engine missing/idling rough

1995 HONDA ACCORD
110,000 MILES • 4 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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RADTODD1
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Where to start. I have two huge holes in my radiator and it leaks bad. I have been VERY cautious and stop frequently to fill it with water. The temperature has never gone into the red nor even 3/4. I would keep my trips short and again very cautious until I had the money to buy a new radiator (which now I have and about to put in). Anyway, out of the blue the other day I went to start my car...and then and since then it idles rough and sounds like it is missing or running on 3 instead of 4 cylinders. It idles really rough and low at a stop...almost like it's going to stall out. However, there is no apparent loss of power...as quick as ever when I give it a good amount of gas. Also, it seems to run fine like it did before once it is fully warmed up. I have no white smoke or water out the exhaust (though now a real strong or rich smell) and no water in my oil. I have yet to check my spark plugs or anything else. Is this a head gasket gone bad or something more minor (I hope). Anyway input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Todd
Jul 14, 2010 at 10:52 PM
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RASMATAZ
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Sometimes when something is leaking when engine is cold and when the engine comes up to normal temperature it seals itself, same as vacuum it will transfer vacuum when cold but not hot thru a thermal switch

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

In your case like the oxygen sensor it has to be heated up to 600F in order for it to function correctly to control the air and fuel mixture
Jul 16, 2010 at 3:08 AM
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MKIRKSY3
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I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX 5-speed 2.2, with 95000 miles. I been having rough idling problems. I check the sparks to see if that was the problem, the spark plugs was okay but one cylinder was working. I changed the fuel injector on the same cylinder and follow all the steps regarding the fuel pressure and things of that nature. The cylinder still wasn't still giving any power or fire. I don't know what else to do to figure out the problem. Do any one have any recommendations?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Check the compression and valve clearance.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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MKIRKSY3
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how is that done?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Check above link.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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MKIRKSY3
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I did the compression test and all the cylinders even the bad one was around 150PSi. The cylinder is still not firing or misfiring. i took the spark plug out and it was black on the end of it, the other spark plugs was kind of white. There is oil on the bottom of the distributor cap, but no oil inside.. not sure where that leak is coming from. I also changed the fuel injector on that one cylinder. When i first start the car, it idle fine until it heat up to normal temp. not sure what else to do. could it be a sensor or something.. maybe computer not responding.. i dont know
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Did you check the valve clearances?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Did you test the plug wires?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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MKIRKSY3
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How is a valve clearance check is done? the plug wire are pretty good?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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94HONDAACCORD
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One morning last week, I get in my car to go to class and it starts like it always does and everything seems normal. the night before it was running fine too. upon pulling out of my driveway, i noticed that it kind of began to stutter, but i pushed down the gas pedal more and as the RPM's picked up the stuttering/bogging went away. It only did that during take off from a stopped position and did that all the way to class, which is about 6 miles. On my way back home, it still did the stuttering/bogging thing, but it was still drivable. Later on, i decided to go to the store to get some fuel injector cleaner, but my car began stuttering/bogging down so badly that it came to a stop on the side of the road. After a few attempts at starting it again with no luck, i popped the hood and noticed the cat. converter was glowing red hot. I waited 15 minutes for it to cool down and was able to start my car and make it about 2 miles before it bogged down to a complete stop again, but this time there was no waiting and going again. I had it towed home. I probably went about 30 miles with it in the stuttering bogging condition before it wouldn't go no more. I put new plugs in, a new dis. cap, new rotor button, new catalytic converter, and a new radiator. My old radiator developed a crack in it a week earlier. I am also having a new water pump installed, timing belt, balance belt, valve cover gasket, and fuel filter installed this coming up weekend. I have a feeling none of that will fix ti though because i loosened the fuel line going into the fuel rail and gas was flowing thru it pretty good, so i doubt a new fuel filter will help, but it can't hurt. Also, while sitting in my car and lightly pushing the gas to keep it idling, it vibrates badly and sounds like a 4 stroke motorcycle. It reminds me of a diesel engine the way it acts when im running the engine trying to figure out whats wrong. I checked the CEL codes and it flashed 43, which is a fuel supply system error. When i turn my key to the II position, i can hear my fuel pump kick on for about 2 seconds, so i don't think it is the fuel pump. I've cleaned the EGR and PCV valves, but that only slightly helped the idle when im pressing the gas pedal. Turning the Ac or anything on makes the engine die. It sounds as if it is producing no power. I have an AEM adjustable timing gear and when i advanced the timing 5 deg., it began to slightly run better, so maybe just the timing is off? I have a magnaflow exhaust, new magnaflow cat. converter, AEM lightweight pulleys, AEM adjustabel cam gear, Bosch 2 plat plug, cold air intake, and Moroso plug wires that are 5 years old. everything but the plugs and cat. converter i've had on my car for around 5 years, so i doubt they are any problem. Maybe my wires are old? They appear to be giving spark to each plug because i took each wire off while it was idling and i saw sparks jump to the valve cover from each wire. When i first parked my car in the driveway with this problem, my gas gauge showed 3/4 of a tank of gas, but now it's down to about an 1/8th of a tank for some reason. I see no gas leaks around the gas tank, but maybe an injector is leaking because there is an unburnt gas smell while the engine is running. My 02 sensor is only about 4 years old, so i don't think it would be a problem. My car does burn a little bit of oil because of a bad gasket somewhere that was a factory recall that i never got a letter about. Also, my water pump did go out 2 weeks prior to this happening and that is why i am having a new one put in. There is no sign of water or gas in my oil, but i do notice water slowly dripping from under where my water pump is. I am clueless as to what the problem could be. Has anyone else had a simliar problem or have a solution or any ideas?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Hi 94hondaaccord,

When the catalytic converter is running red hot, a major misfiring has occurred and unburnt fuel is getting to it. This would turn it red hot when running.

You need to check what is causing the misfiring.
1. Spark plugs and related parts.
2. Injectors.
3. Compression.
Above are the common reasons for misfiring.

How long have you had the adjustable cam sprockets installed?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Did you ohm out the plug wires? Looks does not show anything if there are internal breakages. You need an ohmmeter to test the resistance. There must be resistance and below 25k ohms.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7wI4EtZSaA
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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DELACRUZJ
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Ok, my question is similar to the one you all got May 06, 2010. Car starts up fine, but about 3 days ago it started sputtering. No warning what-so-ever. At first I thought it may have been some bad gas. And it still could be. Since then I have changed the Fuel Filter as well as Spark Plugs. They looked ok, had a little oil on the outer threads but nothing to cause concern. Car still sputters alot, just not as bad. Car starts up just fine. Sputtering starts about 5 minutes later. I have seen comments online about OS sensor, or perhaps distributor. And I was thinking if it was the fuel injector(s) it would have gradually started... right?? So... do you have any ideas. I don't want to put a lot of money into the car. I just need it to continue running for as long as it will do so. I just need to know how to fix it so that I won't buy unneccessary parts. Has 186k miles. Please help. Thanks
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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--Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testin
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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FANGUS503
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After the radiator in my car failed by springing a leak in the top, the engine no longer undergoes the typical warmup procedure. It sticks at 2000 rpm until I press the gas pedal. Then, it revs from 1250 to 2000 in 1 second intervals, constantly. It sounds kind of like an incessant "vroom... vroom... vroom..." I noticed that the throttle body lever doesn't move at all. The governor doesn't actuate, and the tank is half full.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Hi fangus503,

If the coolant level is low, the fast idle thermo valve would not operate correctly and this would result in the surging.

Bleeding of system must be done correctly to eliminate this problem.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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VAJ4378
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105K miles - Manual Transmission.

Engine runs rough at idle, especiall with A/C on -- steering wheel shake while at a stop.

Relpaced sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, added fuel injector treatement to fuel tank, checked vacuum at idle -- 20 pounds at idle and rock solid -- no fluctation indicating a valve or valve adjustment issue.

Exhaust seems to run rich at idle -- black suiet in tail pipe and rich smell.

Wonder if I should remove and clean fule injectors, or is there some other gizmo that I should check. Oxygen sensor maybe???

Help!

I want my mommy...

-Steve
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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FISHERMAN
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[quote:2f0ff4eceb="vaj4378"]105K miles - Manual Transmission.

Engine runs rough at idle, especiall with A/C on -- steering wheel shake while at a stop.

Relpaced sparkplugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, added fuel injector treatement to fuel tank, checked vacuum at idle -- 20 pounds at idle and rock solid -- no fluctation indicating a valve or valve adjustment issue.

Exhaust seems to run rich at idle -- black suiet in tail pipe and rich smell.

Wonder if I should remove and clean fule injectors, or is there some other gizmo that I should check. Oxygen sensor maybe???

Help!

I want my mommy...

-Steve[/quote:2f0ff4eceb]

Hello !!
I would check the IAC (idle air control valve) that`s responsible for the idle with and without load..
Remove it and clean it...
that could be the problem also check the EGR and be sure that the passages are clean and free of carbon..


Good Luck!
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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SCOTTIEBOY85
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I started up my car and it ran fine. Drove it for about 10 mins with no problems. Turned it off when i went to a store and started it up after about 15 mins. Ran fine for about 10 mins. Was doing about 55 mph and slowed to about 35 mph in town and it started to sputter. Feels like its misfiring but im not sure.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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F4I_GUY
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Do a cylinder balance test, you might find one or more cylinders are acting up.

Some possible causes are:
-Ignition fault (spark plug or spark plug wire)
-Faulty injector, dirty injector
-Mechanical fault (bent valve)
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:36 AM (Merged)
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GAYLENE
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Engine Performance problem
1992 Honda Accord Front Wheel Drive Automatic 182000 miles

182,000 approx. I've been to 5 shops and one said it was the egr valve and wanted $350. . . the other shops had no idea what the problem was caused from - rough idle when stopped and makes a clicking noise - the gauge needles used to bounce when it clicked but the distributor was replaced and that solved the needles bouncing but not the clicking noise. sorry, can't give a donation until my s.s. check comes ...
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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F4I_GUY
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If 3 shops said it's the EGR valve, then why haven't you replaced it already? It can very well be the EGR valve.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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GAYLENE
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[quote:f719493ce9="F4I_guy"]If 3 shops said it's the EGR valve, then why haven't you replaced it already? It can very well be the EGR valve.[/quote:f719493ce9]

I didn't say THREE shops said it was the egr valve - I said ONE shop told me that and cleaned it and it made no difference . . . geeze, give me some credit!! Thanks for yiour time.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MFULLING23
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Went to parking garage after not driving my car for a week or two as I am in college and car started, but the rpm's were jumping, but once it heated up, it settled at normal idle speed. When I went to drive the car, and held the gas at 1500 rpm's the car was very jerky...

I went to pull out of the lot after driving for a few minutes and the car stalled as i was leaving the stop sign. The car would not restart and it smelled as if something was burning...when i tried to restart the car, it puffed out of the tailpipe in...well...little puffs, tried to start but would not stay running. The exhaust was normal color, etc. just not coming out right. I checked the PCV valve and it seems to be ok.

The gas may be three weaks old, and i was told that after sitting out when it gets cold (20's to 30's at night) it could have formed condensation in the gas or something to that extent or even that the gas could have gone bad. Any ideas???
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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BRUCE HUNT
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I assume that the car ran great up to the parking. So, I suggest an additive to the fuel to see if perhaps you have some bad gas and treat that get that tank through and add new gas. If that does not help too much then I might suggest looking at the EGR valve. Take it off, clean & inspect it.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MFULLING23
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Since the engine was obviously not firing right I started at the basics, first checking for fuel, and then air...all of which i had.

I popped off the distributor cap to find a fine powder or some kind of dust on the inside of it that was covering the points, etc. The only thing i can assume is that the inner shield between the rotor button and the distributor that bolts to the engine had a piece break off and started to disintigrate into a powder causing the engine not to run.

Well, after cleaning it out and accidentally breaking the clip on the rotor button (and having to get a new one; about $6) the car ran as it did before i had the problem. :mrgreen:
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MOLSONCANADIAN
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Hi there, I have a Honda accord, and when it warms up or trying to shift from park to reverse it starts to shake vigorously like its about to have a piston stop working or something,the RPM falls well under 800 and the oxy sensor has died out twice, does any one know the cause of all this?

I have a feeling that the shaking when the idle is warm is the result of a bad PCV valve, could this be it?

But I have no clue whats causing the oxygen sensor to die off so quickly, I'm not using any heavy-duty additives or anything.

I need this fixed before the engine stalls and causes more problems, everything else on the engine seems to be fine, but I did do a tune up, but did not do any adjustments, can you please show me how to them them if there are any mandatory?

Thanks a million in advance!
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MOLSONCANADIAN
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Hi I just changed the PCV Valve, but no difference, although there was oil in PCV valve and no rattle.

Thanks,
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Did this happen before the tune up? Or has problem occurred after the tune up? What was replaced during the tune up?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MOLSONCANADIAN
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It started happening last week, i tuned up a month ago: plugs, wires, filters, distributor, rotor.

now for some reason it starts to vibrate when warm engine and between change gears, (ex. R -->D, etc.)

and there was some oil in clogged PCV valve, you think I should get the throttle bore cleaned?, Please show me a diagram of how to, if I should.
Thanks, Molsoncanadian.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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is the service(check) engine light on?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MOLSONCANADIAN
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Nope, but it was on when the oxygen sensor died for the second time, but I got it fixed, it turned on after about the first 5-10 min of driving, but now i got the CEL cleared-out of the way.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Best and easiest way to clean throttle body is with spray TBI cleaner. Check the idle air control valve on the side of it and remove any carbon in it with the spray cleaner.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MOLSONCANADIAN
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Will WD-40 work or anything else sitting in the garage?
I got a carburetor cleaner (spray)
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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MERLIN2021
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Use only throttle body cleaner, carb spray may strip off the teflon coating and cause more problems.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:37 AM (Merged)
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LOGANSWOODS
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Engine Performance problem
1990 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 165k miles

I have done a basic tune up on the car and replaced the valve cover gasket. The car idles rough when in any gear but park and neutral. It idles and runs fine when moving. If I sit at a light very long in gear the car looses power after starting to accelerate. The engine is running but the car just coasts. Giving it gas has no reaction. Usually it eventually picks back up and goes after a few seconds. I have been shifting to neutral when stopped so that it does not idle rough. The car is automatic.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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Hi loganswoods,

What is the idling speed in neutral and D?
Do you have hesitation problem?
Is the Check Engine Lamp showing?
Did you adjust the valve clearance during the tune up?
Do you have any overheating problem?
Any repairs done prior to this happening?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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LOGANSWOODS
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The idle speed in neutral is about 750.
The idle speed in drive is about 725.
There is no hesitation problem unless the car is cold.
The only lamp on is the Brake Light.
The Check Engine light is not on.
I did not adjust the valve clearance. Just plugs, fuel filter, cap, rotor button. The plug wires looked good.
There is no overheating problem.
The previous owner stated no repairs other than routine maintanence.

If you don't warm the car up to operating temp. before shifting to drive or reverse, it will almost always die or have the hesitation/ no power problem.
But even after warming up, it has a rough idle when in gear and sitting still. Once moving there is no excessive vibration.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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KHLOW2008
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The vibration seems to be from the engine mounts. The hesitation durng cold mean the plug wires might not be good. Get the wires ohmed, they should have continuity with not more than 25 k ohms resistance.

Did you check the ignition timing?
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)
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LOGANSWOODS
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I was already suspecting the engine mounts as the problem with the vibration but I am not sure which one needs replaced. I had someone watch the engine as I went from neutral to reverse then forward. They said it shifts forward and back quite a bit. So I am guessing that it is probably the rear motor mount. According to the manual it is fluid filled. I may have to pay someone to replace that.

I checked the wires with a Fluke and got omh's readings ranging from 920 - 2500. I will replace the wires over the weekend. I just assumed that they were good judging by their experior condition but I guess the interior can deteriorate also.

Thanks for your help.
Apr 20, 2020 at 10:38 AM (Merged)