My engine has no spark can you help me fix it?

Test your ignition coil and ICM. Both are high failing items on hondas This guide can help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

already did and they passed, i was told i need to recode the car key since i changed the engine. i'm not sure if that will help since the key turns everything else on in the car. Just not getting spark ...???

I am trying to help out a grandma. Just wanted to know if top dead center/camshaft sensors both a and b no signal codes would result in a complete no spark situation. She has her grand kids living with her, been without a car for nearly a month and had hack mechanics tells her everything from needs a new computer to I do not even remember. After that they stop showing up. I am in the middle of an engine swap on my truck, do not have any tools not over with that project and I just want to at least give her the actual facts of her problem.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on both sensors being bad, yes the vehicle will not run. If you scan the computer and find a P1362 and P1367, chances are they are the issue for the no start.

To confirm the sensors are bad, back probe the harness to determine if there is a 5 volt signal. If there is, check the sensors for resistance. It should be between 1850 to 2450 Ohms of resistance. If it does not fall within the manufacturer's specs, replace them. I have actually found them often times to have no continuity.

I hope you find this helpful. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

PS: I attached a picture of sensor location if you need it.

It is getting fuel, but is not firing. I have replaced the coil and ignition module, but it will still not fire. What else can be the problem?

Hi gaskin73,

Are the dash indicator lights showing when ignition switch is turned to ON and while cranking?

Is voltage available at distributor Black/Yellow wire with ignition switch ON and while cranking?

Was any repairs carried prior to this happening?
Does the Check Engine Light shows for 2 seconds before going off when ignition switch is turned to ON?

This guide should help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Please run down this guide and report back.

Dash indicator lights comes on when car is switched on and when cranking

There is battery voltage at the distributor, Black/yellow wire

No repairs have been made

Check engine light has been on for years, EGR code

When did you last checked the CEL code? It could be the EGR but did you check if there were any new codes?

Are you getting sparks when cranking?

This car cranks over but there is no spark and no start. we have replaced the distributor, ignition coil and crank shaft position sensor with the same result itwill crank but will not start. Please help Angela

Get a test light and probe the negative side of the coil and crank engine over -is the test light blinking.

no the test light does not blink

Do you have battery voltage at coil positive terminal?

Yes, but no injection pulse, no fuel pump and no spark

Check and test the PGM-FI main relay then comeback

We replaced that too and it clicked but still no start. See the first problem with this car is that someone had taken it upon themselves to decide they were capable of adding alot of electronioc equipment and lots of new wires without taking into consideration what they were shorting out in the process. The only reason we have not given up is because it really is a nice car. But none of it makes sense.

No injection pulses/ignition/fuel -could mean computer

computer is functioning too.

When you turn key to run position -do you hear the fuel pump come On?

Well we found the problem. This is really embarassing but when we tested the fuses they tested good. What we failed to do is check for missing fuses. I will be sending my donation and really appriciate your help you have been extremely helpful. The fuel pump fuse was missing in fuse box. The fuse diagram was missing. On this car unfortunately it powers the EFI relay that powers the computer.

Angela

I have weak spark coming out of plug wires, tested coil wire it throws a big blue spark . I replaced plug wires, distributor, coil, main relay and still weak spark out of plug wires, checked all grounds- all good! Sometimes I go to crank it up and it fires off right away, go to restart it and back to weak spark! Any clue?

Hi Tyler,

Have you actually tested the coil? This is what is responsible for your spark strength. This is a spark amplifier so if you have a weak spark, it is the most likely cause.

I attached the procedure on how to test these. I have seen too many times when you get a coil out of the box and it fails almost immediately. You need to prove out the coil is ok even if it is new. Otherwise, we will be chasing out tails because we assume new parts are good parts.

https://youtu.be/1zQQy9noYQ0

Please let me know your resistance measurements and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

I don’t have my meter with me, if I check spark from coil it’s blue and strong, go to plug wires it’s very faint arc.

Okay. Just to get the progression. You have a hard start condition and you found weak spark on your plug wires. You traced it back and found strong spark at the coil. However, you replaced coil, distributor and wires. After you replaced this, it will start and run well. Then go to restart and it will not start again and you found weak spark again. Is this all true? Or do you find times when it does start and times it does not start?

If you have a strong spark at the coil but not at the plug wires, then you have high resistance somewhere from the distributor forward.

I am concerned about going with the look of the spark when doing these types of tests because it is subjective. Taking actual voltage measurements is much more definitive but with no meter, I get your approach.

Let's just start with us getting on the same page of the progression of this and go from there.

I replaced all the components being frustrated, sometimes the car fires right up and runs perfect, go to start it back up and back to little to no spark at wires.

Also it seems this happens only when the outside temperature and humidity is high, if I go out at night when it’s cooler it fires right up! Very confusing!

Okay. When you replaced the distributor was the ignition control module included?

Is there any chance that you have a lab scope? I know most people don't but I want to ask.

What I suspect is happening is the control module/igniter is the issue. This will actually mask the issue and make us blame the coil. The coil is responsible for building the primary spark and delivering the secondary but a faulty control module or igniter limits the amperage for the primary, then the coil delivers a weak spark.

Here is the test for the control module but I am hoping you have a scope so we can capture this. Thanks

I just read your last post. I copied a link here of another one that I am working. Seems like if we fix yours, we will fix the other or vice versa.

I will keep you posted on the other one. Very weird to have two identical vehicles with the same problem unless you posted this twice under a different name. :)

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/car-wont-start-all-the-time-2340567

May have been my girl. sorry

Haha! No problem. Just reply to this post then. That is kind of what I figured because that was very unlikely. Let me know about that lab scope and ignition control module and we can go from there.

I just found this video. This is a little lengthy but explains exactly what I am driving towards.

https://youtu.be/eoodIVGgGyw

I don’t have a scope, let me see if I can get my hands on one. also I noticed when cranking the car the tachometer doesn’t move with this weak spark condition.

1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl

I have a 96 honda accord lx that has no spark and no signal or codes enter the auto scanner. We have changed everything (distributer, map, coil, spark plugs, etc...) and the panel was also checked and it seems to be working. The car cranks, but does not start. Thanks

Hi willyq,

If any repair was carried out on the engine, then you need to check the ECM grounds at the thermostat housing.

Does the Check Engine Lamp shows for 2 seconds and goes of at initial ignition switch ON?
Is there battery voltage at the Black/Yellow wire of distributor with ignition switch ON and while cranking?
Are the dash lights showing while cranking?

That is great. I would be shocked if the ICM is not your issue. The ICM controls the tachometer as well, which I am sure you knew, and is why you mentioned it.

Here is your power flow for this system. Also, it has its own ground, I know you said you checked grounds but just want to make sure this is one that you checked.

Check out that video and let me know what you find. Thanks

I will check that and get back with you. thanks

i have this i replaced the distributor pick up coil and main relay and theres no spark

It can only be spark or fuel. If there is no spark at the spark plugs, Then check at the distr cap and the wire. If no spark there, Check your grounds and especially the Dizzy connectors. Then pull associated fuses and replace as necessary. The igniter inside the dizzy can go bad, the rotor button and cap can get corrosion in side there. I bet it is wiring. I bet it is the ground wire for the ECU that attaches to the intake manifold. It is about 3 wires together in one connector that gets a 10mm bolt through it. See if it is loose, If so, remove bolt, sand all contact surfaces and replace with tightness. Should start. If not, I will offer more with additional input.

this is the 4cyl injected engine. Helping my neighbors friend whose car stalled out front. He tells me that this has been going on for quite a while. Also that the car usually starts fine once its cooled off. I checked the honda boards and it seems others had had main relays issues.

The main relay was my first thought as well. I havent mapped out the electrical yet to the coil or the pump, looking for a wiring guide. Also looking for a wiring guide for the main relay as well.

The main relay would not result in loss of sparks. If sparks is missing, I would suggest checking the ignition switch.

Ensure you have battery voltage at the ignition coil while cranking.

It is pretty unusual to have a no spark and no fuel condition at the same time. Is your coil internal or external of the distributor? You can pull out the main relay and check for cracking solder joints inside to see if that might be your no fuel problem.

I have a crank no spark situation with no power to starter signal although the fuse is good. I tested the ignition coil and control module and replaced them but with no success.

I think there is fuel pressure since the fuel pump is fairly new, the starter solenoid is new, distributor is new, starter relay is new and the ignition wiring is new. I read something about the blue wire at the ignition area and I am not sure if that is the issue and I have been reading about the ground wires.

Any assistance to solve this issue will be highly appreciated.

Thanks