My engine keeps stalling while driving?

The first thing is to not remove a battery cable with the engine running. That was a "test" done many years ago by uneducated mechanics who did not understand how these simple systems worked. Those cars had breaker point ignition systems and no computers to destroy. It will not be long before you are smarter than they ever were.
lets check out this guide to see if we can fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Let me know what you find for test results.

First of all. Before I bought the first alternator I removed the battery cables while started. I did not remove them since my last two new alternators. So yes I understand if I messed the charging system up after removing the cables on my old alternator. The bad one. After that I bought a new one. I did not remove the cables then. A few days later my first battery had a dead cell. I went and bought a new battery. Then a few days later that battery went bad. So I got another one under warranty and a few days later the car went dead again. So I pulled the new alternator out and got it tested and it was bad so I replaced the new alternator with another one under warranty and this time every light inside my car did not work. Not did the radio. Before I replaced the last alternator it did work. But now it does not. So after I start the car and let it run a couple minutes then it slowly looses power. When I rev up the engine then it does not rev to its fullest potential. Instead it sputters out like it is about to shut off. When I turn the headlights on then it shuts off. The battery is fully charged and the alternator is brand new. I did not unhook the cables while the car was running except when I replaced the first alternator. Before the last two I had.

Sounds like you hit every piece of bad luck out there. We do run into defective rebuilt generators every once in a while, but you got a lifetime supply already. Before you get all wrapped around the axle looking for an elusive cause, start by suspecting multiple blown fuses. That happens real commonly when reconnecting the battery, from the current surges, and with all you have gone through already, the battery has been reconnected multiple times. If you find a blown fuse, just replace it. Do not obsess over what could be wrong in that circuit. Most likely nothing is wrong.

The next step is to do the full-load output current test. That will tell us what your generator is capable of developing, and the ripple voltage. If output current is close to your generator's maximum rating, and ripple voltage is low, the generator is okay and we need to look at other potential causes.

hi i have a 1995 nissan sentra gle with a 1-6 ..car starts and runs great ..but you can only drive about 20 miles ..the car then dies ..if you let it sit for a half hour or so ..it will go another 20 miles ..i have changed the plugs and cap and rotor ..i this really baffels me

When it stalled and could not be started, you need to find out what is missing.

Check out the following link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

thankyou the only thing i have not tried is disconecting the sencors and disconecting the exaust ..when the rain stops i will give it a shot

well i disconnected the exhaust and one sensor at a time ..still did not help ..i bought a new distributor ..and still the same problem .car ran great at a idle for 20 minutes than died ...any other ideas still no check engine light

When it could not start, did you find out what is missing?

just tested all the sensors ..all came up good ..i am starting to think the new distributor could have fried ..why am i going through distributors ..compression is 150 all cylinders .55 lbs fuel pressure spark in all cylinders and all the sensors test good ,,car is running worst idels rough at 200 rpm for about a minute than dies ..

Did you test if it is spark that is missing or is it fuel that was not present when it could not start?

car quit on me for only time since bought. killed battey trying to restart. towed home. charged battery and tried again. it started and idled but touch the gas and it coughs/dies immediately! fuel comes out sttrong from filter. obviously has spark if idles. tried spraying/adding extra gas still stalls. weird! any ideas?

check the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve

[quote:a98fac9b9e="legitimate007"]check the throttle position sensor and idle air control valve[/quote:a98fac9b9e]

not likely. symptoms dont indicate a problem in those parts in my experience. thanks

obviously has something to do with an intermittant spark foul. check cam sensor , crank/hall effect sensor

This car is running very well, now. I have recently had new spark plugs put in, changed the air filter, new ECT. And as I said, starts easily and runs very well until it's completely warmed up.

At that point, still running well, the car stalls at stops. Take my foot off the gas, brake put in the clutch and the engine has stopped. Starts right back up as soon as I turn the ignition.

I am trying to anticipate what this might be. I have so little time and funds available. Took it to one shop and according to mechanic there the IAC, MAF, throttle position sensor are all working well. I do not know if he checked the EGR valve. He thought the valves might be out of adjustment, which he says he doesn't do.

I talked to the new shop who said if it was the valves, it would be making all kinds of noises which is not happening. So, I'm having him look at it on Thursday, but in the meantime, I'm truly jumpy. Any thoughts you might have on what I can anticipate as to what's happening?

Hi and thank you for using 2CaPros. Lets see what we can do.

It all sounds on track, the only recommendation I would add that it may be is loss of fuel pressure. I would test that. If it is low fuel pressure it could be a weak fuel pump, a bad fuel regulator or a plugged fuel filter.
It could also be a bad ignition module or coil. These are know for going into thermal runaway when they start to fail. When they get hot they build up internal resistance and the voltage drops.
I would check those as well. Good luck and let us know how things turn out. Feel free to come back if you have anymore questions.

Rich

Hey Rich. This has been such a journey and not in a good way. I have not had a chance to follow up on your suggestions (though they sound reasonable) because the shops I've gone to seem to be out of their depth. Long story there but a car this old (and decrepit-looking) seems to really throw them.

Here's a second question before I go to Plan B. what about the spark plug wires? I did not have those replaced when I got new spark plugs. I don't think they've ever been replaced. Would faulty wires cause the kind of problems I've been seeing? What do you think?

I should say, you guys are the most responsive of anyone I've had the opportunity to contact, so thanks in advance.

Norene

Yes it could also be thermal runaway with plug wires. The resistance increases over time with plug wires and heat also effects that so if they have never been changed they could be high resistance and when they get hot it goes even higher to the point of weak spark. This is why you have to change them at all. Even if it doesn't cure it I would suggest replacing them though it may fix it. That your issue start when it warms up tells me something is likely going thermal.

Rich.

When I start my 1993 Nissan Sentra it dies within a few seconds. First I can ramp up the rpm with the gas pedal, while hitting the clutch, but within a few seconds the car dies despite hitting the gas pedal, rpms go continuously down until the car dies. After it has died the dashboard shows the typical signs (lit check engine light, battery, ...) that would light up before I would start the car. The car is currently parked on a steep uphill slope, thus getting away from there will be tricky without the engine ... I have tried the starting procedure about 8 times, always with the same result. The gasoline was low so I checked that and filled 1 gal. into the tank (that's not it, unfortunately). The car has ~ 163000 miles and has been running really well in the past. I have notice higher fuel consumption lately (320 miles per tank vs. usually 400), but it coincided with the hot weather (and my use of the a/c), so I did not think it had anything to do with it.

I agree with the poor fuel mileage being the result of the AC. As far as the no start, I feel it has to do with the amount of fuel in the tank. If you are on a steep hill, the fuel pump may not be able to get the fuel even though you put a gallon in it. What I want you to do is see if the car will start with starting fluid. If it runs for a couple seconds, then fuel is the issue. It is most likely what I said, too low in the tank. However, it could be a bad fuel pump. Try what I said and let me know what you find.

Thanks for your comment, the 1 gal. was in fact enough but it took the night to trickle into the right places. In the morning it started without a problem and stayed on. Thanks for reaffirming that it was just related to the steep slope and the low gas.

Glad to help. Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

I have a 1993 Nissan Sentra 1.6l E with 187000 miles on it and it has developed a problem when it warms up. The car will stall out when I accelerate. i will then have to sit on the side of the road for a couple on minutes then it will start. I can limp along up to speeds of up to 35~40 MPH, but if i push it, it will stall out again. After serveral re-starts, it wont start again utill it cools down. Once cool, it runs fine.
I have replaced all of the ignition components, Checked fuel pressure, and filter. I do have a loud muffler that will need replacing soon. Should i check the TPS or is it failing due to the loss of back bressure from the muffler?

Any ideas would be appriciated

Sounds like a fuel pump going bad on it. I think you acess it from under the rear seat. Once you pull it out you may find a bad electrical connection or ground that may solve it before you replace the pump. Get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure when the car is unable to start. IF it isn't in spec, then you know the rest!

I started having problems with the power; I need to constantly downshift, and even then it's sluggish. Engine idles rough at stoplights, and sometimes stalls on turns. Starts right back up after stalling, though.

have you kept up with tune ups? try some of the following, number 7 is not it Engine lacks power... See one of the following: 1.) Incorrect ignition timing. 2) Fuel filter clogged and/of impurities in fuel 3) Faulty or incorrect gapped spark plugs. 4) Air filter dirty. 5) Spark timing control system not working properly. 6) Faulty ignition coil(s) 7) Brakes binding. 8) Auto Trans fluid not correct 9) faulty distributor cap or wires 10) EGR system not functioning properly. 11) Use of sub standard fuel. 12) Low or uneven cylinder compression pressures 13) Air vacuum leak at intake manifold or plenum

Only when car is idling and I attempt to press gas pedal car shuts off

Welcome to 2CarPros.

If it stalls when you press the gas, I have a feeling the fuel pump isn't producing enough pressure. Is the check engine light staying on when the engine is running?

If the light isn't staying on, I recommend starting with fuel pressure. Here is a link that explains in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The specs are in the directions and the pictures correlate with the directions. Note: I realize most people don't own a fuel pressure gauge. However, most parts stores will lend or rent one to you.

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FUEL PRESSURE TEST
Fuel Pump Fuse

Pic 1



NOTE: To obtain an accurate fuel pressure reading the engine must by running. Basic fuel pump operation can be verified in a no start condition by observing gauge reading while cranking engine. Fuel pressure should be approximately 43 psi (294 kPa).

1. Remove fuel pump fuse from underdash fuse box.
2. Start engine.
3. When engine stalls, crank or attempt to restart engine 2 or 3 times to release pressure.
4. Turn ignition switch off and reinstall fuel pump fuse.

NOTE: Steps 1 through 4 are provided to release fuel system pressure to eliminate fuel spray.

Fuel Pressure Gauge Connection

Pic 2



5. Disconnect fuel line from fuel filter and connect a suitable pressure gauge as shown.
6. Disconnect and plug vacuum line from fuel pressure regulator. Connect vacuum pump to pressure regulator.
7. Start engine and idle.
8. Fuel pressure should be approx. 43 psi (294 kPa). If pressure is correct proceed to step 10, if not OK continue.
9. Using pliers, gently pinch fuel return line at fuel rail. If fuel pressure rises to approx. 43 psi (294 kPa) pressure regulator is defective. If pressure still is low or did not change, check fuel filter before replacing pump.
10. Slowly apply vacuum to the pressure regulator while watching fuel pressure.
11. Fuel pressure should decrease as vacuum increases, down to approx. 33 psi (226 kPa) at 20 in.Hg.
12. If fuel pressure does not respond to the application of vacuum, check fuel return line for restriction prior to replacing fuel pressure regulator.

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If you find the fuel pump is bad, here are the directions for replacement.

PROCEDURES

CAUTION: Do not perform these procedures while smoking, near any open flame, electrical contacts or other potential source of ignition.

Fuel Pump Fuse Location


Pic 3


1. Release fuel pressure:
A. Remove fuse for fuel pump.
B. Start engine.
C. After engine stops, crank engine two or three times to make sure that fuel pressure is released.
D. Turn ignition switch off and install fuse for fuel pump.

2. Remove rear seat bottom and back cushion.

Fuel Pump Access Cover

Pic 4



3. Remove Inspection hole cover.

CAUTION: Use rubber gloves to prevent fuel from contacting the skin when removing the fuel hoses and pump.

4. Disconnect electrical connector and fuel hoses.
5. Remove the six screws.

Gauge/Pump Assembly Removal

pic 5



TECH TIP: The sheet metal for the top of the fuel tank is REALLY SHARP! One way to protect yourself is to take some door edge moulding and apply it to the lip of the tank opening. Vacuum hose sliced lengthwise will work too.


6. Remove fuel gauge sending unit and disconnect the fuel hoses and connector.

Fuel Pump Removal

pic 6



7. Remove fuel pump from fuel pump bracket by pinching the tab and lifting the pump out of fuel tank bracket.
8. Installation procedure is the reverse order of removal noting the following:

^ Always replace fuel tank O-ring with a new one.
^ Verify the two hoses to the plastic cover plate are installed correctly. The engine won't run if the hoses are reversed.
^ Tighten screws to specified torque 2.4-3.1 ft.lbs.
^ After installation, run engine and check for leaks at connections. Also verify the fuel gauge works.


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Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe