95 Tarus 3.0L Bad Smell from vents, Leaking water, Picture

That is the engine air intake, Don't put it in there!!!!! You might need to remove the blower motor to get into it:

You also need to locate the leak you have. Take what time and look with good lighting and mirrors while the engine is running if need be to find the leak.

your problem is a bad heater core. replacing it i belive on your year.

AND DO NOT PUT IT IN THE AIR INTAKE

oh i see service writer just beat me to saying that is not the heater system intake.

I heard ya typing! :wink:

As a clarification, the water is or is not dripping inside the car?

Thanks for the quick replies.

There is no water dripping inside of the car, although I have noticed that the vents for the windshield will get foggy on the inside sometimes after it has been sitting a bit after driving.

I also noticed today that water was dripping out on the ground underneath the engine air intake area that Service Writer has pointed out, only after a very short drive.

I'm taking it to a mechanic today so well see how that will pan out. Hopefully I will still have my arms and legs after its fixed.

Ill update this thread later and maybe you guys can weigh in on the diagnosis. Thanks!

Actually I pointed out the heater core area...What Blackop said was the source....And I'll second at this point :mrgreen:

lots of people describe the coolant as a musty smell :D so that made me think that and the loss of coolant. the fog on the windsheild is a dead giveaway

Heard back from the mechanic and the heater core is the source of the smells, blackop555 called it. Mechanic said it's labor intense to replace and they are asking $850 to do so or $100 to bypass it. I'm going with a bypass.

They suggested some other work be done:

Drive belt - 160
Brakes (Front rotors and pads) - 270

Sound like fair prices?

Prices don't sound too bad, if they are using quality parts.

Not sure where you live, but you do know you will not have heat with the core bypasssed.

What I would do with the heater core leak is I would try one of the name-brand radiator sealers first to see if it works, unless the core is split pretty good it may work for a while..as far as a drivebelt for 160, I've been buying my belts from advance or autozone, costs like 20-25 dollars, warranty isn't very long, however the belts have been lasting a good long time,, I used to buy strictly Motorcraft belts, I can get 2 of the belts for that price, last just as long..Some Taurus belts can be changed with just a 1/2 drive ratchet end on the idler pulley arm, others require a special tool which can be purchased also at the autoparts store, not too much dollars. Probably do it yourself for 50 bucks the first go-round which would include the tool if you need it.. as far as front pads and rotors, if your're handy you can do that too.. once again parts I use from Autozone, their housebrand rotor probably around 20-25 apiece, pads around 16 a set, tool to compress piston back into caliper 10 bucks or so, special socket end to unbolt caliper another 10 or so, save yourself 170 if you can do it yourself, that's at least a tankful of gas at today's prices, lol.. shoot me a message if you need any help, may take a day or two to respond

Thanks for the answers. I live in the Southwest so the heater shouldn't be much of a problem, course' we'll have to see how I feel in the coming months.

As I have already proven, I am quite ignorant in mechanics. That compiled with a lack of tools and I'd be lucky to change a tire. Maybe I can head to the library and find some basic stuff like where things are located and what to look for when things go south.

I'll make a donation when I can get to the bank. Thank you for the info.

Edit:
I tried to give some feedback to you guys but I only seem to have .3 points to give (.1 per post?) even though the "Tips for successfully getting help!" page says I am supposed to have 5. Maybe I am just missing something trivial.

Go to the library?

You have found a source, just ask!

Oh alright. That makes it easy. Here's a slurry of related questions.

Why is the heater core the cause of the stink? Would it have mattered if I had used the heat once in a while as opposed to not at all?

If it is quite difficult to get to(inside the dash I'm told), how do they know it's the problem in the first place?

Is the drivebelt/serpentine belt the only one in the engine? Is it just made of rubber?

Judging from your quick post you must be an early riser!

The smell of coolant is less than pleasant...to me anyways, some say it's sweet. It is further possible that there may be mold on the condenser that may be adding to your odor. The antifreeze goes into the heater core and back via 2 hoses. They probably pressure tested the system to force the leak. IF it is leaking at the heater core area, it's a pretty good bet that that is the source. Like blacktop said, the film on the windshield is a very typical sign. The coolant leaves a greasy residue film. Running the heat would not really made a difference, the leak has to be fixed. With all due repect to tauruswheel, I am strongly opposed to any sealant additive. It typically reacts to oxygen to act as a cataylst. The problem is if air enters the system it can react internally and plug up where ever it is at and flowing through.

On your engine, that is the only belt, and it is more than rubber. There are reinforecments that go around it in length. Not sure if it is a string of a sort or what not. Unless the belts has cracks going longitudinal or chunks are starting to come off of it, you are probably fine. Belts are oversold and rarly break from their own accord. MOre often they break because something seized.

I am an early riser, typically 5:00am, or when the dogs tell me to get up.