1996 Ford Probe wont start

Hi elkco75, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation-

Hook up a noid lite on the injectors harness and see if the injector circuits are pulsing. If not could be a power issue to the injectors or the driver circuit from the computer

Ok, will have to purchase one and give that a shot. are they available in most parts stores?

Yes sir-Orielly's, Autozone and Pep boys

[quote:2b02c7ba39="rasmataz"]Yes sir-Orielly's, Autozone and Pep boys[/quote:2b02c7ba39]
OK, my friendly local auto zone guys let me borrow a noid lite out of their fuel inj test kit and it flashes while engine is being cranked over. I guess that is good. what now? I am going to try the fuel pump. could it not have enough pressure to open injectors. Engine that was in chassis ran before change but who knows.

Check and test the injector's solenoid resistances if okay proceed to check the fuel pump pressure

[quote:cff9edca4d="rasmataz"]Check and test the injector's solenoid resistances if okay proceed to check the fuel pump pressure[/quote:cff9edca4d]
is solinoid located on engine fuse panel on left strut tower? not sure how i would do that but can look at the book and see if it helps. any advice as to how would help here. I do have ohm meter. I tried another fuel pump (after noid light test) that was in a parts car that did run until I parts it out. it only had about 26 pounds. the one that was in car (and is back in) pushes about 42-45 psi.

Your fuel pressure is right on the money -okay disconnect the fuel injector harness and check injector resistances should read 11-19 ohms if not it belongs in the trash can

[quote:4338a5983b="rasmataz"]Your fuel pressure is right on the money -okay disconnect the fuel injector harness and check injector resistances should read 11-19 ohms if not it belongs in the trash can[/quote:4338a5983b]
just came back from over garage. my ohm meter is digital and seems to jump all over while checking the realy. I plugged another relay off my parts car that did run. no change. do I try to get a reading right at injectors? man, this stuff is all brand new. remember it is a complete crate engine. I really appreciate your help.

do I try to get a reading right at injectors?

Disconnect the harness from the injector then zero your meter-check it for the correct resistances I gave earlier.

ok, they were all between 14.8 and 16.4 ohms. right on the money. Have spark, fuel pressure, blinking noid light test ok. timing light is in the timing scale on crank but is not running so only getting timing ck when rolling engine with starter and timeing light. plugs look dry as a bone. only time i got engine to fire was by squirting fuel into the throttle body. I am SOOOOO stumped here.

Verify the valve and ignition timing-put engine no.1 piston on its compression stroke/TDC, line crank to 0/TDC on the scale and verify that the rotor is pointing to the no.1 cap tower

ok, took out #1 put thumb down in plug hole while I brought piston to TDC. felt the compression so it wa not end of ex stroke. Rotor was right on #1 in cap. However, plug was wet this time, pulled # 2 and it looked wet too. smelled of fuel. first I noticed this. anyway, ign timing is in ball park.

Everything on the fuel injectors, fuel pressure and spark is on track here-Somerthing is telling me here about 180deg off-You will feel a little compression when piston goes up on exhaust stroke-

The way I verify if the no.1 piston is at its compression stroke/TDC is to pull the valcover and check if the the valves are closed-You begining to stomp me here-

ok, i think that it was wihsful thinking that plugs were wet.... have puled them a few times after trying to start and they are dry. I put a few drops of gas in #1 cyl and it fired immediatly. could any of relays on throttle body cause this? I have another engine laying there. everything except a couple relays for egr (on back of engine by starter) is brand new from ford. fuel rail, injectors, throttle body.... mass air flow is off old engine but it ran.

stumping you? I am no expert on fuel injection but have been around cars for a long time. built many race cars over years. was a mechanic for about 20, this is drivin me nuts. if it was out 180 it would at least fire or back fire you would think. when I was able to get a fine mist of fuel in through throttle body it sounded like timing was close. I even took hold down bolt out of dist to see if I could get a burp out of it. pulling the cam cover off is pretty easy and I can check to mak sure TDC is on comnpression stroke and dist is on #1.... man for the days of points lol (just kidding). I chased this thing for 2 weeks before i contacted 2car pros so don't feel bad. just call me stumped for now.... will get back and Thanks so much. gonaa change my name to Stumped!! :)

ok, i think that it was wihsful thinking that plugs were wet.... have puled them a few times after trying to start and they are dry

Check and test the F/P Inj 30amp fuse and the PCM power relay if both okay -Have the computer injector ground drivers checked out

[quote:34e8096055="rasmataz"]ok, i think that it was wihsful thinking that plugs were wet.... have puled them a few times after trying to start and they are dry

Check and test the F/P Inj 30amp fuse and the PCM power relay if both okay -Have the computer injector ground drivers checked out[/quote:34e8096055]

ok, will check fuse and relay again.... this might sound dumb but how do i check the computer injector ground drivers? wiring diagram shows wires to and from PCM. not much additional info. I will check it out.

Dunno what's giving the computer an input signal normally the cam sensor is used for this purpose but you don't have one to synchronize the injectors it has a crankshaft sensor maybe this one We can be both Stumpers-lol

The one that concerns me is the noid lite is flashing,that tells me the injectors driver circuit is functioning and there's no fuel making it to the cylinders and also your fuel pressure is within specs

I scracted my head over cam sensor, crank sensor and what fires injectors and I still don't know and cant tell from wiring. The old chasis (racecar) was a 93-94. the new one is a 11-95 production. crate engine is a 97. All three have different distributors. I though maybe the 97 distributor that came with crate engine had different way of fireing injectors so I put dist in engine that was in the early 96 (11-95) production chasis in new engine and had same issue. Darn, I may have to by a complete harness s and PCM for a 97. Ah for the old days! If I find anything I will let you know. Is there any after market set up that would fire injectors? I have a lot invested here and can't get it to run.... it so sad that I am laughing.... sort of :(

well razmatz, you aren't going to believe this and it makes no sense. I removed the brand new fuel rail and injectors off the crate motor and put the one off the old motor on. It fired right up. :) DO NOT ASK me why. could newer injectors later engine requier higher voltage? well, all I have to do now is get the timing set. it runs, not sure what difference is. appreciate your thoughts on this. I am going to try the new pressure regulator on the old rail injector system but i doubt that will be it.
Thanks for all your advice, raz.
Dan

You are very welcome Sir and TY for the donation I learn something from this- Good Luck and God bless

Have done some more checking in case you ever run into similar situation. New style (97) distributor also runs the engine. Tore new fuel rail apart and it was gummed up. I believe that the injectors were frozen and the solinoid didn't have enough power to open them. These factory new engines have been warehoused for quite a few years and there must have been some fuel that remained in the fuel rail after factory test firing.
Any way, I am glad that this mess is behind me. thought I was losing my mind for a while. GEEESH!
Thanks again.

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