Air conditioner not working?

This sounds like the system is low on charge this video and guides will wil you fix the problem.

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

Please run down these guides and report back.

New rear evaporater. The nut on the big line was messed up. Went to parts store to have new end put on. The new end would only screw on about 2 turns. The threads both look the same. Possible they are different threads or is this common that it would be this tight because the aluminum is so soft.

No, it should thread together easily. There are 2 different thread types, metric and SAE and you may be mixing them together or the mating part may be damaged.

Hello, I have a 1999 GMC Yukon SLT. I've been noticing for a while now, that when I cut my heater or A/C on it doesn't blow through the vents on the dash. But it blows underneath the dash onto the feet in order for me to cool down or heat up the inside faster I have to use the rear passenger vents. Any idea what could be the issue? All of the lights and stuff work, it's just the front dash vents blow.

you actuator is not working right, try pulling hvac fuse inside truck with key on for 60 seconds and it may reset. if not thenyou will probably have ot replace it see pic.

My a/c compressor pulley is freezing up. If i get a smaller belt can i bypass that pulley as a temp fix until i'm able to get a new one?

a company called dorman makes a replacement bracket with a pulley to eliminate the ac compressor and use the oem belt. check at a parts store.

Roy

Well at this moment i can't afford to buy any kind of pulley whether it's the a/c compressor pulley or the one that you're talking about. I was just wondering if i can just get a smaller belt and completely bypass the a/c compressor even if that means not being able to run my a/c. I'm in a desperate attempt for a quick fix because I can't afford to lose my job because i don't have transportation. Will the smaller belt bypassing the ac compressor fix the problem for now? Thanks you so much for your time and advice...

Need to know what amp your alternator is?There is belts without ac but need to know what the amp rating of the alternator is to get the correct number.

there is a belt for without ac but you need another pulley for it to work. if you have to buy the pulley and the belt, it would be cheaper to buy the bypass pulley

Roy

expert here needing some help with a/c
my truck is a 98 yukon... had some a/c problems causing the high side to be super high and kick out.. got my blockage fixed but my high side is still running up there pretty high 350-375. have i blown my compressor? system has been flushed oiled and vac'd and charged with the correct amount of r134.

ps new condensor new reciver dryer new orifice tube.

What is the low side?

55-57 psi ambent temp is about 96-98

There seems to be too much freon in system.

Its not a overcharge issue.. it started running high when the first 8 ounces were added

I'm replacing the A/C hose assembly on a 1997 GMC Yukon without rear A/C. The old part has three ports that come out above the compressor. High pressure, Low pressure, and some electrical port that plugs into a wire assembly. The new part I recieved form the auto parts store has the three ports, but the one where the electrical component should be is just a regular port similar to the high and low ports, only without a cap. The hose assembly for the model with rear A/C has the electrical component I need, but it also has an extra hose that I don't. Removing the electrical portion I need for the old part does not look like an option as it appears to be welded or pressed on. How should I proceed? Is there an adapter part required or is the electrical portion even necessary? Please help. Thanks.

i think it would be easier to get the correct hose than try and manipulate the hose to fit.

did they not have the correct hose??

Roy

Was the system evacuated? If it is not overcharging then there is air in system. Both low and high are showing high pressure.

Roy,
The hose they gave me is correct except it's missing an electrical connection at one of the ports on the housing that attaches onto the compressor. I think it's a sensor or a switch, but I'm not sure. It has a port similar to one you would plug a compressed air hose onto rather than an electrical housing for an electrical connector. The images below are the hose with and without rear a/c. The one with rear a/c has the electrical connection needed, but the extra hose that is not. I forgot to metnion that the engine is a replacement of the original so that may be a factor.

Yes the system was vacd for 45 minutes and pulled to 29hg v. From what i understand 55 psi on the low side is fine for 100 degree ambient

Just to add to this one if the port missing is the one right by where the high pressure switch screws on thats the charge port.Get the hose you cant add the port and make it work.Also change the engine wont effect which hose you have.

Here are the specifications.

Referigerant is 36 ozs without rear unit and 64 if with rear unit.

At 2000 rpm thats right where im sitting on the low side.. high side shoots sky high and kicks out

1996 GMC Yukon 125,000 miles.
My Air Compressor seized and needs to be replaced I am told. I unpluged the electrical conection and the pulley turns fine.

My question is if the commpessor is being replaced at this mileage what other compnents should be replaced at the same time. Hoses, Dryer etc

ac work can be very pricey. if you're gonna do this then you'll need to replace the dryer, orfice tube, evaporator, and the condensor. you don't need to replace any lines unless they're leaking. just be sure you flush out the lines to remove any metal that may be in them. make sure you replace all o-rings too. and use the proper ac oil. the parts store will help you on which oil will be best. good luck

If you are sure the expansion valve, condenser and referigerant is correct, the other thing that can cause this would be the condenser is not being cooled sufficiently. Try spraying a fine shower of water onto the condenser and repeat the test. I don't think it is the compressor that is faulty because a bad compressor would not be able to push very high pressure, unless the relieve valve internally is stuck and supplying excessive pressure.

I agree with the dryer and orfice tube replacement but would leave the condenser and evap. and install a filter inline and flush the entire system.

Its a new orrific tube.. no expansion valve on my truck no rear air.. condensor is new

Condenser is new but is it of the correct size? Is the cooling fans working correctly and drawing sufficient air through it to cool it well??

Yup its the extreme duty condensor larger than stock..clutch fan is removed and twin 16 inch e fans are in place

Check the fan blades to see they are moving in the right direction. Did you try my sugestion of splashing water on the condenser to test?

The fans are running correct.. havent got back to the shop to get my manifold yet