Removing alternator

If its the dohc zetec engine thats what you need to do along with pull the engine forward to get it out if its the sohc its a different process

Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Here is a guide that gives you an idea of what you are in for when doing the job.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

Test the alternator once you are done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Here are some diagrams below that shows what replacing the alternator is like on your car

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

Electrical problem
2001 Ford Focus 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 70,000 miles

Hello,

We've recently encounted a very sporadic electrical problem with our 2001 Ford Focus SE (four door). The problem has happened twice on the freeway (going 65 mph) and once at a stop light (idling). Without warning, the dash gauges zero out and the front head lights and radio go out. As dash leds go, the cruise control dash light illuminates on/off during the problem timeframe. After two or three minutes (maybe as long as five minutes), they all come back on in unison.

There does not appear to be any mechanical failure when this dilemma is happeing. The motor, power steering, etc. appear to continue functioning normally (though I am not sure about brake lights) or other subtle aspects of the car.

So far, we have had the following done by a local certified mechanic to address the issue:

1. Replaced the alternator (found charging system faulty)
2. Replaced the ignition switch (no hard evidence..just a recommendation).
3. Charging system check.
4. Full electrical inspection.

The problem however, still persists. The fact the issue is not reproducible at will is the main challenge the mechanic faces. The car is back at the shop as I write this, but I wanted to put this out there to see if anyone has any ideas?

Regards

Hi, Ford had a recall on the battery cables for that car, check your cables for burned marks near the battery terminals and get back to me.

Hi danabr2002,

The problem don't seem to be caused by the charging system.

I would say it is a bad connection somewhere causing power supply to be interupted.

I would suggest checking junction and fuse boxes connectors for overheating, looseness etc.

Does the headlights goes off no matter in low or high beam mode?
Is your vehicle equipped with DRL?
Are the speedometer and tachometer working?
All gauges stopped working or any still working normally when it happened?

Can you pleaase let me know the exact vehicle model?

Hi danabr2002,

DRL = Day Running Light. Your description means yes.

Check the battery cable as advised by Ken.

Electrical problem
2003 Ford Focus 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 97,000 miles

Need to replace the alternator; 2003 Focus with ztec engine. It is wedged in there between the engine and firewall. This looks to be a pain; am I right? Is there a trick/shortcut to it? I'm half afraid to go buy a manual....disassemble the right wheelwell assembly, pull the transmission, etc. I'm doing this tomorrow and need the car the next day. Thanks

HT

[quote:a8f4be1b92="2CarPro Ken"]Hi, Ford had a recall on the battery cables for that car, check your cables for burned marks near the battery terminals and get back to me.[/quote:a8f4be1b92]

Ken, I really apologize for my ignorance. My DMV papers incorrectly list this car as 2001; in fact, it's 2002 Ford Focus SE (4 Door).

Does this change anything?

Thanks.

Got it done with no help from this forum. The trick is to take out the 3 big bolts that hold the engine mount to the right wheelwell, jack up the engine a little and push it forward enough to get the alternator out. I learned a trick all by myself !

[quote:83fd96c0e3="KHLow2008"]Hi danabr2002,

DRL = Day Running Light. Your description means yes.

Check the battery cable as advised by Ken.[/quote:83fd96c0e3]

Hi, I really apologize for my ignorance. My DMV papers incorrectly list this car as 2001; in fact, it's 2002 Ford Focus SE (4 Door).

Yes--DRL enabled when turning on the motor.

Thanks.

Hi,

Just to follow up on this.

Did you check the cable and was there any fault found? Have you solved the problem yet?

sometimes I have seen a battery short out internaly, If all the electrical shorts out it the battery could cause it.

I need my alternator replaced on a 2004 Focus SE 2.0L. Is there a place with quality work at affordable prices in Round Rock to have this done? Replaced my battery. 1 month later I have to jump the Battery. Engine light comes on for a few days then goes out for a day. Does this continually. Took it to a shop because I thought the alternator might only be partially working as the engine idle seems to be unsteady at times. They said my battery would not hold a charge so the could not test it properly. I went to autozone with the shop printout. they tested the battery as good but replaced it anyhow as it was under warranty. went back to the shop the next day, they said the battery had already gotten weak so i needed a new alternator. They want to charge me over 500 dollars to replace it.

I do not have a multimeter and that was not the answer to my question, but thank you for replying

Alright i thought thats why you gave all the details because you were unsure of the diagnoses.What is your zip code and i will help you out with a fair estimate to repair it.

2003 Ford Focus
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how to replace an alternator in the zx5

GENERATORS & REGULATORS -2003 Ford Focus ZX5
Page 1 of 1
Removal and Installation (2.0L Zetec-E)
1.Disconnect negative battery cable. Protect generator with lint-free material to prevent contamination. Remove the fuel pressure sensor. Remove accessory drive belt. 2.Remove bolt securing coolant overflow bottle. Remove coolant overflow bottle, and position aside. Remove power steering reservoir, and engine wiring harness bracket, and position aside. Disconnect ground strap near right front shock tower. See Fig. 3 . 3.Remove evaporative emission canister purge valve, and position aside. See Fig. 4 . Disconnect the cylinder head temperature sensor electrical connector. See Fig. 5 . Disconnect the ground cable on engine lifting eye and remove the engine lifting eye. 4.Remove ground cable on frame rail at right side of engine. See Fig. 6 . Mark the position of the engine mounting. Remove front engine mounting retaining bolts. See Fig. 7 . Slide engine towards front of vehicle and reinstall one of the retaining bolts into rear bolt hole to prevent engine moving backwards. See Fig. 8 . 5.Disconnect electrical connectors from generator. Lower retaining bolt must be fully disengaged from the bracket although it is not possible to remove the bolt at this stage. Unscrew 2 generator mounting bolts and remove generator from vehicle. 6.To aid in installation, slide back the generator locking sleeves. See Fig. 9 . To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten fasteners to specification.


2007 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.

Changed alternator and got a bad smell like burn smell and car lights and stereo turn off and the car won't turn over anymore. The same thing happen when we changed it the first time smelled like plastic burning smell and the car was dead.

Check if the battery wire to the alternator is shorted direct to ground

Electrical problem
2002 Ford Focus Two Wheel Drive Automatic 120000 miles

im working on a 2002 ford focus and im wondering does the pcm control the regulater in the alt ive changed out the batt and alt twice but it still is charging way too high 15v what do i need to check next

i've posted charging system's wiring schematic below, let me know if you need further assistance..

2005 Ford Focus
----------------------------------------------------------------
How do you remove the alternator?

1.Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to BATTERY, MOUNTING AND CABLES .

2.Remove the upper generator nut.

3.Remove the generator heat shield top nut.

4.Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to JACKING AND LIFTING .

5.Remove the screws and the accessory drive splash shield.

6.Release the accessory drive belt tension and remove the belt from the generator pulley.

7.Remove the generator heat shield lower nut and the heat shield.

8.Release the two air intake tube retainers and remove the air intake tube assembly.

Engine Mechanical problem
2001 Ford Focus 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

I can't get the old alternator out. Do I have to take the motor out to be able to replace the alternator?

Try these procedures below, also disconnect the right motor mount at the right strut tower to allow extra motor movement, then pull the engine forward enough to allow room to remove the alternator from the top.

51 plate focus 1.8 ztec, battery light has just started flicking on and off when in idle, only does for the first 10 min of a trip then is fine, would I be right to think the alternator? I have had the car for 6 months and havent changed the battery or any other parts.
If it is the alternator how long do you think this would last before replacing?

The symptom suggests a defective diode inside the generator. In the case of my minivan, I've been driving it like that for over a year. To determine if that is the problem, a load test must be performed with a tester that can measure "ripple". With one bad diode, the ripple will be very high and the most output current you'll be able to get will be very near one third of the unit's rated capacity. A 90 amp generator will only produce 30 amps which is barely enough to run the fuel pump, injectors, ignition system, lights, and radio with little left over to recharge the battery.

If you measure battery voltage while the engine is running, you'll find it's a little on the high side. Normal is between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. The voltage regulator sees the dip in voltage during the period when the defective diode should be passing some output current. It responds to that dip by increasing generator output voltage to try to get the current back up, then it doesn't cut back quick enough when the good diodes are conducting. That's why you might find from 15.0 to 15.5 volts at the battery even though the output current is low.

Had work done last week. Cracked thermostat housing, thermostat, plugs, wires, oil change. The car was running great but still needed an alternator which was on order. Drove it all weekend smooth as silk. Took the car in for the alternator and now the car barely runs. Very rough. Shop said maybe tooth missing on timing chain or other things. Any way to figure out why changing an alternator caused all this?

Check for codes first, my concern is that they may have flashed the electrical system and done some damage, there should be no reason for this issue if the battery was disconnected and the alternator fitted as per normal operations.