Fuel related code

Yeah. Your fuel pressure is low. Spec is 6 bar at key on which is 87 PSI. You are at 3 bar which is 43 PSI. This is assume you have the 3.6L engine. Do you have the turbo engine?

The fact that you have a code for the sensor, could just be a faulty reading but the fact that you have cold idle issues, points to a mechanical issue which low pressure would make sense.

Let me know what engine you have and we can go from there.

Non turbo 3.6l. Cold issues are not major just rough running at idle but revving the motor gives a smooth strong motor.

Yeah. Sounds like a weak fuel pressure issue. If you want to confirm it, hook up a mechanical gauge and see what it is while running. All that is doing is confirming the sensor is correct. However, I don't see any reason to doubt the sensor.

This means it could be a weak pump, restriction in the system. However, if it runs well it is not needed until it seems to get worse.

So after i measure the pressure by a gauge and confirm that it is low, how would i go about eliminating whether it is a sensor or a weak pump?

If a mechanical pump shows low pressure then the sensor is correct and its weak pump or other reason for low pressure. If the gauge is showing higher then the sensor is incorrect.

Where is the fuel gauge connector on this engine?

I copied it but never attached it. Sorry. Here is the process. It calls for special tools but it is not required.

So there is no traditional nipple? i got to remove the hose from the connector?

I have this kit would it work?

The gauge is fine. The only thing I don't know if the adapter for the engine. That kit should come with an application chart for each fitting. If it doesn't, do they include a call center? I have numerous tools that I have called and they are able to tell me which fittings apply to each vehicle.

I tried to cross reference the adapter number from the procedure but it doesn't pull anything. I would see if one fits on and if not, just see if you can call the company for an application chart.

But there is no fitting on the car, hoses only.

Just wanted to jump in. If there is no schrader valve, then you have to use a T at one point in the system. Basically, you are making a schrader valve to test the pressure. As he mentioned, the kit should indicate that type of set up. Most times a T is added at the fuel rail between the rail and the supply line.

It's just a thought.

Joe

You are correct. Sorry, I didn't look at the process that closely. At that point all you need to do is splice this gauge in the supply line. This kit may not have what you need to do this but I am sure any parts store will have a selection of fuel line fittings that you can make it using the fittings and then just rubber fuel line.

Does this make sense? If not I can try to make a diagram/drawing of what the set up will look like.

I may not be very familiar with all of that. is this the only way to get a reading? stupid VW, who doesn't provide a valve for fuel testing?

ya, if you can show me how to get it done and which of the hoses is the supply line. I assume the one that goes to the front of the motor where there is a sensor attached in the middle of it?

They are proud of their engineering ability and it shows here because a schrader valve is too easy.

You would need to find fittings that fit on the line and engine port. Take a look at the drawing. This is clearly just a rough idea of what it needs to do. The fuel pressure just needs to go through the gauge anyway it can.

Unfortunately there is no other way of confirming the sensor is accurate. The only option I think we have to to replace the sensor and see if it is any different. If it is then clearly that was the issue. If not then we have weak pressure. Clearly not desirable.

I will take a chance on the sensor and then see since it's cheap...Thanks. will keep you updated.. is it called fuel pressure sensor?

I see one that looks like it, but online it says that some of them are on top of the fuel pump.and some on the HPFP.

Yes It is. I just checked to see if there was a test for the sensor itself and surprisingly enough there was. This may not be easier then just replacing it but may be worth a try.

On right side of picture.

I don't see the same picture as the one you attached, not sure what am looking at is it by end of the valve cover close to the engine oil fill cap or under the intake?

This should help. Let me know if you still can't find and I will see what else I can get.

I don't think this is the same as mine. Check out my pictures.

Looks like this is the fuel supply line so this sensor in the fuel line should be it. Easiest way is to unplug it and then check codes with the key on. You should have an active code for the sensor.

Okay, will do. thanks

Hi again. Hay, I attached a picture of the T for testing pressure when they don't have a schrader valve. You should be able to get one anywhere.

Take care.
Joe

I have that, but how do i test it?

If you have that then you will need still need to find two fittings to make it work. One that goes into the actual fuel supply line and then just connect it to the one side of the T fitting. Then the other side that goes from the T fitting back to the rail where you will need the other fitting to go on the rail. The the gauge just threads onto the threaded part of the T fitting.

I sketched this out on Joe's picture.

So pretty much adding a sensor within the line itself, the sensor being the gauge, instead if relying in the fuel pressure sensor.

Exactly. You are simply verifying the sensor is telling you the correct pressure by using a "known good sensor" which is the gauge. This way you know if you have a pressure issue or a sensor issue.

But the line is going to bring in a lot of fuel once i disconnect it, not like a valve.

You mean when you unhook the line to put the gauge in line? Yeah, you will need a towel or rags. Once the existing pressure bleeds off it will stop. Clearly get everything hooked up with the key off so you don't have the pump creating pressure while you are trying to get it hooked up. You will not get much fuel out of the line but there will be some when you unhook it.

Then once everything is hooked up, cycle the key a few times to get the pump to build the pressure and prime the line and check for leaks. If there are no leaks, go ahead and start you pressure checking.

Thanks. So the line that already has the fuel sensor within it is the one to unhook. And so one side of the fitting will be metal while the other rubber, since we are keeping this T in the line.

Yes. That is the line that you need to measure the pressure on. Correct.

Changed the sensor on too in the rubber line, can you see any difference here?

Is there an option for "current fuel pressure"? I don't see it there. Thanks