Engine jerking

2003 FORD ESCAPE
99,142 MILES • 3.0L • 6 CYL • AUTOMATIC
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Yesterday I noticed while in park,or at red light or stop sign it starts jerking. It almost feels like it is going to shut off on me. No check engine lights on dash come out. We checked oil, transmission fluid,water and all are fine. Have not seen any kind of leakage under car. This just started happening yesterday, I'm really hesitant on driving and getting stranded but need to get to work every day. I take care of an elderly man who depends on me. I would appreciate any help in this matter. I have an oil change scheduled for Friday. Thanks in advance.
May 5, 2020 at 1:32 PM
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CJ MEDEVAC
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Cleaning this will cost you less than $10.00 to try. Replacement will be more.

Here, is what controls idle (idle air control-IAC)....it has a plunger in it that constantly moves, allowing itsy-bitsy amounts of air to bypass the closed throttle valve to mix with the fuel from the injectors

This was my experience with the wifey's '03 Ford Escape w/3.0L.

Our Escape would idle low, then it got to point it would die when you stopped.

Revving + holding brake was only way to keep it running.

No warning or service lights came on.

Sometimes while it is running and acting up, you can give the IAC a little "love tap" with a wrench or screwdriver. This is not a fix, just a test! If you notice a difference in the RPMs and it runs better, you may be more confident that you are probably dealing with the correct problem part! This "test" sometimes has no effect.

I took the IAC off and cleaned it, it seemed fine, but just because the engine had over 100,000 miles on it, I went ahead and replaced it (preventative maintenance). I figured it had been moving and wearing for a long time.

This was the wife's rig, so that was the big factor!----I take no chances---she'll whoop my butt!

this is a very simple thing to clean or replace.......no need to take it to the stealership!

The only difficult thing about it is not to drop the 2 screws you removed to take it off!

We're gonna use "throttle body cleaner" (from an auto parts store) and clean the IAC and the hole it came out of.

Here's a couple of guides from our "Repair Guides", top right of our pages.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

another

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Keep us posted as you progress.

The Medic

These pics are of the wife's Ford Escape and IAC.
May 5, 2020 at 4:31 PM
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Thank you will get someone to check that out for me. Will let you know if that was the fix. Again thanks.
May 5, 2020 at 4:51 PM
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STRAILER
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Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response.
May 9, 2020 at 12:39 PM
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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You would have to be in the car to feel the jerking,there is no noise.
May 9, 2020 at 1:53 PM
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STRAILER
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This sounds like the engine is misfiring. I would start with a tune up which can solve your problems. This guide will help walk you through the repairs:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down this guide and report back.
May 11, 2020 at 10:50 AM
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Had someone clean the IAC yesterday as CJ MEDEVAC suggested and that has helped,not feeling any jerking. Not sure if this is going to be a temporary fix or just going to replace. But definitely looking into getting oil changed and tune up. I will keep you all updated and thanks for your responses on this matter.
May 11, 2020 at 11:40 AM
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STRAILER
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Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
May 12, 2020 at 10:37 AM
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KOPPEKING
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I have changed alot of stuff on this the injectors coils plugs mass airflow, the converters fell out and put them back on. the cyl 4 and 6 always says misfire and I checked each wire to and from pcm and they all have good wires back and forth. I have no Idea what to do. It just wont run right I cant even get it to go 5mph it want to fall flat on its face.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Engine running rough or misfiring can be cause by the following:
1.Defective spark plug.
2.Inadequate spark/coil,defective spark plug wire.
3.Lack of compression
4.False air leakage.
5.Faulty fuel injectors.
6.Insufficient fuel pressure.
7.Contaminated fuel.
8.EGR valve that is leaking.
9.Oxygen sensors.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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MTNGRRL822
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My car starts to misfire or lose fuel when it gets up to about forty five mph. It chugs then recovers, over here over. Once it starts, it will then miss at any speed and at stop lights. If I put it into neutral, the chugging stops. Only seems to do it with a power load on the engine.

Originally there were check engine codes of three and six cylinder misfires. There are no check engine codes now.

So far I have replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs, tubes/springs and the fuel pump. The pressure at the Schrader valve tests at 50 lbs.

I would appreciate any advice and/or the next diagnostic steps.
Thanks
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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You have 50 psi fuel pressure which is low for that engine, you should have between 55-65 psi.

It sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator. On the 3.0 it could be on the end of the fuel rail or inside the tank on the pump module. If it is on the fuel rail connect the pressure gauge and pull the vacuum line off If the pressure does not change or there is fuel leaking into the hose, the regulator is bad.
If it is not on the fuel rail it is on the pump. It is possible that you have the wrong pump. If you installed one without a regulator when it should have one you will get a low reading.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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MTNGRRL822
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Thank you Steve! This gives me the next steps to take which helps me a lot.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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MTNGRRL822
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Hi Steve, I just double checked that the fuel pump is compatable with my car & that the assemble included a new pressure regulator. I bought a mid-Irange Autobest pump. I will talk with the company to see if they will swap units.
If we go on the assumption that the new fuel pump is working correctly, is there something else that can cause the low pressure?
Thanks,
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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The only two items that control fuel pressure are the pump and the regulator. Unless you have a fuel line leak (would be a sizable leak spraying gas) or the pump power connections are bad nothing else there.

These days I count myself lucky when the parts are correct and working, get quite a few that are trash right out of the box.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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MTNGRRL822
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Thanks again, especially for the educational parts. I know the pump power conn. is good. I have ordered a new pump & I'll check for any leaks. Process of elimination. Thank you.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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MTNGRRL822
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Hi, I ended up replacing the fuel pump again. It helped but didn't fix the issue. The next step was replacing the ignition coils. That took care of the majority of the chugging. I believe all that's left is to get a computer 'reset' on the coils.
Thanks for the help.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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STEVE W.
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Sounds like you should have it taken care of. Between low fuel pressure and some bad coils you have eliminated 99% of the available problems.
Post back once you run it a bit.
May 12, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Sure will.
May 12, 2020 at 11:34 AM
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Can anyone tell me what the small hose is and what it's suppose to be connected to? Thank you.
May 21, 2020 at 9:53 AM
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STRAILER
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Can you please take more pictures and upload them so we can so where the hose is coming from and where it might go? we need to see more.
May 23, 2020 at 10:01 AM
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LETICIARAMOS2890
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Is this better?
May 25, 2020 at 10:55 AM
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STRAILER
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Okay, it looks like it goes to the EVAP purge solenoid. diagrams below to replace the hose it looks bad. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
May 29, 2020 at 11:37 AM