air conditioner will not work?

2004 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
188,000 MILES • 3.8L • 6 CYL • FWD • AUTOMATIC
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N2AUDIO
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Hello, I am a reasonably competent amateur mechanic although not well versed in A/C.

Earlier this spring my A/C worked fine. Then one day a couple weeks ago there was nothing. I located the clutch relay, pulled it, and shorted the power leads. The system worked and cooled. I have tested the relay for continuity when energized, also good. I have swapped that relay with an identical relay from a different circuit, no change. I have checked the clutch/compressor fuse is good.
I have tried a new pressure (trinary?) switch, no help.

At that point I had a professional basic a/c service (evacuate, check for leaks, refill with precise amt of Freon/dye). The system checked out (slightly high on Freon, not enough to cause a problem), but they also were unable to get the compressor to run. I am currently unable to part with the vehicle for a full diagnosis.

After that I removed and disassembled my ICM (integrated control module, fuse/relay box under the hood) to check for signs of deteriorated wiring or burn marks, all looked good.
I removed my wheel well liner to inspect the PCM. There was some light surface rust on the outside and water stains, but no signs of obvious problems. I removed the four connectors and wiped everything down. The contacts looked clean.

I do not know what else to do.
Jun 15, 2017 at 9:07 AM
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STRAILER
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Hello,

It looks like there is a compressor relay as well as several fuses that run the system. Here is a wiring diagram (below) and a guide to help you do some testing to get the problem fixed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

See where the system is dropping the power or not getting signal

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

Jun 17, 2017 at 5:23 PM
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N2AUDIO
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Thanks Ken. I had found some other schematics as well. These seem to be a little more detailed. I posted at the chrysler minivan forum and auto ac forum and got little help.
Jun 18, 2017 at 8:46 PM
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STRAILER
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Please let us know what happens, we are interested to see what it is. This video can help as well

https://youtu.be/4UjfQKvrB6Y

Cheers, Ken
Jun 19, 2017 at 10:05 AM
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N2AUDIO
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I have 12v+ at pin 30 of the a/c relay and 15 ohms from pin 87 to batt (-).
And I have 12v+ on pin 86 when the a/c switch is turned on at the hvac control.

I'm good to the relay, right?
Jun 23, 2017 at 7:19 AM
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STRAILER
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Yep the relay is good it sounds like. Do you have power at the compressor?
Jun 23, 2017 at 11:08 AM
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N2AUDIO
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I didn't go directly to the compressor this time, but if I pull the relay and short the 30/87 contacts the compressor runs and cools.
Jun 23, 2017 at 8:25 PM
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HMAC300
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off you short it and it works. then it's fuse box not making contact try tweeking prongs onrelay and using dielectric grease on them to make compressor work
Jun 24, 2017 at 7:58 AM
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STRAILER
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There is a air conditioner pressure sensor near near the throttle body that sounds like it is bad.

Use the wiring diagram above to test to see if its getting power.

Please let me know
Jun 24, 2017 at 10:41 AM
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N2AUDIO
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I swapped in a new pressure sensor early on as a wild guess fix. Nothing changed.
I measured voltage on the 5v supply line at 4.9. The pressure sensor wire was 1.04 or 1.05v. I also measured continuity on the ground lead and got around 15 ohms which seemed a bit high, but I was using a very thin pin stuck through the wire as a contact so maybe not exactly accurate -- or something to do with using a random bolt up near the radiator as my other point of contact.
Jun 24, 2017 at 8:11 PM
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STRAILER
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Does terminal 86 and 30 have power still?
Jun 26, 2017 at 9:32 AM
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N2AUDIO
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30's always hot. 86 gets 12v when the a/c button on the control panel is on.
Jun 26, 2017 at 12:05 PM
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N2AUDIO
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Hmac3000 i disassembled the whole fuse box to check for worn wiring or connections. If it was something like an opened up connection at a fuse i would think that would show up with just a wiggle test.
Jun 26, 2017 at 12:09 PM
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N2AUDIO
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Tech says evap temp sensor. Repair cost over 1k. I will either figure out how to do it myself or get by w/o a/c. I have no info on the sensor other than the tech saying the dash has to come out. Can't find a listing for the part either.
Jul 11, 2017 at 9:42 AM
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HMAC300
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I am assuming this is manual control if it were me i'd try going through glove box with it out and getting evap sensor as it is on top of hvac.there are only 2 bolts for that and harness but here is stuff in pics enjoy
Jul 11, 2017 at 12:10 PM
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N2AUDIO
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It's auto
Jul 11, 2017 at 12:22 PM
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HMAC300
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I think it will be the same but let us know about that stuff in future you are very lucky it's underhood and dash doesn't need to be pulled see pics.
Jul 11, 2017 at 12:36 PM
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N2AUDIO
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This can be done w/o evacuating the refrigerant?
Jul 12, 2017 at 2:04 PM
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HMAC300
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no evacuate then recharge as it looks like it's attached to expansion valve and that has to come off
Jul 12, 2017 at 3:19 PM
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N2AUDIO
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Got it done. Wasn't terribly difficult. Had some problem locating the part because the evaporator temp sensor on this vehicle is actually PART of the expansion valve. The dealership sold me the wrong part.
The OEM expansion valve is a $120 part. I found an aftermarket option for $32.
Also had a problem with the bolts holding the expansion valve to the firewall. The bolts thread into a block of aluminum and the threads partially stripped on removal. I had to buy a tap and die kit to clean the aluminum off the bolt. Luckily the female threads were intact enough to allow the bolt to tighten on reassembly.
Aug 3, 2017 at 9:57 AM
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STRAILER
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Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken
Aug 3, 2017 at 10:44 AM
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JBLEE562
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When I turn on the AC there is no cold air coming out just regular air. Matter of fact I'm even sure if the AC is even turning on since I don't hear anything being engaged in the engine compartment. What could it be?
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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ASEMASTER6371
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most likeyl out of freon form a leak. have the system tested for a leak.

Roy
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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JBLEE562
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thank you. I'll do just that.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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CCMAMA
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We recently replaced the filter and just prior to that a few times my front ac would not blow and then after a few minutes it would come on by itself. Also sometimes it would come back on if I hit a bump. Now only rear ac blows....why? What could be wrong? Thankyou
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Is it the fan that stops working or does the AC change direction, or do you loose cool air?
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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CCMAMA
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nothing blows in the front at all....only the back a/c works......could it be the resistor? Thanks!
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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It the blower motor doesn't work on any setting, chances are the blower motor resister is okay and it's a relay problem. When the resister goes bad, it will normally work on high. Check the relay in the power distribution box.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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CCMAMA
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thank u I'll try that
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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MCAUTODOC
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VIN #2C4GP44R64R507071

Need to know if this system has a orifice tube or an expansion valve & where either is located.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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BMRFIXIT
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expansion valve YOU HAVE AN EXPANSION VALVE The front "H" valve-type thermal expansion valve (TXV) is located at the dash panel between the liquid and suction lines, and the evaporator coil. The assembly consists of an H-valve body and a thermal sensor. High-pressure, low temperature liquid refrigerant from the liquid line passes through the expansion valve orifice, converting it into a low-pressure, low-temperature mixture of liquid and gas before it enters the evaporator coil. The expansion valve is a factory calibrated unit and cannot be adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the expansion valve must be replaced. TO REMOVE Recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system. ( Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the air cleaner housing from the right side of the engine compartment. Disconnect the drain tube from the wiper module drain on the right side of the engine compartment. Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire harness connector for the A/C pressure transducer from the transducer on the front liquid line rear section Remove the screw that secures the front liquid line rear section fitting to the top of the filter-drier. Disconnect the liquid line fitting from the filter-drier outlet port. Remove the seal from the liquid line fitting and discard. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened liquid line fitting and the filter-drier outlet port. Remove the nut that secures the suction line and liquid line fittings to the stud on the expansion valve. Disconnect the suction line and liquid line fittings from the expansion valve and move the lines out of the way. Remove the seals from the suction line and liquid line fittings and discard. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened suction line and liquid line fittings and both expansion valve ports. Remove the two screws that secure the expansion valve to the evaporator tube tapping plate. Disconnect the HVAC wire harness connector for the evaporator temperature sensor from the sensor on the top of the expansion valve. Remove the expansion valve from the evaporator inlet and outlet tube fittings. Remove the seals from the evaporator inlet and outlet tube fittings and discard. Install plugs in, or tape over the opened evaporator inlet and outlet tube fittings and both expansion valve ports.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_479.jpg

Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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MCAUTODOC
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Thanks a lot for the info & quick response!
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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HM3(FMF)GUERRA
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2003 town and country a/c compressor dose not engage
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Check to see if there is power to the compressor. If there is, make sure the freon level is within spec. Also, check to see if the cycle switch is good,
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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HM3(FMF)GUERRA
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the a/c compressor does not engage
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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ERNEST CLARK
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First check relay/fuse. If good, then you'll need to check the level of R134a in the system. If level gets low, the compressor won't engage. If level is low, you can recharge with a can that contains conditioners/dyes. It will not fix the leak though. But it will tell you if the compressor wasn't engaging because level was low or if there's another problem. And the dye will help you locate the leak.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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HM3(FMF)GUERRA
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Thank you i will do that and let you know.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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TEXASECHO
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Okay, I have charged the system, compressor comes on. But the air does not match the settings. Coldest setting is 68. This has front and rear AC controls. What am I missing?
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:48 PM (Merged)
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STRAILER
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Do both front and rear act the same or is one cold and the other not so much?

Please me know, Ken
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:49 PM (Merged)
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PDKNIGHT
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Air Conditioning problem
2003 Chrysler Town and Country 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

my air in my 2003 town and country will not shut off, if i turn the power off it blows harder.
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:49 PM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi:

It sounds like the blower switch is bad. Have you had anyone look at it for you? Based on what you are saying, it sounds like there is a short in the switch itself.

Joe
Sep 11, 2020 at 3:49 PM (Merged)