Car loses power while driving

Hi jgonzalez160, welcome to 2carpros

Scan the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on. This is your starting point of diagnosis, finding out what is going on.

This guide will help us find it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.

I scanned my vehicle and gave me code 1361 (TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption), and code 1457 EVAP Control System Leakage.

Inspect and test the TDC sensor on front engine see location number nine as for the P1457 check the gas cap and EVAP canister vent-shut valve or get it smoke tested to find it

I've been working on the car listed above EX model. The car drives and runs but the rpm doesn't go up at all and the car doesn't accelerate like it's suppose to. I've changed three of the oxygen sensor at the front of the car, the TPS, and the mass air flow sensor. I was hoping someone would have an idea of what's wrong.

Hello SEGMA.

Pull your cluster panel check the cable that runs from the transmission to the cluster.

Everything on the cluster looks good and it was plugged in properly.

Hello,

If I could step in here real quick. There is a Self Diagnostic Test you can do to test the functioning of the gauge assembly. I have included it in the diagrams down below. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out. If the gauge assembly needs to be replaced we can give you instructions on how to do that as well.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

I was driving my honda civic fine until yesterday, it suddenly started to slow down.Here is what i observed 1.The car did not stop until i stopped it manually. 2. I Started my car, and it started perfectly alright. 3.Tried to Accelerate the car, But the RPM only stops at 3000Rpm and doesent go beyond that. 4.I tried to move the car on Drve mode, the car moves very slowly and does not have power to go up the street. 5.After driving to home probaly like 2 miles, in th same spped i.e 20-25mph.When i apply brakes on traffic lights when in Drive mode the engine stops. 6.i opened my Hood and observed that the Chamber where the spark plug is located id RED HOT. 7.I stopped the engine and checked for Oil levels and transmission fliud's everything fine. 8.In the morning turned back the car ON, perfectly turned on,and put the car on Drive and the car was runnig fine. 9.Im still wondering what could have happened to the car??? 10.Could that be a problem of coolant?? 11:Transmission problem??

The engine is in limp mode and there is either a fuel or ignition cut. Your exhaust manifold is red hot because you are spitting out a lot of raw fuel into the exhaust.

Scan the PCM, that is the first step to diagnosis. There could be a number of different problems.

Car loses power after fifteen to twenty minute drive on the freeway, specially in hot weather. Temperature meter does not go over half, stays the same as when car turns on.

When you say it loses power, does it shut off or just get sluggish? When this happens does anything else shut off like the radio, heater, lights?
If it just shuts off is it instant like you turned off the key or does it sputter and skip like it is running out of gas?

after 20 minutes of driving car hesitates and loses power and the engine light comes on. after 20 minutes of cooling she runs again. Car is not over heating, it runs sluggish and eventually cuts off if is running beyond the 20 mins.

You most likely have a sensor out of range.

What is the DTC (diagnostic trouble code)? That should lead you in the right direction.

My civic will randomly lose power while driving down the road. When this happens, you can step on the gas and it spits and sputters and has no power. I t will hardly do 20mph. After parking for a while it starts back up fine and will run fine foe a while until it happens again. I had the auto parts store hook up their computer and they said it showed codes for misfiring and the catalytic converter was not working at optimal level.

Hi kurtsteele65,

Misfiring would cause loss of power and it could be due to the spark plugs or related parts. Misfires can also damage the catalytic converter, which from what you are describing may be partially plugged. Try loosening the exhaust flange before the cat and driving it, if the cat is the problem it will run ok, but yes it will be loud

Read the guide below, it will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

My check engine light is on ,went to auto zone got it tested and they said it was some kind of oxygen sensor ,we'll I over looked it and went and got a oil change now my car won't go 20 mph.please help

The oxygen sensors won't cause that. They simply help the Engine Computer fine tune fuel metering for lowest emissions, and the "downstream" ones monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter(s). Basically there's three things to look at. There could be a lack of engine power from misfiring cylinders. You'd feel and hear that. Power could be down due to a jumped timing belt, but usually the engine will be hard to start too.

The exhaust system could be restricted, typically due to a plugged catalytic converter. Listen to the sound of the exhaust at the tail pipe. If you hear a steady hiss instead of the normal "putt-putt" sound, suspect a plugged catalytic converter. There should also be a good hard air flow from the tail pipe.

A disc brake could be dragging, but there will almost always be other symptoms or observations. Feel next to the two front wheels after driving a few miles. If one is real hot, have the brake system inspected.

Also be aware that diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. When a sensor is referenced in the fault code, it is actually the cause of that code about half of the time. Your mechanic must check the wiring and do some electrical tests to rule everything out other than the sensor.

I have a Honda Civic EX 2001 and when I'm on a stop sign, it jerks a bit. When I try to accelerate the car is not moving again and later while i keep gasing it's okay again. I got IAC changed and some valves what should be replaced and what is causing this problem?

[quote:10b96b3c78="kwong"]I have a Honda Civic EX 2001 and when I'm on a stop sign, it jerks a bit. When I try to accelerate the car is not moving again and later while i keep gasing it's okay again. I got IAC changed and some valves what should be replaced and what is causing this problem?[/quote:10b96b3c78]

So there are no engine codes? Here again it can be so many things. Fuel, spark, sensors. Why did they change your IAC? Same reason?

i went to my local mechanic for this and I will never go to him again because the probelm still exist. Basically what he did was he did a tune up spark plugs, gasket, air filter pcv. He changed valve set, throttle body and IAC valve and Tp sensor and I still have the same problem. People told me it might be the distributor cap could it be? So just say I'm on a stop sign, my car kind of shakes a bit and then I can't accelerate and I wait a bit and keep pressin on the gas I can accelerate.. Engine light did not come on nothing came on at all..

[quote:0d9f0fe8dd="kwong"]i went to my local mechanic for this and I will never go to him again because the probelm still exist. Basically what he did was he did a tune up spark plugs, gasket, air filter pcv. He changed valve set, throttle body and IAC valve and Tp sensor and I still have the same problem. People told me it might be the distributor cap could it be? So just say I'm on a stop sign, my car kind of shakes a bit and then I can't accelerate and I wait a bit and keep pressin on the gas I can accelerate.. Engine light did not come on nothing came on at all..[/quote:0d9f0fe8dd]

Alot of the things your mechanic did could have fixed the problem. That is a problem when you are just guessing at what is wrong.
First thing, do you have the sedan or coupe? Which engine? Just 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder will do after you say coupe or sedan.
If I understand your problem, it idles rough, and is slow to aclerate off of idle, but once you get it going, it runs good? If that is your problem, then it really doesnt sound like an ignition problem unless maybe there is some added resistance in some connections that the higher rpm voltage can over come (Probably not). Your car probably does have a distributor cap, and if there are some bad connections where the rotor sends the spark to the cap, it may give the symptoms you descride. I would have thought the mechanic would have checked this as one of the first things to check. Have uit checked, and replaced if it looks bad, and then move on to what else could cause this problem.
What it sounds like is that your fuel supply at idle is not being correctly controlled. Once you get out of the idle mode, it runs good from there.
I would see if your mechanic, or another mechanic can connect a fuel pressure gauge inline in the fuel delivery system and see exactly what the fuel pressure is doing when it is giving you trouble. Maybe you have a fuel injector that is delivering too much fuel, and making the car rich at idle, but as you get some speed, it needs more fuel so it runs better. When your mechanic replaced your spark pulgs, were any showing signs of burning rich? Maybe a little blacker than the others, or possibly fouled some?
A bad PGM-FI main relay is usually a cause of the engine cutting off, but I can theroize a remote crazy senario in which it could cause this problem. I only through that out as a really remote possiblity.

i took my car to the dealers today and they diagnostic it or something and test drove the car and cannot find the problem. so what they did was update the computer program in the car. on my receipt it says iac update will this actually fix my problem? apparently no one knows what the problem is and the dealers said that when they diagnostic the car there is no problem. my car is a 4 cyclinder car and it's a coupe. yes when i am on the stop sign sometimes, and try to accelerate i have problem accelerating it only happens once in a while..

[quote:b8a7351483="kwong"]i took my car to the dealers today and they diagnostic it or something and test drove the car and cannot find the problem. so what they did was update the computer program in the car. on my receipt it says iac update will this actually fix my problem? apparently no one knows what the problem is and the dealers said that when they diagnostic the car there is no problem. my car is a 4 cyclinder car and it's a coupe. yes when i am on the stop sign sometimes, and try to accelerate i have problem accelerating it only happens once in a while..[/quote:b8a7351483]

Lets keep our fingers crossed that maybe the IAC you had replaced was bad, and maybe the mechanic didnt know how to set it up properly. The only update I see is for the PCM, however it may have never been updated and maybe this will fix it.

i took the car to the first mechanic because when im on a stop sign i had problem accelerating that's when he started to change the iac valve throttle body tune up and tp sensor.. and then the dealer reset and update the iac.. what is pcm? also i was wondering is it always better to use honda genuine parts instead of generic parts? and does this actually happen to some other cars too?

but i feel as though i wasted 700 bucks on the first mechanic and same thing still happened and the problem wasn't even fixed.. if i went to the dealers in the first place it woudln't cost me as much

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Honda Civic 4 cyl Automatic 200,00 miles

JUST PUT IN HEAD GASKET AND CAR HAS NO POWER NOW

[quote:b8a77c34ac="kwong"]but i feel as though i wasted 700 bucks on the first mechanic and same thing still happened and the problem wasn't even fixed.. if i went to the dealers in the first place it woudln't cost me as much[/quote:b8a77c34ac]

Try not to think of it that way. The parts you had installed are all new now, and will probably last a long time before you need work again. Who knows, one of the parts the first mechanic replaced may have broken this week.

Hi there,

Re check the valve timing, check the comps and check the ignition timing, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

apparently i still have the same problem.. *sigh* this is pretty aggrevating for me seems as though no one knows what hte problem is.. it only happens once in a while what other problems can it be? can it really be the distributor cap/

This is really hard to describe. I bought a 2000 Honda Civic EX Coupe recently and it feels like it is having problems with power when going up hills. It seems to jump and I am wondering if it may be the fuel filter or pump.

It only really happens when i am going up a hill slowly. At first I thought it may be the transmission, but it seems like no matter if it is in 2nd, 3rd or 4th... feels like it is lurching and has lack of power.

Does it sound like something more problematic or something that can be easily fixed?

I am taking it to an auto parts store today to have a diagonsitc test done. So will follow up if needed.

Hi there,

Some fault codes will not bring on the ECU light, so get a scan done anyway. As for the Cat, if it is a few check and report get it done, but don't get caught out , as i feel you problem is not exhaust related.

Mark (mhpautos)

Hi,

Yes. sometimes a scan will not show any code because the sensors are not fully defective, they are just providing a false reading whereby the ECU will think that there is nothing wrong.

You need to run the vehicle with scanner plugged in to check all the various sensors to see if they are registering correctly according to conditions.

Since you mentioned while going up hill the problem happens, I suggest you have a look at the MAP sensor.

when i driving my car sometimes when i accelerate, although the accelerator pressed it will not accelerate and also the RPM remain same and the accelerator pressed further a abnormal sound comes and it will then accelerate. this is not always happen. i feel some delay shifting sometimes not always. i will appreciate if some one help me to solve this problem.

It could be a bad throttle cable. Have someone step on gas pedal while holding it down, check and see if the throttle body butterfly is fully open. If not replace the throttle body cable.

[quote:9305f646f3="Rich Crites"]It could be a bad throttle cable. Have someone step on gas pedal while holding it down, check and see if the throttle body butterfly is fully open. If not replace the throttle body cable.[/quote:9305f646f3]


Thanks for the reply, i checked the throttle body butterfly, when the accelerator paddle is fully pressed the butterfly is fully opened. there is no problem.

I performed full tuneup for the car.cleaned the throttle body and replaced the fuel filter and also spark plugs. after that it runs very well. had more power and no such abnormal sound.
but after about 3 weeks, when I'm driving a hill street sometimes that knock sound comes from the engine side. it will comes when i depress the acc. pedal suddenly to get more power after slowing because of breaking. i will appreciate if some one help me to solve this problem.

Hi,

I am a new member and hope yuo could help me to solve this problem :

When I start my car after the engine been stop for a while ( 30 mins ), the car do not accelerate . RPM just could not move up > 2000. I need to release the gas pedal and push again for few times then the RPM will be able to move > 2000.

When engine has warm up, everything is ok except the car has lost power during uphill and overtake.

For your information, I had overhaul my engine and gearbox 6 months ago.

I change my engine oil & filter every 5000KM. previously problem above seldom happen but getting more often and serious recently.


Thanks

IBS

Scan the ECU for any codes. You may have a sensor issue when the vehicle is cold.

Also, if you haven't done a tune-up in a while, that could be the problem as well. But first have the ECU scanned.

Engine Performance problem
2000 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

why my engine loose power?

If your engine compression is good,check and test the following below:

Oygen sensor
Dirty fuel injectors (cleaning the injectors often fixes this).
Bad MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor
Bad TPS (throttle position) sensor
Bad or dirty MAF (mass airflow) sensor
Low fuel pressure (leaky fuel pressure regulator or weak fuel pump)
Vacuum leaks (intake manifold, vacuum hoses, throttle body, EGR valve)
Bad gasoline (fuel contaminated with water or too much alcohol)

Sometimes, what feels like a hesitation is actually ignition misfire rather than lean misfire. The causes of ignition misfire may include:

Dirty or worn spark plugs
Bad plug wires
Weak ignition coil
Wet plug wires
Cap and rotor

Note: If it doesn't apply disregard.