Codes P0300 and P0301, Injector problems?

Was the #1-cylinder spark plug black or wet? If so, you have a stuck fuel injector. I would do a compression test on that cylinder as well. Here is how to test the fuel injector:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Here are the engine wiring diagrams which show the fuel injectors and ignition coils, let me know what you find. Also, please go over this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automotive-engine-misfire-code-p0300-causes-and-solutions


Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

I am not sure which plug is which cylinder as my wife hired a mobile mechanic for the plugs and coil and it didn't help. The problem started immediately after we stopped and filled up her tank on a Sunday evening. I have hooked the 'bad/old coil up and the 'worst' looking plug up to bank 2 and the coil makes spark and the plug sparks still. So those weren't the issue. The PCV hose collapsed and the nipple part has oil on it as well. I'll post the plugs as she was handed by the mobile tech.

The spark plugs look okay, I think we should do a compression test on cylinder #1.

Please go over this guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

You can rent the gauge set at the auto parts store for free. Let me know how it goes.

I will have to wait until this next weekend to just buy a compression tester, plug socket, test light and multimeter. I asked my wife to stop and have the codes checked and printed and this is today's list of 'that isn't good'. Is it possible for the misfire to cause the CVT transmission essentially freak out and jerk and slam motor mounts just while using automatic and trying to just maintain the speed limit, but when driven in tap shift or 'manual' the trans operates just fine?

I will have to wait until this next weekend to just buy a compression tester, plug socket, test light and multimeter. I asked my wife to stop and have the codes checked and printed and this is today's list of 'that isn't good'. Is it possible for the misfire to cause the CVT transmission essentially freak out and jerk and slam motor mounts just while using automatic and trying to just maintain the speed limit, but when driven in tap shift or 'manual' the trans operates just fine?

Yes, when the engine is not running correctly it will make the transmission act funny. If you upload a short video of the engine cranking from under the hood I can tell if the engine is hurt or not.

I can upload that as soon as I get it put back together. I ohm tested the 1,2,3 cylinder injectors and they read 1-14.5
2-14.8
3-15.2
Spark plug from cylinder 1 was wet and now I'm trying to figure out wiring
and how to ohm test the old and new coils before I put it back together. White- power
Black - ground
Green- signal??

Here's the plug NGK Iridium LKAR-7BIX-115 that the mobile mechanic put in and today's scan after swapping coils with #2.

And a video of it starting and idling. I'm not sure what the whining sound is at the beginning? Possibly ABS system?

I do not see the video?

Hmmm let me try again.

Thanks for the video, it seems like it is running okay, did you do the compression test? If so, what is the reading? Thanks for the video, it helps.

Here's from start-up. Do I need to re learn the TB if I unplugged it when I was doing coil swap? I'm going to buy a compression tester this weekend and do all cylinders. The misfire followed when I moved the 'new replacement coil' to cyl2 and 2 to 1cyl then had codes for 1- and 2-cylinder misfires. I took the new one out and put in the original coil from 1st cylinder into 2 due to access and the idle cleaned up a bit bit cylinder 1 is still being goofy. I'm thinking of using seafoam after the compression test this weekend or possibly before, any thoughts on this?

That looks like the engine is okay, but you say if the swap the coils around it follows the bad coil? I would get a replacement coil for that one and see what happens. Also, I would rescan the car for codes, this guide can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Yes, it followed the coil as well as the cylinder 1 misfire is still present so there were two misfires until I took out the brand-new coil and put the original coil from one in. Then started the car and it definitely cleaned up the idle a bit, but it still runs like crap. Idle is up and down, lack of power until about 2,000 RPMs and then what sounds like a tick/tap when driving and only above 2k+ and only wants to drive when using manual shifting. When using automatic the engine shakes and slams like as if it only had 2 motor mounts with no accel or decel mounts. Also, this is the plug out of cylinder 2 and a 1/4 of fuel 60 miles with a can of sea foam in the talk.

It sounds like you may have a clogged catalytic converter, I would go over this guide to see if you can confirm the issue:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Here is a quick video of the sound.the high pitch rattle sound closer to the end.

the high pitch rattle can be the cat, we still need the compression test done. Thanks for the video.

I'm literally doing that right now. And on cylinder:
1 - 150 psi no oil
150 psi w/oil in the cylinder
2 - 155 psi no oil
3 - 165 psi no oil
5 - 185 psi no oil
Battery at 12.50v
Injector harness read
Cyl.1
White- 12.25v
Black- 12.25v
Green- .06 cranking max
Cyl.3
Green signal- .12 cranking

Nice work, the compression looks okay. I don't see cylinder 6 though. Is the injector on #1 getting signal? It sounds like the #1 fuel injector is bad; I would replace it but first we can run this test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Here is how to replace the fuel injector. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

I still need to test #4 and #6 compression. That was today's plans, but the day got away from me. I have used a stethoscope, and the injector clicks while running and I ohm tested the first 3 cylinders a they read.
I meant to say 'coil harness' read the next.

1 - 14.5
2 - 14.8
3 - 15.2

Weathers dependent, I will comp test the last 2 cylinder tomorrow and get that Info to you.
What are your thoughts on maybe the spark is weak? Does that happen a lot ? I also have a new intake boot on order because hers was rotted/torn.

These reading look okay, if the intake boot is torn it will not allow the MAF to give a reading to the PCM which will then shut down the injectors fyi so that might be the problem.

Did my message of cylinders 4 and 6 not load? Cylinder 4 is 150 PSI and cylinder 6 is 160 PSI. I am baffled at this point and waiting on the intake boot. I would like to clean or at least check the throttle body but I'm a bit apprehensive due to the drive by wire issue that could happen if the butterfly is moved. I have the re-learn instructions and I feel that if the battery is unhooked it should be okay, I think.

You should be okay, don't move the butterfly just clean around it, you can unbolt it and leave the wiring connected, please go over this guide to show you also, the compression seems okay so that is good.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression


Let me know what happens after you get the new air intake boot. Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Exactly how I ran the comp test aside from warm. In order to get to bank one cylinders the plenum has to be removed. Fingers crossed the boot shows up tomorrow and I will clean the throttle body gently tomorrow. Here's today's code printout. Fault means it is not working at all, correct? Happy Halloween!!

Thanks for the code sheet, yep the intake boot should help. Happy Halloween!

So I finally got the new boot put on and well nothing absolutely nothing has changed. I tried spraying carb cleaner around vacuum lines and what places I could reach with no change in idle. I have noticed when driving at a slow speed when just barley using the weight of my foot to accelerate the throttle still misses but then seems to 'clean up' and all of a sudden goes for a little but as soon as it shifts it starts again and the engine light flashes until I let off and stop (idle). Almost like a carburetor would do if timing was not quite right would. CPS comes to mind, but wouldn't that be a code as well? And where even is that on this motor? Timing side or back of the block? Is there a way to test it with a multimeter?

Even though you cleaned the MAF sensor I would replace it. When the MAF is too dirty and you try to clean it sometimes it does not work.

If memory serves me right that may have been one of the original codes along with the p0300, 301. Is there a test for the wiring with actual acceptable range on this car?

I ordered one online and should be here tomorrow.

Sounds good, let me know how the new MAF does.

So, new MAF installed and started right up and still running with a cylinder 1 misfire as well as weird idle that slightly jumps up and down. I'm sure the ECM and everything needs to learn and adjust what's going on with miles. I'm trying to make them easy mile and slowly, no trips down to the beach on the interstate I feel that would / could hurt it. In the video is a small clip of the idle doing the same thing as before.

I would check for leaks between the throttle body and MAF sensor as well. You can use carb cleaner to see if the engine reacts.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

So I went over the engine bays vacuum lines and found 3 small lines that were dry-rotting and breaking down and starting crumble in my hand and replaced. I also used most of a can spraying all gaskets that I could get to without any successful change in idle.

I remember back a while ago there wad a intermittent issue sometimes when I would press the gas pedal after backing out of a parking spot or to take off from a stop and there would be no response until I shifted to neutral and gave it a couple revs. Could this be a sign of the crank angle sensor?

That sounds more like the car is going into limp mode, check out this guide to see what I am talking about.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

I'm not sure if that's what it's doing, until I can afford a scanner that tracks data instead of just a code reader, I feel I'm SOL. Is it possible that the plugs the mobile guy put in just aren't happy in this motor? It seems far fetched durle yonit still running.

Limp mode sounds actually perfectly accurate. Now for TB cleaning can I unhook the MAF to take the intake apart while battery is still connected without starting the engine or any sensor for that matter? As far as opening the butterfly would I be able to put the ignition to the on position? (Push button on twice no brake pedal) and put the car in drive and would the TB actuator open for me to clean it?
I still can't seem to figure out the tick/tapping coming from under the vehicle that only makes noise when the engine is under a load. It won't do it while idling or revving in park it also won't throw the flashing CEL unless moving as well. Thank you and I hope these make sense.

Oh yes, the wrong spark plugs, or the gap is not set correctly it will cause this problem, I would start there and check the mechanic's work. Here is a guide to help you service the throttle body:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Recommended Spark Plugs

Type: NGK DILKAR6A-11 or equivalent Iridium spark plugs are commonly recommended for the 3.5L V6 engine in the QX60.

Spark Plug Gap
Gap: 0.044 inches (1.1 mm)

Please go over this guide and get back to us.

Okay, so the MAF can be unplugged in order to remove intake tube and box, but the throttle body harness cannot?
The plugs removed were
Denso p/n- FXE22HR11
what the guy put in were
NGK p/n- LKAR7BIX-11S
I know iridium tipped are pre gapped and I don't have my feeler gauges to even remotely check but are the replacements even in the correct heat range is a question? I'm buying a scanner tool hopefully tomorrow to gather more data. Fuel trims ect.