Gurgle noise/shutting off

2007 HONDA FIT
77,000 MILES • 1.5L • 4 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC
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AYNMACK
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I have the car listed above it is the Sport model. This issue has happened three times in the past two days. I would be parked and my car would suddenly shut down after being started. I had the battery checked and it is fine. There are no codes either. Today it did the same thing again after I returned from a store. However, this time after it shut down out of nowhere I heard a very loud gurgling sound like water swishing back and forth inside my dash. No wet carpets. It as usual started back up and I was able to drive away just fine. I have no idea what this could be because there are no codes and I checked the coolant level and it is fine. The radiator cap is fine and snug. The oil cap and level are fine. The car is in pretty good shape for its age. I just need help to know what this could be because I have a kid to tote around. I do not know if it has anything to do with this, but I noticed the week before that when the AC is turned on the car will sometimes jerk when idling. It is not a visible jerk but I can feel it. I guess more of a stutter. I checked the hoses or as many as I could see and they are all in top shape. No cracks/nothing loose. I am completely lost. Please help.

*Also, my car gets great mileage so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
Mar 8, 2018 at 7:31 PM
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KHLOW2008
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Symptom indicates the engine is stalling due to poor idle control and this could be due to the throttle being dirty. I would suggest cleaning the throttle body and relearning the idling.
The surging noise is most probably due to the A/C gas within the system and is nothing to worry about.
Mar 10, 2018 at 10:01 PM
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AYNMACK
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Thanks! Here is a picture of my throttle body. I am guessing it is dirty. Could you please tell me steps to open it and also steps to reset it? Do I need to buy a scanner? Thanks!
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Mar 22, 2018 at 12:07 PM
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KHLOW2008
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The throttle body is not too bad. You need not remove anything. Just get a can of throttle cleaner and spray into it. Let it soak for a while and use a tooth brush to clean it. Do not turn on ignition while doing this and you would need to open the throttle fully to allow the areas where the throttle plate rest when closed to be cleaned. After cleaning, you would have to run the engine for a while to let the Engine Control Module relearns the idling. It could be much higher than normal after cleaning.
Mar 23, 2018 at 8:10 AM
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AYNMACK
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Thanks but I still do not understand how to open the throttle plate. Relearning the idle I can do, but how do I open the throttle body when it is electronic? Thanks.
Mar 23, 2018 at 5:47 PM
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STRAILER
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Yes just use your finger and open it with the key off it is spring loaded you can hold it open as long as you want and clean the bore thoroughly.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-throttle-body-works

Please run down this guide and report back.

Cheers, Ken
Mar 26, 2018 at 12:10 PM
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AYNMACK
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Okay, so the throttle body was cleaned and reset yet the problem remains the same. It seems to only have the idle problem when the A/C is on. It is as if there is a jerk every few seconds when it is on. I found a split hose on something beside my battery. I have no idea what it is attached to nor what it leads to. Picture shows it. Any ideas? It is getting hot and I would like to be able to use the A/C.
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Apr 30, 2018 at 4:57 PM
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STRAILER
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Hello.

That is a wiring harness cover which has a spit down the center which is normal there are wires inside of that conduit. The only time the engine has a problem is when the air conditioner is on? I am thinking you have a problem with the compressor. Does it make noise when it clicks on like it drags the engine way down? Can you make a video?
May 1, 2018 at 10:24 AM
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AYNMACK
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I am guessing I have two separate issues. One being the car randomly shutting off right after a start when in D or R. And 2. The shaking once the A/C is on but only when in D or R, not P. So confusing. Video shows engine action while switched between D and R. Thanks for any and all advice.
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May 3, 2018 at 9:19 AM
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STRAILER
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Thanks for the video. The engine is moving way too much like you have a engine mount or torque mount out. See the diagram below its the lower rear mount I would look at.

Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-motor-mounts

I noticed the engine did not stall and seems to be running okay, I am right to assume this?

If you stress the engine when driving it will move more which can make it stall.

Please upload any video that will help me see what you have going on, works great.

Check out the diagrams (below).

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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May 3, 2018 at 10:19 AM