Engine Lack of power?

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge. start there first. could be low fuel pressure misfire etc. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down these guides and report back.

Check fuel pressure is fine. check for codes codes come up P0752. that is all, puzzled.

there is no code 752 check battery for condition including load test.

Have installed new battery and the code is P0752 say open (A solenoid )in transmission but have replaced that its a shift solenoid that was per auto zone but still same problem I know I must be over looking something simple . My wife says buy new car help me not have more car payments . Lol also drop fuel tank and checked for trash but very clean no dirt or rust trash . Lost on what to do

the code you gave me does not exist it's code 753 not 2 make sure you give us the correct codes. have amechanic look at this because the solenoid is not getting battery voltage for one and it may be a connection or short causing this. this has to be checked with a pro scanner

My sons car will start and run fine at idle. As soon as you shift into drive it will bog down and stop running. Would this be the transmission sensor? Doesn't sound like the fuel pump bc it runs at idle? Any advice? Also, there is an input sensor and output sensor for this car, which would it be or would it be best just to replace both? Thanks for any help.

You should start with checking for trouble codes instead of guessing what could be wrong. There are so many possibilities and if trouble codes are present, they would tell you which circuit has a fault.

It could be the engine that has problem instead of the transmission.

I am going to take your advice and have him get the car down to a local Autozone for a diagnostic scan. As you read through the symptoms would you think we could rule out the fuel pump? I would think if it were the fuel pump it would have a hard time running at all?

Right, this don't seem to be a fuel pump problem.

It could be the engine idling speed is too low.

I have a 2005 ford escape and today I noticed that that when I press on the gas my car seems not to have get up and go.. I noticed that My PRMs go to about 4 rpms but as soon as I take my foot of the gas peddle it drops down to about 2 rpms. it feels like the car has no power and if I go above 50 it feels like the car is sound like it is struggling.. When I try to go up a hill I loose all power. anyone have a suggestion to what could be the problem?

If the transmission is not slipping-see below:

Possibilities: Inspect and test all the following listed below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it.

My 04 escape struggles to reach 30 mph. Trouble code for tps sensor low input, I changed tps sensor,cleaned IAC valve and cleaned throttle body. Nothing changed. Also fairly low idle. Any help appreciated.

rescan for code as it may be a shorted wire or another sensor causing problem. check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.send us the dtc but it may be another problem

The DTC was po122. TP sensor low circuit. The check engine light has'nt come back on yet as i unhooked the battery when i changed tps sensor.I'll try and get a fuel pressure gauge this afternoon.. It was loaned out at the auto parts store when I checked. Thanks!!

disconnecting the battery will not make the code go away it just stored into the computer. unless you have a scanner is the only way to erase it.is this an electronic throttle control? it makes a difference it may need a programming reflash but need to know what type of throttle it is

Trouble codes are p1120,po113,po511, po403. Fuel pressure is fine. Seems to be a hissing at the egr valve when idling. Included is a picture of throttle body are. Advice appreciated.

for 113 check iat and or maf sensor for resistance see pics on where. check for a vacuum leak or cracks around egr or bad gasket. make sure it's cleaned out as well as sometimes they clog. need to know if it 's electric or vacuum though . for 511 check idle air control valve for plugging and or pintle sticking. best to clean this and throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner.for 1120 by cleaning throttle plate may take that code away. also check for a cracked intake manifold at egr if it's plastic,

I have recently noticed a lack of power when i try to accelerate, along with a blowing noise, like a 'shhhhhh....'. This noise is only heard when I push the gas pedal.
When I started the engine cold, I looked under the hood and under the vehicle for a leak somewhere, and I could see exhaust steam coming from under the engine. I am assuming there is an exhaust leak at or right around the manifold area. Am I correct to assume this is where I am losing power due to lost compression, and where I am hearing the loud 'whooshing' sound when I push on the gas? It seems the sound is right behind my dash/firewall, so that would put it right at the manifold area.

Do you have a check engine light on
and if so check for code s
Suspect exhaust flex pipe
check with your local exhaust repair shop

Thats the wierd part, no light.

Any ballpark on what repair costs for something like that would be?

If it is the flex pipe to cut and replace would be around $160

My 2004 Ford Escape; when I crank it up it idles high then idles really low & start to miss then you hear a hissing air sound. When I put my foot on the break & put into drive if misses more unless I idle the rpm to 1 the missing stops but the hissing is louder the more gas I give. Also when you drive it up hills it loses power and speed go's down to 5 miles cars have to go around me. But on open flat roads it's ok & the check engine light never comes on. I put new spark plugs in, new idle control value, EGR value, mass air flow sensor & new vacuum lines. Still no help. I even had guy at advance try and check for a code but there wasn't a code he said, so what can I do to fix my SUV?

Where would I look for the flex pipe? Does it come right out of the manifold?

If you hear a hissing, there has to be a vacuum leak. Can you tell aprox where it is coming from? Have you checked the intake, brake booster...?

flex pipe

Yes all that has been check too. Thanks for the reply back. This escape has me puzzled

I have your sollution for you! U said u have a hissing noise? Low power?
Clogged converter! Run the vehicle, get it hot, you wont have any exhaust pressure, if u step on the gas, no increased exhaust presure, at the tail pipe. You might get under the car and feel air rushing out from the flange connecting to the the converter pipe and also it will be extreamly hot.

How did you check for vacuum leaks?

Well, I'm thinking you are correct. On my way to the exhaust repair shop yesterday, I hear a sudden louder rush of air under the hood. Turns out the EGR valve had a hole in it, where the metal literally 'popped'. So I replaced the valve, and the associated solenoid, and now I am back to the original problem, of low power and a 'hissing' noise whenever I step on the gas. I am going to have a back pressure test done. Did the EGR valve pop because of the pressure from the clogged converter?

I had all vacuum lines replaced. You thank it could be the coil on top of the spark plug boots?

VERY POSSIBLE

NEXT SHOULD catalytic converter AND EXHAUST SYSTEM back pressure test

If it was a coil pack issue, the check engine light should be on. Regardless, since you hear a hissing sound, you need to focus on that. I feel confident there is a vacuum leak at some point causing the problem. Plus, for you to hear a hissing, it has to be a substantial leak.

2004 Ford Escape, 3.0 V6, While driving, getting an air blowing sound when pushing the gas, and a lack of power, takes a lot longer to gain speed. It seems I have some kind of a compression issue.

Silly question , but are all the spark plugs still in the heads?

mark (mhpautos)

But we're could it be at? The hissing sound to me is comeing from the passenger side. And more gas you give it louder it sounds. Like I said before when I crank it up; it idles high then starts idleing down past 1 rpm the really low and my escape starts to miss and hiss sound. Then I give it gas and get the rpm to 1 and it stops missing but the hissing air sound gets louder. But when I put my foot on the break and put into drive it misses and hisses more. Also when I driving it down the road and start up a hill it loses speed power; I will be running 60 miles an hour the time I get to the top of the hill with the peddle to the floor I will only be running 12 miles an hour. Also I can be driving in town and just lose all gas power I will have to stop and turn off my SUV wait a min or two then crank back up and have gas power. This is getting to me. I'm about to see if I can sale it.

First let me correct, the engine is automatic.
Not a silly question at all, b/c before this issue, I was getting cylinder misfire codes in wet weather along with some chugging, but then in dry weather the next day, no more chugging, and the engine light went off.
I bought new plugs anyway due to 95,000 miles, haven't put them in yet, hopefully tomorrow. Do you think the air blowing noise could be coming from the head?

Check that there is no exhaust leak at the manifolds, this will chug, check that there is no obvious exhaust pipe leaks as well, do a scan as well as there will be a set fault code even with the light now off.

mark (mhpautos)

mark, thank you. That's the first bottom-line, common sense advice I have received regarding this issue. The guy at my local parts store said b/c the light went off, that no code would be read. I guess he was just being lazy. I am going to change the plugs, and look for any leaks, and go from there.
Take care

I just purchased the car, I changed the plugs because were gapped at .32, the car calls for .52-.56 so I set it at .54, I put everything back together gaskets were fine. Now when I start the car it shakes bad and engine rattles like a misfire or something. When I unplug the iacv the car should cut off but doesn't so I replaced it and that still didn't fix it. Then I sprayed brake cleaner everywhere and no change in idle so there's no leak.i'm or of ideas and there is no check engine light. The car is being horrible gas mileage and has no power/go at all when I push the pedal hard.please help