Engine has a lack of power?

This is common when the catalytic converter is going bad but to be sure lets run down these guides to see what's going on.


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run down these guides and report back.

A new cat helped my car but I had to have the muffler replaced to because some of the catalytic material clogged it up.

2003 ford windstar idles rough, loss of power uphill, flashing check engine light, recently changed fuel filter (gas was clean), new plugs (original code problem), wires look like new (asked local parts store, coil looked good too) still having problems

its 180,000 miles not 180 sorry

Check engine light on

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Have the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on-This is your starting point of diagnosis,finding out what's going on.

Early in the morning It will start it up and take off with out a problem, But as it starts to warm up it starts to "misfire?" then once fully warm, it bogs out on fast acceleration. If I baby the pedal, it will eventually get moving, but I will have to take the overdrive off so the low speed and high gears will not get the shakes.
I have changed the MAP sensor, fuel filter,checked volt for all air intake sensors. I am thinking coil pack either getting wet or expanding when "warm?" I do not know stretching here.
I read about intake vacuum leak but I do not know about only when hot?
It is my work van and cannot afford to park it to long. Help!

Hello,

It sounds like you have a problem with the engine coolant temperature sensor which when off a little will cause this problem and not trigger a check engine light. Here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when doing the job:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Here is the location for your car (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Engine Performance problem
2002 Ford Windstar Automatic 52,000 miles

My 2002 Ford Windstar van runs fine when it's warmed up. However, when I start it up cold, it runs just fine for a minute or so at around 1,000 RPM, but it then drops to around 500 RPM and the engines sputters and shakes and just about cuts off. While it does this, I notice that the battery light on the display flashes a few times. After it sputters for maybe 5 to 10 seconds, the RPM goes back up to around 1,000 and the engine runs fine again. It may do this again slightly a couple of minutes later, but not as bad. After the engine is warm and I get going, there seems to be no more problems while driving or idling. What could be the problem, maybe the alternator going bad? Thanks for your help!

I don't think the alternator has anything to do with the problem. Has the check engine light ever come on? As far as the light flickering, it is a result of the RPM's droping so low. At that point, the alt isn't producing enough current and it causes the light to come on.

Let me know about the check engine light. To me it sounds like a sensor.

Joe

[quote:3d2f872dff="Jacobandnickolas"]I don't think the alternator has anything to do with the problem. Has the check engine light ever come on? As far as the light flickering, it is a result of the RPM's droping so low. At that point, the alt isn't producing enough current and it causes the light to come on.

Let me know about the check engine light. To me it sounds like a sensor.

Joe[/quote:3d2f872dff]

Joe, thanks for your response. The check engine light has NOT come on at any time, just the battery symbol flickering when the RPM's drop to around 500. Once the van eventually warms up, there doesn't seem to be a problem. Obviously something is wrong though, because it's not normal for the engine to sputter and almost cut off a minute or two after startup.

I should also let you know that if I decide to go ahead and drive immediately after startup, without letting the engine warm up for a few minutes, and if I come to an extended stop(more than 30 seconds) at a red light before the engine has had a chance to warm up completely, it'll do the same thing and sputter and almost cut off. As usual though, once the engine has warmed up and the temp gauge is at it's normal halfway point, the problem doesn't occur again.

Are you referring to the Fuel O2 sensor?

There are many sensors that can cause this type of problem. However, usually they will trigger the check engine light to come on.

When was the last time the engine was tuned up? Also, have you had the fuel pump pressure tested when it's cold?

Joe

[quote:f4ff6cb4b0="Jacobandnickolas"]There are many sensors that can cause this type of problem. However, usually they will trigger the check engine light to come on.

When was the last time the engine was tuned up? Also, have you had the fuel pump pressure tested when it's cold?

Joe[/quote:f4ff6cb4b0]

I really don't know the last time the engine was tuned up. This van belonged to my mother and I recently took it off her hands. Ultimately that's probably what it needs, a tune up, especially since the check engine light hasn't come on indicating a serious problem.

I guess I'll just take it in for a tune up and have them check the fuel pump pressure. Thanks for your help.

when it is cold acceleration is normal. after it warms up to normal operating temperature it is very sluggish taking off from a stop. after I finally get it up to speed it seems to run okay. have just put in the best set of plugs I can buy. did not help.

scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it. you may have low fuel pressure causing this or a large vacuum leak that the computer cannot recover from. See link.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please get back to us

I first had a mis fire code on cylinder 3, so I changed the plugs and wires, I then had a P01071 code, then both P01071 & P01074, I changed the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump pressure it is 36 PSI. Car ran great for one day, then code P0301 popped up. I replaced the new plug in cylinder 1 and swapped a couple of wires; it still lacks power and is running rough. When I take off it runs rough, then smooths out, but still lacks power

the codes are lean bank1 , lean bank2. Look for any vacuum leaks at theintake area (pcv line) or cracks in the intake boot between the Mass Airflow Meter and the engine, if ok, you may need a new MAF, they can go bad and cause problems like you describe, but dont always set acode

Thank you, I will try your suggestions and get back to you.

Well, as suggested, I checked the vacuum and looked at the lines and intake boot; everything is fin, the vacuum was within the allowances and maintain after the engine was shut off. I did replace the MAF and installed a new coil. My mileage has come back to about 20 MPG on the open road, but it is still somewhat sluggish, the light has come back on and it seems to continue to skip some. Periodically the check engine light will flash while it is running rough, but then it will smooth out and the light will stop flashing. To summarize, to date, I have: replaced the plugs, wires, coil, MAF and fuel filter; checked the fuel pump pressure and vacuum, which have shown to be within manual spec's; checked hoses and intake boot which are okay.

Anymore thoughts?

my 98 ford windstar is losing power after driving it a short while. it will backfire or you hear a sputtering sound here and there. we just changed all the wires and plugs last night and still doing it. the engine seems to be running fine just losing power and will **** lightly here and there. i can let it sit for 5 mins. and it will drive good for a min. then will start doing it again.

have you done a diagnostic scan? not all fault codes will set a MIL, do this and report what you find.

mark (mhpautos)

we did last night. my buddy who helped me said it was an 02 sensor or whatever he meant. he thinks it could be an exaust problem now. the plugs were really trashed and the wires worse. we put new ones on. it just keeps losing power after u drive it for a little while then its like it barley wants to go uphill no matter how much gas youy try to give it.

hello, I just had the serpentine belt in my van replaced and all of a sudden i was on the highway and my van would no longer accelerate, instead the speed started decreasing. The car started to shake violently so i pulled off the road and waited about an hour and tried to start the car again all it did was shake violently when placed in reverse it struggled to move but did slightly and when placed in drive it just shook then stalled when you put your foot on the gas. Do you know what this could be from. Also my car has been loosing water out of the thing that you put water in although it never runs hot as long as we fill it every few weeks. Thank you so much have a great day.

The serpentine belt installation may not be a factor in your situation. Perhaps just a coincidence. Be sure the engine didn't overheat: Windstars are very sensitive to overheating and blowing head gaskets. See if your oil looks like chocolate milk, evidence of blown engine. Also, constantly adding water to radiator to compensate for loss is a bad idea. Eventually, the glycol antifreeze becomes so dilute, it cannot perform it's protective functions and the coolant water becomes very corrosive to any metals, including the radiator and engine internals.
Pls reply with more details regarding your symptom and/or things you have found with the engine.

The head gasket failed between 1&2 cyl. I had both heads shaved and I installed them. The engine runs poorly but does not seem to be missing. It acts like the timing is retarded, in drive ( front wheels off the ground) it will upshift normally. but when a load (brakes) is applied 1500-2000 rpm is all that is possible. When loaded as described an occasional popping (backfire?) can be heard through the air intake. No check Engine lite, nor any OBD II codes show. Any ideas would be welcome.
Thanks Dick E.

I hate to say it, but I would check engine compression. The popping makes me believe either there is a vacuum leak, plugged catylatic converter, or an intake valve is weak.

Here is the how to for checking compression:

https://www.2carpros.com/dia/how_to_check_compression.htm

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Hi, You were very close, turned out to be a plugged muffler! Thanks Dick E.

I'm glad you got it fixed. Heck, I'm glad I was close and not right. THe muffler is cheaper. LOL

Take care and let us know if you have questions in the future. Thank you for using 2carpros.com.

Joe