Ignition key lock tumbler replacement

He must be a lucky locksmith. I suspect the problem is that the actuator on the tip of the lock cylinder has broken off. It's the pin with two ears on it that you see in the picture. The stem is usually pot metal and after repeated use they crack and the clock starts ticking until they snap and fail. Actually a common issue with that design. Replacement is the same as replacing the complete cylinder except you need some long thin pliers to reach in and fish out the broken actuator piece that will be stuck in the ignition switch actuator cam in the bottom of the cylinder cavity.
Removal to determine if that is the problem is simple, disconnect the negative battery cable and wait a minute, now look under the steering column plastic shields and you will find the hole marked 2 in the image. Use a small rod or even a pen to reach in there and you will find a button. Turn the key to the run position and press that button in, the key and cylinder should just pull right out now. With it out look at that piece, is it there? If no then that is the issue, if it is there then it may be the cam itself that broke but that isn't very common as it is steel.
If it's broken off, fish out the broken piece. You should be able to get a replacement that will slide in. Take it to the locksmith with the old one and they should be able to use the two to make you a good part that uses your original keys.

The locksmith and I compared the old and new cylinders. They were exactly the same. He said there was something broken further down in the steering column. I get no resistance at all when I turn the key.

Okay, then next likely is the plastic actuator. That piece on the cylinder rotates a gear in the back of the hole and that moves a rack which in turn pushes the actual switch to the various positions. If you turn the key back and remove it does the steering wheel lock work? There are two different columns used, one for column shift and one for floor shift. There are three pieces that move below the gear in each version, just the locations are different. One is the plastic piece in the first picture, the other is a larger piece of plastic and finally the switch itself. I have heard of the plastic actuator breaking in the earlier Fords and repaired a few, however they had supposedly made a better part around 2002. To see if it is that piece that failed requires that the ignition switch be removed so you can watch the lower piece of the actuator move. This also lets you check the switch itself for problems. The parts are the highlighted ones in the third image. To access them you need to remove the panel below the steering column. There are two screws at the edge of the panel that come out then the panel will release prom the upper guides. With it off there is a reinforcement brace that comes off, the switch will be below that. With the switch out of the way you will be able to see the pin on it that connects to the actuator in the column. If you rotate the key that piece in the column should move both directions. I hope yours does and the pin that is on the switch is what failed. Replacing the actuator in the column is a lot more work as the column has to be removed and just about stripped to get to the interior parts and requires a couple odd tools to do.

i need a diagram of how to replace an ignition switch?

Hello my name is Dave.

I'm unclear if you are referring to the electrical switch or the key switch so I will cover both. As far as the electrical switch there are 2 versions for that year, early and late. I have included diagrams/instructions for both. I hope this helps you resolve your issue and if you need any more help please feel free to let us know and thank you for using 2CarPros!

2 days of internet searching indicates that this "actuator" is a $2 plastic part that connects the key lock to the ignition switch but I can't find it. I have found both the Key Lock Cylinder and the Ignition Switch on 8 sites but none mention this ACTUATOR or if it is included with the lock or the switch. "Actuator" is probably not a correct part name (even though repair forums are using this name) because it doesn't have matches associated with ignition switches or locks on any of the autoparts website search engines. It isn't even shown in the AutoZone exploded view of the entire mechanism. Forums say that this $2 actuator breaking is a common problem that cost about $300 to replace because the steering wheel and column must be removed. I'm 500 miles away from my tools but have managed to remove the lock and drop the steering column down. I don't yet understand why the steering wheel has to be removed but then I'm only half way into the job. If this "actuator" is the same part that is called "lock actuator" that's mated to the base of the key lock cylinder (but a separate part) then that may be the part I'm looking for? Please note: I tried to upload a 36K JPG drawing of the "lock actuator" within the key lock housing but when I clicked on your button "Upload and insert a picture" I got a separate window with an error message that stated "error" and that I was not logged in. At the top of this page it shows that I am logged in. Then I clicked "Submit" and it took me to a login window. This means that I was logged out (probably timed out) and that status change wasn't updated at the top of this window. Please inform your webmaster of this problem. Thanks. Questions: 1. Does this "actuator" part exist? 2. Is it available separately and from where? 3. Is it included with the lock or the ignition switch? 4. Is there now an improved quality actuator? Thanks guys! IG

PS. I just looked and the drawing above doesn't match what I'm working on (95 Taurus SE) - my ignition switch is NOT above the key lock cylinder as shown above. This drawing may be for a 93 Taurus?

My car won't shut off and I thought I had to replace the ignition switch (95 Taurus SE 3.0). The replacement didn't fix the problem. I can start without a problem but turning the key off won't shut down the engine. Are you having the same problem?

The ignition is locked and won't turn. The key wont go in all the way. Had removed by turning key on and pressing pins. Now the ignition is locked and won't turn on. Need another way to pull ignition out to change to a new ignition? I am getting a new key and ignition so I need to remove the old one?

You will have to drill out the old cylinder carefully to access the lock pin to remove the cylinder assembly. other wise, if you damage it more the housing must be replaced.

Roy