Coolant leak?

pressure check coolant system to find leak it may be head gasket or a bad radiator as well.

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-is-leaking-coolant

Please run down this guide and report back.

Every time after a distance, I notice a leak from under the car more to the side of the front passenger when looking at the top of the motor there is no sign of water on top. Can you please tell me where could this leak be from, is it the water pump. Is there any I can check and find out for sure if the water pump is going up. I'm a widow and have put so much money into this car, can't afford a car payment so trying hard to hold to this car, please help

That is where the water pump is located. Under the pump (behind the pulley) there is a weep hole. It is a small round hole. if the bearing is going bad in the pump, that is where it will leak from. Also, you can get a cooling system tester which is nothing more than a pump. It pressurizes the cooling system so it is easier to find leaks. Most parts stores will lend that to you.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

thanks so much, did find out that I had the ac on, on the way home from work. And that's when I seen it leaking. Forgot I had it on. Noticed it this morning when starting the car felt the cool air. But today I drove home with no ac and have checked 4 times in the last hour after parking from the drive home and no leak. Not sure what that means. My husband use to take care of the cars and now with him gone I'm lost. I do want to thank you so much for helping me, maybe you can reply on this comment. Still going to get that tool you talked and try to figure out how to do the testing before running to a mechanic. Had a lot of car problems lately and ran for help from mechanics and put a lot of money in repairs some I'm wondering if I really need it, or was I a victim. So that is why I want to be sure it's the water pump or not, the cheapest price for repair on the water pump is $900.00 can you tell me if that's sound.

Hi:

If you don't see water now, maybe it was just the AC condensation. Usually, when a pump leaks, it doesn't stop.

As far as the price, that seems really high, but I don't know where you live. I would recommend that you make sure the coolant is actually leaking before spending that much money.

If you see a leak again, rub your finger in it and then rub that into another finger. If it is only water, it will dry quickly. If it is coolant, it will be slippery and not evaporate.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

thanks for the great advice, I live in Reisterstown MD not sure if that helps but good to know about the pricing. And I know for sure it is water had the thermostat housing leak and know what coolant leak feels like, this did dry up right away, thanks again will keep in touch

Also want to say thanks I now know where I can turn to for questions on my car, it's a big help

Hello...2004 Sebring LXi 2.7L V6. Water pump was replaced approx 1 year ago. I have a leak and the only place I can see coolant coming from is out of what looks like a weep hole right next to the bottom thermostat housing bolt...I'm thinking water pump again.. Cooling system doesn't seem to be circulating properly...Heater does not blow hot...Replaced thermostat...My question is this..How difficult is it to replace the water pump? I'm a shadetree mechanic..Know my way around an engine alright..First time it was replaced my Dad's good friend who is a master mechanic did it...He has moved away since...I would like to do it myself...I enjoy working under the hood...Thank you for any help you may be able to provide...

WATER PUMP REMOVAL- 2.7L

NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the primary weep hole (black stain at weep passage). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). This indicates a shaft seal failure and pump must be replaced. Coolant may leak from the secondary weep passage and fill the valley of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump. WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND PRESSURIZED. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN RESULT. 1.Disconnect negative battery cable. 2.Drain cooling system. NOTE: The water pump is driven by the primary timing chain. 3.Remove the timing chain cover, timing chain, and all chain guides.

4.Remove bolts attaching water pump to block (Fig. 38). 5.Remove water pump and gasket. CLEANING Clean gasket mating surfaces as necessary. INSPECTION - 2.7L Inspect and replace the water pump if it has any of the following defects: 1.Damage or cracks on the pump body. 2.Coolant leaks: If the shaft seal is leaking, this will be evident by traces of thick deposits of dried glycol running down from the pump primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). A thin black stain below the pump primary weep hole/passage is considered normal operation. 3.Coolant leaks: If the pump primary weep passage is plugged, coolant may come from the secondary weep passage and collect in the valley of the engine. The coolant will eventually run out the back side of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). Leakage from the secondary weep passage may give false indications that core plug(s) may be leaking on the back side of the engine block. If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. 4.Impeller rubs inside of cylinder block. 5.Excessively loose or rough turning bearing. NOTE: It is normal for the water pump to weep a small amount of coolant from the primary weep hole (black stain at weep passage). Do not replace the water pump if this condition exists. Replace the water pump if a heavy deposit or a steady flow of engine coolant is evident from the primary weep passage (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 40). This indicates a shaft seal failure and pump must be replaced. Coolant may leak from the secondary weep passage and fill the valley of the engine (Fig. 39) and (Fig. 41). If this condition is found, clean the primary weep passage of debris. Be sure to perform a thorough analysis before replacing water pump. INSTALLATION - 2.7L 1.Clean all sealing surfaces. 2.Install water pump and gasket. Tighten mounting bolts to 12 Nm (105 inch lbs.). 3.Install timing chain guides, timing chain, and timing chain cover. 4.Reconnect negative battery cable. 5.Fill cooling system. https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm

We are not too far apart. I am near Pittsburgh. Regardless, I happy to have helped you. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

I have a 2004 chrysler sebring that was leaking water from the water pump weeping line my mechanic replace the pump but still leaks from the same place can u tell me what is wrong with it please

I am having the same issue. Replaced the water pump twice within 2 weeks just put it back together a 2nd time and still leaking out of that weep hole at the lower thermostat. Were you able to resolve your issue? I am at a loss

This is a common problem with more inexpensive pumps, what brand are you using?

will a compresion test on radiator system tell exactly where rhe leak is and tell if water pump is pumping enough water?

What's the problem here? Overheating! You cannot do a compression test on the radiator-but a cooling system pressure tester will-

A cooling system pressure test will help locate any external coolant leak, do you have coolant loss problems?

the pressure test passed. no im not loosing fluid. the shop said all is fine except it still reaches boiling temps. they said try replacing radiator. last year i did the chemical dip and was told that was not the problem. Any other ideas

the heater core is out on my car and the radiator fluid is also leaking out of the tube under the intake manifold (i think I said that right). Does anyone know what size 0 rings I need to get for a 1999 chrysler sebring lxi 2.5 L v6?

No sure of the size, but a bit of advice, get them from the dealer if possible. Getting them elsewhere gets a bit shaky.

For instance, if those O-rings have caused enough problems on enough vehicles, then a parts store might carry them OR if you take the O-ring into the parts store they may have one which fits "pretty close" (you won't know until you've installed it and crossing your fingers hoping it doesn't leak, actually works). So to avoid all this...dealership! It not very expensive, about $2 here. Hopefully the same or less where you are.

Thank you for your help.

You're welcome SKsilver,

Please post the results of your repairs here, for future reference.

Thanks.

We finally found the right o-rings (ever place calls them something different) at O'reilly's after checking all the parts store in town, but they won't be in until morning. So I'll let you all know what happens after they get them put on tomorrow. Thanks for your help.