Fuel issues, engine cranks but does not start

Hi,

When this happens, do you still hear the fuel pump actuate for a second or two when you turn the key to the run position? Also, since this is a universal pump, are you certain it produces the pressure needed for the engine to run?

Do me a favor. Check to see if there are diagnostic trouble codes stored in the computer. This vehicle has an OBD1 system and doesn't require a scanner to get codes. All you will need is a short jumper wire or even a paper clip. Follow the directions in this link and let me know if any codes are found.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/buick-cadillac-chevy-gmc-oldsmobile-pontiac-gm-1983-1995-obd1-code-definitions-and-retrieval-method

Let me know. Also, let me know how long it takes before it will restart.

Take care,

Joe

Took it to mechanic he looked at it 3 or 4 times and it did good with him and he said it was getting too much gas.

And he said the cheapest fix was to buy a new carburetor but ever since he put this electric fuel pump on it runs and it'll go three or four places then sit for a while then just turns over completely but will not come on.

And it's been making this noise.

Are there any repairs or ajustments on the carburetor to fix this?

Wow, I don't like that noise. Is that coming from the original mechanical fuel pump? Also, if it is getting too much fuel, the problem is either the pump is too powerful, the needle and seat in the carburetor is worn and allowing fuel to bypass, or the float in the carburetor is faulty or in need of adjustment.

I attached a pic below and highlighted the two items I referred to. The needle and seat is lifted by the float as fuel enters the carburetor. Once the required fuel level is met based on how the float is adjusted, the needle is closed and no more fuel can enter until the float drops and the needle is lifted back off the seat, and fuel can enter.

Let me know if that helps you. Also, pay attention to that noise. See if it is coming from where the mechanical pump is located. There is a push rod between the plunger on the pump that runs to a lobe on the camshaft. I have a feeling the cam lobe is making that noise due to wear and the likely reason an electric fuel pump was used.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply. Also, let me know if you see any dark gray or black smoke from the exhaust when it gives you trouble starting. And let me know if this is a 305, 307, or 350ci engine.

Take care,

Joe

I did not get the pictures, but the noise sounds like it's coming from the new fuel pump.

It's a 305.

Is the new pump a mechanical pump? An electric one wouldn't be under the hood. Can you take a picture of the new pump and upload it for me to see?

Let me know.

Joe

It was installed under the hood next to the firewall.

It's a Holly universal electric fuel pump.

This is where it's installed.

That is really close to where the original mechanical pump is located.

I copied your picture from above. I have an arrow pointing toward the engine. On the side of the engine block is where the OEM pump would have been. See if it is there. Pic 2 shows what you are looking for.

If you look at pic 3, it is an exploded view of the pump. I highlighted the pushrod that goes runs between the pump's plunger and the camshaft. I have a feeling the lobes are worn on the camshaft. As a result, the pushrod is banging on it. This would also explain why an electric fuel pump was used. Otherwise, the camshaft would have needed to be replaced.

If it is there, remove the two bolts and remove the pump. Inside, remove that pushrod. Reinstall the pump and see if the noise is gone. Since the pump is no longer being used, that rod is doing nothing productive.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

I was mistaken without the car running that electric pump makes that noise but also it smells bad of gas, and it floods, but mechanic tired of looking at it he says replace carburetor, but it only started doing this since this new pump has been put on.

I'm thinking I will go back to the mechanical one everything would go back to working and take that electric one away.

Hi,

Wow, if the electric pump is making that noise, it has to be bad. Is the fuel smell coming from the pump area or at the carburetor? Also, if the original mechanical pump was bypassed, there is a chance there is a problem with the camshaft.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Carburetor and inside the car you can smell it strong.

The guy said he installed it got better gas mileage, but I don't really buy into that.

Hi,

I agree. That makes no sense. As far as the smell is concerned, if you smell it both under the hood and in the vehicle and see no leaks, it must be related to the carburetor. When the engine is running, do you ever notice dark smoke from the exhaust?

Let me know.

Joe

Just white smoke comes from exhaust.

Hi,

White smoke? If it is constant white smoke, that usually indicated that engine coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. That is usually the result of a bad head gasket.

Take a look through this link and let me know if anything mirrors what you are experiencing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/head-gasket-blown-test

Let me know.

Joe

Is there any diagnosis checks I can do to check the life of the carburetor?

And now that you remind me of the coolant at idle the hot and cold needle moves closer to the middle but once I start driving it goes back down, I have replaced the hoes and thermostat.

Hi,

The temperature sounds like it is working correctly. As far as the carburetor testing, in this situation, the first thing that needs to be done is to locate the source of the smell. There is certainly a leak at some point and that needs to be addressed first.

With a carburetor, there really isn't a test to check life. When there is a problem, they are usually easily recognized. In your case, if there is too much fuel getting to the engine, I would be checking the float and the needle valve. I would even consider simply rebuilding it.

Do me a favor. Take pics of everything around the carb and video the smoke so I can see how much is coming out of the exhaust.

Let me know.

Joe

Now the car acts like it doesn't want to go and cut out, but once i take the air cleaner top and filter out it doesn't act up.

And it shakes.

By removing the air filter and housing top, you are allowing more unrestricted air to get to the engine. Is the air filter or anything related to it plugged and restricting airflow? That certainly would cause these issues.

On the air filter housing, there should be a snorkel or air inlet pipe. Inside that inlet is a butterfly that forces warm air to enter the engine when it is cold. Check to make sure nothing is blocking it.

Let me know.

Joe

Everything is clean. now it will not start at all. is there a way to unflood it to get excess gas out to start it up?

I'm just trying to get it started so I don't get stuck anywhere.

Hi,

If it is flooded, hold the throttle to the floor (don't pump it). Hold it steady while cranking. That will allow extra air to enter the engine and hopefully start. It may run rough at first but should clear up. If you still have the air filter removed, that will also help.

Let me know.

Joe

I tried that twice. I saw a guy had made a cardboard stick and poked the float bowl from the top to unstick it.

Hi,

The float is internal. I'm not sure how he would have accessed it. Are you sure it is flooded? Do you smell fuel?

Let me know.

Joe

Smell it bad and it want turn over for nothing.

You may need to remove the spark plugs and inspect them. Chances are they are soaked and fouled.

Let me know.

Joe

That's what the mechanic did the second time. I sent it and he said it was getting way too much gas and to replace carburetor or rebuild it, but it would cost a fortune to rebuild it and more to do that than to just buy an Eldlebrock.

Hi,

If that is the case, then certainly purchase a replacement. I know the kits to rebuild these carburetors are around $30.00, but I have no idea what labor costs are where you are.

Regardless, let me know if I can help in any way. Also, if that is the case and there is a lot of fuel getting into the engine, I recommend changing the oil.


Take care.

Joe

Can you send me the adjustment specs for this carburetor if there are any? I might try to do it myself.

Hi,

The only adjustments I have are for the choke and front and rear vacuum break adjustment. I attached them below. If the choke isn't opening, that certainly will cause a rich fuel mixture.

Let me know.

Joe

And can I get the torque specs for the fuel pump mechanical? I'm just going to get rid of the electric one and go back to that.

Hi,

The bolts are to be tightened to 30 ft/lbs. I attached the directions below. Make sure when you tighten it, do it evenly. The housing is aluminum and it's not hard to break one of the ears off.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.