No spark?

Hello,

The clue is when you get one spark and then nothing. This is telling us the ECM is spending its capacitor energy and not getting recharge. This is due to a power issue like a relay or fuse. Here is the engine wiring diagrams so you can test the fuse power feed and PCM relay.

Here are some guides and diagrams (Below)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers

The injectors pulse, I've also checked the EEC relay along with the EEC diode and they both check fine, just to humor myself I swap both with the A/C relay and diode. Still no spark during the crank cycle, only time I'm getting spark is when I'm letting the key go back to the run position, then it is only a single plug at random (I take it from the exciter ring making another or partial rotation). I've also checked the AC voltage for the CKP at the PCM during the crank and it is within specs. The3n I changed out the PCM relay and bam! the car started, Nice work 2Carpros you really know your stuff.

Electrical problem
1997 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Good Afternoon Gentlamen: I just bought 1997 Taurus 3.0 L. the car was running rough so replaced spark plugs and wires. The car still running rough; I check the compression on all cylinders I have good compression. But I don’t have fire from #3 and 4. I have replaced PCM because someone told me that would take care of the problem. But I still have the same problem; Can someone HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would be more inclined to be looking at a faulty coil pack or faulty leads.

mark (mhpautos)

The motor just died after pulling out of my garage.I do not get any spark. I have coil checks out ok. How can I check the CKPS? or the PCM?

check to see if you have +12v to one side of the coil with the vehicle key on. then when cranking check for a -12v pulsing on the opposite side of th ecoil.

do you have a tachometer reading when cranking the engine?

get back to me with what you find.

Thanks for the response. I did check -12vdc and found it was not pulsing so I started to trace this back to the crankshaft trigger sensor. I found somebody had broken the latch that held the connection together. After reseating the connector, I then tie wrapped it together, I now have spark and it runs.

glad to hear you got it fixed! i would suggest getting a new connector

1995 ford taurus lx 3.8liter engine. Intermitent spark
problem. Replaced ignition module & ignition coil, with no success. I suspect stator. Any comments?

Most offen, after replacing those parts and the problem still exists, it's the distributor, if no distributor, the cam sensor.

Check both crank and cam for signal when you have no spark, test wires to crank sensor for grounding problems, and wiring harness in back of the motor.(firewall side).

Electrical problem
1994 Ford Taurus Front Wheel Drive Automatic 160K miles

Re: 6 cyl 3.8 ltr engine. New plugs. I'm not getting a spark. I used an induction type timing light and clipped on to the coil wire and then to a plug wire and had someone turn the engine over as I pulled the trigger on the light and it didn't go on at either place. The coil checked out OK with the ohmeter test. What would be the next simplest thing to check?

With key on use a test light and check for power at the coil if so
Suspect and replace spark control module

I turned the key on and tested the coil by putting a test light lead on the coil terminal and grounding the other. The light did not go on, so I guess there is no current going into the coil. I want to check the spark control module, as you refer to it, but I don't see anythng called out with that name. Could it be know by another name?

check fuses and ignition switch and wiring

Ignition Control Module

I went back and redid my tests. I disconnected the wire coming up to the coil. That particular connector has two terminals (female) and of course, the coil has the male connectors. I took a DC test light and put a probe into one of the terminals on the female connector and turned the key on, and proceded to ground the other end of the DC test light and the light went on. I turned the key off and the light went out. I'm assuming that there is the proper current coming up to the coil via that connector. I proceded to reconnect the connector to the coil hooked up the DC test light again connected one end of the light to the terminal on the coil and turned the key on grounded the other end of the light and it did not go on. Should I assume from this that the coil is not good? PS thanks for the diagram of the distributor, but my car does not have that type of distributor. Mine is described as a Universal distributor that has a diescast housing with a Hall effect distributor stator.

IGNITION COIL RESISTANCE Application Primary (Ohms) .8-1.68 Secondary (Ohms) 700-11,500 Check for PIP at the coil Use the test light ground one end of the coil and use the other to check wire at the coil Coil connected back prop the ground wire and turnkey on light should come on Crank engine light should blink

COIL TESTING: Prior to connecting the meter probes to the coil. I "zeroed out" the meter and confirmed the function of the meter by touching the black probe to the red probe and the needle went to zero. Next I checked the coil primary as follows; I connected the black meter wire to the (+) terminal of the coil and touched the other terminal (-) of the coil with the red probe of the meter and the needle went directly to zero (0) as if no resistance at all. Next I checked the coil secondary as follows; I connected the black meter wire to the (-) terminal of the coil and touched the post of the coil with the red probe of the meter and got a reading of 6 on the RX1000 ohm scale. According to the required readings, it looks like I got a complete coil failue. Do you aqree?

your reading indicate a bad coil
replace coil and check

I have a 92 taurus that runs fine for 10-15 minutes and then dies it wont start for about and hour or so. I replaced the Coil, and ICM and still same problem. When it dies it loses the spark coming from the coil, the car never has been overheated, but i can let the car sit there and idle all day long and it wont quit. I am frustrated with this car please help. No check engine lights have ever came on, only light that comes on is the oil light when idle, i raise the rpms and it gos out, but the oil level is where is supposed to be.

[quote:58e9287fa5="BaileyJoshua"]Electrical problem
1992 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 71000 miles

I have a 92 taurus that runs fine for 10-15 minutes and then dies it wont start for about and hour or so. I replaced the Coil, and ICM and still same problem. When it dies it loses the spark coming from the coil, the car never has been overheated, but i can let the car sit there and idle all day long and it wont quit. I am frustrated with this car please help. No check engine lights have ever came on, only light that comes on is the oil light when idle, i raise the rpms and it gos out, but the oil level is where is supposed to be.[/quote:58e9287fa5]

Since you are not getting spark when the car dies, it indicates a heat problem. If you have a 3.0 engine, the ignition module on the distributor is the prime suspect. You could also have problems with the sensor in the distributor or the coil.

its the 3.8 litre engine, i have replaced the ignition coil and the ICM for this car it is mounted under the cowl on the firewall