check engine light stays on

There's something else causing the CEL to come on other than servicing it-Take it to Autozone and get the computer scanned for OBD2 code/s its a free service.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down this guide and report back.

My check engine light stays on. I got the codes read and it said to change the oxygen sensors, so I did. Now it says to change the front oxygen sensor. I've had my computer reset several times and the light will stay off until I turn off and restart the vehicle. I even took the front sensor back and exchanged it for another one, because I thought the first sensor might be a bad one. I just had a tune up, and got a new exhaust system from front to back. Anyone have any suggestions?

I've seen lots of oxygen sensors w/connection problems, I guess because they're so close to dirt & heat. With 1 sensor replaced twice & still same code, it just about has to be some kind of wiring problem. Let me know if you get it fixed, and what you did, I'd like to know.

First of all thank you so much for your donation.Let's start with what code's did you have before you changed the sensor's and what did you change.Also what code's you have now?

[quote:5595e8016b="saturntech9"]First of all thank you so much for your donation.Let's start with what code's did you have before you changed the sensor's and what did you change.Also what code's you have now?[/quote:5595e8016b]

Hey guys.....Thanks so much for your input...I found a small crack at the connection to the ignition coil, and also a blown fuse under the hood that had something to do with the oxygn sensor. I changed these out and got it to pass inspection....

Glad to hear you got you car all figured out and passed inspection thank you for using 2carpros.

My 96 ranger check engine light came on, i brought it to the part store to get it scanned and the codes cme out "bank 1 and bank 2 too lean" but it doesnt seem to affect the performance of the engine. What are some possibilities that it could be.

Most likely the Mass Airflow Meter, as long as fuel pressure is good.Try a fuel filter first if it hasnt been done already, if so the MAF or a vacuum leak in the common intake area like a pcv line or something that is in the main intake plenum

I own a 1996 Ford Ranger 4.0 liter V6, manual transmission that I pull behind my motorhome. At about 75000 miles the Check Engine light came on (and stays on). Local Ford Dealer tried about $300.00 worth of sensors, but after a few days the "check engine" light would come back on. Finally, they told me it would take "extensive diagnostic and repair charges" to repair the defect and suggested I might "drive it like it is". I have driven it for about 60000 miles since that time and the light still is on.

However!!!! I spent a week in Estes Park, Colorado (at an elevation of 6800 feet and above) and after the second day the light went out and stayed out all the time I was there. When I returned home the lamp came back on after only one day. I went to the Ford place and told them about that. They suggested it "might be" a "pressure" sensor or "altitude" sensor, but couldn't be sure. They wanted another $300 or so to find out. I said no.

Can you help??

Thanks,
Ron

It is very possible to be the MAP/MAS sensor
what is the code

Thank you for your reply.

I no longer remember the codes given me by the Ford dealership 60000 miles ago. I tried to get Auto-Zone to read the codes, when I got back from Colorado, but they say my truck has a computer plug that does not match anything they have. Also, I have purchased two different "Code Readers" from different sources and neither of them would match the plug on my truck. I was told that Mazda intentionally put this plug on because Ford wanted to have the only reader that would fit.

I know this isn't a help, but I'm kind of "in a pickle".

There is one other thing that I have noticed the truck doing but I don't know if it's related or not, and I don't remember if it started doing this after the check engine light came on or not. It ONLY does this in the hot summer time (July or August) and after the truck warms up by driving it 8 or 10 miles with the air-conditioning on. When the engine idles down below 1500 RPM I hear a very low pitched "whistling" sound -- more like a "moaning" sound. The slower the engine idles the louder the moan. I raised the hood and it was coming from the air input duct work into the top of the engine. It's almost like a "vibration" because you can lay your hand on the duct work and feel it. Tapping the accelerator pedal will stop it until the engine idles down again. Naturally, during the normal course of driving the engine is usually above 1500 RPM and I never hear it -- only at stop signs or such.

Can that be related?

Thanks,
Ron

hi Ron
1996 should have the OBDII connector

codes for sure will help
you can check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold
check air filter

I've got my father-in-laws Ford Ranger this week while they are on vacation, and the check engine light is (has been) on. My father-in-law says that he took it somewhere and they said it was an "emissions thing"... don't worry about it.

Well, I'm not that way with my vehicles, so I put my CarChip on and ran diags. The code that comes up is: P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected

I took the EGR off and cleaned it up, reset the light/codes and took it for a drive (about 12 miles. A block from getting back the light came on again, same code.

I purchased a new EGR valve tonight, installed it, reset the light, and drove the same "test route"... about 6 blocks from the house it came back on.

I also pulled one of the spark plugs tonight and it looks oiled/sooty.. and overgapped. I figure the truck is running rich with the current problem which would account for the "oiled" look, and I noticed the plug wires are looking pretty worn/cooked. I have new plugs that will work in the truick and will get new wires tomorrow. - I doubt that will fix the problem though...

I'm open to ideas guys and gals...

The truck has the 3.0 liter V6, automatic trans, and 126,000 miles on it.

My in-laws come back Saturday am, and I would like to give the truck back in a little better shape than the left it... They really do a lot for us, so I don't mind spending some time and a few dollars on it.

Thanks.

John

If the 401 code is still present remove the egr valve and clean the bore all the way to the throttle plate, I use a steel coathanger. If U use a cleaner use a very mild one Ford coats their throttle assembies with teflon. After cleaning and reseting the MIL, if it shows the 401 again, replace the EGR possition sensor.

- It was pretty late ;ast night when I finally got around to fixing this last night, so I didn't get it posted that I got the problem fixed.

It was the EGR Position Sensor/DPFE Sensor.

Thanks for the reply though....

sure..

I have a 96 ford ranger auto. 2wd 4 cyl. been a great truck. just started having this problem. My o/d light will come on and off, and my check engine light will come on. did it a week ago, but went out. now it just did it again. any idea what the problem is? Truck seems to still run and drive fine.

Great site :)

Hi:
Part of your post was deleted because it was placed in the wrong area. Can you explain what is happening with the OD light?

my o/d light blinks on and off, and my check engine light will come on. did this a week ago, but went off. just did it again yesterday.

That indicates there is a trouble code is set in the computer regarding the transmission. Have the computer scanned to identify where the problem is coming from.

1996 Ford Ranger 2.3. We replaced the Mass air flow sensor because the pickup seemed to want to run better with the old one unplugged. Now its doing the same thing. Cranks but no start. Check engine light is on. Wondering what other sensor it could be.

We crank and crank, give it some gas, it turns over and starts but will only stay running for 10 seconds, if we try to flutter the gas pedal it usually dies immediately. However when we unplugged the Idle air control valve, it cranks, starts and runs only at an idle.

We seem to have fuel pressure at the rail and we can hear the fuel pump. It has gas

Love this site :-).

Have you checked fuel pressure?

No. But I did poke the shrader valve on the fule rail and gas came squirting out.

best you run a diagionstic scan and get the fuel pressure tested with an appropriate gauge.

Check engine light keeps coming on, code scanner says P0302 #2 misfire. Plugs & wires have been replaced. After clearing the code, the truck will run 200-300 miles without the light. Then just after startup when the engine is still warming up, the check engine light will come on again. Any ideas? Thanks for the help!

Then just after startup when the engine is still warming up, the check engine light will come on again

Is it the same code reappearing? -if so check that cylinder's compresssion and injector.

Misfires can be caused by worn or fouled spark plugs, a weak spark (weak coil, bad spark plug wire), loss of compression, vacuum leaks, anything that causes an unusually lean fuel mixture (lean misfire), an EGR valve that is stuck open, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure, or even bad fuel.

I recently bought a 1996 ford ranger and it failed emissions. The reason was because my check engine light does not work. I was told that the previous owner most likely bypassed the check engine light in order to sell the vehicle. My question is how do i repair this without going to a mechanic?

eveidntly you'll have to put a new bulb in and then get the cod scanned and fix wht's wrong. It may be aminor thing. Then after that is done change your oil and oil and air filter. then drive it at least 10 miles on the eway if possible to get it good and warm. Then take it in for the test, it should pass . You can get your engine scanned at alot of auto parts stores. If it's something like a evap system thing, alot of times it's just because the gas cap was left off or not tightened all the way (3 clicks at least).

The engine misses at idle and low RPM. It recently started missing at higher RPM and highway speeds also. The check engine light is not on. Where should I start looking for the problem?

Another problem is that the ABS light is on so we can't get it inspected.

Hello, Please combine your post since they are on same truck. You will get better and quicker responses when techs don't have to chase your posts around.

When you first login across the top of page you will see some links click on the "View Your Posts" and just reply to your own.

Thanks
.

hi, i have a 96 ford ranger 4cyl. 2.3ltr 5speed with ac, and 220k miles benn very faithful truck, moving from the midwest of vin checks to the pacific northwest and the world of emissions testing, ok, my check engine light has been on for a year now it use to come and go but now i think its on for good,my truck runs fine, the oregon deq failed me because of a computer code p1443 after much research i have found tha that code supposedly means small or no purge flow condition, i have found on other sites that it means something totaly different, im moreless a shadree mechanic and prefer to work on my own vehicles tools, weather, and know how permitting, my haynes manual is of no help in this case, can you get me the right diagnosis of code p1443? and maybe point me in the right direction under my hood your help is greatly appreciated!! thnk you so much
jay

the Code P1443 means:
EVAP Purge Flow Sensor Fault
It could mean that the EVAP Cannister Purge Solenoid is not working, the EVAP System may have a Leak, (gas cap, roll over valve, etc).
You may be better off having a Reputable Shop check the System rather then throwing parts at it

Rangers o/d off light was flashing took it to dealership said problem with OD band requiring overhaul. Check engine light has been on and code P0761 (shift solenoid C) was pulled. Dealership said this was probably just because of the OD band problem. The thing that confuses me is that the only time the transmission bucks is when the O/D off light flashes, otherwise everything runs fine.

What I am wondering is if shift solenoid is the real problem and if this can be replaced without a complete overhaul? Ranger has 103000 miles not even worth enough to get an overhaul.

P0761 code indicate transmission mechanical failure or electrical malfunction
probable cause are :

internal tranny damage
shift solenoid damage
shifter solenoid circuit damage
faulty powertrain control module PCM


and this is why I think they said u need a rebuilt
try to get another opinion take it to a tranny shop let then scan it and check it for you
good luck