Fuel related code

Here it is, help with which o2 as well will be appreciated.

Hi,

The oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 2) will be on the driver's side. See pics 1 to 3 below.

Now, the idea that it is stuck lean could mean a few things. However, the first thing I would check for is either low fuel pressure or an engine vacuum leak. A leak or low pressure can be the cause of the misfire code as well.

Here is a link that explains how to test the oxygen sensor. If you find fuel pressure is good and there are no leaks, follow this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-oxygen-sensor-02-sensor

Let me know if this helps. Also, let me know if there are any strange odors or sounds from the exhaust. One last thing. Is this a 4.6L or 5.4?

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

4.6, exhaust is definitely not stock. So confused, so check fuel pressure first, what should it be?
If it is good it is most likely the sensor?
Bank 2 meaning after the catalytic.

Hi,

Here is what to do: First, we need to check for vacuum leaks. If there is one, it could be the cause of the lean fuel mixture.

Here is a link that explains how it's done. Let's do this first before we move on to anything different.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know what you find. Your findings will determine what we check next or if there is a need to check anything else.

Let me know. Hang in there. We'll get through this. I'm here is you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

Do you know what the normal range fuel pressure should be? No vacuum leaks. Changed coil and code is gone, but it still does this in the video when i hit the pedal fully, not gradually, as if it's out of fuel.

Hi,

As far as the fuel pressure, I attached the manufacturer's specs below. Note I highlighted a 4.6L V8. If you have the 5.4L, the pressure is the same.

Here is a link that explains in general how to check the pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If possible, place the phone near the exhaust so I can clearly hear what it's doing when you hit the throttle. I tried listening several times, but the sound quality on a computer limits what I hear. Hopefully, placing the recorder closer to the exhaust will help.

I also noticed the engine has some slight backfires when the throttle was released. Are there exhaust leaks? If so, are they before the catalytic converters?

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Am not seeing a fuel pressure port on the fuel rail.

Pressure via obd is 39 with engine off, when running also 38-39, fuel rail pressure volts 2.74.

Hi,

The pressure is perfect. Also, the FRPS voltage seems fine as well.

I dug around a little with regards to the P0193. See pic 1 below. If you look at pics 2 and 3, they provide the location of the FRPS.

In pic 1, the manual indicates to use pinpoint test DD. I attached that diagnostic list for you as well. However, it is very extensive. Take a look at it and let me know if this is something you feel comfortable doing.

Before attempting the diagnostics, make sure the connector at the sensor is in good condition, free of damage and corrosion.

Let me know,

Joe

See pics below.

The rail sensor took care of the codes. but am still having a minor issue that if you rev it up high it comes down all the way to below 500 RPMs before it levels off, and sometimes will cause it to stall if am going down the road and put it in neutral. what are things that can cause such things?

Hi,

The idle air control valve (IAC) is responsible for maintaining the idle speed. However, based on what you experience, it could be an engine vacuum leak as well.

If you look below, I attached a pic of the IAC. Make sure the connection is good and make sure the throttle plate fully closes. If everything looks good, try servicing the IAC. Here is a link explaining how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Before jumping right into the IAC, confirm there are no vacuum leaks. If nothing is found, then go to the IAC.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Thanks. The picture is showing the throttle body and the sensor on the left of it. I cleaned the throttle body but the sensor on the left is not something that can be cleaned, I removed it and it looks like a flathead screw driver that just sits inside this sensor, I also cleaned the map, so far so good, thanks.

Only thing that is strange is the way it revs, i have not owned a GT in a while but i assume this isn't right. In the video you see how the RPMs respond? If i floor the pedal all of a sudden i get this hesitation, more in the exhaust than the engine itself. If i slowly hit the gas pedal and steady it does not happen, possibly the fuel filter? And no issues while driving, i just cannot floor it while driving yet before i change the clutch as its shot.

Hi,

It sounds like a misfire. Have you gotten any misfire codes?

Joe

I did before for coil 2, but after i changed the coil it went away, so it's not misfiring. is it possible to get a misfire just on load? Possibly the plug is not good enough?

Hi,

When you hit full throttle, a lot of air and fuel get into the cylinders. So, it could misfire if the plugs are worn or there is another issue with the ignition system. When was the last time it was tuned up? Also, have you pulled plugs to inspect their conditions?

Joe

I will check the plugs tomorrow, most likely still factory, lol.

Hi,

Wow! If they have 177,000 miles on them, you got your money's worth from them.

Let me know. I'm interested in knowing what you find. Also, when you pull the coil off the plug, check to see if there is any oil down inside the tube or on the boot.

Take care,

Joe

10-4.

Never seen these plugs before and don't even know what to look for.

Hi,

I think you're right. They look original. There is basically nothing left to the electrode. I looked in my manual and attached the plug specs below. Also, I found a pic of what the electrode should look like.

These aren't going to be cheap. If I had to guess, I would think they will be around 10.00 a plug or more. I could be wrong. Let me know what the part number is on the plug and if it matches pic 1 below. Pic 2 shows what they should look like.

This could have a lot to do with the issue you're having.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Yes, i thought they are bad, but again i have never seen spark plugs that look like this, with a looo Round it. I can get a discount from a local store with my account so that shouldn't be too bad. Just weird looking plug, if I remember correctly, it maybe is an Autocraft.

Hi,

Welcome to the world of craziness. When I was young, I could get new spark plugs for under a dollar each. (Showing my age) LOL I was so upset about two months ago. I had to replace a motor mount on my wife's vehicle. To do it, the plenum needed to be removed and the engine lifted. I had absolutely no time to do it, so I sent it to the dealership. I know one of the techs there and he was going to do it. Although I could have done it myself, we needed the vehicle to be ready for vacation, and there was no time left for me.

Since the plenum was already off and the vehicle now has 100K on it, I said to throw a set of plugs in it. What a mistake. The dealer charged me 35.00 per plug (part cost). So, 6 plugs (thank God it wasn't a V8) were $210.00. Ugh!!! I was so mad.

The plugs in your vehicle should be Motorcraft. That's what the book shows as OEM. The part number I sent also was from the manual, so it should be correct unless something was updated. Note: The plugs are a high-performance design for "racing." Since you are now part of our family, you're not allowed to race. We don't want to lose you. LOL Spoken like a true father. LOL

Regardless, I feel that even if the plugs don't take care of the problem (and I feel they should), they really need to be replaced.

Let me know how things work out for you. I'm interested in knowing if that takes care of the issue.

Joe

Believe me i know, am not that young too, getting there, and getting tired. Most cars are designed without the tech or individuals in mind. On Audi's as you may know some of the v8s, you have to remove the motor to change a dang water hose, so i know what you mean. Yes, I will bite the bullet and buy them, it's going to be for sale soon, so she needs to run right. Will keep you posted. I meant to say the ones on it now are Motorcrafts.

Sounds good. And Audi? It seems directions for everything that needs to be done under the hood starts with "remove engine." LOL I've been there. But when they are running right, they are great vehicles to drive. I own two.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

Love Audi's, you are right, and right about remove engine.

After changing the plugs with OEM Motorcraft, the difference is unreal! Thanks guys

Wow! That sounds perfect now. Did you get the power back in addition to the response?

The plugs you showed me have to be original. I've never seen a spark plug that worn out. LOL Now, the ignition can burn the fuel when you nail the throttle. That's what it needed. The poor thing was misfiring with all the fuel introduced.

Take good care of yourself and no racing LOL. Also, please feel free to come back anytime in the future if you have questions. You are always welcome here.

Joe

No racing, just still love the sound on these, doing the clutch now.

Sounds good, and I agree. They have a sound all their own. Good luck with the clutch. If you need anything related to it, here is the link to start a new thread. Let us know if we can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Take care,

Joe