Engine misfire?

Hi chrisletua,

Did the Malfunction Indicator Light show? Did you test the fuel pressure? This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down this guide and report back.

About the malfunction indicator light - the light did not show

For the fuel pressure - the pressure is ok

But for the spark plugs - i don't how to check that. but what i notice now is the cold starting. If that is as a result of the plug. what type do i use.

Thanks for your assistance.
from
[email protected]

Hi chrisletua,

Pull a plug wire out and attach a spark plug. Crank and watch the color of the spark, should be builsh.

I have check it and it is ok. can you please tell me the type of spark plug that my model use. Because, when i look at the plugs their, my local mechanics mix diffrent type.

Thanks

Hi chrisletua,

Should be NGK BKR6E-11. I need to know the engine variant to be sure.

Hi Mr. KHLow2008, Moderator
Thanks so much, you always stand by me. I have search for the spark plug NGK BKR6E-11, but i cloud not find such, what i find is NKG BKR6E. the only different is the last 11.
I dont know if its the same type.

Now the car is given me a grounding sound like one bearing is bad some where. I suspect the rear Tyre side. But if i checke the ream on the tyre (the 4 tyres)no of them is hot.

secondly, the gass consumption is too much.
Please what can i do.
Thanks

Hi chrisletua,

We would always have our arms opened to welcome you anytime.

NGK BKR6E would have a gap of 0.8 mm whereas the 11 = 1.1 mm. You can use the plug but they have to be regapped.

A smaller gap would cause higher fuel consumption.

Where the gas consumption is concerned, it would be hard to advise or suggest anything.

Possible causes.
1. Engine ignition timing.
2. Idle speed adjustment.
3. Driving method.
4. Brakes.
5, Clutches, might be worn and slipping causing power losses too.

Hi KHLow2008, Moderator,
compliment of the season, how are you. I have this question to ask you again.

Just last week, i drove across a distance of about 692km from my working place to my home town. I spent 4day, on my way back, after about 25km, I find out that the car could not move very well again. The first thing i use to do is to check the spark plug.

Now i find out that the first one is dead out of the four. Only number 1. I change it the care come back to normal till i reach my working place after the vacation.

Now i have the same problem 2day late, I have change the plug now for three times. and it is the same BKR6E 11. Please what could be the problem? help me out.
christopher

Hi Christopher,

When a plug keeps shorting out, you need to check if the compression is good.

Another problem could be oil leaking into the cylinders causing the plugs to foul up. Might be due to worn valve stem seals, which is quite likely based on the year of your vehicle. Is the engine oil consumption high after the long distance drive?

3rd thing to check would be the spark plug cables which I seem to have missed out the last time. Get an ohmmeter to test the ohms, should have continuity but below 25 k ohms. Do you have hesitation while accelerating?

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Your reply use to help me a lot, as an electrical technician I still try my best to understand some mechanical terminology.

1, i will see my local mechanics to check the compression for me.

2, there is no oil shortage and the consumption is OK
the plugs did not foul up but it is dried and tick black on it.

For the cables i will give you feedback on that very soon. But i do have hesitation while accelerating, in the morning and occasionally while on speed.

what can you say about the engine, it old? do you advice me to change it or what?

Thanks see you.

Hi Christopher,

If you do not have excessive engine oil consumption or overheating problem the engine is still going strong. Not necessary to replace it.

Unless the compression is low, then you might need to rebuild or replace it.

Btw you should check if the catalytic converter is clogged. It would affect performance and would cause plugs to short, but mostly the plugs would wear of the electrodes.

If you have sooty sparks, either the spark is weak, which can be due to a bad plug wire, or faulty injector, causing flooding, ie excessive fuel getting to the cylinder.

Hi friend, since the last time you reply my mail, you will not believe that my local mechanic could not solve the problem, then I have decided to take it up myself.

If you remember, it was a spark plug issue we discussed last. Since then I've been changing plugs every month, Later i discover that the air system is dirty (i cant say precisely the type of air system) I clean it up and for the rest of that month it was fantastic. But now the problem come back again. This time around I have to open the ECU and observe the LED.

When I start the engine in the morning, normally the engine will work for about to minute without load i.e no head lamp on or other things, then engine will come down with low noise and less vibration. But now the engine after 15s to 20s it will rise again and you will here the manifold vibrating.

The LED D1,D2,D3 and D4 in the ECU.
As you starting the engine D4 and D2 light up the the engine high up D4 went off and D1 lit up at this time this air system become abnormal, if you press the accelerator the engine will start to make shooting sound and slow down later went off.

On the ECU there are three plug with bunch of cable if I remove the middle plug the and start the engine LED D2,D3 and D4 come on and the engine is normal but the PGM-FI light on the dash board will not work and after 1hour the engine will not start again until I plugged in the cable plug back.

(1) Is my ECU bad (2) is there any relay that is bad (3) is my PGM-FI bad. (4) is there any problem with Idle speed adjustment.

With all this problem the engine did not soak spark plug but there are black deposit on the spark plug.
Please if there is any drowning to assist me kindly forward it to my mail box [email protected]

Hi Christopher,

Some teting would need to be done to find out what is wrong and I need tounderstand the situation better.

If the ECU is equipped with 4 LED then this should be a 86 model and not 89 as stated.

It uses the binary system for counting the codes, with 8, 4, 2, 1 respectively. I do not understand what you meant by D1 to D4 so hope my explanaion of the LED would enable you to read the codes better. 1 starts from right and is read leftwards.

Maybe you should test the coolant temperature sensor and or it circuit. Your problem seems likely to be caused by it.

It is 1987 model yes it has 4 LED Yes, it uses the binary system for counting the codes, with 8, 4, 2, 1 1 starting from right and is read leftwards. you are correct How can i locate the coolant temperature sensor coolant temperature sensor, is there any way to test

I am sending you the picture of the ECU. that is the tow LED that come on when the engine is runing

Here is the one with the three plug on the side

now you can see the D1,D2 that I was telling you earlier. more pix

Awaiting your reply thanks.

The D1 to D4 are the circuit board schematic diodes. I have the testing diagnostic for the various circuits but it is not the correct position as the ECU connectors unless you have the Diagnostic Harness Checker. Refer to lower diagram for wire colors. You can back probe the connectors by removing the ECU from its mounting points. A = biggest connector ( white) you need to backprobe the C connector. Note the wire colors at ECT, you have the correct pix of it. SELF-DIAGNOSTIC LIGHTS NO. 1 & 4 ON OR LIGHT BLINKS 5 TIMES NOTE: Check control box vacuum hose routing before proceeding with trouble shooting. 1. Ensure MAP sensor vacuum hoses are properly connected. Disconnect vacuum hose from MAP sensor and plug open end of hose. Disconnect vacuum hose No. 21 from throttle body (vacuum hose between MAP sensor and throttle body on CRX Si). Connect vacuum pump to hose and apply vacuum. 2. If vacuum does not hold, replace hose. If vacuum remains constant, plug system checker harness between control unit and connector. Connect positive voltmeter probe to terminal C15 (Red/White wire) and negative probe to terminal C14 (Blue/White wire). Turn ignition on and check voltage. 3. Voltage should be 4.75-5.25 volts. If voltage is not within specification, replace ECU and retest. If voltage is within specification, connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal C11 (White/Blue wire) and negative probe to terminal C14 (Blue/White wire). 4. Voltage should be 2.76-2.96 volts. If voltage is not within specification, check and repair open/short circuit in Blue/White or White/Blue wires (White/Red or Brown/White wires on CRX Si) between MAP sensor and ECU. Check for faulty MAP sensor. 5. If voltage is within specification, connect vacuum pump to MAP sensor. Ensure voltage varies as vacuum is applied. If voltage does not vary, replace MAP sensor. If voltage varies, replace ECU and retest. SELF-DIAGNOSTIC LIGHTS NO. 2 & 8 ON OR LIGHT BLINKS 10 TIMES 1. Plug system checker harness between ECU and connector. Connect voltmeter positive probe to terminal C5 (White/Red wire) and negative probe to terminal C12 (Green/White wire). Turn ignition on. Ensure voltage reading is correct for intake air temperature. 2. If voltage is correct, replace ECU and retest. If voltage is not correct, turn ignition off. Check for open/short circuit in White/Red and Green/White wires (Red/Yellow and Brown/Black wires on CRX Si) between intake air temperature sensor and ECU. Repair wiring if necessary. If wiring checks okay, check intake air temperature sensor. Replace sensor if defective. If sensor tests okay, replace ECU and retest.

I need more pix to guide me on the trouble shooting.
Thanks

Volkswagen Vento 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

Hi, i am Christopher. i have change my car now to Volkswagen Vento 1997 model with V6 engine.

I drove to school to pick my kid in the afternoon and later in the evening. i get the car tape fixed and after, i start the engine to check with the tape output, and its ok. later the engine went off. Then i notice the engine oil level signal light flashing and the car did not start. The engine oil level is OK.

The return hose for the fuel is not returning to the tank. but that problem of the fuel not returning had been long waiting problem.
please help.
Thanks

i have a 89 civic with 270000 miles that runs great with the exeption that sometimes when i start to accelerate it the car starts jolting like when you are learning to drive manual trans. check engine is on

Hi omilee3233,

When CEL is showing, you need retrieve the Diagnosti Trouble Code to find out what is wrong first.

Depending on the type of ECM, some might have the LED on the ECM. Just tuen ignition switch on anc cout the numner of flashes to determine the DTC. Get the code and post here for further diagnosis.

1995 honda civic 118000 miles

My car runs fine when you first start it cold, but when it warms up it runs on three cylinders at low rpms and gets worse as it gets hotter. When i stop at a light its also worse for like 3 seconds when i go again. At first I thought it was my head gasket, but could it be my fuel injector.

Sounds like you have a clogged injector. When the engine is misfiring, use a long screw driver and listen to each injector click by puting the end of the screw driver on the injector and the other to your ear. If the click on #3 is different then it is the injector. If not get a professional injector cleaning. On the off chance it may be a bad electrical connection to #3. Check that also. Good luck

I was driving on the highway the other day when out of nowhere my car began running really strange. It sounded allot louder then normal and almost had no power. I figured out that one of my cylinders did not seem to be firing and I was only running on three. I located which cylinder it was by pulling plug wires once at a time to see which one had no change in the engine idling. I determined it to be the 2nd one from the side where the distributor cap is on.

I also noticed that the spark plug for that cylinder was wet from fuel not being ignited. So I tried changing the plug wires which had no effect. I also changed the whole distributor cap and rotor as well but still there is not change. I noticed however that there seems to be electricity coming from the distributor on that pole, because when i put the wire close to it while disconnected I can see and hear a small spark of electricity. Now I'm totally puzzled as to what the problem could be, does anyone have an idea?

First of all is the spark normal at the cap compared to the other cylinders? Have you replaced the cap and rotor? Have you replaced the plug? It could have failed.