Jerking

Have the computer scanned for any codes and post the numbers here.

Also read the guides below on misfires and common causes, it my help you figure it out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-surges

Shakes or Wobbles problem
2005 Chevy Impala 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my 05 chey impala has a misfire and i have checked all spark plugs nd cables also did compression test nd it all checked out good..... all coil packs are good and working... i have not checked injectors but when i disconnect the cables to spark plugs it cuts off a bit so woukld that mean that they are working... also wanted to know if it would have a miss if the fuell pressure regulator was faulty nd injecting gas into the intake through the vaccume hose?

I have change my spark plugs and wires, the fuel filter too. My car is still miss firing, what do I do and can I fix it my self?

Is your check engine light on? Have you had the computer scanned? If so what are the codes? If you haven't had it scanned most major auto parts stores (autozone, advance, etc) will scan it for you free of charge.

There are many Things that can cause a miss fire, it could be fuel related, ignition related...

Please post a little more info and we will do our best to help you.

Thank you and I look forward to helping you.

Dan

I have had it put on auto zone machine the code was 300 which is random miss fire

The p0300 is helpful, if it was a specific cyliner or cylinders miss firing the codes would indicate which ones (p0301 is cyliner one and so on) This indicates all cylinders are miss firing. You have elliminated plugs & wires (used correct plugs, gapped them properly, made sure connections were clean,wires seated properly and replaced your fuel filter)

Have you checked fuel pressure? The fuel pressure, with the key on engine off your pressure should be between 52 - 59 psi. Low fuel pressure would cause your symptoms.

Do you have an aftermarket alarm system or remote start system on your vehciel? There is a GM Technical Service Bulletin (#02-06-05-400B) for your car about aftermarket alarm systems causing a missfire and damage to the catalitic converter.


Hope this helps, let me know.

Dan

I do have an alarm system on it. Ok the check engine light went away, now all it does is fall dead on me. Could that be the mass air sensor or something like that?

There is the GM Technical Service Bulletin about aftermarket alarm systems. I only have TSB's available to me in a .pfd (adobe reader) format and have not been able to successfully post them on here. Send me a private message with your e-mail address and I will send you all the information I have.

As for the mass air flow sensor, with only a P0300 code it is not a "usual suspect." A faulty mass air flow sensor will normally give a code for the mass air flow sensor, a code for running rich/lean or a code for poor converter efficancy. You can check the screen at the opening to the mass air flow sensor (remove the fresh air intake from the mass air flow sensor and there will be what looks like a window screen covering the intake part of the sensor) , if it is dirty you could carefully remove any dibris with a shop vac and clean the screen by spraying it with a "fuel injection safe" choke and carb cleaner. Also be sure to check and change your air filter regularly.

Do you have the ability to check your fuel pressure?
This is a very important to any drivability diagnosis. As I posted earlier it should be between 52 to 59 psi with the key on, engine off.

For information purposes, what part of the country do you live in. Most people do not factor this into the equasion, but different regions have different fuel mixture. If you live in the midwest where E85 fuel is prevelant and your vehicle is not flex fuel rated you should not use E85 fuel, the high alcohol concentration can give you drivability problems like you describe, also long crank time and no start situations. Fuels in the N.E. (where I am) have a large concentration of sulfer that can cause drivabilty problems and problems with the fuel level sensor.

Just a few more ideas. Send me that message with your e-mail and I will get you some more info.

Thank you,

Dan

The car was bought it with close to 113K. After drive for awhile. this happens. The problem goes away when the car is completely stopped at least 5 min. Replaced air filter, spark plug. Changed the oil, Transmission Flush is also done. Break and Rotor replaced for all wheels. Car runs very smoothly after 35 mph. It happens at the stop sign when the speed is 0.

I need clarification? Is it a rough idle problem? Does it hot or cold engine?

I had them put the machine on it, and it was miss firing from 5 and 6 cyc. They said it might be the alarm that I had put on it about a month ago. The alarm is autopage.

Thank you for responding so soon. I think it happens when it is hot. When i start driving it it drives and shift fine. But when the car is stopped and I accelerate more to go with traffic flow, it jerks in 1st (10 pmh), 2nd, 3rd gear. Car shifts normanl when I turn the car off and restart after 5 min. It happens when I am driving in town stopping going. No engine service light is on, but OEM reads the code of P0455. Any input is very appreciated:-)

According to the TSB an aftermarket alarm/security/remote start system may draw power away from the ignition system causing a missfire.

Any missfire left untreated will allow raw fuel into the catalitic converter and damage the "honeycomb" filter in the converter. What happens is the raw fuel burns once it hits the high temps of the converter, which melts the filter causing it to clog.

I would recommend disconnecting the system and see if your drivability concerns dimminish.

just a thought, let me know.

Thanks.

Dan

P0455= evap system gross leak, usually it's a gas cap that sets this code, but it can also be an emmissions leak in the canister or purge. Check your cas cap first, you may need a new one.

It was my fuel injection regulator.

Thank you. I just looked back though my posts and realized it didn't mention that, I am sorry. I ususally post that with the fuel pressure spec's and saw I didn't do that with yours.

Glad you have it fixed.

Thank you,

Dan

i have a 2005 3.4lr impala with a cyl 4 misfire i have rep all plugs wires fuel filter air filter pcv valve and the #4ing coil im still having the same code what should i look at next

Check compression and fuel injector on #4 cylinder.

My 2005 chevy impala was misting really bad, the motor was shaking and it wasn't picking up any speed. i took it to autozone to get it scanned. They told me that it read several misfire, but couldn't identify where the problem was coming from directly. On my way home it cut off several time and then stopped and wouldn't crank anymore. Can you tell me want the problem is?

It wouldn't crank anymore? Does it seem as though you have adequate battery power, and when the key is rolled to start, does it sound like the starter is engaging the flywheel? The no crank is peculiar symptom after misfires, and if your voltage is adequate, I would see if the engine turns manually. This may be far out to start, but if you had a coolant leak from say the intake, and it become severe enough on the inside, liquid would go into the intake port, and the corresponding cylinder. What would happen would be misfire initially, as the coolant is not combustible. If enough non combustible liquid entered the cylinder, the result would be a hydraulic lock, as fluid don't compress. This would result in the engine not cranking. Whichever is easiest out of the two choices I will give, either turning the engine manually with the crankshaft balancer bolt, or remove all 6 spark plugs, and try cranking, observing if any cylinder expells water. This is based on the fact that you have adequate battery voltage. If your battery is dead after the stall, you have a potential charge system problem instead. Is the engine size correct, a 3.4 liter?

yes the engine size is correct. I'm hoping it not the catalytic converter. Would that cause the car not to start?

Oh yeah and it turns over, but doesn't seem to be getting any connection to start. Could a faulty spark plug wire cause all the plugs to go out?

Ya Know, I bet gstacey's eyes are are "misting" also!

I've seen gstacey in action before!

During diagnosis, he throws out questions.....The question asker ---"ACTUALLY"--- performs a check or test and returns with an answer......not 2 more questions???

I can sorta relate that sorta questioning, to us maybe asking if your neighbor's car is roadworthy, think he will take you to work?

This is 2car...and that would be a solution!

Most of the time, the requested info, is sorta thrown out there, in an order or sequence, as to QUICKLY and EFFICIENTLY figure out what is wrong.

Assumptions, and bouncing from one possibility to another, generally has you spending $$$ on unnecessary parts and labor, not too mention prolonged down time!

I do not know if he was about to get there, but is your check engine light on? Have you had your codes read?.....This can be performed at many popular auto parts stores.

If you'll just say "how do you do this, etc", many of us here, can possibly explain or link you to something that might aid you!

Sorry gstacey, for butting in, I'll just kick back now, and watch....and see if the testing and looking get done!

The Medic

When you first stated 'wouldn't crank', I started thinking of the possibilities that would cause stall and no crank(i.e. hydrolock,no charge). Often times the common misconception lies between the words 'start, crank,and turn over'. Yes this could be a catalytic converter, that would cause sporadic cylinder misfires, low power, and in severe state a 'crank, no start'. Best DIY isolation, remove the oxygen sensor 'before' the catalyst, start and run the vehicle, and re-evaluate the symptoms.

My car is jerking when we take of from a stopped position it also jerks while driving. The jerk range from hard to very gentle. What could be the problem?

is there a check engine light on. have the engine scanned for a possible engine misfire.

Around 45mph my car will jerk until I give it gas to stop jerking. It also does this at 55, 65,75 it seems like it does it when I try to stay at one steady speed but the only way to stop the jerking is to hit the gas.

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it

Try disconnecting the battery cables for about 4 hours... worked for mine.

Recently my car has started almost slamming or jerking into gear. Its not doing it constantly. My guess is its doing it after the car has been running for a little bit. The car seems to jerk more when going into the final gear around 45mph but will also do it just not as bad around 20-25 and 30-35. I tried putting the car in first gear and driving and it would seem to do fine till i manually shifted into 2nd and then into 3rd and then final gear. Theres other days it didnt do it at all. I looked at the trans oil and while it doesnt smell burnt it does seem a little dirty. I have not had a flush and filter change in about 50,000 miles. I was planning on doing this myself. My main concern that it could be something else. The reason i think that it could just be with the filter is its inconsistency at times. but once it starts doing it i know exactly when its going to do it again. Any advice on this would be appreciated.

my transmisson was fine untill the dealer talked me into letting them flush it. then it started shifting hard. took it back they said the pressure silenode was bad.(they glogged it up when they flushed it) after replacing it shiftes like new less 600.00 out of my pocket.

misfire occurs when car is idleling or when you pull up and stop. Car doesn't have a misfire when you excerate or you are driving down the road at any speed. We have checked the coil,sparkplug wires,intake manifold & gaskets for leaks.

Clean out the idle air control valve and EGR and PCV valves and also clean the MAF sensor with an electronic cleaner CRC and see what happens

i changed fuel filter ,plugs and wires still misfiring. please help

Have you checked your intake vacuum?

Hi i have a 2009 impala and i just hot it not long ago and recently it has been doin a hard take off feeling like aomeone hit me from the back amd i can here the transmission trying to change gears then jerks into gear. What can cause this problem

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it