Catalytic Converter Replacement

your car doesn't want to go into first gear yet it goes 20mph ? how is it going 20mph but its sitting there and idling. Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/catalytic-converter-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

What is the average estimated cost to replace the catalytic converter for a 1996 Ford Taurus?

If it is a direct fit part, est. around 250.00 for the part and about an hour labor. They make a universal converter that is usually under 100.00. However, then you have to pay more in labor for them to make it work.

Let me know if you have other quesitons.
Joe

I bought a '96 Ford Taurus G two years ago and it has ran like a cloud ever since. However, for about the past four or five months, the check engine light has been on steadily and never goes out. I had the light checked and it came back that the cat. converter wasn't working properly.
My Dad works at an auto parts place where he can get parts 50% off or so. The retail for a '96 Ford Taurus Cat. Converter was $600, but he can get it through his job for the car for $300. If I bought the converter for $300 and just needed it put on the car, how much am I looking at?
I'd prefer not to allow a repair shop to use their own parts because that'll jack the price of the bill way up. Thanks.

bro i wouldnt pay that much for a cat.u can get one at kragen or aautozone for bout 80 bucks and whatever the muffler shop cost to install.go here>>> kragen.com look at the prices

Last year, my service engine light came on in my 1996 Ford Taurus G sedan, and when I had the light checked, it came back with a catalytic converter issue. I've done my share of internet researching on cheapest prices and different options, but am not sure what to get. There seems to be about 20 different converters I can get, ranging from a complete direct fit in the high $300's, to just the converter(without any piping) for $65 that may require welding. An example of the different range options are here: http://www.convertergeek.com/epcstartreverse.epc?cookieID=2EE07BCP52EE07DTF4&drillid=7&engineid=V63.0V6%20-GASFIU@@V6+-+3.0L+-+CC%3AV6+-+-+GAS+-+Fuel+Injected+-+VIN%3AU+-+Non-Turbo&clientid=convertergeek
That's a huge price difference. How do I know which one to get? Also, what could I expect to pay for labor charges to have the work done? From what I read so far, the direct fit ones can be installed fast, just a matter of bolting it on.

its hard to say what it will cost to have done due to the cheaper ones requring more materials and time to put on will be just about the same price as the direct fit bolt on kind!


i would personally go with a y pipe bassani with a cat on it, bolts directly to the manifolds and runs to the piping, welds or bolts right on, saves time and is usually cheaper then a direct fit cat.

I have a 1996 Ford Taurus that has the catalytic converter low efficiency on bank 01 error. I know the Taurus has 4 catalytic converters. Can only the 2 converters serving bank 1 be replaced or will all of them have to be?

Also, are there any other causes to this OBD error. Since it measures the difference between the two O2 sensors, is it worth a try to replace these sensors or at least swap the sensors between the banks to see if the error moves with it?

If you have a P0420 code, read the live sensor data from the upstream and downstream O2's, the upstream should be constantly switch and the down stream should remain fairly flat. A dead sensor can cause this code, but the converter can also, You should change the sensors anyway at this point, or if you have 100,000 or more miles! Yes you can change seperate cats!

It is extremely rare for this code to be anything but a bad converter. In order to set the code both sensors have to mirror each other and that doesn't happen by accident. I have seen it happen when there is an exhaust leak just ahead of the upstream sensor but I only saw that once.

Since this is a "Y" pipe setup, it's pretty impossible to weld in an aftermarket converter. the whole pipe has to be changed but there are aftermarket companies that sell them cheaper than the dealer.

My Dad's 1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L G, failed inspection for emissions. The results page showed codes of P0420 and 0430 which are Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold in Banks 1 and Banks 2. One mechanic told me that it means the catalytic converter needs to be replaced, while another mechanic said it means to just replace all four of the O2 sensors that the car has.
For starters, those two repairs are a major difference when it comes to price, the 02 sensors would be a lot less expensive of a repair, yet would that solve the problem to get his car to pass the state emissions inspection?
Second, if it's the converter, which one should I go with? I was on various car parts sites, and there's 3 different types for my Dad's car model(Taurus G), ranging from $41 all the way up to $350+. We need to get this resolved asap as he's due to take it back for reinspection very soon. The 45 day grace period is close to its end. Thanks for any help.

Ok here is how the test is done. This test is done at cruise mode. The counting of the front and rear Heated O2 Sensor switches are counted during a drive cycle. At that time the ratio of total rear switches to front switches is calculated. If the switch ratio is greater then the emission threshold the cat has failed and the light is turned on. The light is turned on after 6 consecutive drive cycles. Now none of this is counted at idle.
I would clean the mass air flow meter with mass air flow meter cleaner. Then have the code cleared and see if it comes back on. To clear the codes if you do not have a scanner I would call around and find a parts store that does free scans.
If the code comes back then I would call exhaust shops and see if any do an exhaust flow test to make sure the cat is pluged before replacing it. Thanks and Merry Christmas.

1996 Ford Taurus 6 cyl Automatic 119000 miles

My Dad's car failed for inspection due to P codes 0420 and 0430 which came back to be a bad cat. Also, the check engine light has been on steady since then. I've searched online and there seems to be endless types of convertors to buy for the car. We're looking for the most inexpensive route, and I have a link if you goes wouldn't mind going to it and helping me pick one. http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.php?N=10340+1616+4294965378+11921+9189&Ns=price2|0&Npp=15

I'm leaning towards the one for $83, would that fit my car? It says that it's solely for the "G" model. The car is a 1996 Ford Taurus G, 4 door, automatic, 3.0 V6. Thanks for any and all help.

In your case I would buy the direct -fit catalytic converter
as its easier to remove and replace
verse the universal -fit
as it will need cutting and welding and so on
what you chose is what I would buy
good luck

how can you tell if it is bad?

There are usually two primary things that happen to catalytic converters. They either plug up or break up inside, with aout the same result.

If the catalyst is plugged, engine performance will be poor. More noticeably under heavy load - like going up a steep hill, or a passing situation on the highway. This can be confirmed with a vacuum gauge. At idle, vacuum should read 17 - 24 inches of mercury. Any lower reading indicates a blockage in the exhaust.

If the catalytic material breaks up, it usually is accompanied by rattling from under the car. If the breakage is left unrepaired, the actual catalyst can wedge into the housing and block exhaust flow.

i have a leak in the catalytic converter,
can i weld it up if i find the hole?
also, it's been running a bit rough and there's some smoke from i don't know where...smells a bit rubbery.
thanks for any help

if you have a tig or mig welder yes you can definitely use a patch to weldit up. but that still does not mean the converter is anymore good as the fact of if it wore a hole in it the insides are probably the same. and with the smoke what color of it and of what amounts is it coming out in like a small grey whisp coming out once in a while or black smoke billowing out.

yes i have a mig...will try to patch it up first...then...
the smoke is wispy and not black...

what color smoke is it white and very humid or oily? does the rubbery smell smell more like antifreeze then rubber? if so time to replace head gasket. if it smells like burning rubber it may be a problem with the convertor with the chemicals in it. your belt may be slipping if so that could be causing the rubber smell and the whisps of smoke could be from water in your gas. use some heet put that in the tank and fix her up :D

1993 Ford Taurus V8 70,000 miles

My car is very loud when I start it up, as well as in idle & driving. There is no power at all when I drive it. Could it be the catalytic converter that is damaged? If so, how much does it cost to fix? And is it driveable?

When you say loud do you mean exhaust system loud and or engine loud
or RPM go up and car doesn’t move as with the RPM

if catalytic converter no good the only way to fix it is by removing it and replacing it

I actually took it to the repair shop today and the mechanic said that the pipe was broken off from the catalytic converter completely. I had to have it repaired and it actually didnt cost me as much as I thought. I had the entire exhaust system repaired for less that $400.00. Thanks again for answering my question

So it was the exhaust system
not a bad job
glade you are back on the road driving
(happy driving and drive safe )

thank you for using 2carpros

I took my car to the shop, because all of the sudden it does not want to run right. when I start it it stalls unless I keep foot on the gas and brake to get in gear. when I step on the gas it hesitates like a lot of gas and then no gas even though my foot is sometimes to the floor. took it to the shop and they said it was catalytic converter. I took it off and it does same thing. Changed the fuel filter, and the distributor cap and rotor. Please help!!

i would look at fuel pressure to start. that may be the hesitation and lack of power

as far as the idling, it may be the idle air control motor.

you need another shop. if you took off the cat and it does the same thing, then put it back on and find out the real issue.

Roy

I have a 2004 Ford Taurus, 6 cylinder, 4-door, with a little over 45000 miles.
March of 2006, I had an issue with acceleration. I would push the gas peddle but it did not want to go. It was discovered to be the converter.
On Monday (07-02-07) I took it back. My brother used to be a mechanic and told me he could tell I had an exhaust problem. First I oook it to a muffler shop recommended to me and the said they did a small gasket leak but would have to test the oxygen sensor and to bring it back. They also mentioned the converter. So on Monday, I took it back to a local ford dealer. The put it on diagnostic which showed nothing. The had some service foreman test drive it and said there was a problem. Now they are saying the converter again. A reliable source told me today this is not normal to happen again. There has to be a reason why this keeps happening, maybe its the computer or computer chip off calibration. My question, why can this happen again and what can keep causing this problem so I can make them fix not only the converter again but also the problem that keeps messing it up?
Also, donation was made (5CS39720CX66751oY) to answer my question quick. I have to return to dealer in about 36 hours. :D

Hope I got to you in time. Most Fords have several cats on them, usually 2 in the head pipe and one that both banks run through.Depends on if just one primary went bad first, then the other or if the secondary went bad. sometimes if the primary ones go bad and fall apart they can plug the main cat up, causing another problem later