the freon can.

Unfortunatly in 92 USA went to R-134a and banned the use of R12! your 91 unless already converted is R12! Take it to a knowledgable A/C shop....I've seen a guy blow 3 fingers off his hand hooking up an R12 can the wrong way!

My a/c blows cold air when I first crank it up, but then right afterwards it blows nothing but heat. It has freon the compressor turns and stop turns and stop, and the a/c thing is cold and moist. When I switch the temperature level to high it still blows heat, Even when I put it on 65 it does the same thing

Your probably low on refrigerant. The compressor can kick on and off if low on refrigerant. R12 refrigerant may be hard to come by and expensive.

If I don't use R-12 will it still blow heat all the time and the condenser is real cold and moist .I had someone to check it the freon was good but it was R-14

Usually if the compressor is kicking on and off, the refrigerant is low. If that isn't the case, might be issue with ac pressure switch? Any applicable trouble codes? Also, check directional doors under the dash.

It all started when I was honking the horn and it stuck, so I disconnected the battery for awhile and reconnected but the car wouldn't start. Replaced the battery and these things stopped working: radio antenna wouldn't go up and down and when I turned on the stereo the antenna motor would strain and you could hear it - so kept radio off, trunk lid electric latch wouldn't take trunk lid all the way down, no cruise control, and the worst out of all this my a/c which always worked great wouldn't work when I needed it. When it is below 70 degrees out it blows cold air (just like it always did). But, if it gets any warmer out it just blows hot air. Is this some kind of a "reset" problem, a fuse problem...I have had it checked by several mechanics but they couldn't explain this mystery. I have been unemployed now for 2 years and cannot afford to get any other assistance with this problem. Please help.

only thing that comes to mind is to check the grounds.

i have a 1989 Lincoln town car Cartier and the a/c blows cold and hard at idle but when i accelerate it blows out less and hotter i checked freon its good and i just cleaned the evaporator core i checked all the vacuum lines and soup can all good

Is your vehicle equipped with automatic or manual HVAV system?

Symptom indicates a possble fault with the air blend doors and it could be related to vacuum losses during acceleration.

The defrost doesn't work either and it's freezing here where Ii live. So when I turn on the heater or defrost in my car it blows warm air for about a second and then switches over to cold. The air doesn't seem to be very strong. I've changed the Thermostat so i know it isn't that. I had some issues with the heater core last year and if i'm not mistaken that was replaced... It is very cold where i live this time of year and would like to resolve this as soon as possible

Hi:
Check this for me and let me know the results.

Start the engine, turn the heater on. Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temp. Feel both heater core hoses. Are both hot?

Let me know.

So the hoses do get hot. what does that mean? someone suggested that i flush my heater core. how do i do that? are there kits available?

THAT MEANS WATER IS CIRCULATING THRU THE HEATER CORE---THE HEAT IS THERE, JUST NOT GETTING TO YOU.....CORE, IS MOST LIKELY FINE!

THE PROBLEM MUST LIE WITHIN THE HEATER BOX UNDER THE DASH

I KNOW LITTLE ABOUT YOU RIG...IMMA REAL JEEP CJ KIND GUY (CJs USE MANUAL CABLES TO OPERATE MR. HEATER)

HEATERS HAVE "TRAP DOORS" (MAYBE MORE THAN ONE) WHICH DIVERT AIRFLOW TO YOUR WINDSHIELD, FACE, FEET, SOMETIMES BETWEEN "HEAT" AND "A/C"

THESE DOORS, OVER THE YEARS, USED MANUAL (W/ YOUR FINGERS!), CABLES, VACUUM, AND ELECTRICITY TO OPERATE THEM

HERE'S THE THING--DOOR MAY BE BROKE OR STUCK, CABLE STUCK OR BROKE, VACUUM DISCONNECTED, OR A MOTOR BAD OR NO SIGNAL REACHING IT (WHICH THEN COULD BE A FUSE,SWITCH OR WIRING ISSUE

WHATEVER MAY BE THE CASE!

SO I'M GONNA HOOK YOU UP WITH ONE OF THE BEST "MONKEY SEE, MONKEY DO"! RESOURCES I KNOW OF!

OTHER SUGGESTIONS YOU MIGHT SEARCH WITHIN ARE TO INVESTIGATE SIMILAR FORD, MERCURY CAR VIDEOS OF THAT ERA, YEAR/ MAKE/ MODEL/ HVAC/ BLEND DOORS/ HEATER/ ACTUATOR/ MOTOR/ ETC....OR COMBINATIONS, YOU'D BE SURPRISED AT WHAT YOU CAN FIND ABOUT ANYTHING.

LET ME KNOW IF YOU COME UP W/ SOMETHING AND GET 'ER DONE!

SOMETIMES (NO PROMISES) WE CAN GET DIAGRAMS THAT MIGHT SHOW THE COMPONENTS

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC