Transmission not shifting?

It sounds like the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is bad here is the location so you can change it out. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

This was great, I got a new sensor fix it!

About 2mths ago my car would jerk while driving after jerking if you can to a stop it would accelerate slow and not change gears .ny alternator went out so we had it replaced it drove fine. The other day my alternator belt broke. A few days before that it started jerking agian. Replaced the belt and it is still jerking and accelerating slow .thanks so much

Sounds like you need to change the spark plugs. please follow this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-spark-plugs

let us know what happens so we can help more if needed

When it won't accelerate, put it in neutral and rap the throttle, if the engine revs up fine it sounds like you have a transmission problem. Make sure your alternator is charging by testing the voltage at the battery with the engine running, it should be around 14.5 volts.

Thank you so much

You are welcome, please use 2Carpros.com again and tell a friend.

when I started my car, I was unable to move the shifter (auto transmission). The manual said to put a screwdriver into the shift-lock overide and try to shift at the same time, I didn't have a screwdriver, so I used a key and was able to put the car into reverse and then into drive. I tried to put into reverse again, but again couldn't move the shifter. I tried the shift-lock overide again but was unsuccessful, so I was able to drive forward and decided to drive the car home as the dealer was already closed. As I was driving i noticed that the check engine light was on and even though the shifter was in the D position, the dash indicator said it was in 2nd. When I got home I was able to move the shifter into Neutral so I could stop the engine, but am of course unable to remove the keys from the ignition. Can you give me any information?

I've recently gone on a mad search for answers to my transmission problems (much more complicated), but know this one all to well. First off, while sitting in the driver's seat, put your key in the ignition. Turn the key to the "ON" position without starting the car. Now... with your hand on the shifter, FEEL and listen for a light "click" as you push the BRAKE pedal.
IF a click IS heard/felt, this means your safety interlock is working correctly, and that the button in your shifter is not disengaging the lock down inside the shifter housing. This USUALLY results from being FORCED out of park WITHOUT depressing the brake pedal (not disengaging the interlock),thus, shearing off a small pin in the shifter shaft, that lifts the inner lock. (not easy to fix... but easy to replace)
IF a click IS NOT heard or felt, first make sure that the small button switch located at the top of the brake pedal, is in place, properly adjusted, and plugged in. Double check fuses. disassemble shifter housing, and test for 12volts at the interlock solenoid when brake pedal is pressed. Check for 12v at brake pedal switch. If both are present, check the park-position switch for positioning or nearby damage.
Based on the indicator showing that you're in second gear... I'd strongly go with the shifter having been forced out of park... damaging the shift lock pin and associated parts, including where the linkage for your indicator is located. When you push the release button on the shifter, in and out repeatedly... you should see a small pin near the bottom of the shifter shaft the moves up and down with each button press. If this doesn't happen... the pin is most likely half missing.

I got a new transimission and clutch approximately 3 weeks ago, and yesterday my pedal was stuck to the floor and wouldn't shift to any gears. Now today my pedal feels loose, starts but won't shift in any gears.

check the fluid as it sounds like you have either a clutch master failure or a slave failure

Roy

What fluids am I checking for? I have oil, power steering fluid, break fluid.

next to the brake fluid is another fluid holder or it may be attached to the brake master. it contains the brake fluid for the clutch system

Roy

Fluids seem to be fine, as husband went to look under hood. He observed a loose nut that was attached to the trainsmission and some excess fluid underneath car.

that could be the slave cylinder. i suggest returning to the shop for follow up work on the repair you just paid for

Roy

my automatic wont shift into second gear

check the fluid but beyond that it may be internal and will require a trans shop to determine the failure

roy

that is most likely the source of the problem. Take the car back to the mechaninc who did the work. he should corect the problem as part of the original repair (at no extra cost to you).

Get a scan done to check for trouble codes.

Transmission will not change properly.

have a transmission professional check for codes and check fluid condition including level as it has no dipstick so has to be put on hoist.

Thanks, the oil level is fine. I believe the problem is one of the sensor. I will like to see a diagram of this sensors.

they are on sides of trans and some inside trans see pic

When upshifting the motor increases a few hundred rpm while shifting. The transmission doesn't seem to slip and if you increase throttle pressure it down shifts ok. Is it normal for the slight increase in rpm's while upshifting?

This was a classic problem with the automatic tranny Elantras in 2001. So much so that there were a number of TSBs issued on the matter. The car's computer should have been flashed to correct the issue, but you may have to take it to a dealer to confirm that the update(s) were applied. If you are not the original owner, it is possible that the prior owner just ignored the problem and never thought to inquire with the dealer (the fix would have been free and still should be). You might wish to log on to the HMAservice.com website that Hyundai maintains to see this and other bulletins that apply to this model year. There are other websites that offer TSB info., but some of them charge a fee.

If the updates have been applied and you are getting the issue anyhow, perhaps it is time for a transmission fluid flush (hard or delayed shifts may be a symptom of low or dirty fluid). Keep in mind that the fluid used in this tranny isn't stocked by many shops and isn't interchangeable with most of what is sold at the automotive retail shops. I had to special order mine from Hyundai when I had my '01 Elantra's transmission flushed. If you rule out all of the above, it is possible the transmission has been damaged by use of incorrect fluid and/or normal wear and tear.

Good luck!

I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra with 140,000 miles. Twice in the past week, while I have been driving the car has lurched and at the same time the "check engine" light comes on. The car then will not shift gears, up or down, but will still accelerate at high rpms. After the first incident I had my transmission flushed. What could be the problem?

Check engine light being On-means the computer has identified a problem within the engine management system-Take it to autozone and have them read the OBD2 code/s from the computer, then comeback with it this is where we start.

Autozone wouldn't do a diagnostic on the computer because the check engine light was not on. The light only comes on when the transmission slips, then goes off when I shut off the car and let it set for a few minutes. There is a local Hyundai dealership and I think I should get them to diagnose the problem. What do you think?

I strongly recommend you do that its their vehicle to begin with plus they are equipped with the tools and testing equipment.

While driving at normal city speeds (25 to 45 mph)the engine will rev and the transmission seems to clunk rather ubruptly to a lower gear.At that time the Check Engine light also comes on.When I come to a stop and then accelerate the transmission seems to slip and not shift correctly.After shutting down for about 1/2 hour the car drives fine again until the same thing happens.I haven't had any previous transmission or engine problems and I keep up the maintenance.Does this sound like an expensive fix?

Hi
This sounds like major trans prob. i would have the car scanned the code will help determine if you have a transmission problem or a engine prob.

transmission is pretty expensive prices will vary from one shop to the next.rebuilt prob around 1400-2000
used 400 600 plus labor.


So these are the expenses you could be looking at...

my car is idling very fast and seemingly is not shifting at higher speeds. This started shortly after i replaced the igniton wires. (i had one bad one) I dont know if this is related but at about the same time the shifter lever started acting up. I cant put it in gear without using the override button. When i push the button on my shifter i can hear/feel it "click" in the steering colum.

Hello .. thanks for the donation .. much appreciated

SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM
The shift lock system prevents gearshift lever from being moved from Park unless brake pedal is depressed, ignition is on and release button on side of gearshift lever is depressed. The shift lock system consists of shift and key lock control module, shift lock solenoid, park position switch and brakelight switch. See COMPONENT LOCATIONS . The shift and key lock control module controls operation of shift lock solenoid for gearshift lever operation. In case of a malfunction, gearshift lever can be released by depressing release button.
KEY LOCK SYSTEM
The key lock system prevents ignition key from being turned to LOCK position unless gearshift lever is in Park. Key lock system consists of shift and key lock control module, key lock solenoid and key lock switch. See COMPONENT LOCATIONS . The shift and key lock control module controls operation of key lock solenoid.

SHIFT LOCK SYSTEM
To check system operation, turn ignition on. Depress release button on side of gearshift lever.
With brake pedal released, gearshift lever should not move from Park. Depress brake pedal. With release button depressed, gearshift lever should now move from Park.
If shift lock system operation is not as specified, check brakelight switch and shift lock solenoid. See BRAKELIGHT SWITCH and SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID under COMPONENT TESTS. If necessary, check wiring and ground connections.
BRAKELIGHT SWITCH
Disconnect brakelight switch connector. Using DVOM, check for continuity between brakelight switch terminals with brake pedal depressed. Continuity should be present. Release brake pedal. Continuity should not be present. If continuity is as specified, brakelight switch is okay. If continuity is not as specified, go to next step.
Ensure brake pedal is properly adjusted so brakelight switch can obtain proper travel for switch operation. See BRAKELIGHT SWITCH under ADJUSTMENTS. If adjustment is okay, replace brakelight switch.

SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID
Disconnect shift lock solenoid connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance between shift lock solenoid terminals. Replace shift lock solenoid if resistance is not 12-16 ohms.
To check shift lock solenoid operation, connect battery voltage across shift lock solenoid terminals. When battery voltage is applied, a "clicking" sound should be heard to indicate solenoid operation. Replace shift lock solenoid if operation is not as specified.

OK but what about the fast idle after replacing the ignition wires and the shifting problem? Are you saying my solenoid problem is somehow related to that?

check the TPS (throttle position sensor) is not binding/sticking .. this could cause high idle and incorrect gear shift's

And where would that be and how do I check/test it?

Hey, sorrynot replied sooner .. work commitment's ! The tps is located on throttle body .. check the wiring is good .. remove it from throttle body and check it is not binding up/sticking .. clean it or replace it if necassary ! (#8 in picture)

I have a 04 Hyundai Elantra with 110000 miles on it. When i first start driving the car the transmission won't shift out of first gear and the check engine light comes on. I have found out that when this happens i can immediately turn the car off and turn it back on and the transmission will shift properly. Do you know what the problem is and if i will need to have the transmision replaced

Hi kyletaliaferro,

Thank you for the donation.

When the CEL indicates, it indicates an error has been detected in the engine or transmission management system. Turning the engine off and restarting is able to reset the PCM.

Get a free scan done at Autozone and let me know the EXACT trouble codes so I can get the necessary information and advise accordingly.

My CEL is not on anymore. Can I still go get the codes or do I have to wait till this pro lem happens again