Engine shuts off while driving?

Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

A crank no start can be caused by many things, however, you already identified there is no spark. My first suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Now, the easiest way for me to identify a bad crank sensor is by checking for an RPM signal with a live data scanner when the engine is cranking. If you don't have one, see if a parts stores will lend or rent one to you. Here is a quick video that shows how one is used:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

If you determine the sensor is bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for sensor replacement.

______________________________________

PROCEDURES
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise vehicle and support.

Fig. 8 Crankshaft Sensor 2.4L See pic 1


3. Disconnect the electrical connector.
4. Remove crankshaft sensor bolt.
5. Remove the crankshaft sensor.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the crankshaft sensor.
2. Install crankshaft sensor bolt and tighten.
3. Connect the electrical connector.
4. Lower vehicle.
5. Connect the negative battery cable.

___________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Car does start but if I don’t push the gas quick enough it shuts off and when it goes to idle it will for just a second and shuts off. Blows white smoke out the rear at times that smells horrible.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The sound I hear seems to be a loose catalytic converter. What happens is the insides come loose and then rattle like that. What I need you to do is take a rubber mallet and tap on the exhaust system to see if you can recreate the sound.

Take a look through this link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

I attached a picture that shows where the converter is located. I have a feeling internally it has come apart and is causing the noise and restriction of air flow. Thus, the poor running conditions and the smell you get.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Okay, so the muffler melted the back bumper and when idling sounds like a knock and keeps lien.

Dien sorry not lien.

Also puddle of black fluid under car.

Welcome back:

Does the black fluid evaporate if you let it sit? Does is seem like oil? Where is is aprox under the vehicle?

Also, have you tried following the link for checking a converter?

Let me know.

Joe

I just replaced my spark plugs, prior to that car would not start, it starts now but dies as soon as I take my foot off the gas. before that itwould start but gas had to be pumped a few times first.

Hi, it should not be stalling, not with idle speed and ignitions computer controlled, I am sure there may be a problem that may show up with a diagnostic scan, does your check engine light come on? Your van uses a idle speed motor(IAC). it should be controlling air pressure, maybe bad or dirty. ok
It is mounted on the throttle body.
You can understand fuel injection trouble better by reading 'how it works'
To scan your engine computer you'll need a scan tool, they sell a nice couple of them at the store, they are updatable, and you'll have em for life, a fuel pressure tester and scan tool can save you thousands of dollars in just a couple of uses. k

when you start the van it cranks quickly starts then dies when it was running it shook so hard that the tires were sqeeling, i felt as if a had whiplash afterwards, we just put in a feul pump and filter do you know what could be the problem?

what do you have for engine size ?
check for spark as you cranking
do you have check engine light on and does it go out when cranking
check for codes
let me know

3.3 flex 6 cyl yes it fires just doesn't run for long and when it does finally run it makes the rpms go up in down really quick

Sounds as if you have a major vacuum leak
when it start and run do you hear a load suction under the hood
and when its running do you have a check engine light on
check for codes
check for vacuum leaks
check ignition switch operation

it came with a code needs map sensor

Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor (3.3L) is located On intake manifold good luck

this van is stumping everybody, it's still acting like it did before the map sensor was put in and they checked for vacuum leaks, there were none, but when you get the van running and it gets warm it's okay but not when it's cool they put in a temp sensor and that didn't change it have any suggestions?

disconnect all O2 sensors and give it a run

2001 Dodge Grand Caravan ES AWD, 3.8 V6, Stalls when cold start up and during driving?

A few questions and I will try to help;

How many miles on the vehicle?
When it stalls when driving, is the vehicle in motion or at a stop?
Does it matter if the vehicle has had a chance to warm up or not when it stalls when driving?

Let me know and I will look for your response and we can figure out the source of the problem.

159,000, it stalls in both cases especially on a cold morning even if its warmed up and alot during backing out of the driveway. I think its a simple problem, but you are the experts. ;-)

The first thing that I would look into is the Idle Air Control Valve, IACV, which is sometimes also referred to a the engine Load Sensor, ELS.
This is an electro-mechanical device which idles up the engine when loads such as; power steering, A/C and other accessories or situations call for it.
Electric items are tough as they fail intermitantly.
Other suspects are vacuum leaks and emissions items such as the Exhaust Gas Return Valve, EGR.

Listen for a vacuum leak while the motor is running under the hood. Also, Try running a can or 2 of BG44K. It will work wonders. Make sure to change the oil afterwards as it works so well, it makes the oil really dirty.
Pull the plugs and tell me what thney look like and listen for a vacuum leak and get back to me and we will go from there.
It can adversely affect the performance of the engine.
It is tough to diagnose problems such as these because electric/mechanical control modules feed from sensors all over the engine and accessories which makes it hard to tell if a sensor is bad, the control unit is bad, an IACV is a control unit that sometimes has integrated sensors, or if the is a problem with the Vehicle Main Computer.

Hello,

Is engine light on? On these newer vehicle just about everything will trigger the engine light. If it is on gettting codes read will assist in determining the cause of the problem.

Here are a couple other possibilities besides vacuum leaks...

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor

MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor

.

My van stalled on the way home the other day, it suddenly lost power and shutdown, I restarted it and had to flutter the gas pedal to somewhat keep it running but barily. Code #106 came up and we replaced the MAP sensor. took it around the block 8 or 9 times was about to take it on the freeway and it stalled again. I decided to change both 02 sensors. drove it aroun, took it on the freeway, ran fine (The day was cooler). started it up the next day took it around the block got it up to temperature and it did it once again. I decided to change the fuel pump and fuel filter, took it around the block somemore and got it up to temperature, again it stalls. codes 107 & 121 are now coming up and we changed the TPS sensor with no change. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?

at this point I would check the crank position sensor, these codes never come up , when bad. but it may be causing the other codes as these sensors work together.

well it starts, but when you start to take off it dies, and it will start and die again.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it, sounds like a pump.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Driving down the road approximately sixty five miles an hour, the engine shuts off. Could this be crankshaft position sensor?

It could be the CPS. In all honesty, there are a lot of things that it could be. Diagnosis is needed. Is the service engine/check engine light on? If so, get it scanned with an OBD2 scanner and get back on here with the code number(s).

If the service engine light is not on, then the issue most likely is not sensor related. I would suspect either a blown fuse or a bad fuel pump. Start with checking all of the fuses. Your owner's manual should give you fuse box locations as well as the layouts.

Start there and let us know what you find.

I switched out some of the relevant relays, checked all of fuses and they were good. Engine light does come on with the code of P is in Paul 0601. When I turn on the ignition I can hear the fuel pump primed briefly.

I've seen the P0601 on Chryslers before. What it means is that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM - Main computer) can't correctly communicate. Additionally, since it can't communicate, it can't set other codes indicating other problems. The control module needs to be replaced. There are services on ebay that can fix the original computer, but I wouldn't suggest that unless there's no other option.

So you'll have to address that problem and then see if (1) it continues stalling and (2) what codes come up.

Let us know.

I was driving and my air got really hot. Then the emergency brake light, battery, and abs light came on. The radio cut off and the windshield wipers with the fluid came on. Then the car wouldn't start back up. I just got a new alternator and starter. What could the problem be? I got my battery checked at advance auto and the y said it was good.

Does the engine crank over and not start up? I've seen some of the wiring under the hood get melted and short circuit together an this causes a lot of random symptoms. Have the computer checked for any fault codes. Start here and get back to me. TY

I recently visited your site (and I love it) I found that my 2001 3.8 L Grand Caravan was going into Limp in mode occasionally since about Dec of last year I changed the transmission input sensor and this did not help. I also disconnected the battery for 24 hours and this didnt help so I replaced the crank shaft sensor and Bingo the check engine light went away and the tranny shifted great. Drove fine for a few days then died suddenly again. It always restarts but this last time it didnt start right away and I had to get a tow. It started fine the next day. When it died last time I turned the key and where you would normally see the digital mileage reading I saw the letters d...o...n...e No kidding!!!! Any ideas? O2 Sensor maybe? Im running outta money and patience. Thanks!!!
Signed,
33 year old mom of 3

You can try a self-diagnostic test. To activate self diagnostic program:

With the ignition switch in the OFF position, depress the TRIP and RESET buttons.
While holding the TRIP and RESET button turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Continue to hold the TRIP and RESET buttons until the word CODE appears in the odometer windows (about five seconds ) then release the buttons. If a problem exists, the system will display Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's). If no problem exists, the code 999 (End Test) will momentarily appear. Post all codes that appear...

WHEN I STOP AND PARK THE MINIVAN SHUTS OFF I START AGAIN AND THE ENGINE SHAKES AND IDLES BAD FOR ONE MINUTE THEN NORMAL AGAIN ..THIS HAPPENS ONCE ADAY.CHANGE PLUGS,COIL,WIRES AND RAN GOOD FOR 1 MONTH...

The way you describe this, a plug may be misfiring. If it's new, before starting, see if any or just one is oil or gas fouling from an injector or mechanical oil control problem. That plug or plugs will tell you which of the cylinders are acting up. OK

2001 caravan 3.3 v6. it is running rough and stalling however it is throwing no engine codes. It starts right up, most of the time. The engine revs fine with no load. Once a load is applied to the engine, it starts to run rough and may stall out.

(this is my sons vehicle at college). I went to his school and trailered it home and did the following; changed the fuel filter, plugs, and wires.

I took the van out for a test drive and it ran GREAT! I did some shopping around town, and stopped at many traffic lights, no problems.

My wife drove it to work the next day, and took the kids to soccer practice, no problems.

Day 3, my wife drove it to work and we had to have it towed home, still no engine codes.

I've been reading on this site and I've come up with the following possibilities; fuel pump, (O2, map, crank, cam) sensors. If I buy all of these, it will cost me about $500 and no guarantees.

Question: do you agree that it could be any one of theses things? Do you have other suggestions? In what order would you replace the items in my list.

I forgot to mention that I did test the fuel pressure and it was 60psi but I only ran the test for 30-45 seconds. I'll figure out a way to hook up the gauge and drive it around.
thanks,

You know, the way your describing the problem, replacing the fuel filter and the tune-up had it running fine for a few days, if it was my sons van I would drive it around with a fuel pressure guage on it but if you don't have one you must remember tha the van was made to last 70,000 or 7 years. If you have not ever put a fuel pump in it and you want to just make a guess, put a fuel pump, fuel filter, and make sure the fuel is not contaminated. There is a screen called a pick-up screen on the pump, replace that also. So if new pump, filter, and pickup screen, gas clean, then the only thing left is a fuel pressure regulator or maybe an injector. If it's not running now and no gas, fuel pump no good. Just be sure it is not a bad fuse but putting a fuel pump in the gas tank was a very common job and a 3.3L that has so many miles should have a new one anyway. Those sensors usually always throw a code. I would change the pump if I had to guess. Make sure about all those items with the pump.Filter, screen, fuel contamination. It should be done anyway. But if you are a professional, you must tell the cust. it is a guess. Better to use a guage.