Hard to shift out of park

It sounds like the interlock solenoid is damaged/failing. If you hear the click of the solenoid but it still does not release then it is probably the link on the solenoid or the arm it connects into. The images show the solenoid and the arm it connects into.
They are on the side of the shifter assembly under the console inside the truck.

Removing the console is not hard, just takes a bit of time. Put the seats all the way back and remove the two rear console bolts (1 in picture). Remove the shifter bezel (3 in picture), gently pry it up and it will come loose. Open the lid and remove the screws (4 in picture) that hold the larger trim panel around the shifter.
Disconnect the electrical connector that feeds the console.
Remove the front push pins (7 in picture) and the trim panels.
Remove the two bolts (9 in picture). Pull the console back and lift it up, remove it and the shifter will be right there.

If you look at the solenoid it retracts and pulls the interlock lever back to release the shifter out of park. It should still operate with the console out so you can test it. You have a couple options at this point depending on what you find. If the solenoid is bent or does not activate every time you can replace it. It is also possible that the circuit board that it plugs into is failing. Try wiggling the connectors and see if it starts working again. If it does the board is easy to replace as well.

If the problem is the link arm, that is probably a dealer or used only part.

I cannot tell you that you also have the option of removing the interlock if you wish. But once you see how it works it is your choice.

Wow guys! this is great information. I will be away from my tools for a few more days (and still fussing with this) but as soon as I get back I will dive into repair mode and get-r-done!

Thank you very much, G.
I hope you guys are good with 2003 Jeep Liberty's, just got one for playing in the desert. I sm sure there will be something for the 2CARPROS. Thanks again.

Got a 2003 Libby myself, well over 200,000 miles on it. Rebuilt the transmission at 112,000 and rebuilt the window regulators because the OEM units use plastic that wears and breaks. There is a kit online that replaces all of the plastic with steel for less than the cost of one complete regulator. Takes about thirty minutes per door. Check the valve covers for leaks, the gaskets get hard and you leak oil.

I plan on cutting out the New York rust and welding in some new steel this spring. May pull the heads and change the gaskets as a precaution as well.

Darn, I ordered a passenger side regulator two weeks ago before we left, should be waiting for me at home now. Still need to repair both rear regulators though. They are being held in with wire ties and or bailing wire and twine, did not mess with them. They look kind of beat up apparently the previous owner is not a YouTube fan. I will look for the repair kit though. Thanks again, G.

The kits are sold by autoandart.com They replace the plastic end piece that breaks off. https://www.autoandart.com/02-07-jeep-liberty-new-4-piece-set-front-rear-metal-power-window-lift-regulator-repair-kit
The only thing I do is to drill out the aluminum rivets they use and install stainless. The aluminum ones tend to loosen up and could come apart.

Hey Steve, Thanks again, G.

You're welcome. There are videos on replacing the regulator parts. I would get the 4 door kit because the plastic ones will fail sooner or later. I have used a bunch of them over the years. The 02 and early 03s used a metal assembly for the front doors, but plastic for the rear. Mid 03 - 07 uses plastic on all 4.


On the Ford, there should be an interlock bypass under the rubber insert in the cup holder. Pop it out and remove the cover in the front, should be a lever to push down. Push it down, shift to neutral, start truck with your foot on the brake.

More good info! Thanks again, G.

Use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help. Please tell a friend.

Cheers, Ken

I can start the car in neutral and I can drive it fine, but I cannot get it into park?

Good afternoon,

Does it go into reverse okay?

This sounds like the shift cable itself.

Roy

Selector Lever Cable and Bracket

Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle.


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2. Disconnect the shift cable from the transmission.
1 Disconnect the shift cable from the manual control lever.
2 Depress the lock tabs and disconnect the shift cable from the shift cable bracket.


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3. Remove the bolts and the shift cable bracket from the transmission.
4. Lower the vehicle.


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5. Disconnect the shift cable from the steering column.
1 Disconnect the shift cable from the transmission selector lever arm and support.
2 Disconnect the shift cable from the steering column bracket.


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6. Push the rubber grommet through the bulkhead.


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7. Locate the shift cable retainer tabs, protruding through the floor pan, underneath the carpet and insulation. While squeezing the tabs together, push the tabs out of the floor pan.
8. From the engine compartment, remove the shift cable from the vehicle.

Thanks for your reply I figured it out it was a size T 30 screw that fell out. Once I put it back I was able to put it in to park.

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