Engine shut off while driving?

I have the same exact issue. I read on multiple kia forums to replace the input and output generation sensors on top of the transmission. 178.00$ later I did so myself and given that it was a very simple fix ( It took about a half hour) it did not fix my problem. Now the car shuts off completely and will not start again. I know it is electrical, just don't know exactly what or where. Hope I saved you some cash. Also this guide can help fix it if this doesn't work.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

car starts then stalls almost immediately

I would check your idle air control valve.

How do I test this? Is there a way other than replacing it?

My next door neighbors wife's 04 Optima dies dieing and after fueling. If she leaves it running, while fueling it will die and starts and dies several times before taking off and acting normal. If she shuts it off while fueling, it starts and dies several times before it gets back to normal. She does hear a vacume release when she opens the fuel cap. After the mess up, the car runs great until she needs fuel again. Then it repeats itself. It's weird, and must not like fresh gas?

hello,

My 2004 Kia Optima does the same thing. After refueling the engine starts and dies several times. I need to rev the engine and put the car in gear before the engine dies. Once the car is in gear and moving everything is OK.

I talked this over with my mechanic and he thinks its related to the vapor system, fuel pump (or filter) or the gas cap.

The "check engine" light came on about 2 weeks ago and a computer check shows an emissions problem or a gas cap problem.

not a fuel problem....runs great up to 3000 rpms. if i press the excelerator to the floor it will run up then cut down to 3000 then back up and back down.

I read the post for engine and fuel troubleshooting but I'm still not sure which my problem could be. It started about two weeks ago with just a hesitation once in a while. Then three days ago it started occassionlly cutting off when idling. At first is acts like it is flooded and is difficult to crank. After starting I can be driving and feel a hesitation then it shuts down. Yesterday it did about 7 times on I-95 interstate and now my check engine light stays lite. Will it damage anything to drive it?

Thank you,
Patricia Baine

Mine is doing the same thing. It started hesitating a few weeks ago. Then killed out altogether on the highway and restarted when I pushed the gas pedal. Since then it either hesitates or dies periodically without warning, usually while driving, sometimes while coming to a stop or turning. Engine light goes on & off. While it was off, Autozone code test showed an electrical issue. Where do we start? Powertrain ground? Does that make sense?

2003 Kia Optima 6 cyl manual
The car will run fine for a while but then for no reason will die as if it is getting no fuel. I have replaced the fuel pump and it ran fine for about a week. Now it is doing the same thing. either it will die or if truned off just not start. if you wait about a hour it crank right up as if nothing has happend. When i try to crank the car it will turn over but seem as if it is getting no fuel. Do you have any idea what is wrong?\

John

You need to check if the engine is getting spark and fuel. One will most likely be missing. From that point, then you need to troubleshoot that component.

i have changed fuel pump and fuel relay did not help

Does it starts back up when it stalls? Also do you have a check engine light coming on-

I have the same problem with my 2004 kia optima lx with the 2.4. It will run about ten miles then die and wont start back. Once I let it sit for about 30 min it will start and go a short distance. I have replaced the computer, coil packs, cam sensor, idle sensor, fuel pump,actually to many parts to list. The problem continues without the check engine light coming on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Engine starts then shuts off a few seconds later. Turn off ignition, restart, same shuts off again.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

There are several things that can cause this. First, take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Since it always starts and then stalls, my first suspect is a bad crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this and see if it mirrors the conditions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Starting the car in the mornings, cold or hot, starts right up, idle begins to fluctuate between 750 and 3000 RPM. Turning the key off and right back on four or five times, the idle settles down to 750. Placing the car in gear, drive 300 feet or so and it dies. Will not start for sometimes five minutes, sometimes an our. Get back in, turn the key and starts, may run for three or four days, 2-3000 miles and then it dies. When it dies, there is a smell of bad gas, sweet smell. Acts like it is vapor locking, which fuel injections is not supposed to do. Have replace fuel filter, throttle position sensor, engine coil, mass air flow sensor, spark plugs and wires. This shutting off also can occur while driving at 70 miles per hour. Most times you can tell when it will die, as it hesitates when accelerating, you better find someplace to pull over. I am afraid it will stall and someone get hit. The check engine light is on and reading the codes, says the coolant sensor has high voltage. I have replaced the sensor, stays off for an week or so, then comes back with same reading.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent them

also try resetting your anti theft unit if no manual look online on how to do it. but you need to do the other thing s first you may have low fuel pressure should be 37 w/vacuum connected and 46-49 w/o. coolant sensor should have 2.31 -2.59 ohms at 68 degrees and 0.30-0.34 at 176 degrees.

When i start the car cold it starts okay but weak as if it is going to shut off, but then the rpm goes up regular. Then when i drive the car fifteen minutes time i shut the car off and come back fifteen minutes later it starts then it shuts off. i start it again and it want to shut down but i give it gas a it stay on. i try the form cleaning,i change the mass flow senor, i change idle position senor, i change two more sensors that have to do with the throttle. do you have any idea why this is happening?

Hello,

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Here are a couple of guides to help you confirm the problem and get it fixed:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

We should also run the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken

My car has been recently stuttering when at idle then dies. Sometimes it doesn't do it. If I unplug my MAF it stops. I'm not sure if it is possible to drive without a MAF plugged in for a long time. I have replaced the MAF, 02 sensors, and filter. I have cleaned my MAF as of 20 mins ago and it ran fine then I turned it off and tried again and it jumped so bad it felt like the transmission was about to fall out. I also cleaned the Intake Air control valve and the throttle body.
I also replaced my radiator yesterday as well, it had some kind of gook (almost like stop leak) all in it and it wouldn't come out even after flushing it. So i just replaced it. I only need this car til February, then I am getting a new one and can afford to work on this one over time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi erfende,

Thank you for the donation.

Does the Check Engine Lamp indicates and did you try to retrieve for trouble coes?

Since you have unplug sensors, there could be false trouble codes so erase all trouble codes and after a test drive, check for trouble codes again.

Let me know what you find.

old school reply, use some fuel additive. there may be some setements in the fuel tank that cuts down on fuel supply to the engine. Also I would change the fuel filter, those are the cheapest and most sensable things to do.

Every time my car sits out in the sun or when its hot out, when I drive it, my RPMs will fluctuate from normal, which is around 2000, up to 3000 and down to 0 then back to normal. Sometimes is stays at 0 for a few seconds before shooting back up. A few times I've even had my engine totally quit on me and I can't get it started back up unless I let it sit for a little bit. I was just wondering if you could tell me what could cause it to do this.

My first suspect would be the idle air control valve (IAC). The IAC is responsible for maintaining the engine idle speed. However, you said normal is around 2000 RPM's. That is extremely high. It should be around 900.