hard to start

Hello,

This sounds like you have a engine coolant sensor that needs to be replaced here is a guide that will walk you through the steps and the location of the sensor in the diagrams below.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

this guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.

You helped me so much!! thank you :) all fixed cost me $34.00 for the sensor.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

i actually had this very same problem. and after doing a complete tune up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter oil and coolant flush it stopped. also my main relay didnt always want to work. hope that helps!

Every day i try to start my car it takes me a long time to get it started and then when i do it takes awhile to get it to go... but after i get it started and get it going it does ok. what can this be?

Start by checking the fuel pressure if its within specs-could be low

I have 96 Honda accord LX 2.2 L . the car runs fine however when weather is cold specialty in the morning the car has long crank time about 3 second. when the car is warm it crank very quick . could you tell me what could be the causes of that?

thank you so much

Check coolant temperature sensor and fuel pressure also go here for more information: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

ive got a 94 honda accord lx..and sometimes its extremely hard to crank and sometimes its not...but when it is hard to start the only way i can get it to start is if i keep turning the ignition over and pumping the gas..then the car shakes bad until you take it out of park and start driving?

Symptoms indicates a possible PGM-FI main relay which are known to intermittently fail. When this occurs, the D4 indicator and/or Check Engine Light might not turn off after 2 seconds when ignition is turned on.

I have the same problem but when I drive over 70 mile and parkand then it started right up sometime to get it started I have to take the number one spark plug wire out and then it will start and cut off then I put the wire back on and it starts right up I have changed the relay the main relay twice check engine light come on sometimes sometimes it don'tdo you know anyone that have a ob1 scandal and Pennsylvania Pittsburgh

By the way I checked the fuel injectors they all find good I change the fuel filter and the pump running fine like I said I change the main relay so what could be the problem you think it's the vacuum relay

I also change fuel pressure regulator it's still hard to start until I drive by 80 miles and park the car it doesn't matter for how long it far is start right up and the check engine light me off someone please help us with this problem

Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Honda Accord 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 229xxx miles
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Hello everyone. My name is Daniel and i have a 1990 Honda Accord Ex 2.2 FI engine. Recently When i drive my car for awhile and park, then come back to start it again, The car struggles to start. Like it has no gas. like a typical winding sound. At first i thought it was the O2 sensor since the Check engine light code said it was bad. i figured it wasn't Mixing the air and fule correctly. But that did not correct the problem. At First it would start after a couple of times, but now it takes much longer. Could it be a bad Fule pump or do those just go out suddenly? or possibly something electrical rather than gas related that went wrong. So basically my question is what could the problem Possibly be?

Hi Daniel,

Is is difficult to say what is the cause since you did not test for spark or fuel to isolate the problem.

However the symptom coincides with a faulty main relay so I would suggest checking that first. It is both electrical and fuel, an electrical fault not allowing fuel to be pumped.

thanx for the advice. I went ahead bought the relay and i am installing it right now. Im pretty sure thats what it is because the old one had a bunch of coroded solder spots on the circuit board. I'll post how it went when Done. Thanx again

Hi guys. I have a '92 Honda Accord that I recently replaced the head on. It was warped and leaking compression into the water jacket. I ordered a re-man head and put it on with a Fel-pro Perma-torque head set. followed a honda issued repair manual. I have replace head,head gasket. cap, rotor, plugs, wires battery and run compression test. all cylinders test out around 180 to 195 lbs. car ran fine for about 3 weeks then started getting hard to start again. had to hold accelerator pedal all the way open and then it would start, after much cranking and rough idle. once it started it would idle very roughly for about 30 seconds then smooth out and run fine. car warms up to operating temp very quickly, usually within a mile or so of driving. builds pressure in cooling system when running and pushes coolant out of overflow. what could be causing this?

chekc to see if you have a bad thermostat and check your fuel pressure it may be low.

You could have a bad head gasket again. did you check the block surface? Quite often the block surface is bad as well when the head gasket goes bad.

Recheck the compression. Have a leak down test performed as well.

My 1993 Honda Accord is very hard to start when it cold. When I starts it, the idle continue to go up and down. I had the 02 sensor and the max air valve change out and it still does the same thing. The check engine light is also on.

Check and clean IAC and EGr valve, if so equipped. Check timing. See if it fluctuates.

What is the trouble code for the MIL indicating?

Do you have coolant losses issues?
Check the coolant hoses to IAC and FITV and ensure they are not clogged.

As to difficult starting in morning, have the fuel pressure tested. Try turning the ignition ON for 2 seconds and then off. Repeat 2 or 3 times then start. If it starts esily, you have a fuel pressure problem.

1990 Honda Accord DX mileage 99,000. Occasionally the car is difficult to start. What should be done for a "tune-up?

It sounds like you are due for a major tune-up. Replace spark plugs and plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel and air filter. Fuel injection should be serviced by cleaning throttle bore and idle passage.

the was starting but it took two or more tries after that it would fine till the next day. everyday it took a little longer,now it acts like it want to run but wont fire. i change the cap coil and rotor with no result.also i had the timing belt replaced last year in march.

I need you to check three things. I need you to check for spark, fuel pressure, and engine compression. I'm asking for the compression due to the mileage. Here are the how to's for checking:

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Electrical problem
1995 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My Honda want start after a good rain. When it is hot and dry it will start just fine. Noticed that when this happens the drive light is flashing......

Hi djpeterb, Symptoms described is most probably caused by a faulty PGM-FI main relay that is intermittently malfunctioning. Remove the relay and resolder the circuit board and it should solve the problem.

Changed main relay. Did not work

Did you use a new or used relay?

When D4 light is blinking and starting is impossible, it usually is the main relay or its circuit. The worse case scenario would be the engine computer.

Did you check the main relay circuit board?

I find it difficult to run the car in the morning in cold weather. When I lift my foot off the gas pedal the engine stops.

if fuel injected clean throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner. if carburetor have it checked for sticky choke and or worn out and needing rebuild. replace fuel filter in both cases.

Under wet conditions, I have to crank the engine for one minute. Big backfires (my exhaust exploded) occur while the engine cranks. Finally the engine starts but a lot of miss fire happens. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, the distributor and rotor and checked the compression (ok). No check engine appears and all the problems are disappearing under dry conditions.

i had a problem with a honda accord and i did everything u have done change the computer i believe it under the upper corner in the passager side get a used one from a salvage yard .i changed the computer and it solve my problem.

Hi, It's a 95 Honda Accord 4cyl at 170K miles. Problem started last winter where the car would crank and crank but would not start whenever there was a lot of moisture in the air. Only after the outside temp went up and all the dew had evaporated would it start. Replaced the distributer cap and gasket. Now, same problem: Car will crank and crank but never start. More symptoms include: check engine light comes on but never extinguishes. With the key in the ON position, after 15 seconds the D4 light will flash at a 2 htz rate indefinately. I can't hear the fuel pump running and the main relay does click when I place the ignition swith in ON. I reset the ECU by removing the fuse and waiting one minute. All efforts have not changed the symptoms. I can't find the diagnostic connector to jumper it and get codes. Thanks for the help!

We need to get that gas to make it all the way to the injectors. Get a helper, find the fuel pump connector check for voltage at black and yellow wire, when key is in On position-Do you have it? If so direct power the pump from the battery-did it come On? If not its defective. Get this done and comeback

[quote:970bc01d92="rasmataz"]find the fuel pump connector check for voltage at black and yellow wire, when key is in On position-Do you have it? Get this done and comeback[/quote:970bc01d92]

I'd like to but, from the online forums that I've been reading, they say that I can access the fuel pump under the back seat/driver side. I just pulled up my backseat and no access panel there. Also, non in the trunk. How do I access the fuel pump to get the voltages off of the connector? Thanks for your time.

Thanks again for your time. It finally warmed up enough here in Rhode Island for the car to start (I'm active duty Navy for 18 years now and am up here temporarily with not too many tools at my access) My symptoms changed though. I heard the main relay close like normal but this time, heard a relay close simulltaneous with the check engine light extinguishing and heard a relay when the SRS light went out. Never heard the fuel pump this time though but the car runs just fine. Still odd (to me) though with the cold weather symptoms.

You're in the wrong place and time lol. Find every wire connector you can find upfront make sure its tight and clean. also the power distribution box.

You got 2 more years and its over hang in there-You probably been around the world five different times huh! Adventure

Good Luck

Sounds like you might have a a bad igniter or ignition coil. I would go with Honda parts on this, aftermarket has been a problem. We ran into this, coil was more typical.

I never joined any of the forces although I came close. I have a helluva respect your types.