ENGINE NOT STARTING

When it don't start, check for fuel pressure and spark. Even tough you have a new pump, we still need to verify you have 60 psi pressure. You will be able to find direction when you determine what is being lost. If you have no spark, check the distributor cap, coil wire, and coil.

Here is a guide that will help you

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please let us know what happens.

It appears to be getting spark, I had just replaced the coil two weeks ago. So i need to get some one to check fuel pressure? I did notice the fuel pump seems to run alot and stays running for about a minute after turning key off.

You can determine if it is a fuel issue real quick, try some starting fluid or other combustible down the throttle. If it only runs long enough to burn it off, you have a fuel issue. Lack of adequate pressure, or injector fire.

I tried the starting fluid and still have the same problem nothing differnt at all. I also pushed the pressure relief valve and fuel shoots out pretty good i have not checked the actual pressure because i dont have a guage i will see if the local garage can check that. Do you think that more than likely it would be the distributor? Or can the coil wire do this?

You said it appeared to have spark, where did you check for spark at?

I checked for spark at the plugs. is there something else to check?

No, the spark plugs is where you want it.

Does the engine sound as if it is cranking normally? By that I mean not uneven, or abnormally fast. If it is not starting with fuel, and spark, you have to go further. Has the spark plugs been removed and inspected, perhaps they are fuel fouled. With the miles that you have on it, anything is possible at this point. Since it doesn't even fire with starter fluid, compression and timing would not be out of the question. One way to check that timing is at correct is to get the #1 cylinder up on TDC of the compression stroke, and pull the distributor cap to verify where the rotor points. It should be pointing at the #1 cylinder terminal. Be aware that some caps have terminals located differently than where the wire would be, looking inside the cap usually shows if this is the case. Were the spark plug wires removed from the cap at one time or another, and possibly could be out of firing order? If TDC of #1 can be determined, and the rotor is pointing at other than #1, it has jumped time. If you are going to remove the plugs, I would also do a compression check of all cylinders.

It seems to grank normal even sounds as if it wants to hit at times, The plugs are new, After trying to start it will spit or poof i guess a couple of times.

The fact that you say spit or poof, and sounds like it wants to hit at times, leads me more into thinking it might be a timing issue. I really would lean toward at least doing a compression check. You have fuel, and you have spark, the only other factors is air and timing. The only other possibility, and this falls under AIR, is having a plugged exhaust due to a degraded cat converter. The problem may be, at this point, that it has been cranked over enough that the fuel will actually wash the oil off of the cylinder walls, resulting in low or no compression. A restricted exhaust can also give you low compression readings, becasue only so much air can be drawn in. You can try first to remove an oxygen sensor, and see if it will start with the extra ability to exhaust. I have no way in determining what condition we are in at this stage, But you need to go back to basics, and make sure you are dealing with a healthy motor. Here is the order I would address it in.
First I would remove the plugs, check to make sure they are not fuel fouled from liquid(wet). I would run the #1 cylinder to TDC and check the rotor position. I don't know for sure if the balancer has a TDC mark, otherwise you will have to do it the hard way. Start by bumping the engine over(w/plugs out and coil disabled) untill you feel pressure out of #1 hole. Then you would have to insert a rod or screwdriver in and touch the piston while rotating the engine by hand, until it reaches the top of it's travel. It is critical that it is at the top. Then check to make sure your rotor is pointing at #1 on the cap.
Next, with the plugs out and spark disabled, I would do a compression test on all eight. If you have low compression on one or more, add a squirt or two of oil into the easiest cylinder with an oil can, this is called a wet test. If your compression restores significantly, you have rinsed cylinder walls, and a wet test on all would be suggested. At least the better part of the eight, and it would correct itself when it runs.
At this point you may have come to a conclusion. If not, and the plugs are dry, reinstall them and connect the ignition. Remove an oxygen sensor, and crank it to see if it fires. If so, you may have a plugged exhaust.

I had it towed to the garage, They had put it on a battery charger and sprayed starter fluid and cranked it for about ten minutes straight and started and so far is still starting. ??????? what do you think?

Falls in line with the rinsed cylinder walls, perhaps. But how did it get that way?, I couldn't tell you. Is the vehicle running fine still?

So far so good, Except the wife trying to take out the mailbox with it today.

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Electrical problem V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 103000 miles
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Just got this one from a friend and (have heard of it, but never seen it) the battery ground wire was fried in half and the batter had reversed polarity. Replaced solinoid and battery, repaired ground wire, but it's not getting spark. A few minor fuses were blown, but none of the larger and they quit popping once I figured out the reversed polarity and changed batteries. Everything looks normal now, but can't figure it out....

Scratch the question...the answer was the ignition module. Coil was fine and didn't need to replace it. Change out the battery and the IM, and it runs quiet as a mouse! Thanks anyway.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers, Ken

Gmc yukon1998 starts sometime. Doesnt start sometime. When it doesn't start it sputters then pauses then sputters like it is trying to start. Starting problem

check fuel pressure and suspect a bad fuel pump
also check if security light on and blinking

It has good fuel pressure

when you say its good what is the pressure ?

fuel pressure should be 60+ psi

Could it be my fuel regulator because i smeel gas

not likely. most of the issues with your vehicle revolve around fuel delivery.

did you actually measure the pressure??

Roy

Engine Performance problem
1998 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 132000 miles

Bought a new, used '98 Yukon in Oregon.

Runs very well; Auto 4wd, ABS, etc.

However, the first start of the day (or otherwise after sitting a very long while, more than a grocery shop, etc) it will not start on the first crank. It DOES typically start readily after the second crank. These cranks are typical in length and sound. Holding a startup crank does not yield results (as compared to two short cranks).

It is winter, so I am not sure if it turns over more readily when its warmer outside. This has been typical for ~20 to ~40ºF in temperature.

An arctic front came through last night and it hit below -0- and and under +10ºF. The truck did not start, despite long and short cranks. I eventually ran the battery low and have been recharging.

I am planning to give this to my retired Dad in Montana who needs a reliable vehicle, but can't afford much. What can I do to fix this problem?

Thank you.

theswe trucks are notorious for weak volume fuel pumps. try spraying a shot of starter fluid into intake and see if it will start, usually that little extra boost gets it running and it will stay running. to test for sure the fuel pump you will need to do a amp draw test on it and you will have to know how to use a multi meter. i will walk you through it if you would like.

So it does start, but it takes a few cranks or waiting until warmer later in the day to try again.

Do you think its a relay or switch or can you tell if it's weak based on the amp draw?

I would love some instructions to test that theory.

Could it be as simple as a new fuel filter, or do you expect the pump is the problem? Injector? O2? Air Intake? Anything else i should consider?

Thanks.

if you have not changed the fuel filter then i would do that first. the possibilities of preoblems are endless. its rare but a coolant temp sensor reading too hot could cause this problem because it leans out the injector because it thinks the engine temp is hotter than it actually is. the starter fluid is the easiest way to do a quick check but the amp draw test is more accurate. there is a fuel pump test lead near the fuse box under hood. it will be a single red wire with a female connector on it, you will need to connect your meter lead to this wire, put your meter on 10 amp dc scale and make sure you put the leads of your meter on the 10 amp hole. then put the other lead to battery and this will power up the fuel pump and tell you how many amps it is drawing. if its drawing 9 amps or less than the fuel pump is weak.

98 gmc Yukon not starting after hooking up battery charger reverse fuel pump not getting power replaced fuses and relays also fuel gauge on dash is stuck over the full point please help tried everything?

Check and test the computer controlled circuit of the fuel pump relay

How do I do that is it pretty simple, is it where the chow pump relay is ?

I checked to see if there was power to the relay and there was

Engine Performance problem
1998 GMC Yukon V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic 235000 miles

Truck would not start in the AM. it was very cold. I plugged it in and added about 10 gal. of fresh gas as it was down to less than a 1\4 tank, I also added some gasline antifreeze. Tried starting again shortly after and it did start, however it will idle or you can rev it in park and its smooth ever but now when I put it in drive and give it gas and it sputters and jerk steady until I take my foot of the gas. Why and what has happend so suddenly. Any help would be most appreciated

Check the TPS (throttle position sensor).