Fuel filter removal issue

Good morning,

At this point, you will need to replace the line from the fuel filter to the tank. Once that is stripped, there is no turning back and with it that way, you have no chance to get it tight enough to not leak.

You need to get the line from the dealer and hopefully they still make it for you. If not, you need to go to a junkyard and find one in good shape.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

Roy

Alternatively, I was thinking of cutting the fuel line close enough to the fuel filter and connecting a fuel line with a compression fitting that comes already flared with the fitting as shown in the attached picture, instead of replacing the entire fuel line. Does that sound like a good and safe resolution? It's a fuel line repair kit and the part # is Dorman 800-151.Thank you!

I am not a fan of those kits. The coupler attaching to a 25 year old line does not sit well with me. It may crush and not seal causing a leak. It is worth a try but make sure you keep an eye on it.

Roy

So, by using a steel fuel line kit, there might be a chance that the coupler crushes and not seal properly causing a leak due to the age of the car. If I try that method and it doesn't work, can I then also use a rubber fuel line hose with a clamp? I would imagine that a clamp would be very tight and not cause a leak.

I would not use a rubber hose either due to the high pressure.

You need steel to contain the pressure.

Roy

Did you respond? I got an e mail but nothing came through.

Roy

Never mind, I think it was by mistake.

Okay, no worries.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Roy

You had expressed some reservation about using a steel fuel line kit, since there might be a chance that the coupler crushes and not seal properly, thus causing a leak due to the age of the car. If it does end up leaking, is that something that would happen right away once the engine is running or could it happen at some point in the future?



As mentioned, buying an existing fuel line is is another option. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a fuel line for my car at a junkyard or even a new one for that matter. Hence, I was considering buying a regular steel line that's designated for fuel and making my own fuel line by creating all the bends at the right spots. I'm sure it will be an interesting project. Is there some sort of schematic for the fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the fuel tank that you can provide? How long is the fuel line?

Thank you!

Cheers!

Okay, if you do that repair, it could leak at any time trying to mate a new line to a 25 year old line.

Replacing with new is a great idea. I would remove the old line first to get an idea on length. It will also give you the routing. There is not diagram of the routing of the line itself.

You can get the line at a parts store.

Roy

When threading the flare nut into the fuel filter, how tight should it be? What is the recommended torque spec? I understand that it needs to be tight enough, so there won't be a leak, but over-torquing is also a concern.

Thank you!

Cheers!

Correct.

The spec is 22 ft. pounds.

Roy

Since using a socket on the flare nut is not an option, how would one use a torque wrench on an open-end wrench or on a flare nut wrench?

The 6 point socket has a 3/8 hole in the end for attaching a 1 or 3 inch extension so you can use the torque wrench.

Flare nut socket is what you need and a 3/8 torque wrench.

Roy

Can you please show me a picture of what you mean?

Thanks!

I attached the set from Harbor Freight for you.

https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-metric-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-7-pc-68999.html?_br_psugg_q=flare+nut+wrench+set

Roy

Oh, okay! A crowfoot flare nut wrench is what I had in mind as well. When you mentioned a flare nut "socket," I thought you might be referring to the attached picture.

Thank you!

That would work as well.

Roy

In fact, I think that tool in the picture I attached is probably the ideal tool to use when removing the fuel filter.

By the way, would it be a good idea to put anti-seize on the threads of the flare nut fitting, so that it will be easier to remove it in the future?

Thank you!

Absolutely not. Add nothing to the threads, Just torque it to spec.

Roy

Is it because it would contaminate the fuel or are there other reasons?

Is there some sort of a chart that you can provide that has all the torque specs for this car? It would really come in handy whenever I'm working on my car.

Thank you!

Cheers!

I attached the torque specs below for you.

Roy

Are you sure these are all the torque specs for my car? For instance, I don't see the specs for brake components and suspension components just to name a few.

By the way, the torque spec for the fuel filter flare nut - is what I have circled in the attached picture what you were referring to? If not, then which one is it on that chart?

In terms of absolutely not using anti-seize on the fuel filter flare nut- is it because it would contaminate the fuel or are there other reasons? Just as nuch as there are people who oppose the use of it, there are people who do advocate it, so I was just wondering what the downside is?

Thank you!

Cheers!

The never seize will corrode the line and fitting.

I gave you the reading fr the replacement line which is not the same as the OEM. The OEM is a heavier line versus the steel line from the parts store.

You could probably get a service manual that will list all the torque specs for all the areas of the car. A Haynes manual would most likely have them. There are so many torque specs.

I can only deal with the specs for the system we are talking about for this thread. If you like, start a new question for nothing but torque specs and I can get them for you.


Roy

So, there is only a difference of 1 ft-lbs between the OEM and the replacement line?

Yep.

Does not seem like much but it makes a difference.

Roy

What about the compression fitting - how tight should it be or is there a recommended torque spec for it? I have attached a picture of it.

Thank you!

Cheers!

For what? That is what I told you not to use. Using that in a 20+ year old line will not seal. It will crush the old line and will leak.

Roy

If you remember, you also mentioned that it was worth a try, but to keep an eye on it. I have also asked around some people who have used that method on their very old cars to see how it has been holding up for them, and they have said that they haven't experienced any problems or leaks. Nevertheless, I'm willing to give it a shot and see how it goes. If it fails, I already have my backup plan of assembling my own fuel line with a new steel line that is available in auto parts store.

So, how tight should the compression fitting be or is there a recommended torque spec for it?

Thank you!

Cheers!

There is no torque spec for it.

You just make it tight. Make sure you inspect it when you get it running to be sure it is not leaking.

Roy

I forgot about the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter. What is the torque spec for it?

Thank you!

Cheers!

Okay, make sure you use new copper washers and the torque is 20 pounds.

Roy

Yes, I noticed the fuel filter comes with 2 new washers.

Thank you!

Cheers!

You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy

Is a premium nickel-copper line a better option instead of a steel line to replace the fuel line?

Thanks!

Cheers!

Yes, that would be acceptable for the line.

Roy