It needed a hub bearing, inner cv and ball joint on passenger side.

2001 FORD TAURUS

120,000 MILES • 6 CYL • 2WD • AUTOMATIC

TED LEWIS

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What a mess I got into. The patient is a 2001 Ford Taurus SES, 3.0L OHV, Ax4s Trans. It needed a hub bearing, inner cv and ball loint on passenger side. After some false starts on parts I got it taken down and was all set to reassemble. Probably not a long process at that point. Then I got really stupid. I had in my possession a replacement seal for the output shaft on the trans where the splines from the inner CV Joint go into the transmission. The old one seemed fine and dry but I thought it wasn't a bad idea to replace it. I had not gotten my on line access yet so I referenced the local Haynes Manual I have. Bad mistake. It described a very easy process to remove the old seal. Can't be done. At this point the old seal is wrecked from numerous removal attempts. Can't remove it. It appears I have to get a set of Ford Rotunda Tools to remove and reinstall the seal. This is expensive. If all it does is wipe out my savings on the work I'll be lucky. All this is true, unless, unless the old seal can be pulled somehow with more common tools. To add to the hilarity the manual and the online svc indicates a two piece seal As far as I can see it is a one piece sort of like a drum brake inner seal gone wild. The Haynes manual picture is not the same as the OEM seal. [img:7f81a68461]http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/171040_DSCF0851_1.jpg[/img:7f81a68461]

So, do I buy all those tools or is there an easier answer. Can I keep hacking at the old one without damaging the trans. case? The picture is of a new OEM seal from the dealer.

Mar 21, 2008 at 1:06 PM

MERLIN2021

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17,250 POSTS

You'll need the tool,as far as I can see, maybe a rental...Metal piece comes out first, then follow these steps...

Mar 21, 2008 at 2:51 PM

MASTERTECHTIM

CERTIFIED EXPERT
4,750 POSTS

another trick that i use is to get a 10 dollar dent puller from parts store. you put a self tapping screw in the end of it then screw it into the seal, then lightly slide hammer it out, i do this all the time.

Mar 21, 2008 at 6:49 PM

MASTERTECHTIM

CERTIFIED EXPERT
4,750 POSTS

i have not done that exact seal that way. you may very well need that tool. another suggestion is to go to the transmission shop near you and ask them their opinion. maybe offer then a few bucks and leave them a deposit on the tool and see if they will loan it to you. its worth a shot. i know if someone came to my shop and were in a jam, id consider loaning them the tool if they offered to leave a deposit for it and give me a few bucks to borrow it.

Mar 22, 2008 at 10:52 AM

MERLIN2021

CERTIFIED EXPERT
17,250 POSTS

You might try the slide hammer attachment for rear axle bearings, it should grab two sides of the seal anyway...

Mar 22, 2008 at 12:02 PM

ERECTILE DYSFUNCTIONAL

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1 POST

Removing the seal doesn't need the factory (Rotunda) puller. Just use a KD seal remover or else a long pry bar and or long needle nose pliers. Force the existing unit from the output shaft hole. This takes a little bit of doing and you first may need to dislodge the metal shield with the holes around the circumference. Some times you get the top metal shield off and the rubber inner seal with the garter off but not the remaining part of the seal and it will look reall snarley. Continue to force the remaining part of the metal backing of the old seal out of the hole until you have the smooth round surface of the transaxale case present. You should have tranny fluid leaking so use a pan to catch it.

Then you have to install the new seal. You can buy a seal installer from Lisle for anywhere from $65 to $90 or you can simply get a large socket wrench 1 1/4 or larger to fit over the new fluid seal. Attach a long socket extension to the socket and get a hammer. Position the seal in the whole put the socket with extension over and hit the extension with the hammer until the seal is in place. You'll know when it is installed properly when you don't have any more fluid leaking from the lower part of the seal.

May 4, 2008 at 11:46 PM

TED LEWIS

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Hey E.D. and all others.

Sorry for the delay in getting back.

The seal is out and the car is back on its feet. Other work still to be done. I'll post any of that as I run into trouble.

Actually got really mad at the thing. Mad enough to get the Ford tools. I know, they are too expensive. On the other hand even with that I still probably saved some $$ doing it mayself. The Ford tool ripped the outer part of the seal off in about 3 seconds. The innerr part was a bit damaged (by me) and the tool had some trouble with it. That I managed to start with the Rotunda thing and then stuck a slide hammer on it. Ok, so that part took about 30 seconds. Nice when you have everything you need:)

The next time I feel uncomfortable over a decision to do something I will step back and think a little longer. Had I done that to start with none of this would have happened. In the end, not much harm done and I am just a bit smarter now.

Again, thanks.

Tedd

May 6, 2008 at 9:13 PM

â™¥BROOKEâ™¥

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7 POSTS

I had this same kinda problem but now I am all set, those pics that you post up really help!!!! :)

May 19, 2008 at 3:57 PM

TED LEWIS

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3 POSTS

[quote:d1b241058b="â™¥Brookeâ™¥"]I had this same kinda problem but now I am all set, those pics that you post up really help!!!! :)[/quote:d1b241058b]

Hey Brooke, if you are speaking of my pictures, glad to help.

Just curious though. Were you able to get the thing out without the Ford tools? As you can see in the thread a lot of folks suggest it can be done without the Rotunda Tools. My problem of finishing it that way was pure fear of damaging the trans housing. Somehow I just didn't get all excited by the idea of pulling the trans out of the beasty. :)

Ted

May 19, 2008 at 5:47 PM