having engine misfire problems?

This happens when the plug wires break down I would do tune up with spark plugs and wires using all motorcraft parts here are two guides to help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.

Thanks for you time in replying -- much appreciated...

Please let us know how it turns out so it will help others

My OBDII reader was saying I had two bad ignition coils, also giving a P0354 "Primary/secondary coil failure" message. I was going to replace the two indicated bad coils, instead bought a set of six at Amazon for $38.50 (yes, that's right, a complete set of SIX ignition coils for $38.50!). Of course I was initially skeptical, but.... 176 reviews of the coils, 150 of the reviews gave them 5 stars. I know most "experts" would say don't do it, but it's difficult to ignore those numbers. They're sold by "ENA" -- a company I've never heard of. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PGRJN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed three new coils (the three that are easy to access without removing the intake manifold, and so far the car is running absolutely fantastically well. I'll try to remember to give an update here in six months, a year (etc??) to report on how they hold up as time goes on. I got all new parts including the coil the engine has never run better thanks again! I love this site I cant believe it is free.

That sounds great! nice work on the fix, please let us know if they last thanks for using 2CarPros we are here to help

Best, Ken

I bought this car about a year ago. Everything was smooth for about six months no check engine light or any other problems. Until recently I would start the car and the engine would jerk for a while then stop when I am driving. If I stop at a stop sign it jerks and the check engine light periodically comes on from time to time but never stays lit. I had a complete tune up since this started and it seemed to have fixed the issue for a little while but the problem came right back. The last time the light came on I got the codes read P0306, P0316 and P0325. Can anyone help me solve this problem I would greatly appreciate it?

P0325 is most likely been set because of the vibrations from the engine when it misfires. The misfire code should be addressed first. P0316 would indicate that the misfire is happening at start up especially if vehicle sits for a while.

Have the #6 spark plug removed and let vehicle sit overnight. Pressurize the cooling system and let it sit over night also if possible lift up the fuel rail on bank2 with the injectors still attached. Cycle key on and off a few times without starting to pressurize the fuel line and place some paper under the injectors.

In the morning check paper for signs of leaking fuel injectors. If the paper is dry then fuel injectors are ok. Using a bore scope look inside and examine the piston for coolant. If it is wet then the cylinder head will need to come off to properly pressure test head and examine the block for any damage.

My car has I PO301 and a PO325. The misfire is random. I am looking for testing procedures. I am going to swap injectors to see if I can move the problem, but I am not sure how to test the coil. Does this car have a waste spark system so I can swap wire locations.(it does not have COP'S)

I am also trying to find the test procedure for the knock sensor. I have checked for resistance. there was no reading.. open circuit.

Swapping the injectors made no difference.

So you checked resistance across the sensor itself? If you have an open circuit here then I would replace the sensor and retest the misfire because a faulty knock sensor can cause an intermittent misfire.

I attached the testing for this knock sensor code as well however, I suspect you won't get past step 4. They have you testing the circuit from the PCM but if you checked the sensor and it is open then I suspect that is the reason for this code.

Let me know if you have questions. Thanks

Yes, I checked resistance across the sensor itself, and it is open. I can't find the Knock sensor pid on my scanner.. I have an Autel 708. I don't really know how to use it, I bought it for educational purposes. I will get a new knock sensor and go from there.

I suspect the coil is weak. I was using my spark tester to see how far the spark would jump from the coil. #1 would not jump out of the top of the coil, but # 4 would jump out about three quarters of an inch. I did not test the others. Does that sound like a weak coil to you?

Yes. It does sound weak. Especially when compared to another. I would replace that as well while you are in there. Keep us updated with what you find. Thanks

I meant to update this sooner. I replaced the coil and the PCV valve. I ordered the wrong knock sensor so it did not get replaced. The codes are still gone and have not come back. The car has developed an intermittent oil leak. It will leave a puddle and a trail of oil occasionally after starting the car. It has happened 3 times that I know of. Do you have any guesses on what it could be?

No problem. Thanks for updating us. That is good to hear.

As for the oil leak we need to get a new post started as we have to keep each thread to one topic so that others can find the solutions to the different issues. They won't find an oil leak solution under this topic.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Let's start the new post after you clean the oil off and start looking daily for where it is starting to drip from. That info and any pictures will help us figure this out quickly. Thanks

Hi, I have an -02 Sable with 3.0 DOHC engine and it has a low idle misfire. I found the PCV valvue was sticking and the L rubber boot that connects it to the air intake was sucked in so those I fixed but the proble persists. I ran the codes and it has the following P0113, P0301, P0316 and P0102.

The car accelerates without a problem and runs good at high speed, just at idle it has miss that comes and goes, sometimes the engige feels like a stall.

Any help would be appreciated..

Thanks

Hello!carmanmt

P0301 says that the cylinder #1 is misfiring.
what need to be check is first of all the condition of the spark plug in that cylinder.just describe me how it look like when you remove it.
make sure any clamp athe manifold is tight enough and not loose.
make sure the injector on that cylinder is not dirty,have the injectors clean at walmart.
make sure the spark plug boot on #1 cylinder is not broken inside.

P0113, this code is about the intake air temperature,
the connector may be bad or the sensor is bad.it is located just after the air filter and it is squeezed in the big rubber boot from the air filter to the intake.

P0102
the MAF may be faulty or Check for loose tube clamps near the MAF sensor

P0316 this last code is a combination of all the code above.
Ask if you have questions.

mathiaso,

thanks for the reply.. I will run those down and get back to you.

Ok, I pulled plugs 1, 2 and 3 and they didn't look real bad, just a little build cleaned and put them back, checked for vacun leaks in hoses and manifold.. checked all the wires with ohm meter and for arching and they were fine, not that old. The removed the coild pack and found multiple cracks in the sides and bottom insulator, replaced that and it seems to be running fine now.. Not sure if that was the only problem, no check engine light or eratic idle probles for now.

One question, do you guys know where the air intake tempature sensor is located or looks like on this engine, its not in the air intake boot, only thing in that arera is the MAF sensor..

congratulation! you 're hire.
I'm happy the car is still running fine.
look, the intake air temperature is located around the intake manifold I do not have picture of it for that particular model , I may ask some of my collegue if you still do not find it.
This sensor helps the PCM to determine spark timing and air/fuel ratio. Information from this sensor is added to the pressure sensor information to calculate the air mass being sent to the cylinders. The IAT is a two wire sensor. A 5-volt reference signal is sent to the sensor and the signal return is based upon the change in the measured resistance due to temperature.
sending the chart in your email

sounds good, when do I start...

Now that you said its two wires, think I found it.. funny looking thing on the far side top of the intake air assembly, has a big black knob on it.. will try and take a picture and post it to share with others..

Thanks.. with cars today, sure we will be talking agin.

you find it, congratulation, keep me updated.
let me know what happens.

My car jerks when I put it into gears and my low coolant light is on, but the coolant part is full and sometimes it shakes when I am driving.

Coolant light is probably a bad sensor in the coolant recovery tank. Normally that is replaced as part of the tank.

The jerking and shaking could be related. It sounds like the idle speed is high, that could be a dirty throttle body or a bad/sticking idle air control or a vacuum leak.
The shaking could be misfires related to a vacuum leak as well.

I would start by looking at all of the vacuum lines for cracks, erosion or damage.
When was the last time the car had a complete tune up with plugs and wires?

I have an 02 Sable Duractach 3.0 V6 that is misfiring. Seems to be worse when the vehicle is first driven and seems to go away quite a bit after usual city driving. However if AC comes on it will misfire occasionally while driving and will misfire quite a bit if stopped in traffic. The mechanic who I've never used before says he needs to do a compression test and that it will be $220 to have the test done. My question is wether or not this is worth it. I just want to make sure I'm not being had. I really do think its the coil pack or injection coil, is there an easy way he can check to see if these are bad before doing the compression test? Or if I pay for the compression test will it also let the mechanic know that the coil pack or injection coil is bad? Also the only other code that is showing on diag is b-1600 (Pass antitheft tran) pretty sure thats totally unrelated but just throwing it out there.

Well I would consider tune up and a coil on cylinder #1
as is you have to remove the spark plugs to do the compression ,They are not sure of them self's sorry
we find it very common to have a bad coil

Replaced plugs, wires and coil. Problem remains.

Good morning,

Did you check compression? That would have been the first thing I would have done to be sure there is no internal engine issues.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

This could also be from and injector not spraying fuel or spraying too much.

Make sure all vacuum lines are connected and not cracked or broken. A vacuum leak will cause a misfire.

Roy

I have a 3.0 dohc that is misfireing, 1st time i checked it was in cylinder #1 then it went to cylinder #6. I have put in a new egr vaule, vgr vaule sensor, coil pack, cranshift sensor, new spark pulgs and wires, new manifold seals, new #6 fuel injector and still have a misfire on #6? it stalls sometimes when i stop, and idols below 500 when in drive and around 700 in park. auto zone troubleshooting code is p0316 & p0306 and at one point in time code p0301 but that one comes and goes the 1st time that i check it was there 2nd time i check it was not 3rd time i check it was there and now that code is not showing up but i have unpluged the battery so it may be that it just reset the computer and its been there along? code p0306 has been there every time which is a misfire in #6 cyl. It also has made a backfire sound but not everytime but have heard 4-5 times. it also pops when I take off?

I will get a compression check tomorrow, got new plugs and wires got a new coil and got good spark, new egr vaule but there dont seem to be much suckage on the hose that connects to the top of the egr vaule? should there be alot of suckage in that hose? but I still need to check the oxygen sensor...I had it at bennett fords and they said it was the #6 fuel injector but i put a new one in and still running rough. O yeah plus when I took it back to auto zone it still had the p0306 code plus a new code saying my fuel prussure is low. when I turn on the a/c its even worst could that just be from the extra prussure on the engine with the misfireing
cyl(s)?

compression check completed today and everything was fine there Changed Air temp sensor and she is now purring like a kitten,so everyone better look out cause i am back on the road again lol

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engine light on, replace bad spark plugs still misfires. there is some kind of air leak sound in back right side of manifold, makes a sucking sound when i give it gas, checked for vaccum leaks cant find any, could coil pack make this sound or

No sound would come from a coil
check if it has spark if not suspect and replace the coil
if have a vacuum leak check engine should indicate that by giving out codes
my next step would be checking for spark at the coils per cylinder

Own 2003 mercury sable gs, 116K, 3.0L, V6, SFI. Veh misfires on cyl #2. Had veh to ford, mercury and private tech. Things done: replaced plug/wire, checked coil, relative comp check, injector flow test, power bal test, changed out cyl 2 injector, comp check 160, motor vac and injector service, ran techron through gas tank, ran 2 cycle oil 8oz through gas tank. Check engine light still comes on with misfire code and when starting up cold engine has real slight shake, but warms up runs smooth. Spend over $300 and car not repaired. Do you experts think taking head off last resort and/or is there other test to try? I was thinking of leakdown.

Plugs/Wires are they OEM parts? Try swapping the coil around for no.2 and see whether the misfire will occur on a different cylinder.

Try checking the EGR

Misfire in one particular cylinder should lead you to check the spark plug, fuel injector and compression