My heater is not working why?

Hello,

Are you loosing any coolant or is your floorboard wet? If so this could be a problem with your heater core. Regardless I am giving you a few links to go through. The first link will help you pinpoint what the problem with your heater is, and the other two are possible fixes, depending on what you find. Let us know what you find out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Good morning,

Make sure the coolant level is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Does the temperature gauge read normal?

When you command heat and cold, can you hear the blend door inside the dash move back and forth? Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Check the hoses under the hood to the heater core and make sure they are hot. You may have a clogged heater core. Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

It was the temperature blend door actuator not working i got a new unit works great thank you.

My heater is not working even if I can put it to max but it just blowing cold air.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This can be caused by a few things. Things such as low coolant, a plugged heater core, a bad blend air door actuator can all lead to no heat. First, take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working

Here is what I need you to do. First, confirm the engine coolant is full and clean. If it is, start the engine, turn the heater on high, and allow the engine to warm up to operating literature. Once it reaches operating temp, turn the engine off, open the hood, and feel both the supply and return lines going to the heater core. The hoses are approximately an inch in diameter and will run from the engine to the firewall. If you take a look through this link, you will see what the hoses look like and approximately where they will attach at the firewall.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-heater-hoses

If one hose is hot and the other isn't, the heater core needs either flushed or replaced. In this case, allow the engine to cool off. Remove the hoses at the firewall and try to flush water through the heater core using a garden hose. Do it in both directions.

If you can't get water to flow through, it needs replaced.

If the aforementioned test doesn't show a plugged core, see the last set of directions related to a blend air door.

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-heater-core

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

__________________________________________________

HEATER CORE


Picture 1



Removal and Installation

NOTE:
- If a heater core leak is suspected, the heater core must be leak tested before it is removed from the vehicle. See: Heating and Air Conditioning > Component Tests and General Diagnostics
- It is not necessary to install new heater core inlet and outlet tubes when installing a new heater core unless there is evidence of damage to the heater core tubes. The new O-ring seals supplied with the heater core service kit must be installed any time the heater core tubes are detached from the heater core.
1. Drain the engine coolant. See: Cooling System > Service and Repair
2. Remove the 3 glove compartment screws and the glove compartment.
- To install, tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
3. Using a suitable utility knife, carefully cut the heater core tube cover along the rib as shown.


Picture 2



4. Detach the climate control wire harness connector from the heater core tube cover.
5. Remove the 2 heater core tube cover screws.
6. Remove the cut portion of the heater core tube cover.

7. NOTE: Before disconnecting the heater core tube connections, position a suitable drain pan to catch any residual coolant that may drain from the heater core or heater core tubes when disconnected.

Remove the 2 heater core tube connection clips and disconnect the 2 heater core tubes from the heater core.
- Discard the O-ring seals.
8. Detach and remove the heater core access door.

9. NOTE: The heater core must be carefully manipulated to clear the blower motor housing while being removed.

Remove the heater core.

10. NOTE: Be sure that the new O-rings are installed, and the heater core tubes are fully seated into the heater core before installing the heater core tube connection clips.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Install new O-ring seals.
- Apply a suitable black duct-type tape over the cut in the heater core tube cover.
11. Fill the engine coolant level. See: Cooling System > Service and Repair

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If both heater core hoses are hot in the aforementioned directions, the last thing is the blend air door. This door determines if heat or AC enters the vehicle and is also located under the dash.

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. The remaining pictures correlate with these directions.
_________________________________________________

TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR


See picture 3

Removal and Installation

NOTE: The temperature blend door actuator can be accessed from below the instrument panel to the right of the accelerator pedal.

1. Disconnect the temperature blend door actuator electrical connector.
2. Remove the 2 temperature blend door actuator screws.
3. Remove the temperature blend door actuator.
4. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

_________________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

A few days ago, I took my dad's car four hours away on a trip. About half way here the heater started only blowing lukewarm (at best) air even though the car was obviously up to operating temperature. I stopped at a gas station to warm up and noticed that, at idle, it blew hot air like it should. Once I started driving again. Coldish air. I got to my destination and the next morning I had a friend look at the car, he discovered that the coolant was frozen.(awesome, right?) He then got the car thoroughly warmed up, flushed radiator, made sure there was not a clog in the heater core, and replaced the coolant with new 50/50 antifreeze.
Still no heat.
Both hoses going to the heater core are warm after running, though the outlet hose is noticeably less warm which I read it is normal as the coolant cools while running through the core.
There are no clogs, that he has found. No leaks. No bad hoses. No smells. No weird fog. No heat.
The temperature gauge inside the car will go from operating temperature, to just barely above cold and back and forth while driving.
We bought a thermostat but not sure that is the issue?
It is very cold outside, with wind chills at about -25°F to -35°F. Could it just be too cold, in general? I have been told to put cardboard inside the grill to keep the engine warmer while driving? I do not know.
Help please, I am stuck four hours from home, I need to get back to work!
TIA!

Be very careful with that cardboard trick. You can toast your engine real easily. It only takes one severe overheat to do that.

For your overheating problem I would first try a 195 degree thermostat and make sure you get all the air pockets out of the system. We use a vacuum fill tool to accomplish that.

You are on the money with the thermostat it sounds like it is stuck open.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing the thermostat out:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-thermostat

Here is what it will be like for your car (below).

Do not put cardboard in front of the radiator please.

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

I have no heat in vehicle.it just blows cold and at idle when car is standing still the car over heats. i installed a new thermostat in put in new anti freeze.

Are both heater hoses hot to the touch where they go into the firewall?

Is the fan working?

How did this start?

the fan works ,I just found out that I have no heat, because it has gotten cold here in Michigan, the water hose going to the thermostat swells up and car is over heating. I got the car in summer never turned on heat until now.

You only answered one of three questions.

Temperature of heater hoses?
How did the overheating begin? when?

If you have a radiator hose swelling, that hose needs to be replaced. That has no bearing on the issue.

yes fan is working, but it seems to me it does not come on enough and does not stay on very long, like about four to five minutes, when the fan comes on the temperature goes down some, but soon as it goes off the temperature goes back up. it just started one day when I was in a traffic jam.

I am going to change the hose today.

You do not have an overheating problem. It is acting exactly as it was designed to. The fact that the fan cycles on and off proves it has done its intended job .The cars are designed to run hotter at idle and slow traffic for emissions and fuel mileage reasons. Most of these cooling fans aren't programmed o come on until about 227 degrees.

You do not have anything to worry about there.

both hoses going into the fire wall are not hot at all.

If the upper radiator hose is hot but the heater hoses are not, then your heater core is likely plugged up. I hope you have never added any sealer to the system.

Heater has become very slow to heat up. It takes several minutes after the engine indicates full warm up before any sign of warm air from the heater. Also,after car does warms up, I have noticed that the car at full stop and engine idleing ,only cold air comes from the heater.

If you can locate the two heater hoses that go into the cab area, feel them both after the engine is warmed up. I would like to know if they are both hot or only one. Post your findings back hear and we'll try to get you an answer.

What are the options for me to look at if the heater doesn't work. The only thing that blows out of the vents is cold air.

The heater core or hoses could be clogged-up. Further You can visually inspect the temperature control cable,blend door, temperature control switch and mechanical air temperature valve.

how do I look at this door and switch

You need to go behind the dash its a tedious job-

I just had my engine rebuilt and just got it back on the road again yesterday. The car seems to run great but my heater just blows out somewhat luke warm air(not hot at all) and the exhaust tail pipe has alot of water coming out of it(even after running for several minutes). I don't think it's the thermostat, heater core nor low coolant level. Does this vehicle have a heater control valve because I think this may be the problem? Someone told me that it may be called something else on Ford's. Or, do you have any other ideas? Another point to make(possibly another reason my heat is not working properly), I hit a racoon a while back(before engine rebuild). The collission took out my A/C system from underneath(other than pulley). I didn't think much about it, at the time, because it's cold out and won't need cooling for a few months. In any event, could this also cause a problem with my heating system. Out of ideas.....HELP.....Thanks!

check to make sure both hoses are hot then check actuator in heater box in car.

Yes, both heater core hoses get hot. Still only very luke warm air is coming out from vents though. So you now think it may be the actuator in the heater box? What do you mean when you say "heater box"? Is it attached to the heater core behind the dash(hoping I don't have to take my entire interior out - which I think I have to on a 2002 ford focus to even get to the heater core). Also, when I find the actuator, how do I test it to find out if it's working? Thanks!

seeif it's getting power then take it out and connect it and see if it works. if it works then the door is probably broke. the heater box is the heater case.

I think mechanic that rebuilt engine may have connected hoses incorrectly at heater core. The hose that comes from my water pump is going to top heater core port and hose that goes back to thermostat area is coming from bottom heater core port. I think that is backwards? I think it goes from water pump to bottom heater core port(inlet) and then comes out of top heater core port(outlet) then goes back to engine? Does anyone know for certain on a 2002 ford focus? Like I said, after car warms up, I get a few seconds of luke warm air but then it tapers to just slightly above cold and stays like that. I never get really warm air coming out vents. Everything else seems ok(thermostat, actuator, etc). Would connecting hoses incorrectly(at core) cause this to happen? HELP!

Hi BUCKEYE23,

It really sounds like the thermostat was left out or broken open, please let me know what you find.

it's hard to connect hoses incorrectly because they are different sizes. pull fuses 36 and 45 in central junction box inside car with key on this may reset actuator . then have it scanned for codes as it may be the solid state unit in control head. the actuator is by blower motor that is the only one there is. so yours may be also manually controlled with a cable if It is it will be on the heater box and see if it operates. it may be broken.