Fuel pump circuit fuse m22

Neither. I cannot find that circuit on the diagram. Where are you measuring and what is the wire's color?

The fuel pump relay turns on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then it turns off again. It gets turned back on during engine rotation, (cranking or running). That is the safety feature on all fuel injected vehicles. In the event of a crash that ruptures a fuel line, the pump would dump raw gas onto the ground, creating a serious fire hazard. Instead, with no fuel pressure, the engine will stall. Once stalled, no more signal pulses will show up from the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. That tells the Engine Computer to turn the automatic shutdown, (ASD), and fuel pump relays off. That stops the fuel pump.

Even if the fuel pump relay was bypassed or stuck on, fuel pumps are designed to run continuously, and it would kill the battery long before the pump's motor burned out. I am sorry that I am unable to post the diagram. If you are back by the pump, the wire that feeds the pump is dark blue/orange. For accuracy, voltage readings should be taken with the connector plugged in. There will be rubber seals around the wires where you can back-probe them.

I am checking for power at the TPIM, fuse m22 has power constantly, even if the keys been in the off position for weeks.

It is a 2010 Dodge Ram.

I thought m22 would only energize if the key is turned forward, am I wrong?

It looks as though the bus bar that feeds those fuses should only have power with key on.

See the wiring diagrams below for more information.

Not all the time but maybe once every twenty five starts the fuel pump continues to run after the truck is turned off. Restarting it does not help the only way to get it to shut off is to pull fuel pump fuse than you can put it back in and it will be back to normal operation until it happens again it has acted up three times now. When it is stuck on the truck can be totally off no key in ignition and the pump will run continuously.

Hey CRAIG5820,

The fuel pump relay is integrated into the TIPM which you may be able to fix by trying the find the relay which is soldered in. Turn the key on and feel for the relay that clicks. Here is a diagram to help with the location.

Please let us know happens so it will help others.

Best, Ken

My truck won't start. When I turn the key to turn the battery on the two relay start buzzing and vibrating. So I went and purchased two new one and its still doing the same thing. Never delt with this problem before and I don't know what to do next.

What happens when you try to crank the engine? Have you checked the battery voltage? Buzzing relays is a common symptom of a battery with one shorted cell.

i can run a hot wire to pump and it works and i can ground the relay and it works i have 2 codes 1 is po 0443 which is perg controle valve circuit the other is po 1282 which is fuel pump relay iv replased the relay with a now good one and ran a hot wire to pump and it works i need to get truck smoged frustrated in calif

Have you checked for spark?

yes it has spark on the pick i sent 56 and 30 are hot key on 87 is ground when i ground 85 87 goes hot and truck runs

Rats. With the tests you've done, it does appear the computer is not grounding the fuel pump relay. It needs pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor to do that. If one of those signals is missing, there won't be spark.

Listen for the hum of the pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If you hear that, the fuel pump relay is good and the computer has control of it. If you don't hear it, suspect the computer, but before you condemn it, ground the relay coil right at the computer plugs. If the relay clicks on, that will confirm that wire between the relay and computer is okay. Next, there should be four ground wires, two listed as "signal" grounds and two as "power" grounds. The best test for them is a voltage measurement while the relay is bypassed and the engine is running. If you find more than a couple of tenths of a volt, check that wire for a corroded connection to the body.

tested all hots to computer and grounds,I grounded pin 19 at(c3) and relay worked pin 2 and pin 22 on(c1) both are hot im going to dive in and get the computer and hopping it taks care of the po1282 ill let u now what happends and thank you donation will be comming

caradiodoc, it was the computer i ended up using a 341ae insted of a 341ac becouse thats the only used one i could find for under a 100 dollers the last letter is a upgrade! thanks for your time i was a master teck for firestone 6 years ago un"till a chain snaped on the old alingment rack and the safty latches gave out and landed on me it broke my back owell. i dont chang parts untill its fixed,like alot of those (book smart) master tecks lol ! like my dady told me, do it right the first time or youll have to do it again have a nice day whhoooya

Sad to hear it was the 'puter but happy it's solved. Chrysler had extremely little computer trouble back then. I'm still on my original one in my '88 Grand Caravan daily driver with 230,000 miles.

Hope your back is better.

I know all about "book smart" too. I taught auto shop for nine years with another instructor who taught straight from the text book. That doesn't help someone be successful on the job.