Intermittent no crank

Do you think you can get a video of how you need to press on the ignition to get it to start? Even if it is not acting up just get the video of what you are doing in order to get it to start. I am just looking for a little more info on this because that clearly points to a wiring issue but I just want to make sure I understand what you are doing before we make any recommendations.

Let's start with this and go from there. Thanks

I've got a picture of what I'm describing. Hopefully this helps. Let me know if you'd still like a video.

Okay. That is great. Also to confirm, this is what you replaced correct?

If so, we need to remove those connectors and inspect each of the terminals for any spread terminals? Basically you simply visually inspect them and then do a drag test using a wiring test kit? You insert this test terminal in the female terminals and make sure you feel drag on each one. If not, you need to replace that terminal or connector.

Does that make sense?

That is what I replaced, yes. So you think the issue is in the harness that connects to the ignition switch? I will add that the ignition switch feels loose when it is clipped into position, as shown in the picture. Also it feels looser when it is warmer outside than when it is cooler.

I have never done a drag test before and dont have a wiring test kit, but it makes sense. What is the wiring harness above the ignition switch? It seems to attach to the lock cylinder.

When I removed the original ignition switch, a plastic plunger (my word) and a spring fell out of the back of the lock cylinder. I was able to replace them correctly but could the heat be causing a bad connection between the spring or plunger and the ignition switch body?

Absolutely. With that information, I suspect you are exactly correct. That changes what I am thinking as far as a connector issue so I don't think the drag test is needed.

The fact that this happens when it gets hot tells me that the contacts that are the issue is expanding and you pressing on it re-establishes the connection.

What I would suggest is try to narrow it down by pressing in very specific locations to see if you can find one connector or even wire. You may have to lay on the floor and look up behind there and have someone else operate the key just to see if you can isolate the issue. Again, when you say you replaced the switch, was it the actual key cylinder shown below or the black box that you are pointing to in that picture with the electrical connector?

I replaced the black box with the arrows pointing to it. I didn't do anything with the key cylinder.

Update: Yesterday the car wouldn't crank at all (it was 95+ degrees out), even with me pushing on the back of it. We ended up having it towed to a car shop. I hope they can duplicate the issue. I'll keep you posted.

The shop thinks that it is the ignition lock cylinder housing. They think it is loose which creates a loose connection between the ignition switch and the plunger/actuator. I'll try to remember to provide an update after I get it back and have a few days to test it out.

Okay. thanks for the update. Clearly we are close to the issue so that would make sense. I just have never seen that before so that would be a new one on me if that works out to be the solution.

Let us know because I am curious about this one. We will wait to hear back. Thanks

Hi jkerley14 what is the final update?
i am having same issue with my Ford Edge 2013. Please share your final update so i can also follow same.

Hi Safeer,

He may not get back to us because this was from over a year ago but if he doesn't we can try and work through your issue to reach that solution.

It may not be the same as his anyway so that would be great info for others in the future.

Let me know if you would like to do this and we can get started. Otherwise hopefully they will return and let us know what happened.

Either way, thanks for using 2CarPros.

Ya, anyway my service due on August 23rd. i will be checking with dealer here so i will keep posted.
today also i face same issue. here it's very hot weather and car was parked not under shade it's was not starting. i kept windows open and car become cooler then it start there after even no issues. i remember i was facing problem only in hot condition.

The only things that care about heat are fuel and electrical contacts. So it could be a crank sensor or the fuel pump is not working well in the heat. However I would put my money on a crank sensor or something like this.

When this happened did the RPMs move at all when the engine was cranking? Prior to push button start engines, the RPM would move slightly when the engine is cranking. If it does then the crank sensor is working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Keep up posted on what you find with the dealer on this.

Thanks

Hey guys, I'm very sorry I never replied to this thread! At the end of the day I believe replacing the housing fixed the issue. I can't say with 100% certainty, because we no longer have the Edge from being totaled in an accident in March this year, so there wasn't a lot of time to confirm with the heat that it solved the problem, but I think it was the best fix so far.

thank you for your replies. i have given the car the dealer here first day they didn't find the issues even if they parked in hot weather next day. its luckily happened car won't start and they got error code they said to replace whole ignition assembly (which including ignition switch, cylinder etc.,) waiting for parts to arrive.
thank God, my Edge still under warranty. will update same once i replace.

Thanks guys for both of you updating this. You are helping others that visit this page in the future.

If you don't mind providing part numbers that they replace when they get it completed. That should be on the warranty copy of your receipt.

That info will surely help others that visit this page but have run out of their warranty.

Thanks again.

Hi, they have replaced all the ignition assembly but faced same problem and finally they have re-adjusted the key barrel, now it is working fine.

That is great info. Thanks for coming back and updating us. That will help others in the future. Thanks for using 2CarPros.