When ignition is on or start position; no click, no sound at all except buzzer for key?

It sounds like you have a bad connection at the battery, or the battery is dead. Here are three guides to help figure out what's going on:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

This guide may help as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please go over these guides and report back.

Ken, I went and got a new battery and changed the terminals and it's all good now sorry about that. All gauges light up but still no crank no start no clicking nothing.

Okay, let's use a test light at the starter trigger wire to see if there is power when the key is in the crank position. Please go over this guide to see:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Please go over this guide and report back.

When the key is in the crank position I have no power to the trigger wire.

Okay, see if the engine will start in neutral. here is the starter system wiring diagram so you can use a test light to see where you lose power.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.

Hello Ken, I put it in neutral and no crank, no start. I have pulled and checked the fuses, and none are burnt but I have not checked both ends of the individual fuses in the box with the test light, yet I should get to it today. Looking over the wiring diagram I located the neutral safety switch and will check that also. I have an automatic transmission, so I won't have a clutch interlock switch on my truck, is that correct? Also, in the engine compartment fuse box none of the fuses are labeled with letters just numbers so #10 a 20-amp yellow maxi fuse which is to the starter relay coil instrument panel fuse is this Fuse J listed on the diagram. Lastly the starter relay (behind battery) isn't that the relay with two larger posts and a small post where one of the larger posts has a large red cable from the battery to the relay to the starter itself then the smaller post from the relay to the starter is the small trigger wire I checked yesterday, am I making sense to you. (I also have a 1989 F250 that did not crank, and that relay was bad but if I took a large screwdriver and arced the two larger posts together with the ignition in the on position the motor would start). I hope I am explaining this correctly, I want to take some pictures but my phone isn't connecting to my computer and I can't get the pictures downloaded from my phone to the PC to send to you, but I found my camera and I can use it to download pictures so I can send you photos if that helps. Thanks again for your patience, knowledge and time, my local mechanic retired last year but I am eager to learn all this with your help Ken. Talk to you soon. Thanks again.

Ken, I took off the plug to the neutral safety switch I made a jumper wire and jumped the white and pink wire from the ignition to the light blue and red wire going to the starter and the motor cranked over.

Okay, can you test the yellow wire coming from the ignition switch to see if it has power in the crank position? Please let me know.

Are you checking if the ignition switch is bad because the outer part of the ignition switch on the Column spins it won't start without the key, but it does affect the buzzer.

Where is the easiest place to locate the yellow wire from the ignition? because I am checking a yellow wire from the column under the ignition and the test light is on with the key out. I am not sure I am testing the right wire it is a solid yellow.

I installed a new ignition switch.

Did that fix it?

No, I plugged the old neutral safety switch back in and nothing. But Ken when I made that jumper wire to bypass the neutral safety switch that's just what I did I jumped the ignition wire direct to the starter solenoid, in that plug to the NS switch so when I did that the motor cranked over so doesn't that mean the neutral safety switch is bad? I bought a new NS switch and was going to change it but was waiting for your okay, I thought that probably was my problem.

I also changed the oil and filter in the motor and as soon as I get it running, I will flush the coolant. I purchased this truck new, and it only has 111,888 original miles on it right before it sat another father on my son's little league team, I was talking to him. He worked for an automotive shop and even wore a Mr. Goodwrench shirt (false advertising). I knew the shop he worked at and my heater core started leaking, so, he said he could work on it on the weekend. Well, the heater core was removed and never finished. He burned me on that job then moved to Idaho so that's my next project. then I have a two-ton hoist on the flatbed I also have to fix. I am a monumental stonecutter by trade for 40 years this year. I almost lost my right leg and had to close my shop, but I saved my leg after the doc told me I would lose it. Now I want to reopen my shop and people still come around and want my services. Anyway, I just wanted to give you the history of this old Ford. I appreciate you taking the time to help myself and others nothing but good health and fortune back your way. Thanks Ken.

I hope you get the shop up and running good guys always stay busy. Can you track the buzzing to the relay? it could have a bad ground. The starter relay is near the battery. Let me know.

Ken, the buzzing is the warning signal the truck has when you turn the key to the on position but there is something not right. There is a clip with a black wire connected to it coming from the steering column, on top of the clip it has black plastic that looks like it pops in to where it holds the clip in place and I am not sure where it goes but the wire is only long enough to go around the outer cylinder area can you tell me where that clip should be if I clip it to the outer cylinder of the switch the warning buzzer goes off when I open the door with no key in it, then when I remove the clip the warning buzzer will not go on when the key is in the ignition on the off position. I can't see where that clip should go but it does not seem to clip to the ignition switch, but it goes someplace nearby.

Before I contacted you that relay behind the battery that is the relay with two larger threaded posts on the bottom where one post toward the cab has a larger red cable coming directly from the battery with two smaller wires connected with it to that post. The other larger post has a smaller red cable also coming directly from the battery and those two red wires from the battery is in a harness to fit directly for the two posts on the relay. The third smaller threaded post above the two larger ones has a capped wire that goes on that smaller post. I removed that relay and tested it by using my jumper cables and attached the negative jumper to the metal frame of the relay where it bolts to the side fender and with the positive jumper I hit the smaller threaded post of the relay and I could hear the relay engage and disengage when I hit the post to make sure that relay was working. Then when I put the relay back, I greased the posts with dielectric grease to lubricate the threads. That relay was not making any buzzing noise it seemed to be fine.

Can you please upload images of what you are talking about?

This is the wire on the steering column.

That is for the key left in the ignition when the door is open warning sensor.

Is that wire necessary or can I just leave it disconnected?

You can leave it disconnected but the key warning will not work.

Okay, so what's next the relay behind the battery?

Can you upload an image please?

This is the relay behind the battery, correct?

Yes, that is the starter solenoid.

What is the next step to check?

Here is a guide to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

When I checked the starter solenoid the small wire while cranking there was no signal test light did not go on. I checked the large wire on the starter from the battery and I had voltage to the starter.

I need to check that solenoid of the picture I sent you, right?

I already took that solenoid off took jumper cables hooked negative to frame of solenoid positive to the small post on top of the solenoid and I can hear it open and close, but I did not check the amps with a meter.

If you hear the solenoid working check the power to the starter when in the crank position and if there is none replace the solenoid. Please referrer back to the previous page.

Ken, there was a wire next to the coil that connects to some ceramic resistor that's bolted to the frame. the wire comes out of that plug and if you look directly under the red wire you can see where the wire is the wire looks like it may of gotten hot if that's possible what is that wire for a ground.

Ken, I found the problem, it is the neutral safety switch, so I am going to change it now. I unplugged the harness coming from the ignition going to the neutral safety switch put the key in crank position and got 12v at te plug, then I plugged it back in went to the relay switch by the battery nothing so I took the new neutral safety switch and plugged it in went up to the relay and now I have 12v so I am changing the switch now and get back to you.

Let me know about that small wire by the coil what that is going too. Thanks

The small wire goes to a noise suppressor for the radio. Let me know if the neutral safety switch fixes it.

Ken, I sent a response, but it didn't log here so I am writing it again. I put about a gallon less than two of gas and tried to start it and it cranks fine as normal and I had the front end jacked up about a foot or so and I let the jack down so the truck was level now my ignition is frozen can't move the key forward or backward so I go jack up the front end again and the key is free again. so, what did I do wrong?

Ken, I went back out jacked it back up put the truck in neutral put it down and now it's working fine but now the starter is acting up looks like the solenoid on the starter is intermittently failing the motor turns on the starter but the solenoid is responsible to push that Bendix out sounds like that's the issue.

Thanks for letting us know, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Ken, thanks.