Timing belt replacement instructions please?

Hi Sharadendu,

As long as it uses a timing belt, it should be replaced according to the recommended mileage. Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your 4 cylinder.

Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/honda/accord/2000

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Right after I had my timing belt replaced I started noticing a couple similar noises. I couldn't take it back to the mechanic b/c I had it done out of town. The first noise comes when the engine is cold and I start the car. It lasts for a split second and sounds like a loose or bad belt. Its a high pitched screech. the second is very seldom. I've noticed it more in cold temeratures. It is the same sound except its prolonged, usually for about 5 seconds at least. I've discovered that if I turn my AC blower off the sound goes away. I have had all my belts checked, but they came back and said there is nothing wrong with them. I'm perplexed.

Hi chrisfarley,

The AC/Alternator belt is not correctly adjusted. For multiribbed belts, there is a tendency for misadjustment. I would recheck and adjust the belt again.

Do I need to change the timing belt? I understand that Honda recommends $100,000 or 7 years. However my mechanic is telling me that time (and weather) is not an issue because of some kind of protector for the timing belt. Any help would be appreciated. thank you

Yes! the timing belt is recommend every 7 years or 105k miles, better to be safe now then sorry later. If the timing belt breaks you will be ending up replacing the engine. There's no protector for the timing belt.

Fully stock components
Repair:
Timing belt replacement (first timer).
noticed no free movement of idler pulley? (Slick pulley located up and right of crankshaft)
Figured maybe with belt tension it couldn't be moved by hand.

Completed job
Upon start:
Loud growling from under timing belt covers.
Upon inspection and removal of covers that the engine alignment is now off.
Question: how do I correct the alignment of the engine? Any idea on cause of sound?

So the timing belt idler pulley was not turning with the belt tension on it? I would say that would be normal. Are you sure the cover was not rubbing? Also what exactly did you replace?

Thank you for the quick reply. My first thought was that the idler pulley has seized and there was too much tension on the belt making the sound. My next thought was that the timing belt is not pushed back quite enough and it is rubbing on the cover. Should I check anything else visually?

Any thoughts on the motor misalignment? I did loosen the passenger side motor mount and tried moving the motor with come along straps but I had no luck.

Is there a way to donate money for your assistance?

Thanks again.

That should have a automatic hydraulic tensor correct? Also when I replace the belt I only remove the top engine mount and never have any engine mount alignment issues. You never said the exact parts you replaced? I will find out how you can donate they were supposed to add a donation link on the questions.

Parts replaced: water pump, idler pulley, guide pulley (?), auto tensioner. Yes only the top mount but I am nervous about this misalignment around the alternator in this picture:

I cannot see the whole picture it is not coming up. You did not remove the old alternator did you? I never remove the alternator.

Sorry. And no I did not touch it.

And this one.

It is hard to tell from the pictures. Did you put floor jack under the engine to support the engine?

Yes with a piece of wood in between. I am afraid maybe I did not support it enough/correctly. I am used to my BMW's weak aluminum pan so I was a little hesitant. Can I fix that issue?

Without seeing more it really makes no sense to me that it wont line up from just removing that upper mount. I have done it that way on the Honda's v6 and 4 cylinder and never had a issue.What exactly is not lining up?

I am going to change the timing belt on this car and I was wondering what else to change. I know about the water pump. Does the tensioner need to be replaced even if it feels fine? What would be changed in the honda shop?

Hey Andy,

Hope this helps, I have a 2001 honda accord and this up coming week i am getting my timing belt changed, at the 105000 mi matinance, if you get this done at the dealership, you will get a complete belt change on everything, water pump change and spark plugs should be changed out as well. I would advise getting work done at the dealership, my cost for this is around 720.00 but do bare in mind that when do at the dealership you get a 12mth/12000mi warranty on those parts! hope this helps!

Got my timing belt, serpentine belts, and two engine mounts replaced at a local repair shop (was charged 650) yesterday...

Immediately after I took the car, it started making noises while steering (and I think the steering wheel vibrates with the sound, and the noise is louder when the vehicle is going slower/starting up)...the noise isn't always loud, but its worryingly loud many times, and constantly, there is a noise...

When I went back to the guy who made the repairs, he confirms the "steering wheel pump" is broken, and that it has nothing to do with the repairs (of course!)...he says he will change the pump for the cost of the part only (no labor)...

According to Mitchell, all they removed was the belt to replace the timing belt.If it didnt make the noise before hand you can try to get him to cover the entire cost, bu the probably wont.What does the noise sound like? is it a schreeching noise? check the belt tension to be sure it is ok first and that it isnt low on fluid

Thanks for the response, Jack!

The power steering pump fluid is full...

By "belt tension", which belt is being referred to?

Also, how much would the pump cost (just the part, without labor costs)?

The noise is coming from inside the pump (I put my ear to a screwdriver touching the pump, and could hear the vibration noise when a friend moved the steering wheel), its an annoying buzz of sorts, with vibration on the steering wheel...the noise is distinctly louder when I turn the wheel/car, but I would like to think there is a humming vibration on the steering wheel even when I am driving straight...

I Do know only the timing belt was changed, and not the water pump or the cam/crankshaft seals...he showed me the vehicle when he had "opened it up", and he clearly showed/said that the pump and the seals were very dry and very good, and that there was no need to have them changed (which is against convention, I guess, but I am not sure the convention is all that correct, since its only the timing belt Honda recommends for a change, and not the water pump or seals, also the charges tend to mount for a "timing belt package deal", which does not go lower than 600 anywhere for a V6 2000 Accord)...

In addition, the serpentine belts were changed, and I can see that the engine mounts have been replaced too, though I dont know if that could cause the problem...

The belt tension on the pump. If th enoise is coming directly from the pump, it may be bad.Looks like that pump is almost $400.00, the labor guide only pays .9 to replace it (just under 1 hour)

Thanks for the response...

I have a quote of 230 for replacing the power steering pump (re-manufactured, and the guy is charging me for the part only)...

Also, I think I am hearing a murmur in the engine, starting yesterday evening (I drove the car over 150 miles after the timing belt change, before I heard the murmur)...

The murmur is faint, and goes away once I accelerate the car...but if its not moving (either in drive or park), I can hear the faint murmur...

Is it something I need to be worried about?

May just be a belt that is a little too tight, I wouldnt worry

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 116k miles

A major brand name auto repair shop offered to price match a quote that I had to replace my timing belt 6 months ago. The engine failed the other day and I was told that while it was their usual policy, my pulleys were not replaced at the time. Since they have pretty well admitted that it was a failure on their part not to replace the pulleys, they are now offering to replace the engine for the cost of labor - about 1k and offering a 12 month warranty. I am concerned that 1. they might botch the engine replacement, 2. I shouldn't be charged for their mistake and 3. what are the odds of another major failure such as a transmission because of an engine replacement? I was planning to keep the car for at least another 100K and now I may be stuck with a lemon since it is unsellable. What course of action would you suggest?

If they admited that it was there fault, I would make them responsible for labor too. Also, as far as them hurting the transmission, the only thing they do is unbolt it from the engine. They don't have to take anything apart with it.

Just for curiosity, how much are they charging you for labor? How many hours are they charging you. I can let you know what the flat rate (how many hours) the book calls for so you are sure they are not taking advantage of you with labor. I've seen shops cover the cost of the engine by only charging labor.

Regardless, if they give you a 12 month warranty, I would feel confident that if they do something wrong, it would happen within that time.

Also, are they replacing it with a new engine or one from a salvage yard? Have you tried to demand they cover labor too? How did they respond?

Remember, if they admit it was their fault but refuse to fix it, you can take legal action. You may want to mention that to them to shake them up.

Let me know.
Joe

Dear friend whoever you are,

I am a GRANDmother. And a GRAND mother. And a GRAND wife; not necessarily in that order. These people of whom I adore seem to feel the same way about me. I am 65 y/o. My dearly loved husband is 75 y/o. I have survived two late staged cancers over the past 10 years. He has survived open heart surgery and prostate cancer. We are both in full remission now, and doing well. Sorry for "playing" the cancer card. I do so to elicit your compassion (not pity), and your sound/honest guidance. My poor husband of 47 years can't even hang a picture on the wall without screwing it up. He, like many other men (sorry guys)refuses to ask for directions when we are clearly lost, and he also insists on diagnosing any problems dealing with my "most precious" 2000 Honda Accord. I have been feeling A LOT of anxiety lately. We live on not enough money to live on! I am an intelligent and educated woman who worked three jobs BECAUSE I loved my work (college professor and private therapist working with youth at high risk for dropping out of school). I cannot work because I cannot get hired with my health history. It is horrible and I could never prove that my history of cancer is the reason I don't ever land the job. It's always the same response when I call for an update; "Sorry, but that position has been filled." SO! Here it goes(guys), assuming that you know more about cars than my female counterparts. I have 96,000 miles on my 11 y/o Honda Accord. Low mileage thank God!I have had NO major work done (or preventative work). Regular oil changes and whatever the small stuff is that goes along with the standard oil change at a Jiffi Lube. No other "recommended" mileage milestones. Only new tires. Because of our financial BURDEN - and it won't change, I am HORRIFIED of blowing out my engine because I didn't replace the timing belt & water pump when I should have: Questions.

1. Should I buy those two parts (from a Honda dealer)or somewhere else?

2. If I have an honest guy who knows what he is doing and will do it for less money than the manufacturer, should I let this guy do the work (of course I wouldn't have a warranty)? And does the Honda mechanic who works on site give me a warranty on this work? And is it pretty much "a given" that the Honda "on site" repair garage will not rip me off?

3. How much money is too much to pay for this job?

4. Should I ask the privant party (mechanic) up front to give me the old parts just to check them out regarding the condition they were in at the time I had them replaced?

5. Because I keep getting what feels like some kind of premonition, what is the most important thing for me to do? Basically - is the red flag in my mind reality based?

6. Pretend I am your mother, your daughter, your sister (if you love them) and give me some really sound advice. I am SO vulnerable (because I know nothing about cars and upkeep) and have such a lack of trust in people for so many reasons (sadly); some of which deals with being terribly ripped off by a mechanic who supposedly fixed my husband's car. Bad bad situation, and we could not do anything except to pay more money to have it done correctly (one year before my first cancer). Our health problems and medical expenses backrupted us. We lost our home and every dime of savings. We can't even afford certain medications because they are not yet in the generic form.

7. Thank you to those who will read this long-sounding sob story, as I am counting on your empathy and assistance.

8. At this time in my life six-hundred dollars feels like six-thousand. But if the six-hundred helps to "save my car" then that's what I need to know. Please please help me and send your words of advice to my email address. That way I don't have to worry about not being able to find this post (I became a member one hour ago).

9. To those who respond, let me thank you in advance; thank you from the bottom of my old heart (I am not one of the old folks "yet" who really need to be takin' the bus as a protection to their fellow citizens)!

Good wishes and cheers to all of you.

GRANDmotherocks (according to my GRANDchildren)
is my "handle" or screen name). My email address is [email protected]

SOS

Hi GRANDmotherocks,

Thank you for the reading material. We have something in common here, we both are workaholics. Though I am not a grandfather yet, maybe in a few years time, but I am no more that young, though to old to be your son.

Lets se what we can do about your questions.

MANUFACTURER'S SUGGESTED SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE
Normal replacement interval is at 105,000 miles or 84 months. Replace at 60,000 miles if vehicle is regularly driven in extreme temperatures (over 110 degrees F, or under -20 degrees F).

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

Above are suggested timing belt replacement schedules so now is the correct time to get them done as the age of the belt is already long overdue.

1. There are quite a numbe of after market parts available at parts outlets and they should come much cheaper than from the dealer. Don't go for those extremely cheap ones as they would not last half as long as OEM. Apart from the timing belt, there is the balancer belts and tensioners. The valve cover gasket, bushes, plug seals, camshaft and crankshaft seals is recommended to be replaced at the same time as they should be worn as well.

2. If the guy knows what he is doing, then yes, you can go to him but he should give you a warranty on the job, unless he is not sure of what he id doing. If you are looking for references, go to major parts stores and ask around for recommendations. If more than two places recommends a certain mechaninc, he should be ok.

3. Book time for replacement of timing belt and water pump is listed at around 4 hours. Rates differs region to region so you should ask the mechanic his labor rates. I am not based in the US so I am not sure of prevailing rates and understand it ranges from $75 to $ 120 per hour depending on area.

4. It is good to understand the replaced parts condition and telling the mechanic that you want to have a look at the parts is ok. Get him to explain the condition and his opinion, that would make him feel that his opinion is valued.

5. The time for the work is ripe and your woman's intuition should be correct.

6. I always give my honest opinion to whoever I deal with and is always sad when I hear of people who gets ripped off by mechanics. Those who do it are the black sheep of the industry and that is one of the reaon for our site here, to help people understand how to go about and avoid being taken for a ride.

7. I know how it is to be struggling with a tight purse string. Not all mechanics are making tons of money, unless I am the exception.

8. You would be notified automatically when a post is made so no worries about that but sometimes the notification goes to the spam folder depending on your settings.

9. You're welcome. Hope what I have for you is helpful.

Have a nice day and let me know if you require anything further by replying to this post.

how do i set my balance shaft so the motor will stop vibrating

Hi finallyfree09, The diagram shows the markings. The first diagram show where a bolt should be removed to insert a bolt for holding the balancer shaft.

Interior problem
1999 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 103k miles

Hi,

I'm planning to get the Timing Belt and Water Pump replaced on my 1999 Accord, 4cyl/4Dr, EX. It has 103k miles on it.

I will probably buy Genuine Honda parts online and get them replaced by a local mechanic. Just to save a few hundred dollars :).

My question is .. what parts should/need to be replaced along with Timing belt and Water pump? For ex, any other belts, seals, tensioner etc?

Can you please provide a recommended list?

thanks

Hi indy49, List of things I would recommend. 1. Timing belt and tensioner bearing. 2. Balancer belt and tensioner bearing. 3. Water pump. 4. Camshaft oil seal 5. Front Balancer shaft oil seal 6. Crankshaft oil seal 7. Rear Balancer oil seal and O ring. 8. Alternator/AC belt 9. Power steering belt 10. Valve cover gasket, bushes and plug seals.

Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual

timing belt broke. now forsure camshaft and crankshaft is not at TDC/aligned. What step do I need to take in order to have camshaft and crankshaft at TDC together before installing the belt. how do I get the cam and crank to aligned just if the belt was never broken.

Hi jayrolx3,

If the timing belt did not break but the belt has skipped a few tooth, that could mean bad news. The valves would most probably be damaged.

Before turning anything, get the valve cover, crankpulley and timing belt cover off first.

To turn and align crankshaft, being a manual trans, it is rather easy. Jack up the driver side front wheel, engage 4th gear and turning the front wheel would allow you the turn the crankshaft.

Turn the crankshaft at least 30 degrees away from TDC before attempting to turn the camshaft, which can be done by turning the cam sprocket. Removing the spark plugs would make turning easier.

Before proceeding with anything else, check the valve clearances. If any clearances are excessive, the valve is bent.

After aligning the cam shaft, turn crankshaft to TDC and disengage the gear. This is to prevent accidental turning of the crankshaft.

I have changed the timing belt, balance belt, water pump and the 2 tensioners and i have a squealing noise from my timing belt area. I know its not my power steering or my altenator and A/C belts because i had them off and still made the same noise. the only thing left is the oil pump and the balance shaft. what should i do

Is the tensioners properly installed? The timing belt or balance shaft belt could be rubbing against the timing belt covers. Only way to know is to remove the timing belt covers for inspection.

I've got a 98 Honda Accord. I'm looking to change my timing belt and my water pump as well. While I was doing that, I was looking to change my hoses too. About how much should I be looking to spend on something like this?

I put the work at around 4-5 hours. The parts might run near $200 but they could be more if they are Honda genuine parts.

My one suggestion is to replace the tensioner pulley as well. I strongly recommend that for replacement. That item takes a lot of abuse in there and they can start to wear ever so slightly and squeek.