crankshaft sensor replacement please?

near the top of bellhousing. it is held in by 2 thirteen mm bolts and has a wire coming from it. look down at the bell housing from under the hood on drivers side and you will see the wire connector, follow that to the sensor. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

The crankshaft position sensor is located on the left side of the transmission bell housing. One 11mm bolt holds it in place. The harness goes up over the bell housing and comes out on the right side of the engine block. It's a three wire plug.

[quote:daf2014d43="mastertechtim"]near the top of bellhousing. it is held in by 2 thirteen mm bolts and has a wire coming from it. look down at the bell housing from under the hood on drivers side and you will see the wire connector, follow that to the sensor. hope this helps[/quote:daf2014d43]

unless your from the UK and have a rhd model then is on the passenger side !! Had me stumped for a while !

Does anyone know the location of the crankshaft position sensor for a 1997 jeep cherokee sport and how to replace it.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR Fig. 33 Crankshaft Position Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor is mounted in the transmission bellhousing at the left/rear side of the engine block (Fig. 33) . On most engines, the sensor is attached with two bolts. REMOVAL 1.Near the rear of the intake manifold, disconnect the pigtail harness (on the sensor) from the main electrical harness. 2.Remove the nut holding sensor wire clip to fuel rail mounting stud. 3.Depending upon application, remove either the sensor mounting bolt(s) or nuts. 4.Remove the sensor. 5.Remove clip from sensor wire harmess. INSTALLATION 1.Install the sensor flush against the opening in the transmission housing. 2.Install and torque the two sensor mounting bolts (or nuts) to 19 Nm (14 ft. lbs.) . CAUTION: On some models, two bolts are used to secure the sensor to the transmission. These bolts are specially machined to correctly space the unit to the flywheel. Do not attempt to install any other bolts. 3.Connect the electrical connector to the sensor. 4.Install clip on sensor wire harness. 5.Install clip over fuel rail mounting stud. Install clip mounting nut. https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm

i can go 30 miles then stop for a few minutes to get a burger and then it don't want to crank or run.

Non starting due to loss of sparks.

Non cranking is not a sensor fault. It is related to the starting circuit comprising of the battery, starter, relay, ignition switch, wiring and security system.

1997 Jeep Cherokee 273000 miles

I broke down about a month ago. I turned the car off and when I got back it, the engine would turn over but not start. I got towed by a mechanic we know and he said it was the fuel pump and replaced that. The day we got it back, the car was starting funny. It would make noise but take a long time to kick in. When it finally did kick it, it would drive fine. We finally got around to bringing it back to the same mechanic who said that it is a problem with our crank sensor. Now, my question is: why did this start the day we got it back from having the fuel pump replaced? Did the fuel pump really need to be replaced or was it the crank sensor all along (the fuel pump we had replaced the year before)? Would putting in a new fuel pump make the car start even if the crank sensor was faulty? The car will eventually start up-- if it's the crank sensor, wouldn't it not start at all?

just had a very similar problem in my 1996 cherokee with 4.0 inline 6 - turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Jeep would crank but not start, no spark, no pressure in the fuel rail, only lights that would come on in the dash were the brake and seatbelt lights. All other electrical devices would work - power doors, windows, radio, headlights, etc.
The onboard computer would not spit out self-diagnostic codes, and would not interface with an OBD-II code reader.
I unplugged the CPS sensor connector in the engine compartment (right side of engine as seen from the front, at the back near the last fuel injector, oval shaped with three pins). After this, the check engine light came back, i had pressure in the fuel rail and could hear the fuel pump, and the computer would generate the self-test codes telling me that I had no CPS input. The CPS is located on the driver's side of the transmission bellhousing near the top, has two bolts holding it in place, and can only be reached from underneath. size 11mm socket and several different extension sizes are necessary depending on the size of your hands. Mine wasn't too horrible to replace.
I used an ohm meter - holding the cps sensor connector with the plastic prong on top I measured the old connector from the left pin to the middle (approx. zero ohms), and the right pin to the middle (infinity). On the NEW CPS sensor connector I measured the pins the same way and read infinity on both readings. It seemed to me that my old CPS sensor was shorted internally, plus disconnecting it from the circuit brought my jeep partially back to life, so it seemed like I was on the right track.
I hope this info helps, my jeep started first try and no problems so far....

Do you know if your cherokee has the ability to do a self-diagnostic and spit the codes out at you using the check engine light? I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that will do this when I do an on/off sequence using the key, but only if your check engine light is working.
To do this, turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, then finally ON. (On is the position just before that extra click that starts the jeep) The check engine light will blink the number of the first code digit(count the number of flashes), then pause about 2 seconds and blink the number of the second code digit. If you have more than one error code, the light will pause about 3 or 4 seconds, then blink the first and second digits of that code the same way as before. When the computer is finished blinking "codes". it will flash 5 times, pause, then flash 5 more times to tell you that is the end of the sequence. Post back with what you find out, and someone should be able to answer with more info if you need it...GOOD LUCK!

Can I get the engine drawing with all parts labelled I have difficult cleaning sum parts such as the Crank position sensor TSp IAC since I cannot identify them.

1996 Jeep Grand cherokee 4.0 liter runs rough at times.
Would die when coming to stop or at low rpm. I would shift into neutral and I could start it and it would run again for a while. I feel that is fixed as I changed the crank shaft sensor and the problem seems to have went away. NOW I HAVE A DIFFERENT PROBLEM. The Jeep bucks at times and gets a miss fire code. Just drove it for 10 miles. At about mile five it started bucking but no code came up or check engine light. I drove it slow for a while and reved up the engine in netural and the bucking stopped. Drove the next five miles home ok.
Have replaced plugs, battery, Idle air control sensor, Throttle position sensor, intake cold air sensor, upstream and down stream O2 sensors, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor and cleaned throttle body with the sensors off to make sure I got all the areas clean.

Could it possibly be the crank sensor even though it is a new Mopar part. Or possible the water temp.sensor. A mechanic changed out the cam shaft sensor and it did not make a difference and he put the old one back in. I'M LOST. HELP

My 96 Cherokee 4.0 was doing the same thing. TPS and Cam Pos Sensor changed, same problem. Replaced fuel pump and regulator, runs like a champ.

We are installing a new computer and the jeep would not start. We were told it need a new crank senor but we do not know where to find it. I would greatly appreciate your help in the location of the crank sensor

Thanks

Left side of transmission housing. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

My jeep has developed a problem cutting out! it runs fine for 1/2 hour to an hour then it will just die? sometimes she starts straight back up and runs just for a few seconds and sometimes she wont start at all???
could this be the crank position sensor???
please help

An intermittent CPS problem can be a booger to diagnose, but I'll copy/paste my reply to a previous CPS problem to save time re-typing. Definitely recommend following the procedure to get the "Codes", might help lead you in the right direction...

just had a very similar problem in my 1996 cherokee with 4.0 inline 6 - turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. Jeep would crank but not start, no spark, no pressure in the fuel rail, only lights that would come on in the dash were the brake and seatbelt lights. All other electrical devices would work - power doors, windows, radio, headlights, etc.
The onboard computer would not spit out self-diagnostic codes, and would not interface with an OBD-II code reader.
I unplugged the CPS sensor connector in the engine compartment (right side of engine as seen from the front, at the back near the last fuel injector, oval shaped with three pins). After this, the check engine light came back, i had pressure in the fuel rail and could hear the fuel pump, and the computer would generate the self-test codes telling me that I had no CPS input. The CPS is located on the driver's side of the transmission bellhousing near the top, has two bolts holding it in place, and can only be reached from underneath. size 11mm socket and several different extension sizes are necessary depending on the size of your hands. Mine wasn't too horrible to replace.
I used an ohm meter - holding the cps sensor connector with the plastic prong on top I measured the old connector from the left pin to the middle (approx. zero ohms), and the right pin to the middle (infinity). On the NEW CPS sensor connector I measured the pins the same way and read infinity on both readings. It seemed to me that my old CPS sensor was shorted internally, plus disconnecting it from the circuit brought my jeep partially back to life, so it seemed like I was on the right track.
I hope this info helps, my jeep started first try and no problems so far....

Do you know if your cherokee has the ability to do a self-diagnostic and spit the codes out at you using the check engine light? I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee that will do this when I do an on/off sequence using the key, but only if your check engine light is working.
To do this, turn the ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF, then finally ON. (On is the position just before that extra click that starts the jeep) The check engine light will blink the number of the first code digit(count the number of flashes), then pause about 2 seconds and blink the number of the second code digit. If you have more than one error code, the light will pause about 3 or 4 seconds, then blink the first and second digits of that code the same way as before. When the computer is finished blinking "codes". it will flash 5 times, pause, then flash 5 more times to tell you that is the end of the sequence. Post back with what you find out, and someone should be able to answer with more info if you need it...GOOD LUCK!

ok i have fault codes 12 , 11 , and 54 please help

OK, here's what you have:
1. Code 11 - No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking. Could be caused by the Crankshaft Posit Sensor going bad, or by a loose connection, check plug at top rear of engine, clean, reconnect. Also follow the wires looking for broken wire. Replacing it not too bad, really. Costs approx $70.00+/-.
2. Code 12 - Direct battery input to Powertrain Control Module was disconnected within last 50 key-on cycles. OR, you disconnected the battery lately, right? Don't worry about this one, it'll go away eventually.
3. Code 54 - No fuel sync (Camshaft Signal) detected during engine cranking. There is a CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR, TOO! Haven't had to replace this one on mine YET, but can check on HOW and WHERE if someone else doesn't post first. Sounds like the computer is telling you it's possibly bad, also. (having BOTH go at the same time would be WEIRD...) I'll see whar it iz, and post back, check and clean this connector, look for broken wire, too.
If cleaning doesn't work, Replace the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR first, try running the jeep, read codes again if problem still persists.
Hmmm. Camshaft Position Sensor is in the Distributor, may be referred to by some as "Stator" - There are wires that go thru the side of the distributor base through a rubber grommet, one end terminates IN the distributor as the CAMSHAFT posit sensor, other end goes to plug connector. If memory serves me correctly, this will require removing the distributor shaft to replace, henceforth requiring removal of distributor. Mechanic's job unless you're comfortable with doing the task...

Engine Mechanical problem
1996 Jeep Cherokee V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

how do you get to the ckp sensor

Your CKP sensor is bolted to the top of the clyinder block, near the rear of the right cylinder head.

Remove the cap on the throttle body (19mm), disconnect the tube to the filter box. Mark and remove the plug wires and take off the distributor cap (small phillips). The connector to the sensor should be on the right side (facing the vehicle) of the distributor, disconnect it.

Using 1/4" drive ratchet and extension, get a bit holder with a 1/4" allen bit in it. If you reach down behind the head there is an emissions bypass tube that runs from the back of the head to the exhost manifold. The mounting bolts (2) for the sensor are just under that. May have to loosen a bell housing bolt to move a ground wire out of the way. Run the socket and extension between the tube and the head to get to the bolts.

Pull up on sensor and wiggle it till it comes out of the grommet in the bell housing. (WARNING: Make sure the grommet does not fall down into the bell housing...)

Re-insert the sensor. Again- (WARNING: Make sure the grommet does not fall down into the bell housing...) Put the bolts back in, reconnect the sensor, put the distributor cap back on, re-attach the plug wires, put the cap back on the throttle body, connect the tube to the filter box and finally connect the battery.

yes thank you for your help

picture of crank sensor

The topmost sensor should be the correct picture of it.

how to replace sensor, repair manual shows different picture of wiring.

on trans just unbolts see diagram

44,400 island miles, straight 6. After my "mechanic" replaced the water pump, the truck began starting very hard--- you have to give it alot of gas, and then once it does start, it smokes (white) and the engine will either rev way up, or chug and stall. after about 30 seconds it seems to be fine and then it runs right. He says a third of the crank shaft position sensor does note have continuity. would a bad crank shaft position sensor cause the hard start followed by irregular revving?

thanks!
Paul

[quote:0baa804a04="paulstt"]44,400 island miles, straight 6. After my "mechanic" replaced the water pump, the truck began starting very hard--- you have to give it alot of gas, and then once it does start, it smokes (white) and the engine will either rev way up, or chug and stall. after about 30 seconds it seems to be fine and then it runs right. He says a third of the crank shaft position sensor does note have continuity. would a bad crank shaft position sensor cause the hard start followed by irregular revving?

thanks!
Paul[/quote:0baa804a04]

Hey Paul,
Very possible, yet the only definitive test for a crank sensor performance is with a lab scope! Does your tech have this capability? Let me know! Also he can contact me if he needs more info/help!

Chris

[quote:0d5f9c08ef="carundell"][quote:0d5f9c08ef="paulstt"]44,400 island miles, straight 6. After my "mechanic" replaced the water pump, the truck began starting very hard--- you have to give it alot of gas, and then once it does start, it smokes (white) and the engine will either rev way up, or chug and stall. after about 30 seconds it seems to be fine and then it runs right. He says a third of the crank shaft position sensor does note have continuity. would a bad crank shaft position sensor cause the hard start followed by irregular revving?

thanks!
Paul[/quote:0d5f9c08ef]

Hey Paul,
Very possible, yet the only definitive test for a crank sensor performance is with a lab scope! Does your tech have this capability? Let me know! Also he can contact me if he needs more info/help!

Chris[/quote:0d5f9c08ef]
I doubt it. He said that he ohm'd it out. Here on St.Thomas it is hard to find competent people. I think that I'm all done with him. It looks easy enough to replace. Any tips or tricks?
Paul

Paul,
Nope, pretty straight forward. Let me know!

Chris

[quote:7825968d92="carundell"]Paul,
Nope, pretty straight forward. Let me know!

Chris[/quote:7825968d92]
Thank you very much. I replaced the NSS last weekend and the CPS today. Starts and runs well. Again thank yhou for your help
-Paul

Paul,
Thats Great! And your very welcome!

Chris