fuel pressure

28-45 psi with key on engine running (KOER)

35-45 psi with key on engine off (KOEO)

Here is a guide to help you check it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

The truck died can hear the fuel pump come on pulled the fuel filter off fuel came out & stopped, bought a pressure tester read 25 psi also can not get spark.

KOEO fuel pressure should be 35-45psi

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Thanks will try & let you know the results

fuel pressure is good timing is on and have a good spark

ok, we need to look at the back pressure in the exhaust for possible restriction. you can get a back pressure gauge and insert it in the o2 sensor port and measure. it should not be over 1 lb

Roy

fuel pressure is good timing is on and have a good spark -But are the injectors pulsing-clogged exhaust will prevent it from starting the engine is not breathing properly.

Timing is dead on-how did you determine this?

No backpressure gauge -disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and see what happens

I have had a new fuel pump installed. The system is a non return system with the fuel pressure regulator in the fuel tank. The truck does not start immediately after being shut off for a few minutes. It starts and runs but the gas mileage has dropped by over twenty percent. Cannot seem to get rail fuel pressure over 50 psi. Specs indicate I need 56 PSI minimum. Does the fuel pressure damper have anything to do with this?

Prior to replacing the fuel pump (required due to pump failure) the engine ran fine with consistent 15 to 17 mpg depending on type of driving. Have been trying everything I can think of or google. Any ideas?

I am finding a lot of conflicting information on this vehicle but the one consistent thing I find is the fuel pressure spec of 30-65 PSI. That is an unusually wide range and normally associated with pulse modulated driver systems but I am not showing that on this vehicle. The data bases are showing this as being a return type system with the regulator on the fuel rail.
Could this be a non-US vehicle or something like that?

The tag in the door frame indicates US manufacture which is consistent with theVIN number starting with one. In my research, I found references to it being a non return system. I believe this is correct as there are three connections to the fuel filter. Two at the back which connect to the pump. I believe these are the supply line and re circulation. Then the one going to the fuel rail. The new pump is an Airtex model E2270S. The shop manual I have gives the fuel pump pressure spec as 64 +/- 8 PSI.

There is a good example of conflict. The factory shop manual that I have (Alldata) states the pressure spec is 30-65 as I stated before. I checked Mitchell and it agrees with you. I can't find any consistent information on this particular truck.
If you have a filter with three lines on it, that generally means it is acting as a regulator. You might try changing that.

I have changed it as well suspecting it was part of the problem. I use the Ford workshop manual I picked up on E-bay about seven years ago.

I have access to the Ford service site and it pretty much confirms everything you said about the system.

The first thing I would do is confirm there is no voltage drop or ground problem in the wiring to the pump. Beyond that, you have to be looking at an issue with the pump, either defective or wrong application or a problem with the regulator.

fuel pressure on 2007 ford ranger

64K on the truck, auto-trans delivery truck for our business. 2.3L 4 cyl. AC. The fuel pressure falls on it's face sometimes. We have been fighting this off and on over 6 months. We have put 3 pumps in it. Fuel filters etc. The pressure measured at the port on the rail is about 65-70psi when the problem shows up it goes down to 15. The system is return-less. Two lines go into one end of the fuel filter, one goes out the other end to the fuel rail. The fuel pump assembly has a regulator on it that is inside the tank. I know BMW's and Porsche's very well...but this POS is really throwing me. Our first pump died because of junk in the tank. It was 100% cleaned out and filters swapped (and cut open to look for goodies). We have done the oblivious.

Photo of the first pump...

I was told the voltage was checked. I will have to check it myself to be sure. Believe it or not, this is the second new pump installed. Due to the problem, I had the first replaced with a second. Problem remained. I picked up the idea somewhere that the pump controls pressure by varying the speed or somehow pulsing the pump. I am wondering where the signal comes from and how to check this. Have you ever run into anything like this? Am I misunderstanding something?

If it is droping that much, are you sure the vent to the tank isn't plugging and not allowing air to enter as the fuel is used? Also, when it drops to 15 psi, have you checked pressure at the fuel filter to see if it is low there too?

This is going to be an interesting one, I can tell.

Just wanted to add that I am appreciating your input regarding my dilemma. I have been working on this problem for about four to five weeks and have checked and changed anything I could find might be the problem. Thanks again for taking the interest.

We have tested for that one... and it's never made a sucking sound when taking the cap off. We did try and run the cap loose to test for that a few months ago, and it just kicked on the check engine light.

No, you are describing Pulse Width Modulation which your truck is not equipped with. That requires a Fuel Pump Driver Module which you do not have.
Checking voltage and voltage drop are two different thing. A voltage drop test reads loss in the circuit.

It will kick the light on (EVAP Large Leak). Did the fuel pressure drop with the cap off? Also, have you ever checked pressure before the filter? One last question. I have one other thought. Are you able to check voltage to the pump when it loses pressure? I wonder if the voltage is dropping and the pump is slowing down. Based on what you have already done, I am assuming you have a fairly good knowledge base for this repair. But I have to ask if you have a good ground for the pump.

just wondering will running the vehicle as it is (rich fuel mix) damage the catalytic converter? or any other components?

I have a p0153 code. when I checked the fuel rail pressure it was 57lbs. Is the fuel pressure regulator the only thing that causes this problem? Please help...

p0153 is oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1

has nothing to do with the fuel pressure regulator.

what i would do is try a new o2 sensor or switch it with the one from bank 1 if it switches to bank 1 then the sensor is bad.

Yes, rich mixture will damage the catalytic converter, but how do you know you have a rich mixture?

The book states(chilton Ford 1991-99 Ranger # 26688) p0153 fuel control system fault. not a o2 senser. My question is, is 57lbs too much at the fuel rail and if it is what would cause the over pressure?

Thought I answered but seems I screwed up. I'm thinking rich mixture due to reduced MPG My understanding is that the injectors make up for the low pressure by opening longer resulting in poor atomization of fuel and incomplete combustion.
Since I don't have black smoke coming out of exhaust or smell fuel, this doesn't seem right does it?

Code p0153 its an oxygen sensor slow response on bank 2 sensor 1
you need to update your book
fuel pressure is about right

No, you can't assume anything like that. Lean fuel mixture would lead to lean misfire and poor mileage also. If your 0/2s aren't setting rich codes, it would be wrong to assume that.

V6 engine two wheel drive automatic 96,000 miles.

Does anyone know what the fuel pressure is supposed to be on my truck? it has a 3.0 liter flex fuel.

I recently purchased a fuel pressure gauge but my neither my Chilton's book nor the auto parts store can answer my question.

guarantee you your o2 sensor is to blame, your fuel pressure is just fine.

Regardless if it has flexfuel, it still maintains the same pressure, between 60 and 65 psi (KOEO).

Let me know if you have other questions.

Joe

Since I don't want to drop the tank again to check the power at the pump, I decided to check the pump pressure capability with a gauge. With everything set normally, I was getting the 50 PSI as Before. To eliminate the return valve as the culprit, I closed off the return valve from the fuel filter, Pressure immediately increased to 80 PSI. This is telling me that the problem is with the return valve. As mentioned previously this is a second new pump with the same results. Do you see anything I might be missing??

No, you seem to be correct about it being the regulator. Kinda unusual though.

Thanks I appreciate you staying with me on this. I agree it seems unusual and it was the reason I didn't do this simple test sooner.

Are you sure you can trust the gauge?

I took my car to my mechanic because it has been having problems when I try to start it, it wont start until I try a few times. The mechanic thought it had to do with the fuel pressure so what I wanted to know was what should be the regular fuel pressure for a ford ranger 2002 3.0 6 cylinder.

60-65 psi Here is a guide to help you get the pressure reading.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers

I think so. The pressure was checked by the people who installed the pump and they said it was 50 PSI They didn't close the return line. I got 45 to 50 in that situation. When I closed the return off it jumped to 80 psi which is the range of the stated pump spec. SO the gauge might be off, but it shows the pressure increase when closing the return.

Yes, it shows the increase but if that gauge was off by as little as 10PSI, that test would translate to no problem at all. That's all I'm saying. If you trust the gauge, then fine, replace the regulator.