speedometer does not work?

Hi dbramblett,

Both meters are electrically operated.

Vehicle Speed Sensor is located on transaxle housing below the thermostat housing.

Tachometer receives its signal from the distributor and it could be a wiring, meter cluster or ignition coil fault.

I took the car to a mechanic because the transmission was leaking badly and the timing belt needed changing. He fixed the trans by tightening some bolts, and replaced timing belt, water pump, spark plugs and several tubes and belts related to the system. After that, the car will only run properly in 2nd. In D3, D4 and 1 it revs but never shifts out of first and there is no pickup. I can't get it above 25 mph - I guess, since the speedometer stopped working after his "repairs". He seems mystified, but he's willing to keep working on it. Do I take it back? If so, what is the likely cause of this problem?

He may have left the speedometer gear out. If so, he probably torched the transmission. He may have also overtightened whatever bolts he tightened, causing a worse leak.

1990 accord with Auto 4sP trans, the S light blinks, and speedometer does not work. I replaced the VSS and problem still remains. I have a 17 code in the ECU and a 4 code in the TCM, I think they both point to the VSS, The Pin that protrudes into the VSS is turning when wheel is turning. Can someone point me to the wiring diagrams for the VSS? Unless you think I should try something else... Can Shifts and runs fine

This is almost always caused by a bad TCM. I usually don't say this, but in this case I would probably just replace it. 90% of the time this will fix it.
It is possible that you are in the 10% that won't fix it, but not likely.

promechanic is right, though you should give the VSS a try, as it might fix it and it not very costly.

Figures, I'm in the 10%, replaced TCM and got same results, Can you recommend anything else or point me to wiring schematics? This problem started right after I replaced the coil in the distributor. Car was running terrible,after wires , plugs and cap did not solve the problem I replaced the coil, I noticed the cap seal must have been leaking and interior of cap seemed to have moisture. I replaced the coil anyway, but really think the problem was corroded contacts on the spade connectors. Probably just a coincidence, but within a day of getting it running again the trans problem started. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Does anyone know if the VSS is an input to the ECU and the ECU can be the problem, Since VSS and TCM did not fix the problem and wiring is a low probability, I think i am running out of probable causes. Anyone seen ECU cause this problem?

Engine Mechanical problem
1990 Honda Accord 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 153000 miles

I just bought this car and the speedometer doesn't work
Will it be the VSS and if that may be the problem where is the VSS located.
I'm looking to buy a Service manual but in the mean time I need to fix this problem.

Thank you

10/28/08 UPDATE.... I checked yesterday and found the VSS and it looks new so it has been replaced already...so there is something else to be checked out...any help will be appreciated.

Thank you

Hi PANTERANEGRA,

If the Check Engine Lamp shows sometimes, then you need to check the VSS and its wiring connectors and circuit to ECM/PCM. You did not specify if it is an Auto Trans, which would have the S mode lamp blinking.

If there is no CEL or S mode blinking, then it should be the meter gauge assy that needs attention.

had same issue, but has evolved into the s light doesn't come on at all now, and I have to use the key to unlock the transmission to put it into gear. I have to put in in low gear to start out as it is set to

[quote:517b986b6b="KHLow2008"]Hi PANTERANEGRA,

If the Check Engine Lamp shows sometimes, then you need to check the VSS and its wiring connectors and circuit to ECM/PCM. You did not specify if it is an Auto Trans, which would have the S mode lamp blinking.

If there is no CEL or S mode blinking, then it should be the meter gauge assy that needs attention.[/quote:517b986b6b]

Thank you for answering...

the car has automatic transmision...after I pulled the VSS sensor and looking at it of course it look new I put it back and now the speedometer is working ????? not sure why... however the S light blinks intermittent and the transmision doesn't shift gears all the time it seems to be "stuck"on 2 you know the gears are 1/2/D3/D4 it doesn't change gears when I shift gears..
Thank you for your help.

Problem ended up being bad VSS, I purchased a Dorman -Part No 911-750 sensor, I returned it for new under warranty and problem fixed... Thanks for your help guys....

Hi PANTERANEGRA, The VSS wire connector could have been loose and when disconnecting and reconnecting has now been seated properly. You should check the socket for signs of contamination or oxidation. As to the 'S' mode light blinking and trans not shifting correctly, you need to retrieve the Diagnostic Troube Code to enable rectification.

Bridge the connector as shown by the jumper wire and turn ignition switch ON. Cout the number of flashes and come back with the result. Prolonged flashes = 10 Short flashes = 1 Prolonged Pause = DTC separator Shhort

Thank you for your replay KHLow2008
Sunday Nov. 2 I checked the vehicle again and found that both of the coolant temp. sensor are defective I'll get new ones at the dealer tomorrow. checked with autoparts and they don't have them///I saw that the previous owern of this vehicle had changed the radiator and fan but I figure he hadn't repalced tohse sensors because they look old....also will check the codes tomorrow because I didn't know how to do it before your replay
you guys have been very helpfull than you so much...

KHLow2008 I had chack thermal sensor in the past and looks like thsese type of sensors are not all the same...the sensors are good(found out after spending big bucks on new ones).
Automatic Transmision
my problem is the transmison will not upshift these happened when the S switch was pressed or activated now is erratic even after I disconected the battery cable to erase the codes(I also disconected the S switch is that OK?)I try checking for a code but the S light blinks inttermitent or it goes off and the transmision works ok.
I really can do without the S switch function
I like to know what is causing that I have removed and checked the Speed Ctrl. Solenoids(applied 12V and sounds like they activate(clicking sound)

Another question is it common on Honda cars to have poor conection between points I've been reading on a manual and it talks a lot about poor conections between connector wires.

I have removed and cleaned the conectors for the ECM and A/T control unit it did not make a diference.
thank you for your help

Hi PANTERANEGRA,

When the S light is blinking, an error has been detected by the Transmission Control Module and it might cause shifting problems. For this model, it is higly possible the TCM or shift solenoids are faulty with the symptoms you have described.

Disconnecting the S mode switch would not do anything to the blinking as it only disables the option of Sports Mode whose main job is to delay the shifting time which is controlled by the TCM.

The S light is also used as an diagnostic indicator and when it does not goe off after initial key on, than something is wrong with the TCM or its sensor circuits.

Did you bridge the wire connectors as advised? You need to do it to get the Diagnostic Trouble Code to find out what is causing the problem.

KHLow2008 I did bridge the connector on Sunday but there were no codes????...the S light came on yesterday and of course the transmission got "stuck" on second gear then I stop to pick up something to eat turn off the car and when I got back to drive it the light was off and the transmission worked fine... when I got home tried to get the codes but there is no codes not sure what is happening.
the TCM where is that located and how expensive is that part...is there much dificulty to replace it?...
I did removed the shifting solenois and applied 12VDC and they sounded like they worked(clicking sound)not sure if that means they are ok.
your been very helpfull
Thank you

Hi PANTERANEGRA,

If no codes are stored, then I would suggest bridging the terminals and test driving untill you see the S light flashing and at that time you can start counting the flashes of the S light.

The TCM is located next to the ECM as shown in the previous post and rmoval is not that difficult. I believe you can get it quite cheaply at any of the scrap yards. Of course a new unit would be quite costly.

ok KHLow2008 I jumped the conector and the S light came on...it looks like code one(light would blink and stay on and then the same)

The S light comes on inttermitenly and at that moment the transmision goes into 2nd gear
any help would be appreciated


Thank you.

Hi PANTERANEGRA,

Seems you are describing a DTC code # 10 instead of # 1.
1 should be a short quick flash and a prolonged flash before it goes off is 10.

DTC # 1 = Lockup solenoid valve A problem.

DTC # 10 = Disconnected Engine Coolant Temperature sensor.

The symptom does not tally with the codes on display and I believe you need to substitute a TCM totest.

Thank you for the replay KHLow2008 I agree... the light doesn't seem to be giving me a code....can you tell me a little bit about how the transmision work...is it controlled electronically?.... It seem to be acting up more now i'm not sure i it is related to the car getting warm(from drivig) because when I leave the house it works fine ..I drive about 14 miles to work and about 8 to 10 miles the transm. goes into low gear and stays there then it will act ok and switch back to low gear soemtimes after I turn off the car when I run into the store and go back in the road it works fine for a mile or so then goes back to low gear.
Thank you for your help

Hi PANTERANEGRA,


DESCRIPTION

Automatic transaxle is electronically controlled. Transaxle shifting and torque converter lock-up are controlled by Automatic Transaxle Control Unit (ATCU) for optimal performance. The ATCU receives information from various input devices and uses this information to control shift and lock-up control solenoid valves.

Vehicle is equipped with "S" (sport mode) switch mounted on shift lever in the vehicle. The "S" switch is used to change shift points under part throttle acceleration. When "S" switch is depressed with ignition on, "S" indicator light on instrument panel should come on and then go off when "S" switch is released.

Your symptom is consistent with a faulty TCM or its wire connections. When cold the TCM works ok, when heated up, resistance builds up or some of the TCM internal capacitors etc stops and when the brain senses a fault, it goes into fail safe mode (limp mode). When you turn ignition off, the TCM iresets and restarts woould have the TCM working normally till it senses any faults.

Hi KHLow2008 I went back and pulled the ATCU and looked at it better this time and found a capacitor that had leaked on the circuit board so I cleaned the board well and found traces that were open(corroded by the leaking cap.) I put a couple of jumper wires replaced 2 capacitors also I pulled the ECM and cleaned the conector's plug on both of these assemblies there were some corrosion on both assemblies and the car works good so far now only one thing to do is to conect the S switch and see if it works.
Thank you for the information and your help.

I have a couple more questions about the same car.

1. the car has 140,000 miles and transmision oil has not been changed in a long time not sure how long..do recomend changing the oil now?

2.the driver side window motor is bad...any TIPS on replacing it?


Thank you

Hi PANTERANEGRA,

If the color of the trans fluid looks dark or brownish, it is best replaced. If it is bright red, it is still in good condition.

Regarding the window motor, what is the problem that you are facing? If it is sluggish, it usually is caused by the runchannels and not the motor. If the runchannel is distorted, especially near the wing mirrors, you need to replace it.

the car is runing good now execept that the brakes giving me problems.

when I stop at a signal light the brake pedal starts to go lower and lower...I have purge the brakes,check for broken hoses around the booster...any ideas.

Thank you

Hi,

The symptom indicates a failing brake master cylinder which is leaking internally. You need to repair/replace the master cylinder and bleed the system to rectify.

the speedometer on my 89 honda accord has always bounced when driving then one day it just stopped working how do i fix this problem

The bouncing comes from the cable binding up in the housing. Remove the speedometer gear from the transmission then remove the speedometer cable. Try pulling it out of the housing. If it is broken then you will have to disconnect it under the dash at the sppedometer. With it broken you may have to get a complete cable assembly.

I have a 92 Honda Accord EX wagon with 212k miles on it. Not long ago, the speedometer would sometime work and sometime not work. It is now completly dead and shows no speed when driving. I suspect that it is the combination meter that has stopped working.

Two questions, does this problem sound like a combination meter malfunction and secondly, if so, where is the meter located?

Regards,

NT

Do you have a tach on the vehicle? If so does it still work? If not, I would suspect the sender and if so, the speedometer.

All other guages as well as the tach are all working properly.

I would give the nod to the speedometer itself having failed. The sender is doing its job.

I got a 1990 Honda accord automatic with 150,000 miles. The green S light will come on some times while driving and speedo will quit working. Is this some kind of check trans light and if so how can I read trans codes. Thanks for your help

The "Sport" lamp is used for reading diagnostic trouble codes by jumpering the diagnostic connector and counting the flashes. Your shift concerns and your speedometer are one in the same problem. Replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor.

I had my alternator replaced yesterday on 1987 Honda Accord DX and a tune up, today my speedometer isn't working; any idea what the problem could be? If it's replacing the speedometer or cable, is that expensive?

No not really because you will likely only find used parts and they are reasonable. I would check to see that nothing was disconnected during the alternator replacement and forgotten to be reconnected.