CV AXLE front

for both it will take around 2.5 - 3 labor hours and it will need an alignment done afterwards so best to have shop repair it.

This guide will walk you through the repair.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Please run down this guide and report back.

I removed the passenger side CV axle on my van. I replaced the boot and went to reinstall but it will not back in. I have checked the snap ring, tried greasing it slightly, made sure my splines were lined up, and tried tapping. I even filed the spline ends a little just in case they were damaged somehow. I can feel the end the axle hit the ring inside the engine it should sit into but it will not go passed that point. I also checked for debris in the insert to make sure it was clean. I cannot think of any other reason it will not go in.

Good evening.

Do you mean the part that goes into the trans-axle or the out part on the shaft at the hub?

Roy

I am referring to the part that goes into the trans-axle.

I bet you spread the clip if you removed it. that clip will not seat if it expands. You must "bang" the axle inward to get it to seat correctly. Try compressing the clip and try again or turn the axle over. give it a good wack with a rubber mallet.

I actually have the clip off at the moment. I did that too ensure that was not the issue. I could remove that end, try to reinstall it on the van, and then try to put the shaft back together in the van but I do not think could get the boot clips tight enough in that small space. I appreciate the input and would love any other ideas you might have. Is there a way to tell if the something has shifted inside the trans-axle? This is a new one for me. I have attached a picture of what I am working with for reference.

Good picture. looks good, nothing wrong there.

compress that clip with a pair of pliers. install it by sliding over the axle shaft to the groove. when you expand it it will not compress when you install.

Put some grease on it and try installing it again.

Roy

Dear Sr I like to know how to replace the front axles,
I drop the hold drive train to replace the engine and transmition.
I`m 75 year old retire European car mechanic .

Thanks.

AXLE SHAFT (WINDSTAR) Removal (Axle Shaft Assembly) Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel assembly. Remove axle nut and washer. Discard nut. Remove anti-lock sensor retaining bolt, and position aside. Remove lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut, and discard. Separate ball joint from steering knuckle. If necessary, disconnect stabilizer bar at control arm. Install Hub Remover/Installer (T81P-1104-C) assembly, and push CV joint out of hub assembly. See Fig. 2 . Using pry bar, separate inner joint from transmission. Remove axle shaft from vehicle. Fig. 2: Separating CV Joint & Knuckle Assembly Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.

Installation Replace circlip on transaxle end of axle shaft. Insert axle shaft into transmission. Ensure circlip is fully engaged in transaxle. If difficulty is encountered engaging axle shaft into transmission, tap on outer CV joint with plastic or rubber mallet. Feed outer CV joint stub shaft into hub as far as possible. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure using NEW axle nut and NEW lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut. Tighten all nuts and bolts to specification.

Could you please let me know how to replace the CV Joint in a 1998 Windstar GL with 3.8 Litre Motor. Please also send diagram if possible.

I just replaced the right CV Joint on my 1998 windstar yesterday. I used a Chilton's repair manual get directions and used the Auto Zone tool rental program to get all of the special tools for the job. It took about 2 1/2 hours to complete the job.

I would encourage you to pick up one of the books. I can provide the steps if you like, but the book provides a lot more information than I could.

Hope this helps and have fun!

[quote:85561c80bf="Myrt"]Could you please let me know how to replace the CV Joint in a 1998 Windstar GL with 3.8 Litre Motor. Please also send diagram if possible.[/quote:85561c80bf]

there is a rumbling bearing noise i assume coming from the right front. how would you know if it is the cv joint or front wheel bearing

A couple of things may help narrow it down. Often a bad CV joint will sound worse in tight turns, especially if you accelerate while the wheel is turned. A wheel bearing noise might increase with speed of the car. With that corner of the car jacked up you might be able to see/feel if the CV joint is sloppy. If the rubber boot is torn/ripped/missing from the CV joint then dirt and junk can get in and corrode it much faster and cause it to wear out.
Hope this helps

Grinding metal noise from front end when turning to the left. Disappeared after driving 2 to 3 miles.
Found ABS "gear" on right front drive axle loose and able to rotate.
I also have noises when turning at slower speeds that sound like squeaking or rubber on metal?
When driving on smoother roads the front seems to rattle, but can find nothing loose?
Do not have the "normal" noises described as a bad CV joint
How can I tell if the CV joints are bad?

First thing you'll notice is torn rubber boots and grease all over the place! If the anti-lock ring came loose it's probably no good...sa for the rattle, someone may have done the front pads and not used anti-rattle clips! When you get the rattle apply light pressure to the brakes...see if the noise dissappears!