Instrument Cluster Dash Light Does Not Come On All The Time

2007 CHRYSLER SEBRING
140,000 MILES • 2.4L • 4 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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REALFUTBALL
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Hi, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring (2.4L, 4-cyl) and my dash lights keep going out. It will come on sometimes then flicker in and out or I will turn on my headlights and it will not come on at all so the speedometer, tachometer and fuel gauges are not lit, but I can see mileage, drive and engine lights. I have read and heard that its the inverter located in the instrument cluster that is most likely the faulty part here (under designed on Chrysler's par). I have ordered a used instrument cluster. If I do a direct swap of the instrument clusters, will I be able to retain my original miles or will I have the miles that are stored from the used part? Would it be more appropriate to try and remove just the inverter from the used cluster and try to reinstall it into my current cluster?

Thanks,
Joe
Apr 29, 2015 at 3:44 PM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I would just replace the entire cluster. As far as the mileage, it will stay the same.
Apr 29, 2015 at 6:58 PM
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REALFUTBALL
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Jacobandnickolas, thank you for the response. So are you saying the mileage is independent of the cluster unit? If I replace the entire cluster, the new (used/replaced) cluster unit will calibrate to that of my car (rather than keep the mileage of the car it was pulled from)?

Thanks
Apr 30, 2015 at 11:02 AM
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Yes, that's correct.
May 3, 2015 at 7:17 PM
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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The car will not start, no clicking, jumper cables on. All lights work except instrument cluster. Only the oil pressure light comes on when the key is turned on the instrument cluster. The key transponder light does not come on. I have recently replaced the alternator. I have read about the "automatic shutdown relay", but do not know if it will cause instrument cluster issue?
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Can you give us the sub model of this vehicle also please? trying to find the correct wiring diagram for this car.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Automatic shutdown switch usually only controls the fuel pump on a lot of vehicles, it is like a safety switch to stop fuel flow.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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Touring (Convertible).
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Okay, first thing. you are going to have to go through every fuse box and panel in the car.. Under the hood and under the dash board, there is most like a fuse or a couple gone. Check there first with a test light if you have one, key on, check for power on both sides of each fuse, especially any PCM, ECM, CRANK, type fuses.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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And here is the Auto Shut Down Relay diagram. you can check this for power as well. The ECM grounds this Relay on the dark blue/violet wire causing power on all the circuits highlighted in yellow. This will transfer power to Fuse # 24 and 25 in the fuse panel (left front inner fender well). You may have to dig a little to find this panel. As you can see in the diagram fuse #14 is hot at all times. So all those red/tan wires should be hot at that panel all the time. Let us know what you find.
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Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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Checked all of the fuses and found #19 20 amp Start (fuel) blown. Replaced it and instrument cluster and radio work except for the immobilizer light (tried both keys). Still does not crank. Also not noted before the thermometer was at -40 before the fuse change but reads correctly after. Now have check engine light but does not read on OBD2 Tester. With Ignition on ODO reads NO BUS.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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NO BUS means no communication with the ECM, I'm looking into the wiring diagrams right now. are you sure this isn't an issue with a security system?
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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The car ran fine yesterday and was parked under a carport. Went out this morning with this condition. I have tried both keys and the remotes (remotes work). The key/SKIM cannot lose the PIN code, especially not both keys. I do not understand why the immobilizer light is not coming on. If a key is properly programmed it comes on and goes out in 4 seconds. If it is not the correct key the light stays illuminated. (former locksmith). So the NO BUS and the Immobilizer light must be related. I assume the SKIM gets power from the ECM.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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yes, most systems are powered up by the ECM. There is still something from stopping the power feed to the ECM here though. Do you have the means to test for power in different places? (ie a 12volt test light)
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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here is the data wiring diagram of the Immobilizer, Its actually on the steering column. Are there any lose wires or anything funky with the ignition switch itself that you notice. Because the Data feed for the Immobilizer goes straight to the Body Control Module which I'm sure is powered up by the ECM. That could be the reason for no light condition.
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Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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I will open the steering column this afternoon, but there is no evident wiring issues or signs of the column being taken apart before.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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well you might want to check this auto shut down relay, it looks easy to test, it is in that fuse panel on the left inner fender. It should just feed power to Fuse # 24 and 25 with the key ON. they are both 20amp fuses. You could put a test light on them and at least know if the relay is being powered up or not.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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I checked #24 and #25 with ignition on and off, no light. I swapped with another relay to double check. I believe I found the ECM Bus and checked pink to drk blue no light. I was unable to find Security connector on the column and have ran out of daylight. I expected it to connect to the SKIM but there was no pink wire there. I now remember why I quit being a locksmith.

Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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well power to those two fuses is a problem, can check to see if you have power at fuse number fourteen near that inner fender, its a thirty amp. swapping another relay probably wont do anything at this point. The ECM grounds the shut off relay and that powers up a bunch of other circuits, so we need to see why the ECM is not powering up. The ECM also provides the ground for the Starter Relay. that is why you're not get any crank either. And when you check these fuses, make sure you either take them out and really check them or put a multi-meter across them and check for continuity.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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Forgot to add; I checked number fourteen and had power. I checked the fuse with a light continuity checker.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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okay, that is power to the auto-shut down. The problem is I'm having to look at two different wiring diagrams because they have an early production model and a later model. So there are different schematics depending on this.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:02 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Okay, we are just going to have to jump back and forth a bit. Fuse number twenty three should be Hot with Key in RUN or START. This power from the ignition switch to the ECM, Fuel pump relay and one other circuit. We may have to go by the VIN number tomorrow, so I can see exactly which model I am looking at here. It seems they changed some of the ECM harness with this production change.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Also need to figure out why number nineteen was blown, There may be a short to ground somewhere here. That fuse did not pop for no reason.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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I did a little more research here, I am thinking you may want to have a look behind these fuse panels, both, the one under the driver side dash and the one under the hood if you are up to it. They can get corroded underneath and we need to find why that fuse blew. Check for loose harness plugs under the dash as well, this can be a problem on this vehicle.

we also need to make sure the ignition switch is sending power to the ECM in RUN an START position. So to start with I am sending some diagrams of the ignition switch and what wires to check for power at certain key positions. This should not be too difficult, I am labeling everything for you.
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Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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Well we have discovered the answer but the mystery deepens. There was no fuse in number twenty three. I put a new fuse in and everything works perfectly. I was meticulous in my removal and installation of the fuses. I have no idea how or why that fuse would be missing. how would someone be so that savvy to remove it? How did the other one blow? This is insane. All I can say is thank you for your help.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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well that is extremely strange to say the least, If you did not remove it, then I do not know what happened. I just know it powers everything important. Sorry our diagnosis took so long, but that would explain why for sure. Did you get the right size fuse in there I hope? It protects the ECM on the ignition circuit, so it has to be the right amp size. Glad everything worked out good. Took a few days but we figured it out anyway.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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number twenty three fuse should be twenty amp.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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Just wondering, did you replace the alternator yourself?
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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Yes, I replaced the alternator myself. Yes I used the correct fuse. I went out of town for the weekend and when I went to start the car yesterday to just check it out and blew another fuse. Like I did before I pulled each fuse, starting with number nineteen and number twenty three. I made it to number eight which was blown this time. I replaced it and it works fine. The missing fuse has me concerned so I have just started locking my car. I usually don't because I do not want someone cutting the top. I had not problems this morning. I think it is time to retire the car.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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well if it keeps blowing fuses like that, there is something shorting out to ground or one of the fuse panels may be seriously corroded inside. Kind of strange it is just popping random fuses like that. That is why I suspect a fuse panel, maybe under the hood where it is getting some condensation in it.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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PANHANDLEMIKE
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I do not know if I have the intestinal fortitude to disassemble that. I may look at it later today to see how complicated it looks. I was thinking the same thing as I live in a saltwater environment which could add to the corrosion issue.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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yes, there has to be some power wire touching ground somewhere for fuses to be going that often. And random fuses at that. we can keep digging threw wiring diagrams and replacing fuses, but ultimately you are going to have to find some common place were these fuses are related and see whats going on. Look for exposed areas to the elements, around the battery, any fuse panels under the hood, type places. I can get you anymore wiring diagrams you may need.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)
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AL514
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once you find the problem, you probably wont have anymore issues like this for awhile at least. I lived by the ocean so I know what the salt air can do, like I am sure you know as well.
Nov 23, 2019 at 3:03 PM (Merged)