Front wheel riders side noise

Yes. More than likely this is a wheel bearing because they get louder when loading that side of the vehicle which is what you are doing when you turn to the left.

Unfortunately the only way to correct that on your vehicle is to replace the hub assembly as the bearings are not serviceable like they are on 2WD vehicles.

Let me know if you need more info.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-wheel-bearings-and-seals

i just had my rear wheel bearings changed and that noise is gone but now i have a new noise its a little higher pitched than the bearing noise and it only happens in the 45-60 mph range when i give it gas as soon as i take my foot off the gas the noise is gone it sounds like its only coming from the passenger side. what do you think it is?

it may be normal noise from gears in axle have the rear end lube checked but if its 'that not a lot you can do about it unless it really bugs you then they would need to check clearances in axle and even if ok it still may not go away. you can also check u-joints in driveshaft and center bearing if you have one.

How do I replace rear wheel bearings on a 2004 Ford Explorer? It has independent suspension. Do I need to take the nuckle joints off?

2.Remove the axle-to-wheel hub retainer nut and washer.
3.Remove the parking brake shoes.

WARNING
Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV-joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV-joint components can result.

4.Press the outboard CV-joint until it is loose from the hub.
5.Remove and discard the toe link-to-wheel knuckle nut.

WARNING
Do not damage the boot while separating the toe link from the wheel knuckle.

6.Remove the bolt and separate the toe link from the wheel knuckle.
7.Remove and discard the upper arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.

WARNING
Do not damage the boot while separating the ball joint from the wheel knuckle.

8.Remove the bolt and separate the upper arm from the wheel knuckle.
9.Remove and discard the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle nut.
10.Remove the lower arm-to-wheel knuckle bolt.
11.Remove the wheel knuckle.
12.Using a suitable press, remove and discard the wheel hub.
13.Remove and discard the wheel bearing retainer ring.
14.Using a suitable press, remove the wheel bearing.

is it difficult to change the front wheel bearing on a 2004 ford explorer.

Here are the procedures, you decide if it is easy or not.

Removal and Installation
1. On 4x4 vehicles, loosen the axle retainer nut.
Fig. 66: Loosening Axle Retainer Nut (4x4 Vehicles)

NOTE:
The wheel speed sensor electrical connectors are located in the engine compartment secured to the fender aprons.
Fig. 67: Disconnecting Wheel Speed Sensor

2. Disconnect the wheel speed sensor.

3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

4. To remove wheel bearings, carry out steps 1 to 8.

5. Remove the components in the order indicated in the following illustration and table.

Fig. 68: Identifying Wheel Bearing, Hub, Knuckle, Upper Arm And Lower Arm Components


To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Item 1: Axle-to-Wheel Hub Nut Removal Note
1. Remove the nut and, using the special tool, separate the outboard CV joint from the wheel hub.

Fig. 70: Separating Outboard CV Joint From Wheel Hub Using Special Tool


Item 2: Speed Sensor Harness Removal Note
1. Detach the wheel speed sensor harness from the brake hose.

Fig. 71: Detaching Wheel Speed Sensor Harness From Brake Hose

Item 5: Brake Caliper, Pads and Anchor Plate Removal Note

CAUTION:Do not allow the brake caliper to hang from the hose or
damage to the hose can occur.

1. Position the caliper, pads and anchor plate aside.

Tires and Wheels problem
2004 Ford Explorer Four Wheel Drive Automatic
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What is the procedure for replacing the rear wheel bearings on a 2004 Ford Explorer?

I have been looking online for a parts break-down or something to show what I need to do, but I haven't found one yet.

Our Ford dealer told us that on the front wheel bearings you replaced the hub and all. Is this the case for the rear wheels also?

I recently replaced my front wheel bearing (hub assembly and all) part cost $185.00 and took me (not a mechanic at all!!!) about 3 hours.

All I did was:
-remove the wheel
-remove the brake pads
-remove the caliper (two bolts)
-remove a mounting bracket (two bolts)
-remove the hub (three bolts)
*the old bearing took some pounding to get out once the bolts were out, which were the biggest pain. I reccommend heating the bolts because there is lock-tight substance on the threads which made them very difficult to remove.
-clean the space where the old wheel bearing/hub come from
-inserting the new wheel bearing/hub
-put back together.

I am not sure if its the same on your 04' and since you have a 4x4 it may be different. if not, its not too painful to do.

hope this helps

While out of town, my car began making horrible rubbing/grinding sounds at about 26 mph. I took it to Century Ford in Mt Airy, Md, where I was staying. It was friday afternoon, I appreciate the lateness of my arrival. But I really feel that I was taken.
It was diagnosed as left front wheel bearing gone bad. They charged me $270 for the bearing assembly and $200 labor.... I had no choice, I had to get it fixed as I did not want to drive 500 miles home to get it fixed. What would have been a reasonable price for this repair?
Thank you,
Ellen Green

The price for the part is about right. It is a hub and bearing assembly and is not servicable. I can't remember for sure, but I think the ABS sensor is also a part of that assembly. As far as the labor is concerned, that depends on what the labor rate was. The flatrate charge should have been somewhere around 2 to 2.5 hours to replace.

I recently replaced the front wheel bearings and now my abs light won't go off. You have any idea what that might be and is it dangerous to drive with that on. Thank You

when the abs light is on it means it doesn't work it's still safe to drive you just won't have abs anymore until it's fixed. you need to get it scaned to see what the problem is. But as you replaced the wheel bearings i'd suspectyou damaged one or both of the sensors for the abs. But get it scannedto see if one or any are bad.

I am a decent machanic and would like try replacing the fromt wheel bearings on this car. Would you reccomend this only to the pros or is it reasonable to DIY. If I do it should I buy the whole hub and bearing assembly to make it easier? What tools will I need.

Wheel bearings are not adjustable. The wheel bearings and hubs are serviced as an assembly. Its an easy job the only hard thing would be removing axle nut this is what I have for step by step HUB & BEARING Removal & Installation Remove and discard the axle-to-wheel hub nut. Disconnect the Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) wheel speed sensor connector located in the engine compartment, secured to the fender aprons. Raise and support vehicle. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Detach the speed sensor wiring harness from the retainers. Remove the bolts and position the brake caliper and support bracket aside. Do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the brake hose. Provide a suitable support. Remove the brake disc. CAUTION:Do not overextend the CV joint and boots when removing the wheel hub. Using the Front Wheel Hub Remover (D93P-1175-B), press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub. See Fig. 1 . Remove the three hub bolts and discard them. See Fig. 2 . Remove the wheel hub and sensor as an assembly. Apply a thin coat of Silicone Sealant (F7AZ-19554-EA) to the wheel hub mounting surfaces before installation. To install, reverse the removal procedure. Install NEW fasteners where necessary. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification

We changed the wheel bearings couple months ago, but she said they are starting to make a noise again. Can we get grease in them without replacing them again? Bearings should still be okay. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks, Carla Reed

The biggest cause of repeat failures is improper assembly procedure. Specifically, the axle nut has to be tightened to its very high torque spec with a click-type torque wrench before any vehicle weight is placed on it. A lot of do-it-yourselfers set the vehicle down with the tire on the ground to hold the axle from rotating when they tighten that nut. By that time it's too late. The damage has been done. Instead, poke a pry bar into a hole in the brake rotor to hold the axle from spinning, then tighten the nut.

Sorry it's a 5.0 instead of 5.2.

Thank you. We like to know the engine size, mileage, and transmission type to tailor our replies, and to prioritize the list of suspects, but in this case, I should have added that when a new wheel bearing becomes noisy days or weeks after it was installed, it is more likely to be the axle nut was tightened, but without a click-type torque wrench. This applies to the bolted-on bearing assemblies that call for around 180 to 240 foot pounds, which is a lot higher than you'd expect to be needed.

The front wheel bearings I found listed for your vehicle are of the older tapered design. For those, the axle nut must not be tightened as I just described for the bolt-on style. In fact, one of the causes of early failure is over-tightening them. That puts so much force on the rollers that they squeeze the grease out as they rotate. The metal-to-metal contact between the rollers and the "races" they run on leads to rapid wear and often overheating.

Once a bearing becomes noisy, adding grease won't help. Small bumps or indentations have developed on those highly-polished races. The buzzing noise comes from the roller bearings running over those bumps.

Shakes or Wobbles problem
1998 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I just had the wheel bearing replaced and while im driving and ge up to 60mph it shakes quite abit is there something wrong??
second question....where is the 4x4 computer in the explorer??? think it needs replaced but have no idea where it is...
thank you for your time
lori boozer

The shaking should not happen. Has this just started since they replaced the bearings?

As far as the 4wd computer, there isn't one just for the 4wd. There is an actuator on the transfer case that engages the 4wd. Is that what you are refering to?

how to replace front wheel bearing

Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove and discard hub nut and washer. Remove brake caliper and brake caliper bracket assembly. Remove brake rotor retaining screw (if equipped), and remove brake rotor. Remove 3 brake rotor shield retaining bolts, and remove brake rotor shield. Remove ABS sensor retaining bolt, and disconnect sensor.
Remove 3 wheel hub retaining bolts, and remove wheel hub and bearing assembly. DO NOT over-extend CV joint. Slide hub and bearing assembly off of CV axle shaft splines. CV joint should slip fit into wheel hub and bearing assembly and should not require puller to remove. Remove steering knuckle grease seal. Inspect steering knuckle grease seal, hub and bearing assembly for excessive wear and damage. Replace components as necessary.
Installation
Using Bearing Cup Replacer (T80T-4000-P), Knuckle Seal Replacer (T96T-1175-A) and Threaded Drawbar (T77F-1176-A), install seal until it seats against steering knuckle. Connect ABS sensor to wheel hub and position wheel hub assembly onto axle shaft and knuckle. Install hub retaining bolts and tighten to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install NEW washer and hub nut, and tighten to specification.
Install ABS sensor bolt and tighten to specification. Install brake rotor shield and tighten bolts to specification. Install rotor. Install brake caliper and brake caliper bracket assembly. Tighten bolts to specification. Install wheel and lower vehicle. Before driving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to restore normal pedal position.

I am following the instructions in the Chilton's manual to replace the front wheel bearings and am having trouble removing the rotor. I can't seem to find the cotter pin

4x4 has no cotter pin check the fig. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

94 ford explorer 4wd having a problem with front wheel bearings coming loose is thier a perment fix for this problem?

This is a fairly common problem with this model. Mine does the same thing! And I have 30 years of experience as a Ford technician!

I have found that if you follow the shop manual procedure for tightening the bearings, and they are using the proper lube, they tend to stay tight longer. However, this seems to be just one of those things that requires periodic maintenance.

Tires and Wheels problem
1994 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

how do you replace front wheel bearing?

I have a 2002 Ford Explorer XLT with 118,000 miles. It's a 2 wheel drive with V6. Have just put new tires, front rotors and brake pads but I hear road nosie seemingly from the right front but cannot be exactly sure. Noise gets louder as speed increases, kind of a humming or whinning sound then reduces as speed decreases. Could this be a wheel bearing problem?

could be, the way to check other than pulling the wheel off is jack the explorer front end off the ground, wiggle the tire back and forth to see if there is any play. with the wheel jacked up and in neutral turn the wheel by hand while you are gentle touching the spring. you will be able to feel it through the spring if the bearing is going bad. take a little practice but it works.