Heater problems?

Good morning.

Can you hear the blend door move when you go from heat to cool and back? It sounds like you have a clogged heater core this guide will tell us for sure

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

You can flush it on your own. Remove the hoses to the core and use a garden hose to flush back and forth until debris is gone.

Roy

I can hear the doors move and I have recalibrated them a couple of times. I drove 2 hours on Saturday and got very little heat. I drove for 2 hours back today and it was working great. would that be the heater core?

It may have been air in the system yes, rh heater core or it may have also been the blend door actuator.

Roy

My town & country van heater is blowing cold air, so the mechanic change the termistat and flush the line, but it still not working and the fan only works on high. What could be wrong?

Make sure the engine is running at a normal operating temp. With it warm, the engine running and the fan on high, feel both heater core hoses. IF both are hot, check the blend air door for operation. If only one is hot, flush the heater core.

As far as fan speed, replace the blower motor resister.

I have a 2002 chrysler town and country, The heater blows nice and hot when you are driving, but when u stop at a stop light or sit idling, the air turns cold, what can I do to fix this?

Heater only blows hot when the car is moving

Check coolant level. Also, make sure the heater hoses are not pinched.

Thank you, coolant level is good, I will check the heater hoses.

When I turn the heater on, I have to turn the heater to the highest fan option to get any heat going. What is going on and is it going to be an easy fix for me, or should I take it into the shop?

Turn oyur heater on and get operating temp and check heater hoses to heatercore against firewall if both hoses are not as hot as radiator hoses. you might have a clogged heater core. you have to pulldash out to change heatercore.

went out to start my van, turn on the heat heard this crunching noise, no heat will blow out vents. But the rear vents all work. can u tell me what this is?

Suspect blower motor possible something got into cage. Remove motor check it out

wheres that at? that would cause no heat in front of van but still have heat in back of van?

Front and rear are seperate systems. Blower under dash pass. side

2001 Chrysler Town and Country

Yesterday my heat wouldn't work. This morning, a light that looked like a flag came on and I got a beeping noise. I looked at the panel below it and it was in the red zone. When I pulled over it went back. I stopped the car and put a quart of oil in it and the heat came back on and the panel went down to halfway between C & H. What is going on?? I have no idea what that light or the panel meant. Can you help me so I have an idea what the mechanic is going to look for and I don't get robbed??

"C" and "H" are cold and hot on the coolant temperature gauge. Low coolant level in the radiator will cause the flow to stop. That means no coolant coming from the radiator to cool the engine, so it gets too hot, and no hot coolant flowing through the heater core in the dash board, so it blows cold air.

There could be a cooling system leak. If this happened over a long period of time, it should have been addressed as a part of every oil change. Adding oil won't help an overheating condition.

The "flag" you're referring to could be a thermometer. Most Chrysler products have a "Check Gauges" light that comes on, along with a chime, when a gauge is indicating a problem.

caradiodoc

I have a 2001 Chrysler T&C with dual climate control and rear control. However, when set to heat the passenger side only blows COLD air. Only one temp all the time. From the defroster to the floor, the right side is cold and the left side is HOT. How can I fix this and what could it be? Also the first two of the four rear vents blows only a little air but the furthest rear air vents really push out some heat.

Sounds like you have a rear heater. That would explain why the rear heat is good.

First, check to see if there is a calibration procedure for the computer. 1996 and 97 minivans needed this done anytime the battery was disconnected or went dead. It could be extremely frustrating to pass the tests, but I think by '99 it was no longer necessary to do this.

If you take it to the dealership, they will most likely try a different computer first. If you're lucky, that will solve the problem. Total repair will likely be around $300.00 to $500.00. Dual zone computers cost a lot more than the standard ones.

If there's no calibration procedure, and a new computer doesn't help, expect to find a broken temperature door inside the heater box, or a defective actuator. Both require removing the steering column and dashboard. The broken door repair also involves discharging the air conditioning system, and removing the heater box to disassemble it. Typical repair is commonly between $800.00 and $1200.00. That's a high price to pay for one person to be 2 degrees warmer than the other person, but people buy cars based on all these frills. It's also the reason I'm still driving a 1988 Grand Caravan. The front and rear heaters work just fine and there's not a single computer involved. So many people have been stung so many times by these repair bills, (be thankful you don't have a GM product), and the manufacturers can't figure out why no one wants to buy their cars!

caradiodoc

What is causing no heat to come to the right heater vents on my 2000 T&C Chryler minivan? This happened after an A/C repair under the right side of dash. They have replaced the motor that controls same to no help.... Is there duck hoses that they may have left off?

the mechanic that replaced "motor that controls" may have left a vacuum hose off, follow the diagnostic procedure, to find out which hoes it is.

VACUUM CONTROL SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
VACUUM CONTROL ONE-WAY CHECK VALVE
NOTE:Some models use brake booster check valve for vacuum source. These models do not use another in-line vacuum check valve.

In engine compartment, locate Black vacuum hose that runs from brake booster check valve or intake manifold, through firewall near heater hoses or expansion valve. This supply vacuum hose goes to A/C-heater control panel vacuum switch.
Within Black vacuum hose, disconnect and remove check valve near intake manifold or brake booster. Connect vacuum gauge to an external vacuum pump. Start vacuum pump. Plug end of hose probe on vacuum gauge. Adjust bleed valve on vacuum gauge to obtain an exact vacuum reading of 8 in. Hg.
Unplug and plug end of hose probe on vacuum gauge several times to ensure exact vacuum reading. Connect vacuum gauge hose probe to control panel side of check valve. Vacuum gauge reading should be 8 in. Hg. Replace check valve if vacuum leak exists.
Connect vacuum gauge hose probe to engine side of check valve. Vacuum should flow through check valve. Replace check valve if operation is not as described.
VACUUM CONTROLS
This test checks for proper function of control panel vacuum circuits. Perform steps 1) through 4) under VACUUM CONTROL ONE-WAY CHECK VALVE.
Connect vacuum gauge hose probe to Black vacuum hose end that leads to A/C-heater control panel switch. Position vacuum gauge so gauge reading can be observed from inside vehicle.
Operate A/C-heater controls (sliding lever or push buttons) in all mode positions (floor, defrost, panel, etc.). Pause after each selection to allow vacuum actuators or motors to energize and stabilize. Record vacuum gauge reading at each selection.
After each selection, vacuum reading should be 7.5-8 in. Hg. Maximum vacuum reading drop is .75 in. Hg. If proper vacuum reading cannot be obtained, vacuum leak exists in selected circuit.
To check for vacuum leak(s), disconnect 7-way A/C-heater control panel vacuum harness connector. See Fig. 1 . If necessary, remove control panel from instrument panel to access A/C-heater control panel vacuum harness connector, or remove lower instrument panel assembly.
Connect vacuum source probe to each port of connector. See Fig. 1 . Record each vacuum gauge reading. Vacuum reading should be 8 in. Hg at each port.
NOTE:Brown (bi-level) vacuum circuit contains a restriction in line. It takes longer to obtain correct vacuum reading on this line.

If correct vacuum readings are obtained, replace faulty A/C-heater control panel vacuum switch assembly. If proper vacuum readings are not obtained, check appropriate vacuum circuit.
Start vacuum check by plugging vacuum hose at vacuum actuator in suspect circuit. Recheck vacuum circuit by connecting vacuum source probe to proper port.
If proper vacuum reading is now obtained, replace vacuum actuator. If proper reading is not obtained, check vacuum hoses and connections for leak. Repair or replace as required.

At first the heater in the van would only blow warm air if the van was in gear and going down the road. Now it blows only cold air. Coolant level is fine. No visible leaks. Why wont the heater work?

First look at the temperature gauge on the dash when the engine is warmed up. If it's lower than normal, suspect a defective thermostat that is opening too soon and preventing the engine from reaching normal temperature.

If the gauge reads normal, feel the two heater hoses after the engine is warmed up and "heat" is selected. If they feel cool, suspect a plugged heater core. This used to be common on older Caravans. Sediment would collect in the heater core because it sits so much higher than the engine. I've had very good luck on those older models with removing the heater hoses and flushing the heater core with a garden hose.

If the heater hoses are hot, there is a problem with the electronic controller, a broken door in the heater box, or a problem with the vacuum hose or motors that run the doors. Based on your dandy observation that it blew warm air for a while, I'm leaning toward a plugged heater core that was partially plugged earlier. Actuators and temperature doors in the heater box generally fail suddenly, and all at once.

If the problem gets worse, to the point of engine overheating, suspect a worn / loose / broken impeller on the water pump. I haven't heard of this happening on Chrysler products but it's very common on Volkswagens, so it's worth mentioning.

caradiodoc