ignition key will not unlock - stuck?

The only thing I can think of is either the tumbler or there is a lever that goes from the tumbler to the ignition switch. Try to lube the tumbler to see if that helps. They make a special graphite grease for key cylinders. Most parts stores will have it. Try that first if not here are instructions on how to replace the ignition key tumbler in the diagrams below. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

I don't think that will fix it. I have to wait til I hear a click to be able to pull the key. It seems like a contact is not being made to unlock the key when the vehicle is shifted to park. The key is easily inserted and taken out easily with not sticking after the click.

Is it the park lock solenoid that is you hear clicking? Basically, can you shift it out of park without depressing the brake before the click is heard?

No. I can't. Someone else suggested that either something sticky got spilled on the gear shift or the the WIN is gone. At 52,000 miles I can't imagine why that would be gone bad already.

That is low mileage. Don't laugh but when this happens, pump the brakes a couple times. The park lock solenoid is actuated by the brake light switch. Something could be sticking there.

So i had a friend change a front axle and a driveshaft. it worked great for 2 days then i was driving down the road and it revved up and I coasted of the road. Then I could not put it in drive reverse or park.. i hooked up a computer and gave me code u1411.. so stressed does anyone know the problem? The code said change ignition switch. Also when it's in drive or reverse it makes whining sound and pound clunk or clicking sound.

In park it clunks..

Can you get a recording of this noise? Does it sound like it is coming from the front?

Also, just confirm what 4WD system you have. Do you have full time 4 wheel drive? If so, I suspect your friend may have not connected something completely.

Let's start with this info and a recording if possible. Thanks

Hi,

The code is related to a fuel delivery issue, so that doesn't have anything to do with what you described.

When you say you can't place it in park, I need to know if you mean the shifter or when it is placed in park if the vehicle continues to roll as if it isn't in park. Also, if that is the case, I suspect the axle that was installed is lose and no longer attached. Was it a front or rear axle?

Let me know.
Joe

Front left axle.. 4 wheel drive automatic locks in no button I'm guessing and when it's in park I have to put emergency brake so it doesn't roll. it does not sound like it locks in to park like it normally would.

Also the front driveshaft spins left and right, but I don't think the rear does but I'm really not sure about the rear.

Video.

Jeff, is that clicking inside or outside the vehicle? If it's outside, see if the newly installed axle is turning with the vehicle staying in place.

I have a feeling the axle isn't fully engaged.

Jeff?

Sorry, I have no idea why I said Jeff. Likely, I saw Jeep in your user name and thought it was Jeff. Have you made any progress?

Joe

I recently had my ignition switch on my vehicle replaced as a part of a recall. A few days ago my car would turn over and then shut off almost immediately (which happened a few times before it just stopped turning over at all). I had it towed to the dealership and they tried resetting my keys with no luck. Now they are saying they need to replace the SKI module, but that it is not covered under the warranty from the other fix a few months ago. although, after a lot of research they seem to be related so I am thinking that it should be covered or at least partially covered?

That is a touching subject. what all did they do in the recall just the switch? Then it was successfully repaired at that point. If the system failed after then it did just that. Tough to take i hear you, but unfortunately it happens.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Is there a way to get a pre-programmed key and ignition set, if that is a thing? A way to buy a replacement for the whole thing so it will not require a trip to an actual shop, just a home mechanic to fix?

Yes and no. Yes in that you can buy the key and cylinder so the key will turn the cylinder. And no in that the key is not the real issue. The BCMs security system has to be programmed to read whichever key you have, that is not something that the average DIYer can do.

Starting with the earliest system VATS with the resistor pellet - The key cut itself just allows the cylinder to rotate. The pellet in the key creates a specific voltage drop that tells the SKIM that "yep this is the correct key, go ahead and turn on the fuel and ignition"

The earlier transponder systems use a piece in the key that is very similar to the security tags in stores, The key goes into the ignition and the SKIM sends out pulses to read that security tag. If it matches the information the module has stored, the ECM receives a unique coded string of pulses that tells it that you have the correct key and it can start.

The current systems are even more elaborate. They use both passive and active coding in the fobs. This is what allows you to have the push button start and remote operations.

These systems also allow for different key coding in the security. So you could have one key that allows everything in the car to operate and sets the various items to that persons preferences, another as a valet key that only allows specific items to operate and even something like a teenager key, that restricts the power output and drive times and activates the navigation to record where the vehicle goes.

All of them require the SKIM/BCM to be programmed to the particular key(s) used.

Both ignition keys can be inserted completely so that the chimes sound as usual but neither key will turn to any degree. Tried the usual turning the steering wheel left and right and get about 15 degrees of wheel rotation but does not change the key rotation
problem.

try tapping the key with a small hammer or the handle of a screw driver after it's in the lock. There are 4 things that I see over and over again, that keep an ignition lock cylinder from turning. 1. The steering wheel lock is under pressure. When you turn off your car and remove your key. A spring loaded post sticks up in to one of many holes in the steering wheel. This locks the steering wheel in place, making your car harder to steal, because a bad guy cant turn the steering wheel if they somehow get your car started without the key. But this can also keep you from turning the ignition lock. If the steering wheel is under pressure because your front wheels are against a curb, or you have the wheel cranked all the way to one side or the other. The pressure from the steering wheel on the spring loaded post keeps you from being able to turn the key. So while trying to pull the steering wheel one direction or the other, try to turn the key, this may solve your problem. 2-A. The pins are not falling into place. You kinda need to know how a lock works for this part. Look at a key and you will see there are different depth cuts in it. Those different cuts correspond with different length pins in the lock cylinder. See how the red pins are of different length? But with the key inserted, they are all even with the blue pins.

When the red pins are held in the correct position by the correct key, the spring loaded blue pins are flush with the outer housing of the lock, and the red pins are flush with the inner cylinder of the lock And thus the inner cylinder can be rotated.

If debris such as pocket lint, ear wax, or just plain old dirt gets into the pins and causes enough friction for the spring loaded blue pins to not be able to push the red pins back in place. Then the red pins will be partially stuck in the hole for the blue pins and the cylinder can not turn. Putting the key in the lock and then tapping on it with a small hammer may help until you have the chance to have the lock cleaned. Do a search for the word "bump key" if you want to know more about how a lock cylinder works. 2-B. The same goes for if a key is worn out. If a key is badly worn, then it will not put the red pins in the correct spot and some of the pins will keep the cylinder from turning. If your key is worn out, try a spare if you have one. Or put the key in and "Jiggle" it while trying to turn the lock. 3. A problem with the interlock cable from the gear selector to the lock cylinder. Make sure you are completely in park. You pretty much have to take things apart and visually inspect it to verify this problem. 4. A mechanical problem with the linkage from the lock cylinder to the electrical part of the ignition switch.

Key will not go all the way into ignition.

Hello,

It sounds like something could be stuck in the lock. Use a flashlight to check for an obstruction if okay then use WD40 or equivalent to lube the lock. If that does not work then the tumbler will need to be replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-bag-removal-steering-wheel

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/steering-wheel-clock-spring-removal

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/steering-wheel-removal

Here are some diagrams to help you get the job done. your car will need a steering wheel puller which you can rent at the auto parts store for free.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken