front brakes locked up after driving about 15 minutes

1999 DODGE DURANGO
230,000 MILES • 5.2L • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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BRITANYSHERMAN
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My front brakes are locking to the point that they are smoking it seems like after the truck has been running around town for 15 min the brake pedal gets really hard but will still stop but the brakes are rubbing on the calipers so bad that if I let off the gas the car will come to a complete stop after about 20 feet depending on how fast I am going.

We have replaced the calipers front brakes back brakes steering knuckle on passenger side we are at a loss for what it could be there are no lights like the engine or the abs please help also when the brakes are locked the proportioning valve has like a little nipple that is stuck out and when the brakes are unlocked it moves in and out as you push on the brake and release. Please help
Oct 24, 2014 at 3:06 PM
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CARADIODOC
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The next time this happens, loosen the line nuts on the master cylinder. If that lets the brakes release, the booster push rod is misadjusted and is holding the brake pedal down a little not allowing the pressure to be released inside the brake master which holds the brake on.
Oct 24, 2014 at 4:46 PM
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BRITANYSHERMAN
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I can loosen any of the bolts and it release the pressure and the proportioning valve metering needle retracts then its fine for another 15 minutes or so and then it lock's again. Could the brake booster be causing the metering needle to stay out ? Or is that the proportioning valve going out ?
Oct 24, 2014 at 5:10 PM
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CARADIODOC
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The proportioning valve is just an often-overlooked symptom or clue, not the cause. Look at the rubber bladder seals under the reservoir caps. If they're blown up and mushy, the brake fluid is contaminated. Can you move the booster push rod adjustment inward?
Oct 24, 2014 at 5:29 PM
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BRITANYSHERMAN
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Ok so I checked and nothing seems to be wrong with under the reservoir cap. I let the pressure out of the line and drove the truck to the store and back and by the time I got to my house the brakes were locking up already. So I removed the brake master and found the rod you were talking about and gave it 4 turns inward now the brakes work great! Thanks fo the help I love this site.
Oct 24, 2014 at 5:46 PM
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CARADIODOC
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Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers
Oct 24, 2014 at 7:10 PM
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SHAYL RASGAT
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im having this same issue on a toyota tazz, any ideas what may cause this? i have replaced the master cylinder, calliper kit, hose pipes are clear and not clogged
Apr 25, 2019 at 4:55 AM
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CARADIODOC
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Please start a new question specific to your vehicle. This was a private conversation between two people. As such, none of the other experts are going to see your addition or have a chance to reply. That won't get you the help you need. Your brake system and common problems will be different than for the vehicle listed here.

Please be sure to list the engine size, transmission type, and mileage. We use that information when making generalizations as to best suspects and which tests to perform. Also, since this a brake-related problem, please include whether the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, and include as much other information as possible, including what you've done already, and the results.

Here's the link to take you directly to where to post your new question:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
Apr 25, 2019 at 11:09 AM
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LOUSTERG
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I had the same issue - re: front brakes completely locking up after car warmed up, even when it didn't leave the driveway - with our 1988 Toyota Camry. To a tee, I followed the same path as the original poster. And arrived at the exact same conclusion and results. This site was the ONLY place I found the solution - I was at my wit's end. I realize the site is advertising supported but I would also like to donate a bit of cash. If a Paypal link were provided, I would do so.
Nov 10, 2019 at 12:41 PM