Engine low power

Hello,

It sounds like you have a fuel pump that is going out. Here is a test you can do to confirm.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and can rent a fuel gauge from the auto parts store for free if you don't have one.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-electric-fuel-pump

Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Here is what its like to change the pump on your car (below)

Cheers, Ken

I fixed a misfire in the car and had no codes. On my way to work during a snowstorm the car when it shifted started losing power and throwing a misfire code a long shift code a ebtcm internal fault code and battery low voltage code all came on at the same time.
The miss isn't constant its intermittent.
The codes are:
B1327
C1255
P0300
P1811

I would check the battery cables and ground cables from engine to chassis and body at both ends for loose or corroded connections. All of the other systems rely on stable voltage to read the sensors and power the various modules. If the battery or alternator suddenly start dropping out it can cause a lot of odd issues and codes. Have seen it more than once with a bad cable or battery.

That could cause a misfire and have the car do all the other weird things and throw the codes?

Yes, it could as all of the systems need a stable and correct battery voltage to work properly. A lower voltage can cause the crankshaft and camshaft sensors to react in strange ways, the fuel pump can act up due to low voltage as well. The ABS reads signals from the wheel speed sensors and depends on having the proper voltages as well.
Voltage drop from a bad connection or corrosion can cause a lot of issues.

Okay, thank you very much!

It's also an easier first step when it has a bunch of codes with one being low battery. As it started during a snowstorm it could easily be moisture intrusion into a connection as well. But checking the common issues first is a start.

the engine stalls, idles irradically, loses power in first gear, what causes this

Do you have a check engine light and when was the last tune-up? Also what liter engine?

Go to these links and review it then let me know:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Throttle position sensor. It tells the fuel system how much fuel to push through the engine. When it goes bad, it just runs like crap. Replace it, and it fixes a lot.

Idles rough an when I step on accelerator it rpm's drop below 600. I've replaced ICM, coil packs, plugs an plug wires, camshaft position sensor. It will randomly run okay.

Hello,

It sounds like you may have a broken valve spring or a dirty throttle body. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so we can see what's going on? that would be great. You can upload it here with your response. This guides can help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down these guides and report back.

Runs good on flat ground, but on a hill has no power, misses and has a whining sound.

Good morning,

Sounds like you have a clogged exhaust from a clogged catalytic converter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

I would have a back pressure test done to confirm.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Installed in the exhaust pipe between the exhaust manifold and muffler, under the vehicle.

Roy

1992 Buick Park Ave ultra 3.8l super charged mileage: 143,000. Easy highway miles, car drives like new except: Only when engine fully warm, at highway speeds, motor bogs down when I step on the gas. Instead of a downshift and power surge, the tachometer indicates slower rpm, and the engine decelerates the car. If I keep my foot on the gas, I hear a clanking from the engine. The only way to resume acceleration (or just maintain speed) is to let off the gas and or downshift manually. Just put in new plugs, fuel filter, air filter (all were in bad shape). But problem persists. When problem is really bad, it will even happen if I rev the engine in neutral (while rolling down the highway at 60 mph). No mechanics can identify the problem (supercharger?), and this car is too good to let go of. Please help. Thanks.

Check the catalytic converter to make sure it is not “plugged” or restricted. Your car is equipped with a computer controlled engine management system. An independent auto service center can scan your computer for fault or error codes. The information should pinpoint the mal functioning components.

Engine Performance problem
1991 Buick Park Avenue 6 cyl Automatic
----------------------------------------------------------------
Driving normal on a three lane street when all of a sudden the car began to accelerate, without my doing it. It got so bad I almost burned out my brakes trying to stop before running into back of another car. I pulled into a station, stopped the car, lifted the hood, moved the accelerator link a few times, got back in the car and had no problem since. What could have happened, could it happen again?

you have to check/replace throttle position sensor. but first you must clean your throttle plate and linkage, it could be sticking. the throttle position sensor is last resort.your throttle plate and linkage just may be sticking

After changing the coil, the battery, and the alternator my car does a little better, but it still has this problem of random stalling, slow acceleration no matter how hard I push the gas, and loss of engine power. And it idles high with putting until it finally shuts off.

Good morning.

The first thing I would do is check the fuel pressure to be sure sufficient pressure is delivered to the injectors. you can rent a tester at a parts store to verify.

The other thing is a clogged catalytic converter. it would restrict the exhaust flow and you would experience low power and erratic running.

Roy

Hello ASHELY,

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros. Here is a helpful link to an article from this site with step by step instructions and pictures explaining the process of checking the fuel system pressure, regulator and fuel pump in less than fifteen minutes:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If you need further assistance please come back to the site we are always happy to help.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

A few weeks ago my car started vibrating when I get to about 50 and try to accelerate. The other morning I left for school and about a mile down the road it quit accelerating. I had to push the pedal to the floor to get it to 30mph. I assumed it was the cat. converter. I had my boyfriend cut it off and put on a flex pipe (no emissions testing here). I've already replaced the air shaft sensor, coil pack and ignition module along with the alternator, steering pump, water pump, spark plug wires. I dont have the cash to just take it in. I'd rather just start with the easy obvious things. Any ideas?

I would start with checking fuel pump pressure. There are directions on our home page under the DIY section. Next, if the check engine light is on, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most parts stores will do it for free. It could deal with a bad throttle position sensor or major vacuum leak too so keep that in the back of your mind.

I had exact same problem with the 1998 buick park avenue that has 86k when i bought used; after drove for 5,000 miles, it accelerate short distance than stop but engine still maintain same rpm. i checked tranny fluid, was ok. i drove it the next morning but the car doing the same thing. after cool down for 15 minutes i made it to the auto repair shop. it was a major shock it to my wallet; rebuilt tranny set me back $2,500. Buick is known for tranny going south once reachs over 75K to 100k miles. the previous owner must have known this problem.