Timing belt replacement

Timing belt replacement - 1.5L & 1.6L - DOHC -2004 Kia Rio Torque specifications: Ft. Lbs. (N.m) Crankshaft Pulley Bolt 9-13 (12-17) Crankshaft Sprocket Bolt 80-87 (108-118) Timing Belt Guide Plate Bolt 9-13 (12-17) Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley 28-38 (38-51) Lock Bolt Water Pump Pulley Bolt 9-13 (12-17) Timing Belt Cover Bolts INCH Lbs. (N.m) 70-97 (8-11) Timing belt replacement- 1.5L & 1.6L - DOHC -2004 Kia Rio Removal and installation Timing belt: CAUTION:This application is an interference engine. Do not rotate camshaft or crankshaft when timing belt is removed, or engine damage may occur. Removal: 1.Disconnect negative battery cable. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts, and remove tension from power steering and air conditioning compressor drive belt. Remove power steering and air conditioning drive belt. 2.Loosen and remove generator bolts. Remove water pump pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley and timing belt guide plate. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers. 3.Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on crankshaft sprocket is aligned with timing mark on engine. Ensure "I" mark on intake camshaft sprocket is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover, and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover. CAUTION:DO NOT move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned. 4.Loosen tension-er pulley lock bolt. While protecting timing belt with a rag, remove tension-er pulley. If belt is to be reused, mark direction of timing belt rotation for proper re-installation. Remove timing belt. Inspection Replace timing belt if it is contaminated with oil or grease. Check belt for wear, fraying or other damage. Inspect idler pulley and tension-er pulley for uneven wear and smooth bearing operation. Inspect camshaft sprockets and crankshaft sprocket for broken teeth or damage. NOTE: Replace tension-er spring whenever timing belt is replaced. Replace any component that shows damage or excessive wear. Installation 1.Install tension-er pulley. Pull tension-er pulley to its furthest point, and tighten lock bolt. Check that timing mark on crankshaft sprocket is aligned with timing mark on engine.Ensure that camshaft sprockets are aligned with marks on cylinder head cover. 2.Install timing belt onto crankshaft sprocket first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket, and finally, tension-er pulley. Ensure there is no looseness in belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft sprocket, or between intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets. 3.Loosen tension-er pulley lock bolt, and allow tension-er spring to apply tension to timing belt. Do not add additional tension. Tighten tension-er pulley lock bolt to specification.. 4.Rotate crankshaft two full turns (clockwise only), and align timing mark on crankshaft sprocket with timing mark on engine block. Ensure that marks on camshaft sprockets align with marks on cylinder head cover.If marks do not align, remove timing belt and repeat process from tension-er installation. 5.Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft sprockets. If deflection is not 0.39-0.50" (11-13 mm) with 22 lbs. (10 kg) of force applied, repeat installation process from tension-er installation. 6.Install lower and upper timing belt covers, timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley. Install water pump pulley. Tighten all bolts to specification. 7.Install generator belt and adjust tension. Install power steering and air conditioning drive belt, and adjust tension. Connect negative battery cable.

The information I'm looking for is which way does the pulleys actually go back on each cam? When looking at pictures 100_1377, 1378, and 1379, the pins on each cam and the "I" and "E" on the pulleys. The pulleys can either go on the cam facing the "I" or the "E".

I understand how to align the pulleys with the timing mark after the pulleys are on. But attaching the pulleys to the cam, do I also do the same for each pulley with the cam pins? Meaning, while putting pulley on the back cam or Intake cam, do I also put the cam pin facing the "I"? And the same for Exhaust "E" on the right cam?

hey man thanks again..

OHIO28

Ok here is a pic of what it should look like when they are installed. Hope this helps. Thanks.

racefan966---Sorry this is not what I'm asking. The picture 2CARPROs keep showing is the timing mark allignment after the pulleys are installed. I need information for installing the pulleys on the cams. See the pulleys can either go on at 12 or 6 o'clock. Which would effect the timing mark (the picture you attached).

I need the picture for putting on the pulleys on each cam. I wrote, "The information I'm looking for is which way does the pulleys actually go back on each cam? When looking at pictures 100_1377, 1378, and 1379, the pins on each cam and the "I" and "E" on the pulleys. The pulleys can either go on the cam facing the "I" or the "E".

I understand how to allign the pulleys with the timing mark after the pulleys are on. But attaching the pulleys to the cam, do I also do the same for eah pulley with the cam pins? Meaning, while putting pulley on the back cam or Intake cam, do I also put the cam pin facing the "I"? And the same for Ehaust "E" on the right cam?"

Please re-read the above question, yal have been great help in the past. Thank you

OHIO28.....

The guide slots are pointed down best I can tell. Here is the only other pic I can find.

Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Kia Rio 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

HELP!!!! Understanding if the timeing belt breaks, I probally have some bent valves to also change. What other damage to the engine may occur in this case? Thanks for your time and help..

Ohio28......

Generally the valves is the worst !! check the piston tops and also after replacing the valves have the head pressure tested before replacement in vehicle !

HOW TO...

TIMING BELT
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable. Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts, and remove tension from power steering and air conditioning compressor drive belt. Remove power steering and air conditioning drive belt.
Loosen and remove generator bolts. Remove water pump pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley and timing belt guide plate. Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on crankshaft sprocket is aligned with timing mark on engine.
Ensure "I" mark on intake camshaft sprocket is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover, and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover. See Fig. 4 .
CAUTION:DO NOT move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.

Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.

While protecting timing belt with a rag, remove tensioner pulley. If belt is to be reused, mark direction of timing belt rotation for proper reinstallation. Remove timing belt.

Installation
Install tensioner pulley. Pull tensioner pulley to its furthest point, and tighten lock bolt. Check that timing mark on crankshaft sprocket is aligned with timing mark on engine.
Ensure that camshaft sprockets are aligned with marks on cylinder head cover.
Install timing belt onto crankshaft sprocket first, then idler pulley, exhaust camshaft sprocket, intake camshaft sprocket, and finally, tensioner pulley.
Ensure there is no looseness in belt between idler pulley and exhaust camshaft sprocket, or between intake and exhaust camshaft sprockets.
Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt, and allow tensioner spring to apply tension to timing belt. DO NOT add additional tension. Tighten tensioner pulley lock bolt to specification.

Rotate crankshaft two full turns (clockwise only), and align timing mark on crankshaft sprocket with timing mark on engine block.
Ensure that marks on camshaft sprockets align with marks on cylinder head cover.
If marks do not align, remove timing belt and repeat process from tensioner installation.
Measure timing belt deflection by applying moderate pressure midway between camshaft sprockets. If deflection is not 0.39-0.50" (11-13 mm) with 22 lbs. (10 kg) of force applied, repeat installation process from tensioner installation.
Install lower and upper timing belt covers, timing belt guide plate and crankshaft pulley. Install water pump pulley. Tighten all bolts to specification.

Install generator belt and adjust tension. Install power steering and air conditioning drive belt, and adjust tension. Connect negative battery cable.
let me know

My 2004 Kia Rio with 74k broke the timing belt and broke piston and valves in #4 cylinder. Sent head to maching shop for repairs and we replaced piston and rod assembly. We are now assembling and head is on the block. My question is, the cam pulleys were removed from the cams previously for the head repairs and now we have no idea how the cam pulleys orient to the cam shafts since the pins on the cam shafts can install one of two different ways being the pulleys have a slot across the center rather than just one hole. The head was installed with all pistons level in the cylinders, 90 degrees after TDC. How do we install and time properly? Are there some detailed diagrams and pictures with instructions that you can direct me to? I have tried kiatechinfo with no help in this area and have been unsuccessful with locating information on the net about this subject. I think if I had some indications on what I should look for concerning the orientation of the cam lobes for the #1 cylinder in relation to TDC I will be able to proceed with com confidence, but I certainly don't want to destroy the valves being it is an interference engine. Any help that you can give in this area would be much appreciated.

Refer to the belt routing diagrams site on this page. As far as TDC, when the #1 pistion is at TDC, the cam should be the farthest away from opening any valves as it can.

timing marks on 2004 kia rio on cam shaft

Im wondering if the timing belt diagram and instructions for my 2009 Kia Rio is the same as all the other diagrams and instructions from differentit years, for changing it.

For what liter engine?

1.6 dohc

Put piston no.1 on its compression stroke/TDC then align cam and crank sprockets markings indicated it the repair manual-

Engine Mechanical problem
2003 Kia Rio 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Which cam timing marks do I use? Intake or exhaust Do I use the same timing mark on each cam and where do they point to? Thank you

Refer to the belt routing guides listed on this site.

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Kia Rio 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Where can I find a diagram for a ignition timing belt replacement indicating timing belt marks?

Thank you.

((Crankshaft sprocket timing belt alignment mark))

((Camshaft sprocket positioning for timing belt installation))

Thanks for using 2CarPros.com!

how to change the timing belt on a 2001 kia rio

Removal

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Loosen power steering lock bolts and nuts accordingly and remove tension from power steering (P/S) and/or air conditioning (A/C) compressor drive belt.
Remove P/S and/or A/C drive belt.
Loosen generator mounting bolts and adjusting bolt.
Remove generator bolts.
Remove water pump pulley.
Remove crankshaft pulley and timing belt guide plate.
Remove upper and lower timing belt covers.
Turn crankshaft so that timing mark on timing belt pulley is aligned with timing mark on engine.

Check that "l" mark on intake camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover and "E" mark on exhaust camshaft pulley is aligned with mark on cylinder head cover.
Notice : Do not move camshaft or crankshaft once timing marks have been correctly positioned.

Loosen tensioner pulley lock bolt.
Protect timing belt with a rag.
Remove tensioner pulley.
Remove timing belt.

I am having a difficult time finding the timing marks for this vehicle...please help.

Thanks,
Anne

I was told that the timing belt should be changed at 75,000 miles. in addition i was told that the water pump andtensiner should also be changed. What is the average cost of repair for the timing belt? and should these other additions be performed or are there more?

yes that is a good idea during timing belt replacement..

Car broke down while driving. my mechanic checked it and said it was the timing belt, and said since it was not cut off there is a 50-50% chance from experience. there was no interference with the valves in the engine.

Just to double check i called the dealership and where I got the car from and they said there was a 90% chance the engine is affected, though i only called to ask how much to fix i for got t tell them it was not cut off. what do you think?

if the belt didn't break then it's probably ok and just needs the timing belt or timing belt kit which includes waterpump sometimes and all pulleys and tensioner. if it's single overhead cam it' is not interference engine if it is dual cam then it is an interference engine. but if it didn't jump time nor belt broke it is ok to replace belt. even if it jumped time it may be ok which a compression check will tell when new belt is installed

How long does it take a normal shop to replace

Depends on the model, year, engine size, and accessories that are in the way. Most shops go by a "flat rate" guide that spells out every part of a procedure for a given model, then adds or subtracts small amounts for things that add difficulty or when two things can be combined into one procedure. That way all shops quote the same times and the only variables are their hourly shop labor rate, and whether they're including extra things to insure the reliability of the repair, (which means they have your best interest at heart), or if they're cutting corners in an attempt to save you money or so they can provide a lower estimate to get the job.

You listed the wrong engine size so I can't look up the parts. If the water pump on your engine is driven by the timing belt, it is foolish to not replace it too since its failure can lead to failure of the new timing belt. If you have an "interference" engine, a broken timing belt results in bent valves and that turns into a real expensive repair. All conscientious mechanics will insist on replacing the water pump at the same time the belt is replaced. There may also be a hydraulically-controlled tensioning device for the belt and that should be replaced to insure the quality of the repair.

If you don't trust the estimate you were given, get a second opinion from a different shop, but then be sure you're being quoted for the same parts and procedures. You didn't say why the belt is being replaced, and you didn't provide any other details, so my only recommendation, if it applies, is for that second opinion, don't ask for the cost to do a repair that was recommended by the first shop. Let the second mechanic perform his own tests and diagnosis, then see what he comes up with. If you just ask for an estimate to replace the belt, they may not bother to inspect the other parts like the water pump or tensioning pulleys, then they'll have to surprise you later with those extra things they didn't know about.

Some insecure mechanics who don't have confidence in their skills may purposely berate the first estimate in a misguided attempt to make them self look better by cutting their competitor down when they know about that first estimate. Other mechanics, if they're friends with the people at the first shop, may purposely give you a much higher second estimate to make their buddies look good. Experienced mechanics will never take on a job based solely on someone elses word or based on the request of an uninformed or uneducated customer. By "uneducated", I mean a typical person who isn't expected to know all the things that can go wrong by cutting corners, all the legal ramifications of working on a car, and all the extra things we do to look out for your best interest in the long run. Most of us try to save you money, but not when it means the repair will last half as long or the procedure is not a good value.

I forgot to add that for my '88 Grand Caravan, the timing belt takes about four hours to replace, and another half hour for the water pump. An experienced mechanic will get it done in a lot less time but you would still be charged 4 1/2 hours. An inexperienced mechanic who doesn't know exactly which tools to grab, which bolts have to come out, etc, will take longer than 4 1/2 hours, but that's still what you would be charged. That's what is meant by flat rate. You get charged for the amount of time specified regardless of how long the job actually takes.

My van is pretty easy to work on and take apart. There are a few engines that are so complicated that removing the engine is necessary to replace the timing belt. Fortunately there aren't many cars like that. Most engines newer than mine are packed in so tightly that a lot of extra stuff has to be removed, and that takes time that is already factored in to the flat rate times. As a general guess, I'd suggest yours may take six hours, but that's a major generalization. If you were quoted twice that much time, don't run and complain that I said it should be less. If you were quoted less time, that doesn't mean they're doing shoddy work. I'm only suggesting that there's very few engines where the timing belt can replaced in only two or three hours. There are some engines that use up to four camshafts instead of one, and they require very uncommon specialty tools to do the job, and those could take perhaps eight to ten hours or more. I suspect yours will fall somewhere in the middle of that range.